New Tire

[NancysToy]

I had to put a rear tire on the RTS today. I got 14K out of the first one. A little more wear in the center, but I do a fair amount of freeway, so that was not surprising. I know a number of owners have been disappointed with the tire wear on the Kenda and the cost, but this Kenda went 2-3 times as far as the rear tire does on my BMW, and the Kenda costs less than the much smaller bike tire. I can't argue with that. I went with another Kenda, in case you wonder. Dealer couldn't mount it, so I had to search around. Finally found a local bike shop with a fancy new changer and a balancer with the right mandrels to fit the bearings and a long enough shaft to do a car-width tire. Thanks to Lamont on the tip for using the axle to align the crush sleeve. I did have to show the mechanic the raised bearing bosses, so it would align properly. The tire is back on, but I need some rear brake pads before I button things up the rest of the way. I don't want to wait for them, so I'll go with the Gen 3 if I can find some in stock locally. These didn't give me any trouble. I was able to remove the tire without removing the rear fender or muffler. It is tricky, but doable. If you remove your own tire, remember to disconnect the ACS sensor link before you jack up the Spyder...especially if you disconnect the rear shock. It is easy to damage the sensor or the plastic link, otherwise.

[boborgera]

On the Kenda, I got over 17 thousand miles on it, So i went with the Kenda again, 130$ installed by the dealer, I never had tires last more than 4 to 6 thousand miles on any of my two wheelers. Also used the Gen 3 pads they worked great! [got rid of the squeal]

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yes Scotty that is good, but I expect my Falken to get 10 times the mileage I got from my Wing.....Mike....

[Hobstopper]

Mileage is not the reason why I switched to a passenger tire, as I have posted before the single biggest improvement with handling that I have made was when I changed from the Kenda to a passenger tire. When I would come up on a tractor trailer on the interstate I would get a lot of wiggle from the Spyder and in/out sway going around curves. When I changed to the passenger tire the wiggle was reduced significantly and the rear end dip when going over bumps or dips in the road. At Spyderfest I had a set of Elkas put on my Spyder and it did improve the smoothness of the road, but unlike some I definitely would not say that it was like having a new bike. I have a 2010 RT-S and had put on the 2011 shocks prior to putting on the Elkas, so I have went through a progression of changes on the Spyder, passenger tire on the rear then 2011 shocks then Elkas. My sentiments are echoed by the wife being a passenger on the back of the bike and rider. The other thing of course that most of us see on our 2010s (I can't speak for the later model year Spyders) is the in/out going around curves with our Spyders. As said above with the progression of changes that I have made the tire being the first change that was made and the cheapest by far gave me the biggest change and eliminated the in/out, the 2011 shocks help to reduce the front end dive, and the elkas all but eliminated the front end dive.
I appreciate what you feel, but if you never try other options then how do you know what positives or negatives are gained or loss by changing the OEM tire? I have owned my fare share of cars in my life time and have never kept the same tire on my car that it came with from the manufacturer. I know that others have changed their rear tire to a passenger tire and are getting better mileage out of them, even if I did not gain any additional mileage with the passenger tire compared to the OEM tire, I am still paying less money so I don't know how that could be the wrong choice?

Order of changes in 33,000 miles:
2010 shocks changed from 3 to 5
Rear tire changed from OEM to passenger tire
2011 shocks installed and settled at 4
Elkas installed at Spyderfest 3

The next change that I will probably make is changing the front tires from OEM to passenger tires. Here is what I have found or experienced to this point concerning them. As others have reported the front end can develop a wobble in the front end at a particular speed and changing the front tires to a new set of OEM tires have helped to eliminate front end wobble, which I have experienced. The problem comes later as the tires wear in that the wobble comes and goes or changes the speed range that it occurs at. If you watch the front tires while going down the road (please be careful if you do so), you can see the tire going in and out. I am meticulous about my maintenance and torque the wheels to 77 ft lbs and re-torque by loosening and re-tightening to the desire torque rating to help to reduce it. The second thing that I have experienced is during a curve, this is with all changes mentioned above with suspension components, as I enter or continue in a curve the front tires tend to give to much or weaken as the curve is maintained. I truly feel that this will be improved when going from a softer sidewall tire to a firmer sidewall tire.

I do ride the Spyder hard going around curves, but I feel that being it is modeled per say after the 4-wheeled open air Spyders of yesteryear that is exactly what it should be able to handle! I love my Spyder, but like with any vehicle or bike I have owned I want it to be the best it can be. I have a philosophy that what ever vehicle I buy I am going to treat it like what it is made to do (eg. sports car like a sports car, truck like a truck, luxury vehicle like a luxury vehicle).

I hope that I have not rambled, but I for some reason I felt like putting it out there.

[GadgetGuy442]

I got my rear tire replaced at 19,000 miles (was just getting to the wear bars), and went with the OEM tire... no complaint from me about that!

Fronts still have life... not near wear bars... no unbalanced wear... again have no complaints and will likely go with the OEM tire when it is time for new front tires.

Bill

[dick574]

Mileage is not the reason why I switched to a passenger tire, as I have posted before the single biggest improvement with handling that I have made was when I changed from the Kenda to a passenger tire. When I would come up on a tractor trailer on the interstate I would get a lot of wiggle from the Spyder and in/out sway going around curves. When I changed to the passenger tire the wiggle was reduced significantly and the rear end dip when going over bumps or dips in the road. At Spyderfest I had a set of Elkas put on my Spyder and it did improve the smoothness of the road, but unlike some I definitely would not say that it was like having a new bike. I have a 2010 RT-S and had put on the 2011 shocks prior to putting on the Elkas, so I have went through a progression of changes on the Spyder, passenger tire on the rear then 2011 shocks then Elkas. My sentiments are echoed by the wife being a passenger on the back of the bike and rider. The other thing of course that most of us see on our 2010s (I can't speak for the later model year Spyders) is the in/out going around curves with our Spyders. As said above with the progression of changes that I have made the tire being the first change that was made and the cheapest by far gave me the biggest change and eliminated the in/out, the 2011 shocks help to reduce the front end dive, and the elkas all but eliminated the front end dive.
I appreciate what you feel, but if you never try other options then how do you know what positives or negatives are gained or loss by changing the OEM tire? I have owned my fare share of cars in my life time and have never kept the same tire on my car that it came with from the manufacturer. I know that others have changed their rear tire to a passenger tire and are getting better mileage out of them, even if I did not gain any additional mileage with the passenger tire compared to the OEM tire, I am still paying less money so I don't know how that could be the wrong choice?

Order of changes in 33,000 miles:
2010 shocks changed from 3 to 5
Rear tire changed from OEM to passenger tire
2011 shocks installed and settled at 4
Elkas installed at Spyderfest 3

The next change that I will probably make is changing the front tires from OEM to passenger tires. Here is what I have found or experienced to this point concerning them. As others have reported the front end can develop a wobble in the front end at a particular speed and changing the front tires to a new set of OEM tires have helped to eliminate front end wobble, which I have experienced. The problem comes later as the tires wear in that the wobble comes and goes or changes the speed range that it occurs at. If you watch the front tires while going down the road (please be careful if you do so), you can see the tire going in and out. I am meticulous about my maintenance and torque the wheels to 77 ft lbs and re-torque by loosening and re-tightening to the desire torque rating to help to reduce it. The second thing that I have experienced is during a curve, this is with all changes mentioned above with suspension components, as I enter or continue in a curve the front tires tend to give to much or weaken as the curve is maintained. I truly feel that this will be improved when going from a softer sidewall tire to a firmer sidewall tire.

I do ride the Spyder hard going around curves, but I feel that being it is modeled per say after the 4-wheeled open air Spyders of yesteryear that is exactly what it should be able to handle! I love my Spyder, but like with any vehicle or bike I have owned I want it to be the best it can be. I have a philosophy that what ever vehicle I buy I am going to treat it like what it is made to do (eg. sports car like a sports car, truck like a truck, luxury vehicle like a luxury vehicle).

I hope that I have not rambled, but I for some reason I felt like putting it out there.

I'm starting to see wear bars at 6000 mi. What passenger tire (brand & size) did you go with?

Dick574

[NancysToy]

I have no problem with owners choosing an alternate (automotive) tire if they wish to do so. Mileage is not the only consideration, however. Wet and dry traction, traction changes with temperature, tendency to hydroplane (ability to shed water), and speed ratings should all be taken into account. The OEM tire has a good balance of these properties, and does an acceptable job. If you find another tire that meets or exceeds the Kenda in all these areas, there is no reason not to use it. Please be careful in your choice...most tires trade off one property for another, like sacrificing dry traction for higher mileage. In the meanwhile, I am perfectly happy. This is not a contest, just a statement of what worked for me.

[Bob Denman]

I managed to wear out the center tread section of the OEM Kenda in 7000 miles. Tire pressures were kept at 28psi... I switched to the Falken 912 only because I felt that the Kenda may have been not sturdy enough and was deforming under the rotational forces being exerted upon it.
Time will tell if this was the right decision to make, but so far, so good with the Falken!

Besides; Now I get to say that I've got to go check the pressure in that "Falken" tire!

[r1100rider]

I have no problem with owners choosing an alternate (automotive) tire if they wish to do so. Mileage is not the only considerations, however. Wet and dry traction, traction changes with temperature, tendency to hydroplane (ability to shed water), and speed ratings should all be taken into account. The OEM tire has a good balance of these properties, and does an acceptable job. If you find another tire that meets or exceeds the Kenda in all these areas, there is no reason not to use it. Please be careful in your choice...most tires trade off one property for another, like sacrificing dry traction for higher mileage. In the meanwhile, I am perfectly happy. This is not a contest, just a statement of what worked for me.

I'm glad Scotty is here to advise everyone to keep safe I've changed to car tires on 2 spyders now there are ratings on tires so you can be sure of what you will get for wet traction and wear,the rear wasn't that. noticeable but the fronts WOW huge improvement nite and day plus at double the miles as the OEM 's no wear at all the manufactures high line car's included put the cheapest thing they can get them out the door with

[Sarge707]

On the Kenda, I got over 17 thousand miles on it, So i went with the Kenda again, 130$ installed by the dealer, I never had tires last more than 4 to 6 thousand miles on any of my two wheelers. Also used the Gen 3 pads they worked great! [got rid of the squeal]

My Kenda got 18,000 and wouldn,t ya know-- The rear bearings needed replacement at the same time. So next new rear will also include new bearings just to be on the safe side. Better over prepared THAN stuck on the roadside waiting for Tow?

[Bob Denman]

While it's up in the air anyway, changing out the bearings at the same time is a great way to avoid an untimely stop...

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

My change to the Falken was not mileage related even tho my first post on this thread was about that....My main reason for the switch was because the Falken has a load capacity almost THREE X that of the Kenda ....tell me that's not a better tire for that reason alone....and there are others......Mike.....

[Bob Denman]

Are you sayin' that I'm fat?? (ZE912)
Anyway; fat people are perceived as being jolly...

[NancysToy]

My change to the Falken was not mileage related even tho my first post on this thread was about that....My main reason for the switch was because the Falken has a load capacity almost THREE X that of the Kenda ....tell me that's not a better tire for that reason alone....and there are others......Mike.....

Following that reasoning, we should all be putting truck tires on our Mini-Coopers. If you have need for an increased load rating, by all means do it, but it is not a compelling argument for choosing a Spyder tire. JMHO

[Buttsy]

My main reason for the switch was because the Falken has a load capacity almost THREE X that of the Kenda

Mike whats the load rating on a solid rubber tire say off a fork lift.........might be even better yet!!!

[boborgera]

I'm starting to see wear bars at 6000 mi. What passenger tire (brand & size) did you go with?

Dick574

Are you sure your looking at the wear bars, And not the water blockers.?
Many owens early on make that mistake.

[NancysToy]

Are you sure your looking at the wear bars, And not the water blockers.?
Many owens early on make that mistake.

Good advice. The wear bars are the lower ones, marked by tiny triangles on the sidewall at the base of the tread.

[flybuddy]

Will the Can Am dealers put on non-OEM tires?? If not, where do you get it done?

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Www

[NancysToy]

Will the Can Am dealers put on non-OEM tires?? If not, where do you get it done?

Some Can-Am dealers can not even install the OEM tires. Check with your dealer up front to find out just what they can and cannot, and will and will not, do.

[thehawk]

I have read these types of discussions for almost a year. And I've avoided entering into them for fear my comments would be misconstrued on a spectrum from egotistical to just being a smart-alec. But here, in a nutshell, is my opinion: I trust the engineers who chose the design parameters and operational characteristics of my Spyder ... and the materials used in its construction. When I turn the key and drive away, I want to know that I have done nothing that alters that design or changes those characteristics in such a way that I have to compensate for any decisions, choices or trade-offs they made when the inevitable crisis occurs.

Botton line ... I will stay with OEM parts and supplies for things which fall within those categories.

thehawk

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Scotty, the post you are quoting is not POSTED it was removed, apparently not before you saw it and for that I apologize. Regular/ordinary passenger car tires are not Race tires and I do not recommend them for street use and have never suggested it nor have I ever suggested using solid rubber tires that would be really really stupid and to even suggest using them says a great deal about the "suggestor".....I am not trying to stick my finger in anyone's eye.....But face facts there are many many people here who are using car tires instead of the Kenda's, are they/we all STUPID,....If you really believe BRP is using Kenda tires because they are the best tire made ...well good luck with that one........

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Mr. Hawk, the genius engineers who designed the Spyder put the rear tire valve on the left side of the wheel where it is pretty much inaccessible, or in the very least difficult to use...So since you appear to be sooooo happy with their work, could you give me a good or reasonable reason why they didn't put it on the other ( right ) side of the wheel...I anxiously await you're answer on this....Mike..

[NancysToy]

If you really believe BRP is using Kenda tires because they are the best tire made ...well good luck with that one........

I certainly have not said anything even remotely resembling that. My post was made to indicate that I felt that the Kenda tire was adequate for my needs, and had provided satisfactory life. I also posted that there are other choices, but that they must be carefully made. Some people have substituted car tires with a much lower speed rating, for instance, which is not a good idea. The tire must fit the needs of the vehicle and its capabilities and use. The Kenda does so, as do others. Fork lift tires would not be good. An LT tire with a high load rating wouldn't, either, nor a snow tire, race tire, etc, etc. All tire choices off the race track are compromises. Our choices are made based on our needs, balancing the various characteristics as we see fit. You should not have a problem with anyone who chooses the Kenda, anymore that we should have a problem with your particular choice. I'm not sure why you feel so strongly about this subject, but it is obvious you do. Different strokes for different folks...ease up a bit and we will all benefit from the exchange of ideas.

[Sarge707]

I have read these types of discussions for almost a year. And I've avoided entering into them for fear my comments would be misconstrued on a spectrum from egotistical to just being a smart-alec. But here, in a nutshell, is my opinion: I trust the engineers who chose the design parameters and operational characteristics of my Spyder ... and the materials used in its construction. When I turn the key and drive away, I want to know that I have done nothing that alters that design or changes those characteristics in such a way that I have to compensate for any decisions, choices or trade-offs they made when the inevitable crisis occurs.

Botton line ... I will stay with OEM parts and supplies for things which fall within those categories.

thehawk

100% With the tires because it Could have imput into the Bosch Systems and I won,t take that chance because I feel I drive aggresively. Now OIL is another can of Worms?