RT trunk will NOT latch

[draboo]

I tried slamming it till my wrist hurt. I checked the release manually and it works fine. More slamming, pressing/slamming/pressing/checking ad nauseam.

My wife found a button along side the latch that is supposed to be pushed down by a little extended piece of the "hood". Would this button not being pressed by the small extended thingy prevent the hood from latching?

Anyone else run into this problem? Of course, our dealer is not open till Tuesday.

Thanks,eh?

[Dudley]

When we left the dealer Wednesday with our RT, the right saddlebag popped open! Turned back to the dealer. The release cable was too tight. Tech loosened it and all is well. The trunk is also a bit tight. Try closing it about 4 inches from close. The air trapped in the trunk causes it to be hard to latch. Jennifer is an expert on that. I am still learning. Will get the tech to look at it this week.

[MouthPiece]

Up until recently, I would close the "frunk" (front trunk) by allowing it to rest gently in position and then lightly push it shut. About two weeks ago even this did not work. It just would not latch shut. Took it to the dealer and he used a tool that looked similar to a short crow bar and pried the latch assembly a bit. That solved the problem. I now, again, gently push it down to latch.

Chris PE # 0004

[NancysToy]

Could be latch adjustment, a loose latch, or cable adjustment. It could also be the trunk gasket pulled loose, especially if you have a trunk liner. The protruding gasket will stick up far enough to prevent the trunk from latching.

[BikerDoc]

I had exactly the same problem for six months. The first dealer told me there was no adjustment to fix it on the RT Premier Edition like there had been on the earlier models.. then two other dealers said it couldn't be fixed. finally a fourth dealer used a little pry bar to bend it (as described in another reply here) and it has worked perfectly ever since (with the caviat to shut it very gently so it doesn't bend in too far again......

[bruiser]

Haven't had problems with the trunk, frunk or saddle bags. Did have a problem with the glove box. The pin came out, would not latch and I could not lock the bars. Talked to the dealer, they ordered a new cover. When I went to have it replaced, the other mech said it didn't need it. He snapped the pin back in place, been working since. None of the latch mechanisms are what I would consider high dollar.

[draboo]

Mouthpiece and Bikerdoc

Did the dealer pry the latch assembly on the hood or the unit that opens and closes with the cable?

I would like to try this today, but only if I know which one to pry on.

I m thinking its the one that does the "latching",the unit which the cable attaches to.

[CyncySpyder]

I had the same issue about 2 weeks ago while I was picking up my RTS from the dealer for other repairs. It took a bit of doing with 2 techs working on it, but IT DOES ADJUST. There are 2 bolts holding the actual latching mechanism, and one tech. had to hold the one side while the other tech made the adjustment on the other side. After a bit of finagling they got it set just right again. I also gently set the frunk hood down then apply pressure to make it lock down.

I'm not saying anyone else is wrong in saying that dealers claim there aren't any adjustments to the locking mechanism, but I watched them do mine personally. Hope this helps. They didn't use any type of pry-bar, just 2 different size of Torx sockets.

[MouthPiece]

Did the dealer pry the latch assembly on the hood or the unit that opens and closes with the cable?

It appeared to me to be the part that is in the hole of the "frunk" and not the lid. You could call Seminole Power Sports, in Sanford, Flarda, 1-800-843-5118, then punch in "service" and ask for Scott. I'm sure he'd take the time to answer this one specifically.

Hope this helps.

Chris PE# 0004

[BikerDoc]

I agree with mouthpiece on the location of the fix on the trunk.. Ride Now in Ocala did mine....

[NancysToy]

I had the same issue about 2 weeks ago while I was picking up my RTS from the dealer for other repairs. It took a bit of doing with 2 techs working on it, but IT DOES ADJUST. There are 2 bolts holding the actual latching mechanism, and one tech. had to hold the one side while the other tech made the adjustment on the other side. After a bit of finagling they got it set just right again. I also gently set the frunk hood down then apply pressure to make it lock down.

I'm not saying anyone else is wrong in saying that dealers claim there aren't any adjustments to the locking mechanism, but I watched them do mine personally. Hope this helps. They didn't use any type of pry-bar, just 2 different size of Torx sockets.

The latch is adjustable. If the techs would bother to look in the shop manual, they would find the instructions for doing so.

[draboo]

The latch is adjustable. If the techs would bother to look in the shop manual, they would find the instructions for doing so.

Good call,Scotty! I went and loosened the two NUTS on the latch mechanism itself. The two nuts are on the right side as you sit on the spyder. After loosening, the latch is very much adjustable. The right side upper cover,visable after you open open the lid, has to be taken off to get at the two nuts. The two torx socket bolts on the opposite side don't need to be loosened.

So..if your "tech" comes near your RT with a little crowbar wanting to pry something..grab it out of his hand and tell him to fetch you a screwdriver(for the fastener for the cover) and a 10mm 1/4 drive socket/ratchet and do it yourself! 10 minutes max.

Oh, and I must say I do enjoy the electric frunk release! We originally thought that was the problem, but the adjustment did the trick.

One more thing..If you remove both those covers like I did, you must put em back on before you check on how well it closes. Those covers seem to make a difference.

Brad

[sinkhole]

When we left the dealer Wednesday with our RT, the right saddlebag popped open!

After installing a new airbag fitting, and replacing all of the tupperware on the back of the RT, I hit the road for a test drive. Driving down the interstate at 70mph I noticed a car alongside beckoning toward the back of the bike. One of my side bags was wide open. Luckily, nothing was stored inside at the time. I stopped, closed the cover, and all seems fine now. As added insurance, I may add some internal bungee straps on the side bags as an extra precaution. If they were to pop open "in flight", you'd lose everything.

[NancysToy]

After installing a new airbag fitting, and replacing all of the tupperware on the back of the RT, I hit the road for a test drive. Driving down the interstate at 70mph I noticed a car alongside beckoning toward the back of the bike. One of my side bags was wide open. Luckily, nothing was stored inside at the time. I stopped, closed the cover, and all seems fine now. As added insurance, I may add some internal bungee straps on the side bags as an extra precaution. If they were to pop open "in flight", you'd lose everything.

You should have had a warning on your dash. I suspect you have a wire unhooked, or a bad microswitch.

[sinkhole]

You should have had a warning on your dash. I suspect you have a wire unhooked, or a bad microswitch.

Scotty, At 70 mph, and with all of the glare on the panel... if the light was on, I never noticed it.
You did get me thinking though, so I'll have to check that out.

On the hood allignment part of this thread:
I had troubles with mine from the start. It sat high on one corner and initially I thought that the hood was warped. The dealer where I purchased the RT made a feeble attempt to fix it, but to no avail. I've fiddled with it several times and today finally got the thing to sit close to where it should be. It takes adjusting the front hinge points, and also the latch. By lowering the latch slightly I was able to pull the twist out, and the hood now snugs down on the tip cushions.

Now off to check my door warning lights.

[SpyderAnn01]

My glove box is tempermental when it comes to closing it. Are they adjustable also?

[NancysToy]

Scotty, At 70 mph, and with all of the glare on the panel... if the light was on, I never noticed it.
You did get me thinking though, so I'll have to check that out.

The entire screen should flash orange. I believe this is intermittent when the engine is running. To test, just open a lid and turn the key on. The front trunk is the only one not monitored, as far as I know.

[CyncySpyder]

I wish they all had the warning sensors, but frustratingly, only the rear storage compartment shows, at least on my RTS. My side compartments seem to pop open a couple times a month, have lost 2 hats & a pair of nice gloves

[Dudley]

I wish they all had the warning sensors, but frustratingly, only the rear storage compartment shows, at least on my RTS. My side compartments seem to pop open a couple times a month, have lost 2 hats & a pair of nice gloves

The latches need adjusting. I read about that and how to do it in the owner's manual.

Correction: I looked at the manual again, and I think I stand corrected. There is a picture of a latch adjustment but it's not for the rear trunk (top storage compartment). Before the Spyder that was called a trunk, so now I guess us "oldies" need to rename it for the Spyder.

[NancysToy]

I wish they all had the warning sensors, but frustratingly, only the rear storage compartment shows, at least on my RTS. My side compartments seem to pop open a couple times a month, have lost 2 hats & a pair of nice gloves

There are case opening sensor switches on all three rear luggage compartments. If yours are not working, they need to be repaired. Could be switches out of adjustment, bad resistors, or disconnected wiring. Your dealer should take a look. They will probably have to call BRP for the troubleshooting instructions, they are not in the manual. The wiring diagram shows them, though, and all mine work.

[ataDude]

...Before the Spyder that was called a trunk, so now I guess us "oldies" need to rename it for the Spyder.

Runk or Bunk.

[Dudley]

OK, on the subject of the "rear trunk" closing. I am always learning something new. I went back to the Spyder Cave and played with the lock/latch and found that in order for both latches to close they must close together. Slamming the trunk makes this difficult to do because the "together" has no window of play. I found this out by manually closing the latches. My solution: rest the lid down, then with the heel of your hand just give it a firm tap. I did this several times without fail. Hope this helps someone.

[SocalT]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=22780

[NancysToy]

Update:

I had never paid close attention to the "Rear Cargo Door Is Open" alarm before. As I said, it is an orange screen that appears across your entire display. I found that there is a five second delay before the warning shows. Not sure if any of this changes when you are moving.

[sinkhole]

Update:

I had never paid close attention to the "Rear Cargo Door Is Open" alarm before. As I said, it is an orange screen that appears across your entire display. I found that there is a five second delay before the warning shows. Not sure if any of this changes when you are moving.

I get no indication on the panel when any of the four doors on my RT-a/c are ajar.
The only time I've seen the "orange screen of death" is when I had the seat sensor disconnected... and you're right, the full orange screen changes to an orange notice on the bottom of the screen. I know that there is a micro switch on the frunk, but can't see where the switch/s are hidden on the side and rear doors.