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Maybe....
Originally Posted by SpyderRider
Hey Friends,
I installed my ESI Day Runners today and was in process of installing the Fender Tip Lights as well and ran into a problem with removing the front wheels. I tried to loosen those lug nuts with a star wheel, my big Craftsman Ratchet, and a lug wrench and neither sides nuts would budge. I only have 850 miles on the RT-S and am shocked. Those nuts must have been hammered and welded on by either the dealer or BRP. Mind you I am not a small weakling, at 6'5" and 265 Lbs, I can usually handle the best of anything that comes my way.
Has anyone else experienced this?
I was ready to remove, install, and reinstall/torque those nuts back on at the 77 Lb requirements but they are not moving...advice/comments!
Any chance that they are left handed threads?
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Oh no, did not think of that! YIKES, need to consult the owners/service manuals! I hope I am not an idiot !
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Very Active Member
The RT Spyders come shipped to the dealer with the wheels off. The dealer that put your RT together must have put them on too tight. I don't believe they have left hand threads, just too tight. Take it back to them and let them do the damage.
"Stupid is as Stupid does"
Don't Drink and Drive or Ryde!
Each Day is a Gift
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I believe that the Dealer torques them.I was told that they arrive in their crates without the wheels installed.
I removed the wheels on my RS yesterday without any problems.Call your dealer and ask them how much torque they used.
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The threads are right handed and Spyder RT's are shipped to the dealers with front wheels removed.
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Nothing regarding tightening rotation in either the Owners or Service Manual...maybe another item BRP skipped?
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You guys are right... I have been changing tires and torquing lug nuts for many years and I have never run into this. I mean I can't get them to budge at all!
To the dealer it goes on Tuesday.
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Active Member
Mine were just the opposite
Just over hand tight, I was glad I installed the ESI products just after purchased
Facta Non Verba
2010 RT-S SE5 PE 368
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Right to tight, left to loose. I just had them off and you are right. Some were on with an air hammer, some by hand. I got them off and torq them all to 77 ft lbs. On all my Euro car I have found the front wheel torq can make a unwanted vib in the the wheel. I always check what the stealership has done for torq on the front end. Now that I think about it Ev what were you thinking. lol.
Last edited by canam9; 08-23-2010 at 12:52 PM.
Reason: spl
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I spoke with Evan (MM) of ESI regarding another issue and told him about it. He said that they have run into this issue numerous times and he even destroyed a wrench getting the wheels off of SpyderWolf's Spyder.
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Removing Front Wheels
Originally Posted by SpyderRider
Hey Friends,
I installed my ESI Day Runners today and was in process of installing the Fender Tip Lights as well and ran into a problem with removing the front wheels. I tried to loosen those lug nuts with a star wheel, my big Craftsman Ratchet, and a lug wrench and neither sides nuts would budge. I only have 850 miles on the RT-S and am shocked. Those nuts must have been hammered and welded on by either the dealer or BRP. Mind you I am not a small weakling, at 6'5" and 265 Lbs, I can usually handle the best of anything that comes my way.
Has anyone else experienced this?
I was ready to remove, install, and reinstall/torque those nuts back on at the 77 Lb requirements but they are not moving...advice/comments!
..
Well I would suggest dealer or bigger ratchet or breaker bar Nuts have been over torqued common problem....Freebob...
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Well got them redone yesterday. Dealer swears not over tightened but mechanic had to tug down hard with a breaker bar to get them loose. I witnessed re-tightening with torque wrench.
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Thats one of the reasons i bought a torque wrench for wheels and drain plugs?
always had one but not sure of the accuracy on my old one.
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Torque front wheels
Originally Posted by Roger
Thats one of the reasons i bought a torque wrench for wheels and drain plugs?
always had one but not sure of the accuracy on my old one.
What a lot of people don't understand about the right torque on the wheels with disk brakes. When someone over tightens the wheels, the disk brakes heat up and there is a good chance that you will warp the rotors.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by woodchuck
What a lot of people don't understand about the right torque on the wheels with disk brakes. When someone over tightens the wheels, the disk brakes heat up and there is a good chance that you will warp the rotors.
While over-torquing them isn't good, rotors heat up no matter what. They would have to get REALLY hot for a long time to warp. I just had a problem with my brakes rubbing because I didn't install the new pads correctly--- rotors got hotter than ..... but they didn't warp. At any given time during a ride--- pull over and feel them and they will be warm if not HOT.
Another important thing to do when installing or removing these wheels is to cover up the brake units so you don't scratch the rims--- ask me how I know!
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Yeah, I saw that it's pretty tight in there!
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Tight nuts
I know the feeling. Be assured that the dealer's mechanic used his air powered nut tightener to tighten those nuts. The steel nuts bond with the aluminum rim where they seat when tightened. This is a charateristic of aluminum and softer steel. Do not lubricate the seat where the steel nuts come in contact with the aluminum rim. This high coificient of friction helps in keeping the nuts tightened in their place. The same holds true with the threads of the studs and the nuts. These threads should not be lubricated unless galling starts. That's when the two threaded parts, the stud and the nut, seem to weld together. Then a very limited amount of lubricant should be applied only to the first 2 threads of the studs before reapplying the nuts. Drive a little slower and get there safely.
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I was intending to remove my front wheels today to bring them inside (where it's warm) to install WrapMySpyder's new RT wheel wraps. Unfortunately I ran into the same problem as the OP had eight years ago (also new Spyder, 1800 miles so far).
Before I read his post, I mistakenly assumed I could remove the lugs with a normal socket wrench (as I have before with cars) and I fit a 13/16" socket to them, but they won't budge with all my strength and using a mallet didn't help. I didn't want to try any harder because I knew 13/16" was probably not the exact size and I didn't want to damage anything. Not being very wise on such things, before I go out and try to buy appropriate tools, what kind of breaker bar would you recommend? I look on Amazon and there are millions of them in different drives and lengths. Would hate to have to buy a 24" bar with only a 1/2" drive that I'd only be able to use on these stupid lugs. Amazon has a "Tooluxe 037003L 3/8" and 1/2" Dual Drive Beam Style Torque Wrench, Hardened Steel, 0-150 Ft Lbs" that is 17" long. If that would work, that would be pretty useful not just to remove these *&^% lug nuts but for other things as well. But is 17" long enough???
And what is the actual size of the lug nuts so I can buy a proper socket?
Thank you for any help. If this becomes too difficult or requires too many tools, screw it, I'll wait for warm weather and just put on the wraps right on the wheels without removing them.
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Very Active Member
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Very Active Member
John Simeon - 13/16 works great as the 21 mm nominal is just a tad bigger
The metric size is 21 mm on the lug nuts, but a thinwall 13/16 socket fits better and if you can find one with 1/2 drive and 6 pt you are set. Look for a 1/2" breaker bar 24" long, (I got mine from Harbor Freight) and you will have it to use with a 36 mm socket on the rear axle nut if you attempt that wheel change.
Works for me--you can never have too many tools
07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
03 Harley Sportster, 07 RK moved on
11 RT- 76,000 mi, 15 RT-S- 44,000 mi, traded for current 15 base RT and 16 F3T
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Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Anything slid over the end of your spanner, socket drive, or lug wrench arm/handle that extends the length of the leverage you are applying on the socket will work as a breaker bar.... you really don't need to go out & buy a specific tool just to do this job - just grab a length of pipe of a suitable diameter or even a longish ring spanner that has a socket ring sized big enough to just fit over the end of the handle, slip it on the end away from the lug nut & push on that!! Even tho the ring spanner will be applying the push at close to 90 degrees to the original handle, it'll work because of the extra length between the pushing end & the lug nut - basically, you just hafta make sure the leverage is extended far enough......
Now what was that saying??.... And who was it??......
"Just give me a lever long enough and a fulcrum on which to place it, and I'll shall move the World!"
or something like that!!.... I reckon it was Archimedes - pretty sure that's the right bloke!! Very smart fella, for his, or any time!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
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Very Active Member
johnsimion, If you don't want to buy new tools for this, you're close enough to Capt Joe and Ann Meyer, I'm certain they could break them loose for you. They are Squared Away right there in LV. (Site Sponsors too)
SL Usernames cptjam or SpyderAnn01
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020 |
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