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How to use other brands of trailer with RT?
I really want to buy a trailer for my 2012 RT-S, but it looks like there isn't much chance of getting a RT-622 trailer for less than around $4000-4500. By the time I add the hitch, and a few accessories, like the tongue stand, the price tag is going to be over $5000. I don't want to spend that much money, so I've been looking at other brands of motorcycle trailers. My question is how to tow another brand of trailer with the RT? I've seen an RT with the Spyder hitch installed, pictured with a different brand of trailer, so obviously, the Spyder hitch will work with other brands of trailer. Are any modifications to the hitch or wiring required, though?
Linda
(aka Bengaluvr)
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Very Active Member
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The BRP Can Am hitch is fine as it does not matter which trailer as long as it has the correct ball,( 1 7/8" or 2") and not the issue. It the wiring for the lights that has to be dealt with.
But no worries just search the forum for trailer wiring and you will see lots of information, schematics, photos etc. if you still have questions just post them here and I am sure help will be available.
as to the Harbor Freight trailer it is great but I would replace the Chinese wheel bearings with better ones, redo the wiring to make it more secure to the trailer and be better protected from the weather. Also if you got the 8" wheels I would swap them out for the 12" wheels. The wheels and bearing are not that expensive, total around $100 or so for it all. That brings the cost to $500 or so still cheaper than the Piggy Back which if you can afford it would be my first choice in this type of trailer. Best choice for a replacement to the BRP product would be one of the aluminum box trailers as you mentioned. They are light have a lot of space and are pretty indestructible.
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The wiring is the challenge. There are several combinations of trailers and hitches. If the BRP hitch is used, it will require a different connector on the trailer...or building an adapter. It may also require some trailer light changes and rewiring, if the trailer has a 5-wire system. Cost of the changes would run $70-$200, plus labor. If you use a non-BRP hitch, it will require wiring directly to the the Spyder system. The hard part is finding a place and way to bring out the pigtail. It may also require a converter to match a trailer with a 4-wire system...or changes to the trailer. Costs would be $25-$100, plus labor, if the trailer didn't need changes.
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I have a Harbor frt. trailer removed one leaf of the two leaf springs and used the 8 inch wheels with 17 lbs pressure. First trip was 600 miles at 70 mph speeds and about 140 lbs of cargo at 85-90 degree temp. Checked tire temps with infrared temp sensor and never once did they get hot. I used stock wheel bearings repacked with mobile 1 grease they stayed cool. This trailer is now 3 years old and still going with no problems. Small wheels make trailer sit perfect behind Spyder and for me seem to look better.
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formerly pman2011
You can also call around to dealers looking for a demo model they want to get rid off. I found a new 2010 RT-622 that I traveled 9 hours roundtip to get for $2400.00. I made a lot of phone calls but it was worth it.
[B]
2018 Intense Red F3T (See About Me under My Profile for mods)
2010 Timeless Black RT-622 Trailer
2014 Timeless Black RTS-SE6, 34,300 Miles, traded May 2019
2011 Timeless Black RTS-SE5, 15,180 Miles, traded April 2014
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This is what I have and it works really well. It is light and has a good bit of room. They do have a bigger model as well. I didn't think the price was too bad at all.
http://www.motorcycle-rack.com/CycleTrailer.htm
DSCN0490.jpg
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Originally Posted by Bengaluvr
I really want to buy a trailer for my 2012 RT-S, but it looks like there isn't much chance of getting a RT-622 trailer for less than around $4000-4500. By the time I add the hitch, and a few accessories, like the tongue stand, the price tag is going to be over $5000. I don't want to spend that much money, so I've been looking at other brands of motorcycle trailers. My question is how to tow another brand of trailer with the RT? I've seen an RT with the Spyder hitch installed, pictured with a different brand of trailer, so obviously, the Spyder hitch will work with other brands of trailer. Are any modifications to the hitch or wiring required, though?
Linda
(aka Bengaluvr)
http://jdbrand.com/motorcycletrailer.html
I was lloking at this trailer
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A friend of mime has the harbor freight one pictured above and got it for about $339. WE went on a 1400 ride this summer and it towed straight and tru. I tow a Aspen Classic tent trailer.
2015 RT Ltd , Canamspyderaccessories Brake pedal ext. Red
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Don't forget to look at one of this sites sponsors. I have 2 friends that have their trailers and they just love them and are very reasonably priced.
http://www.minitrailerusa.com/
Their ad is on the home page of spyderlovers.com
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Very Active Member
Another site sponsor on the homepage is Bushtec. I tow one, and love it.
....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....
ride like the one-eyed Jack of Diamonds, with
the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....
2008 GS.....PE # 2888
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I Like It!
Originally Posted by captblack
This looks a lot like the Minitrailers, but it is a little different in the front profile. Thanks for the information! Did you use the BRP hitch and wiring? If so, how did you wire the trailer's lights?
Last edited by spydeyblue; 11-05-2012 at 04:01 AM.
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Originally Posted by Bengaluvr
This looks a lot like the Minitrailers, but it is a little different in the front profile. Thanks for the information! Did you use the BRP hitch and wiring? If so, how did you wire the trailer's lights?
I did use the BRP hitch which comes with the harness that hooks to the lighting harness and then puts the plug down on the left-hand fender. To hook up the trailer, you'll need to get a pole harness, BRP part number 710002442. What I did was hook the pole harness up to the connector on the fender, hook up the trailer, and then measure the length that I would need to reach the trailer four pin connector. I then cut off the BRP connector and installed a regular flat 4 pin connector to mate up with the trailer.
Now all I have to do is unhook from the fender and the poll harness stays with the trailer. In the poll harness package there is a wiring code so all in all, it is pretty simple. The hardest part is hooking up the harness to the fender and a friend of mine, who had done it before, helped me do that. The one thing that I added was a couple of small bungee cords to help secure the cable to the hitch frame in addition to the two clips that are already there.
I just took a 1500 mile trip in this setup worked perfectly. The wiring part will be the same no matter what trailer you wind up with. Good luck with whatever you do because the trailer really makes a difference on a long trip. Luckily, I have not been tempted yet to hook it up and go to the store - that could be expensive.
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Here is a link to the Bushtec website, we bought their trailer hitch and wiring harness. They are a great company to work with and are very helpful during the wiring process, if you are having trouble give them a call and they will walk you through it. They are very into quality...our hitch was late being delivered so I called to see what the problem was...it came back from powder coating and the paint was not good so they sent it back to get redone and they were just about to contact us to let us know!
--Paula
www.bushtec.com/
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Spyder Owner Since June '08 & April '12
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Originally Posted by captblack
I did use the BRP hitch which comes with the harness that hooks to the lighting harness and then puts the plug down on the left-hand fender. To hook up the trailer, you'll need to get a pole harness, BRP part number 710002442. What I did was hook the pole harness up to the connector on the fender, hook up the trailer, and then measure the length that I would need to reach the trailer four pin connector. I then cut off the BRP connector and installed a regular flat 4 pin connector to mate up with the trailer....
This is an adapter as described above, made from an RT-622 harness. It has a 6-pole connector to fit my trailers, but you get the idea. You can also use the 2010 RT-622 Trailer Tongue Harness, but you will have some extra wires.
Originally Posted by Butch2025&Paula
Here is a link to the Bushtec website, we bought their trailer hitch and wiring harness. They are a great company to work with and are very helpful during the wiring process, if you are having trouble give them a call and they will walk you through it. They are very into quality...our hitch was late being delivered so I called to see what the problem was...it came back from powder coating and the paint was not good so they sent it back to get redone and they were just about to contact us to let us know!
--Paula
www.bushtec.com/
The Bushtec hitch is not available for the RT.
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Aluma Trailer For Sale
Bengaluvr, I have an Aluma Trailer for sale. The ad seems to have dropped from the 4-Sale Forum, but I'm happy to send you pics and info via email if you'd like to take a look. I live in the Sacramento area, so I'm not far from you. Send me a PM with your email address if you're interested. It will come with the BRP trailer harness modified for the 2011 RT, so it's a simple plug and go.
-Anita
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Very Active Member
8 INCH WHEELS
If you are nervous about small wheels....you can get 6 ply tires.....try Eastern Marine 800-453-7379, very good prices.......Mike
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you can purchase an adapter for the wiring through the internet or the dealer...i have one that adapts from the can am connection to a flat 4 wire standard hook up...i cant remeber the price but it works well on our camper..the internet would probably be a lot cheaper price wise...good luck ...happy towing...
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Originally Posted by shasta
Just for you folks looking at putting a trailer together for your travels....
Be very careful those harbor freight chassis that folks are getting and then putting a car top on, is not a good idea.
If you'll go on harbor freight site go to that trailer click on down load the manual, page 15 at the top right corner.
It says not to pull over speeds of 45 MPH!
I think some of them have axle plcement problems, and maybe the tongue to axle placement is off!
That will make a huge difference on how it pulls, that is the most curcial thing on a small trailers pulling ability.
I know of several people that used those and have had very bad results with them, including wrecks..
I've been told that some of them at 65 MPH. they begin to whip back and fourth.
I know that some have no troubles at all and are able to put many miles on them.
But there are still some having major problems.
Not trying to sell anybody a trailer or ofend anybody by this statement but just a word of warning.
Just trying to do my little bit to make everybody's rides fun and safe ones!
I have a Mini Trailer USA Nomad trailer on order. I saw videos of another car carrier type trailer going down the road that was bouncing pretty good. This video was on the dealers site and seeing the cover flopping around in the wind did not give much confidence that it would hold up for the long run.
Once the trailer arrives around Jan 11th I will post a thread showing how I end up connecting it to my RT. I am ready to add mods to it.
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