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Sounds good, but does has anyone seen where can it be pruchased in Florida?
I am using Mobile 1 now in my RT and it has the correct API Service SL.
Purchased at Wal-Mart for $28.00 5 Qt container 10-W-40.
Thanks for the update. C-YA RL
Last edited by InspectorGadget; 03-04-2011 at 01:15 PM.
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At least one member here has had a clutch failure as a result of using this new formulation. That puzzles me, and may be coincidence, but until I see more evidence that this oil works, it is off my preferred list. Please also keep in mind that this oil is marked with an API SM rating, which is expressly prohibited by BRP. Any oil-related failure when using this oil, would likely not be warrantied. Use at your own risk.
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It was me that had the clutch fail. My mechanic was very positive it was the oil, Mobil 1 4t motorcycle oil. I was very lucky they warranted the failure but was told not a second time. Staying with BRP from now on. I know there are other brands but I just dont want to pay in excess of $500.00 for a replacement clutch.
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Is this oil ok to use???
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50
willy
When the going gets tough...Downshift..
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Originally Posted by billythekidd
Is this oil ok to use???
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50
willy
Not in my opinion! BRP specifies a full synthetic or synthetic blend with a viscosity of 5W-40. While 10W-40 shouldn't pose problems, 20W-50 is too heavy, IMO.
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Originally Posted by NancysToy
Not in my opinion! BRP specifies a full synthetic or synthetic blend with a viscosity of 5W-40. While 10W-40 shouldn't pose problems, 20W-50 is too heavy, IMO.
My question is: what would you suggest as an alternative to the BRP oil?
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Very Active Member
oil and warranty
I understand the warranty restrictions but my question is. If I change the oil and filters myself based on mileage and I use oil that meets the BRP specs but not BRP oil and there is a clutch failure. 1. How would they know which oil was used? 2. Suppose that I use a oil of higher viscosity and have a failure, how would they know ?
In theory I could use any brand/viscosity when I change and if there was a problem it would be simple to then put in the BRP oil and say that is what I always use.
I do keep my receipts for filters and oil purchases just in case but without chemical analysis it would be very difficult to prove that you used the "wrong" oil.
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"I do keep my receipts for filters and oil purchases just in case but without chemical analysis it would be very difficult to prove that you used the "wrong" oil."
Difficult to prove suggests law suit. Law suit means lawyers. Lawyers mean $$$$. The scenario is that they say you didn't use the right oil. You say you did. Guess what? "We got a problem Houston". Get your wallet out.
Chris PE# 0004
Last edited by MouthPiece; 03-04-2011 at 08:28 PM.
Reason: Not sure what I did is allowed
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Mobile 1 4T 10 w 40 motorcycle oil
Originally Posted by NancysToy
At least one member here has had a clutch failure as a result of using this new formulation. That puzzles me, and may be coincidence, but until I see more evidence that this oil works, it is off my preferred list. Please also keep in mind that this oil is marked with an API SM rating, which is expressly prohibited by BRP. Any oil-related failure when using this oil, would likely not be warrantied. Use at your own risk.
I seriously doubt that if he was indeed was using Mobile 1 4t motorcycle oil and not Mobil auto oil he would have had any problems, I have used the
4T in all my wet clutch bikes for years and used it in my 2008 GS sm5 exclusively for 2 yrs. with no problems and now in my 2010 RT-S SM5, I swear by this oil, Someone on here said he bought Gallon or 5 qt container
for 28.00 I have only seen the 4T motorcycle oil in Quart bottles @ 9.00 ea. he better use that reg Mobile 1 oil in his Auto not Spyder
Freebob...
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Originally Posted by MMcc
I understand the warranty restrictions but my question is. If I change the oil and filters myself based on mileage and I use oil that meets the BRP specs but not BRP oil and there is a clutch failure. 1. How would they know which oil was used? 2. Suppose that I use a oil of higher viscosity and have a failure, how would they know ?
In theory I could use any brand/viscosity when I change and if there was a problem it would be simple to then put in the BRP oil and say that is what I always use.
I do keep my receipts for filters and oil purchases just in case but without chemical analysis it would be very difficult to prove that you used the "wrong" oil.
Your receipt should show the type of oil, in this computer age. At any rate, the burden of proof would be on you, if you did your own service, to show that the oil used met the specs, and was changed in a timely fashion. In reality, it would, indeed, take chemical tests for positive proof, but it is your receipts and records that they would look at...and question. Like I said, use at your own risk.
Originally Posted by freebob
I seriously doubt that if he was indeed was using Mobile 1 4t motorcycle oil and not Mobil auto oil he would have had any problems, I have used the
4T in all my wet clutch bikes for years and used it in my 2008 GS sm5 exclusively for 2 yrs. with no problems and now in my 2010 RT-S SM5, I swear by this oil, Someone on here said he bought Gallon or 5 qt container
for 28.00 I have only seen the 4T motorcycle oil in Quart bottles @ 9.00 ea. he better use that reg Mobile 1 oil in his Auto not Spyder
Freebob...
I have used the old Mobil1 4T formulation. It worked just fine with wet clutches. With a JASO MA rating, the new stuff should, too. The API SM rating remains a mystery, however. An oil meeting JASO MA should not meet API SM standards, and vice versa...at least that has never been able to be done before. Unfortunately, we have little user data on this new oil in a Spyder. What we have shows problems. That is good enough for me to avoid using it in a Spyder until there is some experience with the new stuff.
I am beginning to wonder if the difference lies in the peculiarities of the Spyder clutch. Yes, it is a wet clutch, but it is not conventional. Dry sump engines usually do not have wet clutches...at least not the old stuff I am used to, or my BMWs. The SE5s have shown some sensitivity of the clutch and shifting mechanism to low oil levels. This is not typical, and it may have to do with the fact that the Spyder clutch does not ride in a full sump oil bath, but in a smaller amount of trapped oil, with an additional pressure feed. Just speculating wildly, but the added stresses from this arrangement might make the properties of the oil more critical. I am a mechanic, not an oil scientist, so I am just guessing here. In reality, who knows?
At any rate, I prefer to use an oil that meets the BRP specs, and change it at specified intervals, to assure that my warranty remains intact. Others will havbe to make their own choices.
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I changed my oil last summer and put in the Mobil 4T and notice that my clutch was slipping, today I drained it all out and replaced it with Motul 300V 4T racing oil. Later today I will ride and see how it is, just hope I did not damage the clutch with the Mobil oil in it.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by billythekidd
Is this oil ok to use???
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50
willy
When I had issues using Rotella on the way to Sturgis I replaced it with that oil and it worked fine and saved my clutch. I'm still running that clutch and didn't have to change it out like I thought I would. I have 50K on the Spyder now and I think that was at 20K or so if I remember right.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...hlight=rotella
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by MMcc
I understand the warranty restrictions but my question is. If I change the oil and filters myself based on mileage and I use oil that meets the BRP specs but not BRP oil and there is a clutch failure. 1. How would they know which oil was used? 2. Suppose that I use a oil of higher viscosity and have a failure, how would they know ?
In theory I could use any brand/viscosity when I change and if there was a problem it would be simple to then put in the BRP oil and say that is what I always use.
I do keep my receipts for filters and oil purchases just in case but without chemical analysis it would be very difficult to prove that you used the "wrong" oil.
A clutch is a "wear item" and BRP has no obligation to repair or replace it especially if it was burnt because of slippage.
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Has anyone used royal purple motorcycle oil i just bought 10 w 40 for my next oil change. I have an SE5 and don't want to ruin the clutch?
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Originally Posted by sandrunr1
It was me that had the clutch fail. My mechanic was very positive it was the oil, Mobil 1 4t motorcycle oil. I was very lucky they warranted the failure but was told not a second time. Staying with BRP from now on. I know there are other brands but I just dont want to pay in excess of $500.00 for a replacement clutch.
1 question...how hard do you ride? A clutch failure could be due to a faulty component (my bet since they fixed it), abusing it "I ride it like I stole it" or wrong oil.
As has been pointed out the clutch is a wear item and as such its service life will vary greatly depending on use. I just find it hard to believe that Mobil would screw their bike oil up that bad
RAL
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Simply put, if it has an SM rating, do not use it. There are plenty of other full syn oils out there within BRP specs.
I used Royal Purple 10/40 in our old RS. It ran flawlessly. Am also planning on using it in our new RT after the 600 mi service. I also like the price, about 8 bucks a qt.
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Very Active Member
As I have posted before, I ran RP 10W40 from 5000 miles to 43,000 miles on our 2008 SE5 without any issues. When I traded the SE5 on our 2010 RT, the transmission was having intermittent slippage at the start. The mechanic said the result was worn out springs...nothing to do with the oil. The SE5 was one of the first SE5 transmissions. I have no proof, but I think that I put more miles than anyone on a 2008 SE5. The mechanic also said that the valves did not need adjusting. They had never been checked before! Yes, I am a firm believer in RP. If anyone has any questions about the oil, call RP and ask any question you may have. I did.
2008 GS SE5 in 2008
Traded at 43,000 miles for a left over
2010 RT SM5 in 2011
Traded at 57,000 for a left over
2014 RTS SE6 in 2015, which has 35,000 miles
Oct 19th, 2017, totaled 2014 RT while killing a Javaline
Dec 12th, 2017 drove a 2017 F3L home. What an awesome machine!
Never had any breakdown stranded issues.
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Very Active Member
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FWIW, Valvoline 4T full synthetic 10W-40 motorcycle oil might be a good alternative to the Mobil 1 SM service grade since the Valvoline is Jaso MA2 (also SJ/SG/SF) rated but not SM. On the label it states "Superior Wet Clutch Protection." In this area it's widely available (Walmart, Auto Zone) and $1 per quart cheaper than Mobil 1 4T.
I am perplexed at Mobil 1 4T being both Jaso and SM rated which seems contradictory.
Mike
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Originally Posted by liketoride2
FWIW, Valvoline 4T full synthetic 10W-40 motorcycle oil might be a good alternative to the Mobil 1 SM service grade since the Valvoline is Jaso MA2 (also SJ/SG/SF) rated but not SM. On the label it states "Superior Wet Clutch Protection." In this area it's widely available (Walmart, Auto Zone) and $1 per quart cheaper than Mobil 1 4T.
I am perplexed at Mobil 1 4T being both Jaso and SM rated which seems contradictory.
Mike
To the best of my knowledge and research, Valvoline does not market a full synthetic motorcycle oil..I have been using their dino oil for years, but it does not meet the Spyder specs.
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API SG, SH/CF JASO MA MOBIL RACING 4T 10W-40 FULLY SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE OIL 3-WAY PROTECTION ENGINE,TRANSMISSION,WET CLUTCH PRIMARY. This is what it says on the bottle and it meets all specs for BRP there should not be any issues as far as i know. I was going to take pictures of the bottle but i have to leave for awhile i have no issues with using this oil so far.
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Originally Posted by Roger
API SG, SH/CF JASO MA MOBIL RACING 4T 10W-40 FULLY SYNTHETIC MOTORCYCLE OIL 3-WAY PROTECTION ENGINE,TRANSMISSION,WET CLUTCH PRIMARY. This is what it says on the bottle and it meets all specs for BRP there should not be any issues as far as i know. I was going to take pictures of the bottle but i have to leave for awhile i have no issues with using this oil so far.
The old bottles are labeled this way...the new bottles are labeled API SM. Supposedly the same oil, but there are some incidents that call that into question.
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