Can you "stack" the 1" riser block on top of the brp 1" riser stem?

[ARCTIC]

My quest continues.....
I ordered the custom dynamics risers and my ISCI brake resi hits the riser preventing me from being able to tip the riser back far enough to keep the brake handle level and get the lever back far enough so it doesn't hit the windshield. I actually need the mirror image of the left hand side to be able to gain clearance.

So I was wondering if I could put a 1" riser block on top of the existing 1" riser stem? it looks like possible the cable for the frunk release would be the bind? anyone done this?

This is the block I'm talking about: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330723611636...r#ht_596wt_698

[NancysToy]

I suspect you could, but be aware that these riser blocks generally will prohibit the steering lock from working.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

ARCTIC , can you post some pictures of what you are dealing with and I think you mis-spelled a word after ISCI brake ( resi ) that makes no sense as written....at least not to me.....and I'd like to help you.......Mike.....

[Firefly]

My quest continues.....
I ordered the custom dynamics risers and my ISCI brake resi hits the riser preventing me from being able to tip the riser back far enough to keep the brake handle level and get the lever back far enough so it doesn't hit the windshield. I actually need the mirror image of the left hand side to be able to gain clearance.

So I was wondering if I could put a 1" riser block on top of the existing 1" riser stem? it looks like possible the cable for the frunk release would be the bind? anyone done this?

This is the block I'm talking about: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330723611636...r#ht_596wt_698

If you're thinking you can 'double stack' the 1" BRP center riser.... the answer is no.

Not sure what risers you're talking about when you mention 'custom dynamics'. If they are like what was the previous ESI ones.. then you can use the 3" version along with the BRP 1" center riser without modifying cables. Any more than that and you'll probably not have enough cable length.

Someone was making a 3" center riser and selling them.. might do a google search. Might have been Spyder City.... just don't remember.

[bobnaquin]

My quest continues.....
I ordered the custom dynamics risers and my ISCI brake resi hits the riser preventing me from being able to tip the riser back far enough to keep the brake handle level and get the lever back far enough so it doesn't hit the windshield. I actually need the mirror image of the left hand side to be able to gain clearance.

So I was wondering if I could put a 1" riser block on top of the existing 1" riser stem? it looks like possible the cable for the frunk release would be the bind? anyone done this?

This is the block I'm talking about: http://www.ebay.com/itm/330723611636...r#ht_596wt_698

I have an unsed 2 inch riser if that will help. I don't understand your situation but a 2 inch riser sounds better than 2-1 inch risers.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Since you have an SE you don't have a clutch so the mirror image thing ain't happening unless you mock up a "DUMMY" one and that seems pretty senseless....and since you have "dog bone " style risers , I can't picture any scenerio where the brake handle is hitting the windshield....You do realise that the risers can be slanted/angled towards you...right.....and just for general info...there is enough slack in the cables /wires for 5 inch risers, and you can still turn lock to lock.....Mike....

[ARCTIC]

The reservoir for the ISCI brake hits the riser as I roll it towards me and it prevents from setting the riser back far enough to clear the windshield as the brake handle is forced to rotate upwards as I pull them towards me making the lever pitched upward at a funny angle. I'm thinking about saying F-IT and getting the kewl metal 5" or 7" pull back bars. it's only another $40 more than what I've invested in the risers.

[ARCTIC]

I suspect you could, but be aware that these riser blocks generally will prohibit the steering lock from working.

How do you lock the steering? mine doesn't do it as far as I know

[NancysToy]

How do you lock the steering? mine doesn't do it as far as I know

They all do it (unless you have the block-type riser). I suspect you haven't read your manual. Turn the handlebars to full lock to either side, then turn the key counterclockwise without pressing it down. You may have to wiggle the bars a bit for the dog to drop in the hole.

[retread]

The reservoir for the ISCI brake hits the riser as I roll it towards me and it prevents from setting the riser back far enough to clear the windshield as the brake handle is forced to rotate upwards as I pull them towards me making the lever pitched upward at a funny angle. I'm thinking about saying F-IT and getting the kewl metal 5" or 7" pull back bars. it's only another $40 more than what I've invested in the risers.

Not sure this will work, but if you've got the ESI risers, there's a hole in the center you can feed the hydraulic line from the hand brake through that should give you more clearance. The clutch line on my SM5 is set up this way.

john

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I could be wrong on this, it's happened before....but ARCTIC I think you are going to need more parts then just the handlebars.....like a whole new center section $250 ??.....If you could post some pictures I'll bet I could help you out with this.....I"ve engineered some interesting stuff ask Karyl ..aka "Murphy Brown", she's seen them up close and personal....Mike..........I just re-read your post #7, I think if you switched the left and right riser to the opposite side and possibly turned them around they might work....seeing a picture of what you have would really really be helpfull.....or maybe I could just come over....it's only ...what 2000 miles from me

[ARCTIC]

Not sure this will work, but if you've got the ESI risers, there's a hole in the center you can feed the hydraulic line from the hand brake through that should give you more clearance. The clutch line on my SM5 is set up this way.

john

John, good idea but the hydraulic line is off the end of the resi so it doesn't cause any issues. It's the bottom of the reservoir itself that hits.

I could be wrong on this, it's happened before....but ARCTIC I think you are going to need more parts then just the handlebars.....like a whole new center section $250 ??.....If you could post some pictures I'll bet I could help you out with this.....I"ve engineered some interesting stuff ask Karyl ..aka "Murphy Brown", she's seen them up close and personal....Mike..........I just re-read your post #7, I think if you switched the left and right riser to the opposite side and possibly turned them around they might work....seeing a picture of what you have would reaqlly really be helpfull.....or maybe I could just come over....it's only ...what 2000 miles from me

You are correct sir. I have to get the replacement console for $220 and the handlebars for $80 so I'll have a cool $300 invested. It looks like the proper way to go. I cannot take pictures of the ECI risers now as I have it all boxed up ready to return. I'm not going to pay $240 for a riser set and start grinding on them. You cannot swap left to right because they have a recessed area for the new bar to fit into. LOL.... I wished there was somebody around here that has done this ***** to help me out. You're probably the closest one too

I'm turning into a picky fawker I do appreciate all the help here tho

[ARCTIC]

I looked at the helibars riser but it's more money yet AND the way that they push the bars back changes the arc of the handlebar swing. Ever ridden a John Deere JDX snowmobile? It looks like it will make the bars swing in a left-to-right fashion rather than a true turn???? And that swing would also be counter productive in my quest to get the bars out of the windshield

[ARCTIC]

They all do it (unless you have the block-type riser). I suspect you haven't read your manual. Turn the handlebars to full lock to either side, then turn the key counterclockwise without pressing it down. You may have to wiggle the bars a bit for the dog to drop in the hole.

My dealer is supposed to be sending me an owners manual and I'm too lazy to read it online. Thanks for the info though.

[Bob Denman]

I'm turning into a picky fawker I do appreciate all the help here tho

Everybody here is more than willing to jump in and try to help!

It's how we ALL learn..
(Except for Scotty... he musta been BORN with it! )

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Some people here have purchased "rusty riders" for $30..they are dog bone style...and they have used them with SM-5 spyders..that have clutch resevoirs on the left side....you don't because you have an SE....but you do have one on the right because you have the ISCI hand brake....I can't wrap my mind around the windshield problem you have because long ago I replaced the oem with a touring windshield that is attached to the handlebars so it turns and causes no interference...I think the "rusty riders" could work for you. It's possible to put spacers in the the top to bolts of the oem windshield to change the angle slightly or trim it slightly or even remove it...it's useless for blocking the wind it's so small ...try that and see how much difference there is....if you have the BRP 1 inch and add the "rusty rider" 4 inch it will still work...you can trim 1 inch from each side of the center alum. section and gain 2 inches of extra slack without any problems...I did it about 750 miles ago and can't tell the difference in the handling...the thread you want to look at is in the 4 SALE BY OWNER & WTB ...WANTED R/S G/S HANDLE BAR RISER read all the posts ....it also has the info on where to buy the risers.....If the ISCI handbrake doesn't hit the windshield on the oem handlebars...Why does it hit with the risers on if the risers are pulled back......And without pictures we are working TOTALLY BLIND you maybe looking at your stuff thinking why can't they picture this......BUT WE CAN'T......mike....