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SpyderLovers Founder
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Very Active Member
BELT TENSION
Lamont, thanks for this thread......What if you want to just decrease or increase total belt tension without moving the belt either right or left.....I know this may sound stupid but maybe someone else is slightly confused....I know there is slack in the adjusters how do compensate for that.?.......thanks again Mike...
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MOgang Member & Monster Member
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
Lamont, thanks for this thread......What if you want to just decrease or increase total belt tension without moving the belt either right or left.....I know this may sound stupid but maybe someone else is slightly confused....I know there is slack in the adjusters how do compensate for that.?.......thanks again Mike...
I would loosen th axle nut
Jack the Spyder up
Back the adjusting bolts 1/4 turn at a time
Rotate the tire forward
Lower the Spyder back on the ground to put tension on the belt
Raise it back up and check tension
Repete till you have it where you like it
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I'm looking to buy one of these hitches used if anybody's got one they want to part with.
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Very Active Member
Here is a short u-tube video showing how to properly use the Kirkit tool
All the great movements in the world began with a cup of coffee!
2018 F3-T
My mods: Can am Trailer hitch, USB and 12 volt power outlets, Gustason windshield, Bead rider seat cushion, battery harness for electric gear and battery tender, Time out trailer.
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by CyncySpyder
I really Wonder if BRP realizes just how Valuable this forum has been, and continues to be on a daily basis for the Majority of Grateful Spyder Owners Thanks to such knowledgeable members such as yourself sharing with the masses Teddy & I THANK YOU, LAMONT
Thank you thank you!!!
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Belt Tension Limits per Midwest Manuals pg 483
According to Service Bulletin 2010-6 the "new" factory tension is supposed to be:
450 +/- 150 Newtons
(or a minimum of 300 to a maximum of 600 Newtons)
Conversion Math:
Newtons multiplied by 0.225 = Pounds
OR, Newtons divided by 4.45 = Pounds
Newtons Belt Tension Converted to Pounds:
300 Newtons = 67.4 lbs
450 Newtons = 101.2 lbs
600 Newtons = 134.9 lbs
However, this does not mean what you should be getting. It simply shows the difference between the numbers the dealer uses versus what may seem an easy mathematical "conversion".
WHY BRP chose to measure the belt tension with an expensive piece of equipment is up for grabs! After all, tension is tension. They just chose an expensive way of measuring it.
IMHO, if you used an expensive sonic tester to measure an "x" amount of Newtons, then that number will have a mathematical equivelent in pounds which logically may be measured by a more "Owner Friendly" means. Conversely, if one were to tension a belt to "x" pounds it would also have a reflective newton value.
***Thanks Scotty for the updated limits! I was not aware of them when I made my original post.
Last edited by SpyderFun; 05-03-2012 at 10:14 AM.
Reason: ***Reflects SB 2010-6***
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Originally Posted by SpyderFun
According to MWM the factory tension is supposed to be:
750 +/- 250 Newtons
(or a minimum of 500 to a maximum of 1,000 Newtons)
Conversion Math:
Newtons multiplied by 0.225 = Pounds
OR, Newtons divided by 4.45 = Pounds
Newtons Belt Tension Converted to Pounds:
500 Newtons = 112.4 Pounds
750 Newtons = 168.6 Pounds
1,000 Newtons = 224.8 Pounds
I hope this helps those that have questions about what numbers they should be getting.
IMHO, if you used an expensive sonic tester to measure an "x" amount of Newtons, then that number will have a mathematical equivelent in pounds which may be measured by a more "Owner Friendly" means.
The belt tension spec was changed to 450 N +/- 150 N, per Service Bulletin 2010-6. Do not use the old tension spec, it will destroy the front sprocket and possibly the drive shaft. Also be aware that the BRP spec is the average of three readings taken at different places on the belt, and is read with the Spyder jacked up. Changes of conditions will change the readings. Theoretically, you cannot directly convert sonic meter readings, since they take belt width, span, and mass into account, while mere "scales" do not. The best method is to have the belt properly adjusted, then take baseline readings with an alternate meter, to get a target.
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POST UPDATED
Updated my post with info provided by Scotty....
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
....Theoretically, you cannot directly convert sonic meter readings, since they take belt width, span, and mass into account, while mere "scales" do not.
Not sure I agree.
BEGINNING with a sonic measurement, which takes in all the belt info to determine a value, and then converting THAT number should work. BRP gives us their acceptable "sonic" range.
BUT, beginning with a tension and then trying to convert THAT, a number that takes no belt info into consideration, into a sonic equivalent would likely prove difficult if not impossible.
It would nice if some shop did a compareison between these two methods! (i.e. a Kriket tensioned belt of "x" when "plucked" would give a "y" sonic value)
Originally Posted by NancysToy
...The best method is to have the belt properly adjusted, then take baseline readings with an alternate meter, to get a target.
Last edited by SpyderFun; 05-03-2012 at 10:21 AM.
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Originally Posted by SpyderFun
Not sure I agree.
BEGINNING with a sonic measurement, which takes in all the belt info to determine a value, and then converting THAT number should work. BRP gives us their acceptable "sonic" range.
BUT, beginning with a tension and then trying to convert THAT, a number that takes no belt info into consideration, into a sonic equivalent would likely prove difficult if not impossible.
It would nice if some shop did a compareison between these two methods! (i.e. a Kriket tensioned belt of "x" when "plucked" would give a "y" sonic value)
It should work, and it is probably close, considering the OEM spec is now +/- 33%. I would also like to see a comparison of readings taken jacked up and on the ground.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Lamonster
I would loosen th axle nut
Jack the Spyder up
Back the adjusting bolts 1/4 turn at a time
Rotate the tire forward
Lower the Spyder back on the ground to put tension on the belt
Raise it back up and check tension
Repete till you have it where you like it
Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.
Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.
Happy Spyderlovers
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Alignment or Tension???
Originally Posted by StanProff
Is there anything wrong with placing the floor jack under the shock/mount and get the tire just an inch off the concrete? Seems this would keep the tension on the belt same as on the ground.
Also I have played with it in the last few days on alignment and have run in 3rd gear with it jacked up and have not had a Limp mode. (I seen mention of this somewhere, that if the rear wheel is moving and the front is not that you will get a limp mode). Mine is a 2010 Rt-S. If it is pointed in a straight line I don't think the computer cares, kinda like doing a burn out etc. I wouldn't abuse mine that way but I've seen it done.
Are you doing a belt alignment or belt tension?
Jacking under the rear shock is a no-no per the maintenance manual.
Not too sure why you would go as high as 3rd gear when 1st gear can give you the rotation necessary for determining proper alignment.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderFun
Are you doing a belt alignment or belt tension?
Jacking under the rear shock is a no-no per the maintenance manual.
Not too sure why you would go as high as 3rd gear when 1st gear can give you the rotation necessary for determining proper alignment.
Doing alignment: I think I read somewhere that using 3rd was a little safer if something were to happen and the spyder fell to the ground. It would kill the motor easier than first. I am sure it doesn't matter much either way. Also it seemed to spin a little smoother in 3rd than 1st, i had it in both. 1st was a little more hurky jerky. Anyway the alignment worked out perfect and all is well. I ordered a Kriket to check the belt tension and will tackle that next. Thanks for your input.
Happy Spyderlovers
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Thank you very much. Abig help, as allways
Oldmanzues
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by pellcitypete
I had my spyder (2011 rt ) orr the ground like you and all broke out computer went crazy! you are lucky or I am jinks just my 2 cents Pete
He got lucky and yours did what it should do. You should not run your Spyder in gear without pulling the speed sensor and I wouldn't recommend doing that. You can do all your adjustment just fine like I have posted above.
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Axle Nut
Thanks for all the info on adjusting the belt. Can anyone tell me how tight the axle nut should be? Thanks!!
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Originally Posted by Bill C
Thanks for all the info on adjusting the belt. Can anyone tell me how tight the axle nut should be? Thanks!!
96 lbf-ft
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