I have 2011 RT with 15k miles, have noticed recently an antifreeze leak under the body of the bic, it collects in the plastic pan under the engine. I have looked at the tank and rad and those seem ok. I have added fluid as it is going down some in the tank. I can't detect a leak when driving the bic. After I park it in the garage and come back to it cold there is a small puddle of antifreeze under the bic. I want to go to Florida after Christmas and this leak has me worried. Any ideas?
Been there, done that, got the "T" shirt……. Hopefully, it's a loose fitting, not the pump. Pull the side cover off & check the hose clamps for security… that's what mine was.
Or check the actual " TANK ", quite a few of them have sprung leaks in various places .....Hopefully you can find it ...and hopefully it's still covered by a warranty...........Good Luck ......Mike .........
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 12-15-2012 at 07:09 PM.
I had a leak, but only after I checked the level in the tank for the first time. Turned out I failed to reinstall the pressure cap properly. Self inflicted wound.
Been there, done that, got the "T" shirt……. Hopefully, it's a loose fitting, not the pump. Pull the side cover off & check the hose clamps for security… that's what mine was.
It's the only clamp that's a worm type,
IF that's the problem a turn or two with a screwdriver will
fix it.
As was said, check the worm clamp. You might also have a problem with the water pump shaft seal. There is a service bulletin for that. If snugging down the worm clamp doesn't fix the problem, see your dealer.
I've got a leak too. Mine is the water pump shaft seal. Antifreeze comes out the top weep hole of the water pump and drips onto the right side of the frame and brake lines just behind the radiator/fan. I get maybe a drop or two on the garage floor immediately after a ride but none while the spyder sits. Probably going through about 8oz or so every 1000 miles. Nothing major.
It's a VERY common problem in the Aprilia world with these motors. It's fine to ride as long as you pay attention to the coolant level. I'm waiting for winter before it goes in for warranty repairs...
I have a 2012 RT S se5 and my water pump shaft seal started leaking at about 5000 miles, my dealer ordered the parts but I haven't taken it in for repair yet. Now that there is snow I should take it in.
I wish that was my problem my bike is going on the 7th week in the shop for a antifreeze leak. Now they tell me I have a broke cam chain guide did test after test presure test they change all hoses getting fed up.They called my a week ago told me it was done out of the shop for a hour same problem maybe this time it will be right if not going to another dealer
I had the dsame problem. Here are some photos of what I found. A lose worm clamp was the issue for me.
Not doubting, just trying to learn but are you sure that was your only leak? Just wondering because in the 3rd pic I see what looks like an oil droplet on the motor up a bit higher.
The water pump shaft also has an oil seal on the motor side that shares the same weep hole. Not unusual to have antifreeze or a combination of oil and antifreeze come out that hole.
My pictures would look identical to yours except I don't have that obvious staining at the hose clamp like you do. But the droplets are in the exact same location on the frame. I'm right at 2500 miles and this has been going on for a little bit now....
Hopefully it's just your clamp. My 2011 RT has just over 19K on it and I have had the water pump shaft seals replaced four times; this last time they also replaced the entire clutch cover housing at the recommendation of BRP. It still leaks. It was in the dealer's again this week for "documentation" purposes. BRP wanted photos of the leak in action and exactly when it is leaking. Said they would send the photos and info to Rotax for their input.
The RT has been in the shop over 9 weeks this season for this problem. The dealer, BRP and I all agree there is no point in just continuing to replace the same things over and over. We'll see what Rotax says, if anything. Meanwhile, I'll just continue to ride it and enjoy it and keep an eye on it. Although the leak is annoying, it's so small that no significant loss of antifreeze occurs even over many miles. Winter is about here in PA so if Rotax comes up with a suggestion, I may not get it back to the dealer until spring. Depends on the snow and road salt situation.
My dealer also informed me that BRP put out a bulletin on some of their Rotax-engined ATV's that a small amount of leakage from the weep hole is normal for this type of mechanical seal and not cause for concern. The question is what is "normal and acceptable" and what is not. The dealer said no such notices have come out for the Spyder. To his credit, he's not trying to blow me off by saying it's normal. He's in it as deeply as I am and wants an answer from BRP and Rotax.
I Noticed a Little green stuff on the lower plastic (600 Miles) and the worm clamp turned a Good 3 revolutions.
Question? Is 2 inches of coolant in the bottom of the bottle enough?
Not doubting, just trying to learn but are you sure that was your only leak? Just wondering because in the 3rd pic I see what looks like an oil droplet on the motor up a bit higher.
The water pump shaft also has an oil seal on the motor side that shares the same weep hole. Not unusual to have antifreeze or a combination of oil and antifreeze come out that hole.
My pictures would look identical to yours except I don't have that obvious staining at the hose clamp like you do. But the droplets are in the exact same location on the frame. I'm right at 2500 miles and this has been going on for a little bit now....
Good catch but the oil was from another issue. When I rode my brand new RT home I found out that the factory had pinched the O-ring for the transmision filter cover. Once the engine warmed up and ran at the higher speeds it started to leak more and more. I noticed the oil on the ground during the inspection when I picked it up. I was told it was not from the RT but from something that had been parked there. Once the O-ring went it sprayed oil all over the engine bay, outside plastic, even up on the dash! Murphy Brown had this happen after an oil change and can atest to the mess it makes. I think this is just left over oil that was not cleaned up.
Good catch but the oil was from another issue. When I rode my brand new RT home I found out that the factory had pinched the O-ring for the transmision filter cover. Once the engine warmed up and ran at the higher speeds it started to leak more and more. I noticed the oil on the ground during the inspection when I picked it up. I was told it was not from the RT but from something that had been parked there. Once the O-ring went it sprayed oil all over the engine bay, outside plastic, even up on the dash! Murphy Brown had this happen after an oil change and can atest to the mess it makes. I think this is just left over oil that was not cleaned up.
Hopefully it's just your clamp. My 2011 RT has just over 19K on it and I have had the water pump shaft seals replaced four times; this last time they also replaced the entire clutch cover housing at the recommendation of BRP. It still leaks. It was in the dealer's again this week for "documentation" purposes. BRP wanted photos of the leak in action and exactly when it is leaking. Said they would send the photos and info to Rotax for their input.
The RT has been in the shop over 9 weeks this season for this problem. The dealer, BRP and I all agree there is no point in just continuing to replace the same things over and over. We'll see what Rotax says, if anything. Meanwhile, I'll just continue to ride it and enjoy it and keep an eye on it. Although the leak is annoying, it's so small that no significant loss of antifreeze occurs even over many miles. Winter is about here in PA so if Rotax comes up with a suggestion, I may not get it back to the dealer until spring. Depends on the snow and road salt situation.
My dealer also informed me that BRP put out a bulletin on some of their Rotax-engined ATV's that a small amount of leakage from the weep hole is normal for this type of mechanical seal and not cause for concern. The question is what is "normal and acceptable" and what is not. The dealer said no such notices have come out for the Spyder. To his credit, he's not trying to blow me off by saying it's normal. He's in it as deeply as I am and wants an answer from BRP and Rotax.
One thing to note, is that from my understanding if you buy a clutch cover housing it comes with the seals already installed. So, to install the shaft you have to drive it through both seals (not good). This along with burs on the shaft as well as possible sloppy installation practices (using a hammer, haha...), can make the seal real prone to failure.
I figure I'll give the dealer one shot with it since mine is still under warranty. However, it really doesn't seem to be that big of a deal to do this repair correctly with just a little attention to detail....
I also just found antifreeze leaking and I think it coming from this area in the attached photo. I checked for loose clamps and didn't see any antifreeze leaking at the clamps.
Can someone tell me what this item is and is it possible for antifreeze to leak from this part?
Last edited by YIRYDE; 12-17-2012 at 12:12 AM.
[B]
2018 Intense Red F3T (See About Me under My Profile for mods) 2010 Timeless Black RT-622 Trailer
2014 Timeless Black RTS-SE6, 34,300 Miles, traded May 2019
2011 Timeless Black RTS-SE5, 15,180 Miles, traded April 2014
I also just found antifreeze leaking and I think it coming from this area in the attached photo. I checked for loose clamps and didn't see any antifreeze leaking at the clamps.
Can someone tell me what this item is and is it possible for antifreeze to leak from this part?
See my post #9, I had anti-freeze on the oil pressure switch also. I was not able to see the leak at the hose until I took the photo.
It looks to me as if that's your oil pressure switch so I'd think that coolant leaking from that isn't possible.
Coolant could collect on it from the worm & roller clamp located above it.
JMHO.
Roger,
Thanks for the reply and I will check the clamp you suggested again.
[B]
2018 Intense Red F3T (See About Me under My Profile for mods) 2010 Timeless Black RT-622 Trailer
2014 Timeless Black RTS-SE6, 34,300 Miles, traded May 2019
2011 Timeless Black RTS-SE5, 15,180 Miles, traded April 2014
One thing to note, is that from my understanding if you buy a clutch cover housing it comes with the seals already installed. So, to install the shaft you have to drive it through both seals (not good). This along with burs on the shaft as well as possible sloppy installation practices (using a hammer, haha...), can make the seal real prone to failure.
I figure I'll give the dealer one shot with it since mine is still under warranty. However, it really doesn't seem to be that big of a deal to do this repair correctly with just a little attention to detail....
Good Luck Guys!
Doug
Now we're talking! This is how it would be done with large water pump. A ceramic seal has to be carefully handled, and cannot just have a shaft pounded through it. That being said, all mechanical seals will leak a tiny bit. That is why there is a weep hole. If a seal doesn't leak enough fluid by to cool the faces, it will gall and fail over time. It is when the leak becomes objectionable that the seal must be replaced. How much is "too much" is subject to interpretation, though.
Thanks for digging this up.
Originally Posted by pman2011
I also just found antifreeze leaking and I think it coming from this area in the attached photo. I checked for loose clamps and didn't see any antifreeze leaking at the clamps.
Can someone tell me what this item is and is it possible for antifreeze to leak from this part?
As was said, oil pressure switch. Your antifreeze leak is probably coming from somewhere else, and just collecting there. It doesn't even have to come from above. The air in this area is not still, and drops can blow anywhere, or be forced there by the motion of the vehicle.
See my post #9, I had anti-freeze on the oil pressure switch also. I was not able to see the leak at the hose until I took the photo.
JJW,
I saw your post and submitted the picture that you took to show the area of my leak. I will check that clamp again and I hope it will fix my leak as it has fixed others.
Thanks for the tip.
[B]
2018 Intense Red F3T (See About Me under My Profile for mods) 2010 Timeless Black RT-622 Trailer
2014 Timeless Black RTS-SE6, 34,300 Miles, traded May 2019
2011 Timeless Black RTS-SE5, 15,180 Miles, traded April 2014
I saw your post and submitted the picture that you took to show the area of my leak. I will check that clamp again and I hope it will fix my leak as it has fixed others.
Thanks for the tip.
That's why the photo looked so familiar I thought that was a photo of your leak. I had to stick that camera right up in there to get the photo. Until I took the photo I was not able to see the leak even using a flash light.
One thing to note, is that from my understanding if you buy a clutch cover housing it comes with the seals already installed. So, to install the shaft you have to drive it through both seals (not good). This along with burs on the shaft as well as possible sloppy installation practices (using a hammer, haha...), can make the seal real prone to failure.
I figure I'll give the dealer one shot with it since mine is still under warranty. However, it really doesn't seem to be that big of a deal to do this repair correctly with just a little attention to detail....
Good Luck Guys!
Doug
The Aprilia thread is quite interesting and informative. However, it seems BRP has gotten a little smarter since then. The ceramic seal and water pump shaft come only as a complete unit, with the seal factory-mounted on the shaft. That takes the mechanic out of the picture as far as properly getting the seal on the shaft, which is what the Aprilia thread is all about. An oil seal does have to be installed in the clutch cover housing but that is straightforward. Then the shaft/ceramic-seal assembly is installed in the clutch cover housing, sliding the shaft thru the oil seal and seating the ceramic seal in position. A special tool is required to press the ceramic seal (with the shaft already in it) into place. To me it seems the chances of damaging the seal with this technique are much less than if the mechanic had to install the seal on the shaft. As for the experience with my RT, two different technicians have been involved in my four seals -- the lead tech did three installs and one was done by the other BRP tech when the lead tech was on vacation. So I've had two different tech's involved, both with the same result. Further, I know they've had many discussions with BRP over this so I feel confident BRP gave them lots of advice on making sure it was done properly.
As for the clutch cover housing, when that is purchased, it comes with an oil seal (don't know if it's installed or just provided) and a couple sets of plain bearings which support the end of the crankshaft and balance shaft. They provide different-sized bearings and the tech has to match the bearings to the shaft sizes and then install the proper bearings in the clutch cover housing. The water-pump shaft/ceramic-bearing assembly is sold and provided separately from the clutch cover housing and is installed as above.
I agree, it shouldn't be all that big a deal to do correctly. The hardest part is getting access. Lots of stuff has to be gotten out of the way. My tech's decided to take the frunk off for better access even though the manual would have you go in just from the side.
Leaking antifreeze
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Originally Posted by Dragonrider
It's the only clamp that's a worm type,
I thought that was a photo of your leak. I had to stick that camera right up in there to get the photo. Until I took the photo I was not able to see the leak even using a flash light.
