While dealers should-- natch, MUST-- check the tire PSI during PDI... for the love of everything holy people, it's also clearly the RIDER'S responsibility to check the tire pressure!
Anyway, I'll echo Scotty-- on the 2010 RS I've had great luck with 18 psi up front, gives me great handling (albeit a bit bumpier than most-- I can deal with the bumps, I refuse to deal with a lack of precision).
What works for me on my ST-S is 18 lbs. front, and 30 lbs. rear. At 65 on the hwy I can take my hands off the handlebar and it tracks straight and true.
When I went to the dealer for 600mile check I ask them to make sure the checked and left the tires at specs from manual. Which I went slight over at
Front:17
Rear: 29
Below is the crop of my bill and the comments of the tire portion and just adds to my confusion on the subject. Mind you I am not having or notice any steering problems.
WTH?
It's been raining I have not ride it since I returned from the dealer but tomorrow I will check what the pressures are.
When I went to the dealer for 600mile check I ask them to make sure the checked and left the tires at specs from manual. Which I went slight over at
Front:17
Rear: 29
Below is the crop of my bill and the comments of the tire portion and just adds to my confusion on the subject. Mind you I am not having or notice any steering problems.
WTH?
It's been raining I have not ride it since I returned from the dealer but tomorrow I will check what the pressures are.
Are the new tires' sidewalls marked with a minimum pressure like the earlier (14") tires were? If so, I would not go below that.
I don't have darting, handling is good, but not as great as expected from the new design. Checked and have 13 psi in front. As soon as the the ******* snow melts will try 17 psi! Funny thing is I could always tell on my GS when the tires needed air and on the ST I had no idea they were low. Can't wait to try higher pressure, expect it to rock...
Are the new tires' sidewalls marked with a minimum pressure like the earlier (14") tires were? If so, I would not go below that.
Yes they are marked 15min to 30max. So I dont know what the deal is with the dealer and pressure of 12psi. I just DL the 2012 RS manual to compare and cold pressure there is 13Min and 17max. ST manual states 15psi +/- 2 psi. Basically the same.
I understand we all have different take on it and what feels best Im just confused why the dealer is so way off. I wondered if dealer has RS specs in mind at first and not looking up new specs for the ST but its basically the same. Anyway I learned a lesson as stated by others check it myself as part of T-CLOS not gonna trust the dealer all out nor do I feel I need to educate them.
My wife and I have been shopping for an ST and there is currently a "stop sell" order from Can Am. The RideNow dealer in surprise AZ showed me the paper work from Can Am. There is a problem with the ball joints on some 2013 RT, ST, RS. Can Am has started shipping the new parts to dealers a few days ago and they will fix as the parts come in.
I am guessing the problem is on the way to being solved. Each dealer is supposed to be shipped a supply of replacement ball joints and to make the required fixes. How long it takes for all that to happen, will determine when you can make the purchase at your dealer.
The upside: 2013's coming out the door from the dealer should be good to go.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
That's interesting. we put a deposit on one but they have to wait for the ball joint fix/parts. No idea how long but they will bump it to the top of the list.
Your dealer should be contacting you if you're on the list.
Thanks Lamonster, I went ahead and called the dealer and ran my VIN and yes Im due for the fix. They are waiting for BRP to ship them the replacement parts and then they will contact me, so cool now I know for sure. Im not having any issues I can tell hope it stays that way after the fix.
Bob I have to agree with you about this being a safety issue. I think that unless you have one of these defective bikes you really can't get the full picture. Riding on a two lane road with a bike that has a mind of its own is scarier than he'll. All it is going to take, and hopefully this won't happen, is one Spyder rider to get injured or killed with this problem. Then you will see a whole new attitude towards this fix. BRP needs to get on these dealers to step up and be more proactive with their product. I hope the dealers step up and take care of these issues before someone eats seriously injured. I love my Spyder and will not get rid of it but it is the principle of the matter that irks me.
I won't argue the point that its a safety issue but I don't see how BRP can do anything more than they have. The dealers are independent and they can follow BRP's recommendation or not. I can't understand a dealer risking selling a Spyder that may have an issue but as reported here some have.
I agree Lamonster, BRP needs to look at some of dealers and put a fire under them to keep their products in stores. My dealer has done everything I have asked of them but my problem is they should be the one calling me and saying we are going to come and get your bike rather than me calling me to et them know there is a problem. Hopefully all will end well for all those with issues. There is always a risk when buying anything new or improved and Spyders are no different. These issues will pass and everyone will get through it. Just doesn't help the frustration of the moment. Hopefully mine will be 100% this weekend and then off to crawfish boil next weekend in Louisiana.
I will be going in for my first service next Friday. Thanks for your postings about alignment and air pressure. I transitioned from a two wheeled bike and I suspect some of the steering issues I have had were to do with the habit of two wheeler riders slightly weaving back and forth to balance the bike. Also, you can be sloppier with your steering and sort of wander around the lane. You can't do that with the Spyder, since it is like a small car, in a way. The steering is very responsive, and I wish it were toned down a little. I have learned that uneven road surfaces cause it to move a little one way or the other, and when there is a low or uneven area where the rear tire tracks, that can cause it to weave a bit, too. I try not to immediately correct it and it usually hits another uneven spot and weaves back a little the other way. It is very easy to over control it. I guess the answer is "less is more", when it comes to steering the Spyder.
I also have steering problems with my 2013 RT Limited. Detected it on the drive home from the dealer. It is back at the dealer waiting for a solution from BRP. An aligment was done and did not help. So now it being held hostage at the dealer, BRP told my dealer not to release it till it is fixed. The problem starts at speeds above 50mph, varies with the road conditons. Hoping for a quick solution.
Also make certain that your RTL is NOT subject to the ball joint recall.
I just had my ST-S break-in service two days ago. While I was there, the Service Manager told me that I should call him in three weeks because there is a re-call for the lower ball joints and replacement ball joints are in the pipeline to the dealers now. They are said to make a big improvement in the steering. It is not a case of worrying about mechanical failure, so much as a design improvement to improve the handling. He made it sound like it was a big improvement in handling.
It will make a big difference in how smooth the steering performs.
The old ball joint can make the steering delay and when you apply more intup it make you oversteer slightly.
I picked up my ST March 16th...flew to Branson, MO PitBull Powersports picked me up...about 4 hours later I was off...south to Arkansas to ride around for 6oo miles...back to PitBull for oil change etc....before PitBull let me ride off...he had already changed to ball joints and alignment and installed Elka's...my ST and My dealer is perfect