Do you install these in the fog light opening on the ST?
Originally Posted by napper39
this is what i found on ebay under turbo fans,some diferent ones they work of the wind turning them so they wont help when stoped in less you are heded in to the wind.
RT and Happy. I have very minimal heat issues on my 2010 RT. I expect some heat because it has to go somewhere, just as my motorcycles do. They produce heat and you feel it when not moving down the highway. From all the complaints it must be an issue with the RS and ST's. I just wonder that at slow speed such as 10 mph or below, could the cooling fan on the radiator be reversed and blow back through the front to at least take the hot air away from the feet? At speed the fan doesn't run anyway. Might be worth a try.
I have a 2011 RT LTD and hubby has a 2012. We just made a 9611 mile trip from Oregon to PA, Canada, etc. and the heat at times was unbearable. My right leg actually got burned on the inside from the engine heat. There has to be a fix somewhere. I was wondering if just putting more 'heat wrap sheeting' on the inside of the "Tupperware" would do any thing, but I am just a rider, not an engineer.
What kind of Turbo fans and where to I get them? Also, not a wrench - how do you "vent to the cylinder head?
Here's a fan that might do the trick... It is a 12v 3" fan normally used to ventilate the bilge area on a boat and built for rough use.
It pushes air at about 145cfm and draws less than 3 amps. You can buy these at many places less than $20 including Amazon, eBay, West Marine, etc.
I am currently experimenting with one of these on my RT, using a manual switch.
That's a trait that I can appreciate...
But her avatar shows her in jeans; I find it really tough to imagine that amount of heat that it'd take to burn a leg through even marginal denim...
Here's a fan that might do the trick... It is a 12v 3" fan normally used to ventilate the bilge area on a boat and built for rough use.
It pushes air at about 145cfm and draws less than 3 amps. You can buy these at many places less than $20 including Amazon, eBay, West Marine, etc.
I am currently experimenting with one of these on my RT, using a manual switch.
Here's a fan that might do the trick... It is a 12v 3" fan normally used to ventilate the bilge area on a boat and built for rough use.
It pushes air at about 145cfm and draws less than 3 amps. You can buy these at many places less than $20 including Amazon, eBay, West Marine, etc.
I am currently experimenting with one of these on my RT, using a manual switch.
Please let us know how this turns out. Maybe I'm thick headed, but I think this may be part of the solution...
if or when BRP comes up with a permanent solution.
The 2014's may clue us all in on airflow changes through the Tupperware.
Does your RT have the fog lights or not? Do you use that opening to get under the Tupperware? Where will the entry and exit point be?
Not sure where you can put this that'll do something...
On a boat bilge, do they blow in or out?
A boat bilge is fairly enclosed... The Spyder is relatively open. Where would you put this?
curious...
Lots of room to mount it when the stock airbox is gone.... It sits just behind the rh Foglight and pulls cooler air from inside the fender to displace hot air around the top of the engine.
Below is a pic of the fan installed on my RT. Understand, I did this solely to relieve the level of heat around the KewlMetal Intake since my oem Airbox was replaced... It may or may not affect any heat levels for the rider. I am using a manual switch which I only turn on when I get trapped in traffic or need to sit idling for a while.
And, yes, it is making a real improvement as measured by a VDO Temp gauge on my dash. This blower fan really pushes some air in a small space...
Lots of room to mount it when the stock airbox is gone.... It sits just behind the rh Foglight and pulls cooler air from inside the fender.
Below is a pic of the fan installed on my RT. Understand, I did this solely to relieve the level of heat around the KewlMetal Intake since my oem Airbox was replaced... It may or may not affect any heat levels for the rider. I am using a manual switch which I only turn on when I get trapped in traffic or need to sit idling for a while.
And, yes, it is making a real improvement as measured by a VDO Temp gauge on my dash. This blower fan really pushes some air... If anyone wants more details send me a PM. RT-bilge-fan.jpgIntake-temp.jpg
This sounds like some really good news!. From other posts I know people have wanted to do this and see what the results are. Keep us posted as you get more time on this mod. Can you record some before and after temp readings? Maybe this will be a catalyst for other people to try it. Hello BRP? Does the hot air exit out the bottom?
This sounds like some really good news!. From other posts I know people have wanted to do this and see what the results are. Keep us posted as you get more time on this mod. Can you record some before and after temp readings? Maybe this will be a catalyst for other people to try it. Hello BRP? Does the hot air exit out the bottom?
No, the blower is picking up cooler air inside the fender, near the RT scoop, and pushing it upward across the engine.... the heat has to be mostly flowing out the top vents in the tupperwear.
My heat level around the seat/glovebox area dropped significantly when I originally did the KewlMetal Intake conversion. I have not noticed much change while riding using the blower but may get a better test this weekend going to Birmingham.
No, the blower is picking up cooler air inside the fender, near the RT scoop, and pushing it upward across the engine.... the heat has to be mostly flowing out the top vents in the tupperwear.
My heat level around the seat/glovebox area dropped significantly when I originally did the KewlMetal Intake conversion. I have not noticed much change while riding using the blower but may get a better test this weekend going to Birmingham.
Is it more a removal of the air box or the air flow provided by the fan? Again, this will be intriguing to follow. Keep us posted.
Finding it difficult to understand why we should have to come up with designs or remedies to problems that shoud be resolved and payed for by the manufacture(BRP). After paying the amount of $$$ for the purchase of a new Spyder, and then having to pay more because there is a defect is "STUPIT". You would never think of having to do something like that with a brand new car, or other product. The only items a consumer should have to pay for are accessories, enhanced performance and the normal routing service
A-Men to that brother. I have been saying this from day one, but I believe you have said it better! When will we wise up and join together on this?
Finding it difficult to understand why we should have to come up with designs or remedies to problems that shoud be resolved and payed for by the manufacture(BRP). After paying the amount of $$$ for the purchase of a new Spyder, and then having to pay more because there is a defect is "STUPIT". You would never think of having to do something like that with a brand new car, or other product. The only items a consumer should have to pay for are accessories, enhanced performance and the normal routing service
I agree 100%.....we are not redesigning the ST....that is a job for BRP
I am waiting for the arrival of the Attwood 3000 fan. It pumps 90 CFM through a 3" duct and I plan to position it wherever I an find room, with a duct running down under the Spyder. Ideally, it will create a vacuum under the tupperware, and suck fresh air from all the places heat is now coming out, under the seat, as well as any other small openings, and vent it out the bottom. I plan to install a switch so I can turn it on when stopped or stuck in stop and go traffic, and turn it off while moving. Hopefully, this should make the ryde more comfortable . . . although, yesterday, on a chilly day, that warm seat actually felt good!
I am waiting for the arrival of the Attwood 3000 fan. It pumps 90 CFM through a 3" duct and I plan to position it wherever I an find room, with a duct running down under the Spyder. Ideally, it will create a vacuum under the tupperware, and suck fresh air from all the places heat is now coming out, under the seat, as well as any other small openings, and vent it out the bottom. I plan to install a switch so I can turn it on when stopped or stuck in stop and go traffic, and turn it off while moving. Hopefully, this should make the ryde more comfortable . . . although, yesterday, on a chilly day, that warm seat actually felt good!
Just remember that heat travels upward. It takes a lot of air to move it in the opposite direction.
90 CFM is a fair amount of air . . . and ducting it up would be problematic . . . as that is where I'd be sitting!
My thought is that the best path would be to take strong measures to block the flow from around the seat and glove box, the push the air upwards to exhaust through the vents in the upper body panel. Those vents are not very effective because the deflectors block the air from moving over them, so there is no venturi effect and they depend solely on convection. Active air movement from a fan or fans would help them perform as intended. JMHO
Very interested in how this works out for you. I proposed the use of bilge fans for this purpose several years ago.
Once I get the fan and materials, I'll start experimenting . . . I am enthusiastic that this is solvable . . . If this solution works, (and it appears it is working for the poster who is using the fog light openings to bring in air) the next step would be a better fan, designed for constant use, with a temperature controlled switch.
RT and Happy. I have very minimal heat issues on my 2010 RT. I expect some heat because it has to go somewhere, just as my motorcycles do. They produce heat and you feel it when not moving down the highway. From all the complaints it must be an issue with the RS and ST's. I just wonder that at slow speed such as 10 mph or below, could the cooling fan on the radiator be reversed and blow back through the front to at least take the hot air away from the feet? At speed the fan doesn't run anyway. Might be worth a try.
Once I get the fan and materials, I'll start experimenting . . . I am enthusiastic that this is solvable . . . If this solution works, (and it appears it is working for the poster who is using the fog light openings to bring in air) the next step would be a better fan, designed for constant use, with a temperature controlled switch.
Good Luck; please let us know what you end up building!