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2 wheel or 4 wheel trailer to haul spyder
have been looking for a hauling trailer. need some advice on what everyone is using. 2 wheels or 4wheels how big etc? thanks JIM
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Jim, you saw mine from KingAmerica in GA and i love how it works out for me.
I use it as my garage as well as a hauler on trips. Cost was roughly $3k for dual axle with brakes and roof vent. For very little extra cost of dual axle compared to single, you get a lot of piece of mind. Do you want to lose your $30k Spyder if 1 tire fails or would you rather notice that 1 tire gone flat or gone out when you inspect your trailer periodically? On a single axle there is no room for error in a blowout situation whereas with a dual axle you still have 3 wheels saving your shiny new Spyder from a lot of fish tailing grief. Better safe than sorry.....my opinion
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Originally Posted by Recon
Jim, you saw mine from KingAmerica in GA and i love how it works out for me.
I use it as my garage as well as a hauler on trips. Cost was roughly $3k for dual axle with brakes and roof vent. For very little extra cost of dual axle compared to single, you get a lot of piece of mind. Do you want to lose your $30k Spyder if 1 tire fails or would you rather notice that 1 tire gone flat or gone out when you inspect your trailer periodically? On a single axle there is no room for error in a blowout situation whereas with a dual axle you still have 3 wheels saving your shiny new Spyder from a lot of fish tailing grief. Better safe than sorry.....my opinion
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I use a 2-wheel trailer...all aluminum. Much lighter, and I can haul the loaded trailer more safely with my F-150. We have an R&R 7x12 V-nose. I did add electric brakes, which are not standard with the 2-wheel trailer.
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Senile Member
I think single axle is more than enough since Spyder does not have enough weight to warrent spending the money for a dual axle. The name of the game is to get your ride to somewhere you wanna ride, not how much you can spend on a trailer hauling it. I got lucky, 4 days before I bought my Spyder from a private party, I spotted a 6x10 on the Craigslist for $500. It was a home made one built by the owner who happens to be a welder himself. It was built like a brick house with 14" tires. Heavy duty and good enough to put my Miata on it with ease. I got lucky all the way around on that Spyder deal to say the least.
Bottom line is that the less you put in towards your hauler, the more you can put on your ride.
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Very Active Member
I think the more important question to ask is the size of the wheels/tires. Smaller wheels/tires have to turn faster and build up more heat, which is a very common cause of flats on trailers. I would be concerned about having a full size (auto size)wheel and tire, not about the number of axles. The Spyder weighs in at less than 1,000 pounds. I used to pull a bass boat on a single axle trailer, and it must have weighed around 2,500#. But it had full size wheels (14-15"?) and I never had a problem.
The other important thing to remember when trailering is to check the wheel bearings and keep them lubed.
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Originally Posted by dancogan
I think the more important question to ask is the size of the wheels/tires. Smaller wheels/tires have to turn faster and build up more heat, which is a very common cause of flats on trailers. I would be concerned about having a full size (auto size)wheel and tire, not about the number of axles. The Spyder weighs in at less than 1,000 pounds. I used to pull a bass boat on a single axle trailer, and it must have weighed around 2,500#. But it had full size wheels (14-15"?) and I never had a problem.
The other important thing to remember when trailering is to check the wheel bearings and keep them lubed.
I agree 100% ,The only thing i would add is to carry a spare tire and a jack.
There is nothing worst than leaving a trailer on the side of the road while looking for a place to fix your tire.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by boborgera
...The only thing i would add is to carry a spare tire and a jack.
There is nothing worst than leaving a trailer on the side of the road while looking for a place to fix your tire.
+1
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This is what I have ( AST3 ) and I think it's great.
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Originally Posted by burg650
This is what I have ( AST3 ) and I think it's great.
I totally agree.....
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Originally Posted by MouthPiece
This is what I have.
dose the nose of the spyder hit the ramp when loading?
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Originally Posted by M2Wild
I think single axle is more than enough since Spyder does not have enough weight to warrent spending the money for a dual axle. The name of the game is to get your ride to somewhere you wanna ride, not how much you can spend on a trailer hauling it. I got lucky, 4 days before I bought my Spyder from a private party, I spotted a 6x10 on the Craigslist for $500. It was a home made one built by the owner who happens to be a welder himself. It was built like a brick house with 14" tires. Heavy duty and good enough to put my Miata on it with ease. I got lucky all the way around on that Spyder deal to say the least.
Bottom line is that the less you put in towards your hauler, the more you can put on your ride.
I would caution you on how much weight you place on that trailer. Two of the factors to determine gross trailer weight limitations have to do with wheel size and number of axles. My Wells Cargo CycleWagon has 15" wheels and two axles. It is rated for 7000 pounds. That would be a rating of 3500 pounds per axle with 15" wheels. All things being standard, 14" wheels would have a lower rating than 15" wheels, and one axle would have a lower rating than two. Placing a car on that trailer most likely made a gross trailer weight well in excess of what it should have.
Maximum weight ratings on trailer tires is also critical.
Good luck
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Originally Posted by burg650
This is what I have ( AST3 ) and I think it's great.
Where did you get it and what did it cost?
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Originally Posted by richie
dose the nose of the spyder hit the ramp when loading?
It sure does NOT, Richie. I had two jacks (for lack of a better term) installed at the front end of the trailer to raise the front end. I'm not sure if the picture went through when I posted, but if it did, you'll see two hand cranks on each side that are used to jack the front end up. That will make the trailer gate angle accomodate loading the spyder. Truth be known I've only had to use those jacks on a couple of ocassions. Usually it loads without having to use those.
Chris PE# 0004
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2 wheel or 4 wheel trailer to haul spyder
We have a 2 wheel trailer to haul our Rt-S and it does fine. My son uses the trailer to carry his ZRX 1200R and SV 650 to Ridesmart track days.
Regards,
Reese
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I use a 6 x 12 "TILT" utility trailer. At my request, the bed was made of expanded metal vs. wood and I don't have a rear ramp or rack, it's lighter this way. It was manufactured for me by Anderson Trailers in Ga. http://andersontrailers.com/ I've had it for over a year and I've towed my to several events in different states, hundreds of miles away. The tilt capability makes it very easy to load, and I don't have to have a ramp, or ramps with it, (so there is less air drag) just strap the bike down. I am very happy with it. I will load pictures if I can figure out how to do it.
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I forgot, it's single axle, 15" wheels. It pulls very, very effortlessly with my Ford Edge.
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by CaptRalph
I use a 6 x 12 "TILT" utility trailer. At my request, the bed was made of expanded metal vs. wood and I don't have a rear ramp or rack, it's lighter this way. It was manufactured for me by Anderson Trailers in Ga. http://andersontrailers.com/ I've had it for over a year and I've towed my to several events in different states, hundreds of miles away. The tilt capability makes it very easy to load, and I don't have to have a ramp, or ramps with it, (so there is less air drag) just strap the bike down. I am very happy with it. I will load pictures if I can figure out how to do it.
You can send me pics e-mail (rmjp2@comcast.net) BTW We are comming down your way Jan 2012 to Homosassa. Maybe stop by to see it.
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Originally Posted by MouthPiece
It sure does NOT, Richie. I had two jacks (for lack of a better term) installed at the front end of the trailer to raise the front end. I'm not sure if the picture went through when I posted, but if it did, you'll see two hand cranks on each side that are used to jack the front end up. That will make the trailer gate angle accomodate loading the spyder. Truth be known I've only had to use those jacks on a couple of ocassions. Usually it loads without having to use those.
Chris PE# 0004
My spyder,s nose hits the gate almost right away.How high do the jacks lift the front up,and how do you jack it when hooked to car trailer hitch?,are jacks made special or can I buy a set? Like to see pic with trailer jacked up.
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Originally Posted by richie
My spyder,s nose hits the gate almost right away.How high do the jacks lift the front up,and how do you jack it when hooked to car trailer hitch?,are jacks made special or can I buy a set? Like to see pic with trailer jacked up.
Here's what I'd suggest for a temporary solution. I'll answer your question later. Get you a 2 X 4 or 2 X 6 the length of which is as long as the width of your trailer gate. Place it under the gate to raise it up, and see if that solves your problem.
I found that you can crank your trailer jack up while attached to the car. All you need is an inch or two. As for the jacks that I have on my trailer (the two that I talked about), they were installed or welded on to my trailer when it was built.
Hope this helps.
Chris
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