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I Done went and Diddit
Well I finally managed to find a Spyder that fit my requirement of being affordable and under or eligible for a warranty, and my wife's requirement of an accceptable "cuteness" factor! I had actually found a private seller with a 2012 RS- SE5, but while I was waiting for him to transfer the warranty to his name from the original owner, I came across the exact same year, model & color sitting in an AutoMax dealership in Ocala for considerably less.
In the end, we managed an OTD price of $13300 for a 2012 SE5 with 1380 miles and once we got there, we found that it had some LED effects that my wife crooned over - bonus! Can-Am 1.jpgCan-Am 2 (800x580).jpg
In the meantime, I've started going over it thoroughly and discovered some things:
1) The oil level seemed alarmingly low (engine cold). I'll check it again tomorrow when I can warm it up, but the oil level isn't even reaching the dipstick. I can see that there is oil in the reservoir, so I'm not too alarmed, but I'm concerned enough to pick up a quart of synthetic API-SL and check it IAW the manual. Coolant reservoir also seemed low, so I added 2-3 splashes of 50/50 and 1-2 splashes of Wetter. It's really hard to see the "Full" level on that bottle - how hard would it have been to put a stick on the lid?
2) The guy who wired the LED lights is fortunate that he didn't cause an electrical fire on this thing. After seeing that the wires on the light switch were not only not soldered, but had electrical tape holding them on to the posts, I decided to dismantle the panels and trace the wiring back, right to the fuse box where he had wallowed out a hole in the side and ran the hot wire around one side of a 5a accessory fuse. The ground was wrapped around the base of a chassis bolt and only hanging on by two strands.
I decided to call it a night at that point. I'll show my wife the rats nest tomorrow. She will be upset, but I'll offer to rewire the whole enchilada so she can pick and choose where the light effects go. Now I need to find a switching fuse/terminal block. Anyone have some decent sources?
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you have to check the oil on Spyders with the engine at operating temperature. If you check it cold you will not see any oil on the dip stick.
Have fun and enjoy your new machine.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Imnotlost
Well I finally managed to find a Spyder that fit my requirement of being affordable and under or eligible for a warranty, and my wife's requirement of an accceptable "cuteness" factor! I had actually found a private seller with a 2012 RS- SE5, but while I was waiting for him to transfer the warranty to his name from the original owner, I came across the exact same year, model & color sitting in an AutoMax dealership in Ocala for considerably less.
In the end, we managed an OTD price of $13300 for a 2012 SE5 with 1380 miles and once we got there, we found that it had some LED effects that my wife crooned over - bonus! Can-Am 1.jpgCan-Am 2 (800x580).jpg
In the meantime, I've started going over it thoroughly and discovered some things:
1) The oil level seemed alarmingly low (engine cold). I'll check it again tomorrow when I can warm it up, but the oil level isn't even reaching the dipstick. I can see that there is oil in the reservoir, so I'm not too alarmed, but I'm concerned enough to pick up a quart of synthetic API-SL and check it IAW the manual. Coolant reservoir also seemed low, so I added 2-3 splashes of 50/50 and 1-2 splashes of Wetter. It's really hard to see the "Full" level on that bottle - how hard would it have been to put a stick on the lid?
2) The guy who wired the LED lights is fortunate that he didn't cause an electrical fire on this thing. After seeing that the wires on the light switch were not only not soldered, but had electrical tape holding them on to the posts, I decided to dismantle the panels and trace the wiring back, right to the fuse box where he had wallowed out a hole in the side and ran the hot wire around one side of a 5a accessory fuse. The ground was wrapped around the base of a chassis bolt and only hanging on by two strands.
I decided to call it a night at that point. I'll show my wife the rats nest tomorrow. She will be upset, but I'll offer to rewire the whole enchilada so she can pick and choose where the light effects go. Now I need to find a switching fuse/terminal block. Anyone have some decent sources?
The PC-8 from Eastern Beaver is a good choice if your looking for a good quality fuse box. You can wire either switched or un-switched circuits using this fuse box.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wi...PC-8/pc-8.html
Last edited by vtrider; 05-05-2013 at 03:03 AM.
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Have to agree..!!
with checking oil. I usually check coming in from a ryde top off if needed and be ready for the next ryde. Your fuse box under the frunk lid has both switched and un-switched fuses available. But many add a third fuse box. But the important part is welcome to the roadster world and the answer place that goes with it. Congrats..!!
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Imnotlost
Well I finally managed to find a Spyder that fit my requirement of being affordable and under or eligible for a warranty, and my wife's requirement of an accceptable "cuteness" factor! I had actually found a private seller with a 2012 RS- SE5, but while I was waiting for him to transfer the warranty to his name from the original owner, I came across the exact same year, model & color sitting in an AutoMax dealership in Ocala for considerably less.
In the end, we managed an OTD price of $13300 for a 2012 SE5 with 1380 miles and once we got there, we found that it had some LED effects that my wife crooned over - bonus! Can-Am 1.jpgCan-Am 2 (800x580).jpg
In the meantime, I've started going over it thoroughly and discovered some things:
1) The oil level seemed alarmingly low (engine cold). I'll check it again tomorrow when I can warm it up, but the oil level isn't even reaching the dipstick. I can see that there is oil in the reservoir, so I'm not too alarmed, but I'm concerned enough to pick up a quart of synthetic API-SL and check it IAW the manual. Coolant reservoir also seemed low, so I added 2-3 splashes of 50/50 and 1-2 splashes of Wetter. It's really hard to see the "Full" level on that bottle - how hard would it have been to put a stick on the lid?
2) The guy who wired the LED lights is fortunate that he didn't cause an electrical fire on this thing. After seeing that the wires on the light switch were not only not soldered, but had electrical tape holding them on to the posts, I decided to dismantle the panels and trace the wiring back, right to the fuse box where he had wallowed out a hole in the side and ran the hot wire around one side of a 5a accessory fuse. The ground was wrapped around the base of a chassis bolt and only hanging on by two strands.
I decided to call it a night at that point. I'll show my wife the rats nest tomorrow. She will be upset, but I'll offer to rewire the whole enchilada so she can pick and choose where the light effects go. Now I need to find a switching fuse/terminal block. Anyone have some decent sources?
You might want to give Reggy at TRIC LED a call. He has all of the electrical items that you need to do a safe installation. Check out his banner on the home page.
"Stupid is as Stupid does"
Don't Drink and Drive or Ryde!
Each Day is a Gift
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'Read the Owners Manual
on the bike.
Sounds like you need to get out the owners manual and memorize some of it. The Spyder is a great vehicle, but has a lot of unique things you'll need to do - the oil check being #1
Ask away on any Q you may have, the responders are pretty sharp and seldom lead anyone down the wrong road.
Tuck
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Last edited by Imnotlost; 05-05-2013 at 08:56 AM.
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Last edited by Imnotlost; 05-05-2013 at 09:09 AM.
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Very Active Member
F3L SE5 Black -- F4 windshield w/wings, Reggie LED headlights, driving lights & Cyclops LED, Ultimate seat, Fox shocks, BajaRon swaybar, Lamont highway centerline pegs & 3rd peg, Lamont belt tensioner, K&N air filter, Baker air wings & cup holder, CanAm hitch.
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Thank you for that info! I saw a link regarding that vendor by a gent who had installed a bunch of stuff. The thing I like about his "fuze" block is that it provides switched and un-switched and also provides bleed-back diodes. A bit pricey, but with the extra features it may be well worth the extra cabbage in the end.
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Many thanks to everyone for all the warm welcomes AND information. I will definitely read the entire owners manual, now that I see there really are some unique procedures.
I must say, although this RS will need some refinements to make it comfortable for my wife (risers, grip puppies & adjustable windshield), this Spyder really is a neat machine. It is even MORE hi-tech than I thought it was, which really does help explain the high MSRP price-point. It has an amazing amount of power and super-responsive steering... so much so, I'm going to insist that my wife does not ride this in traffic until she has spent considerable time in a large parking lot. I need to know that she is comfortable with and can control the steering, and can flex that right foot quickly enough to provide emergency braking before she has to contend with Jacksonville drivers!
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Not only must the Spyder oil be checked at full operating temperature (not just the water temperatur raising on the gauge), the dipstick needs to be screwed in all the wal to read properly. That will show a falsely low level, too.
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Welcome and congrats.
You may find reading this worth your time as well.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...o%27s+dont%27s
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This is a must read for you and your wife!!!! Just trying to help!! kubie http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...o%27s+don%27ts
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