Do's & Do Not's for New Spyder Owners: Updated Sept 29th, 2012
There are several "things" a Spyder owner needs to know when buying and operating their Spyder to help them have a better experience, and to avoid causing complications later. That is a collection of "sage-advice" gathered from various resources on Spyder Lover's and other sources to help you enjoy your experience with your Spyder; and to avoid "beginner mistakes" that may cause grief later-on. If anyone has suggestions to add to the list... please do.
READ THE MANUAL FRONT COVER TO THE BACK!!! The Spyder is fun and you are anxious to ride it; but do yourself a HUGE favor and read the manual entirely before doing so. You may be surprised at what you and your dealer do not know.
Learn how your Spyder works. You do not have to become a mechanic, but having knowledge will help you out in more ways than can be mentioned.
Spyderlovers.com is a good place to learn.
Buy from a dealer with a good reputation. Setting-up a new Spyder seems to be a huge problem if not done correctly. Your odds of having a miserable experience increases if you don't.
Do not "ride the brake” or touch the brake when riding or cornering.
Pay attention to whether you are doing this and stop-it!
Too many people seem to have this bad-habit, and the Spyder doesn't like it. The "system" will begin to give you trouble. So blame yourself if you ride your brake -- period. It will cause you problems.
SHIFTING:
Shift and cruise at higher RPM's. Get over your fear of running the Spyder's Rotax engine at high RPM's. A properly maintained Rotax engine is designed to run at high RPM’s. For proof; the RTS SE5's "Trailer Mode" won't let you shift out of 1st gear until you hit 28 MPH!
Lugging the engine: Lugging occurs when having the Spyder in too-high of gear and too-low of RPM's while accelerating somewhat aggressively. Example: In 5th gear doing 50 MPH and deciding to accelerate to 65 quickly. You are likely going to lug the engine. Lugging results in knocking and vibrations beyond the norm. Lugging can be done in any gear between 2nd to 5th. Avoid accelerating in too high of a gear; while at a low RPM. Downshift first; or better yet... get used to running the engine at higher RPM's no matter what gear you are in.
The RTS-SE5's manual may confuse some on pages 71 and 76 where it mentions 3,000 RPM's as the "magic-number" to shift; and not to exceed 4,000 RPM's.
This is in reference to someone learning to ride the Spyder for the first time -- NOT the normal operating range.
Clutch engagement: the Spyder's clutch is generally fully engaged when the RPM's are at 3500 or higher. Allowing your Spyder to run at RPM's lower than that for extended periods causes slippage in the clutch resulting in early wear on the unit. Most have found the best performance is realized when you keep the Spyder's RPM's above 4300 at any time while riding. Example: When shifting to the next higher gear at 5100 RPM's the next gear will engage and drop the RPM's to 4300. That is the range you want to stay above.
Just because the Spyder has 5-gears does NOT mean you have to always use all of them. Apparently many assume they have to shift their Spyder up to 5th gear no matter how fast or slow they are going. You do not have to use all five gears if you are cruising around town at 35 to 47 MPH as an example. In that scenario you should never leave 3rd gear if you are cruising around between 35 - 47 MPH; and it is OK to do that all day. Shifting to 4th in that scenario will drop the RPM's below the 4300 range and puts strain on the Spyder's ability to perform at its best power-range -- which diminishes the performance of your machine. In essence, you are robbing yourself of the full potential and enjoyment of your Spyder if you use too high of gears when they are not needed.
Shifting-point suggestions for a RTS-SE5:
1st to 2nd: shift when your speed is between 22 MPH and 28 MPH - no sooner.
2nd to 3rd: shift when the RPM's are at 5,100
3rd to 4th: shift when RPM's are at 5,100 (at 47-48 MPH)
4th to 5th: shift to 5th when you reach 65 MPH on level terrain.
You can ride all day in 4th between 47 MPH up to and including 65 MPH. (Some run at much higher RPM's than that.) If you are cruising in that speed-range, you do not need to use 5th gear -- and that is OK to do all day for hours on end and for as long as you own your Spyder. Resist shifting to 5th-gear in that range. Cruising in 4th gear between 63-65 MPH will have the RPM's in the mid 5,000 RPM range -- which begins to put the engine in its better performance-range (more power) which is what you want! You will likely find your Spyder will run quieter, smoother, and still have power at the throttle in that RPM range, and the dreaded "belt-vibration" might not be a problem when you finally get used to the above suggestions. In a short sentence... you'll find a whole new machine if you operate it as suggested here.
5th: Use only when the you are at a minimum of 65 MPH and on level terrain.... and
downshift on hills. On hilly terrain, you'll need to upshift and downshift frequently to keep the Spyser's RPM's above 4300 RPM's at minimum. This is a good rule-of-thumb no matter what gear or speed you are traveling. Keep the RPM's above 4300! Do not let your Spyder lug it's way uphills! You should be treated so poorly for doing so!
DO NOT roll-off the throttle when shifting with the SE5 system (read the manual)! Too many ask and debate this subject; which clearly shows they have NOT read the manual if they suggest rolling-off the throttle. Shame on you! Read the manual -- which is step one!
Do not hold the shift-paddle for too long. There have been some having problems by resting their fingers on the paddle-shifter; which apparently can confuse the Spyder's system as to what you are doing. Probably a good idea to get out of that habit if you are doing that before you experience problems.
Downshift when stopping with the
SE5 -- especially fast stops. Some have found the Spyder may not downshift to 1st gear. You might then experience the dreaded "I can't get it into first-gear syndrome". Doesn't happen often... but when it does it is a "pain". No quick resolution if this happens... you just have to repeatedly try to get into first again. Eventually it should; while drivers honk at you for not moving!
Apply brake when starting the engine. Simply get into that habit. Too many new riders are finding themselves stranded with a Spyder that won't start; until they finally put their foot on the brake and find their Spyder starts right-up. (An SE5 Spyder requires pressure on the brake to start it unless you are in neutral. Many make sure it is in neutral before shutting the motor down. You don't have to do that, as the SE5 Spyder will go into neutral automatically when started while applying the brake.
V-Twins motorcycle riders -- you guys are too used to your engine lugging along at 2,100 to 3,500 RPM's. That is a killer for the Spyder. Re-read the above information. The Rotax engine is NOT your old V-Twin. It works best at much higher RPM's; so get used to it for better performance and don't try to make it your old v-twin.
Simply believe what you just read about shifting and engine performance and do it. Your will discover an entirely different machine when you finally do so.
Remove the key from the ignition (and the spare from the trunk) and walk away at least 15 feet for several minutes to allow the computer to reset itself if you have minor "booting" problems when starting. Some will say this doesn't work; while others say it will -- but all say doing this has been known to help to calm your nerves, which in that situation may be the best benefit of doing this.
Tire pressure and shock-setting makes a big difference in how the Spyder handles. Both tire pressure and shock setting depends on your load-weight, and type of riding, but there will be an optimal tire pressure and shock stiffness. Don't forget the RTS has a rear air-shock that can also be adjusted to your liking. (READ THE MANUAL) Check these settings often. A starting-point for s
hock setting is 4 or 5. Seems the stiffer the better for most. Tire pressure preference varies also, but a start is 18-20 lbs. in the front tires and 28 lbs. in the back tire. (The 2013 ST and RT's appear to have a new front-end design. No reports yet on what adjustments these may need, if any.)
Check your battery cables, fuses, and such often. Anytime these get loose from vibration... the Spyder acts badly.
Pay attention to how your Spyder is running. If your Spyder is showing even the slightest sign of not running or operating right... check to be sure you are not guilty of doing, or are not doing any of the above. If not, then get it checked-out as soon as possible or risk having problems later -- possibly while on a trip.
Check your windshield brackets often. They have been known to fail occasionally. Have them replaced if you notice any small cracks.
Get a battery tender and hook it up to your battery in-between riding it. "Tenders" condition the battery which helps make a battery last longer and remain charged. Make sure what you get is a battery-tender for this purpose -- not a regular charger. (Short-rides do not always sufficiently charge your battery.)
Do not ride on gravel roads. Despite the fact you are on three-wheels... you are also "belt-driven". Rocks and belts don't mix. Just simply avoid doing it whenever possible, and then check your belt right after doing so if you have to.
Fluid levels (i.e., brake, oil, coolant) have to be correct. Check them often as your Spyder will not run right if they are not. (Brake fluid level will go lower as the brake-pads begins to wear due to the brake cylinder traveling further to contact the pads to the rotors. While your brake-pads may still look good, your brake-fluid is now lower and the Spyder might throw a code for it; thus stopping your trip... while you scratch your head wondering why. Simply check the fluid as you add miles and top-it-off.)
Be sure to relax your grip on the handlebars. People's first propensity is to squeeze the daylights out of the grips. This will make the Spyder skip from side-to-side causing a "jerky-ride" (lateral movement). JUST RELAX your grip, and you'll soon see that the Spyder's ride will have a reduction in its "jerkiness". Relaxing typically comes naturally after riding it for several hundred miles. However; remember, a Spyder will always have some lateral movement to it; which is only part of the thrill of riding one!
V-Twin riders and other motorcyclists are the ones seemingly most affected by the lateral movement associated with the Spyder. They are just going to have to realize the Spyder is not a two-wheel v-twin and it is going to feel different. Also motorcycle riders need to "un-learn" counter-steering when riding a Spyder. It simply doesn't apply to a Spyder.
Be sure to have fun and ride often... probably should be the #1 "MUST DO".