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This is what you have to work with after your wheel and fender have been removed. At this point you should have removed your reflective sticker on the back of the fender. I used the nylon bone mentioned in part 1 to help pry it off. Clean the residual gunk off with your favorite gum remover. Follow the directions and drill a 3/8" in the fender where the wire will pass through. There are weep holes for water to run through on this top brace. 4 of them are on the inboard side. This is a step that a helper or a box about the same height of the axle will come in handy.
Lay the fend with the LED mud flap installed on a box or have a friend/wife hold it while you run the wire through 4 zip ties loosely hooked through the inboard weep/drain holes. You will tighten up the ties and cut off the excess, once you get the wire in place and the fender is back on.
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Ideally, you'll want to jack the whole bike or at least the front in order to do both sides at the same time. The kit only has one packet of 3M Adhesive Promoter. Have both fenders off and on a non scratch surface so that you can get the reflective tape off. Once off, drill the hole for the wire, clean the area and use the promoter on both fenders before the promoter dries.
NOTE: I'm using a cheap Harbor Freight ATV/ motorcycle jack lift. Lyonsden has a coupon code to save $40 on this jack. It cost me only $60 delivered.
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More to follow...