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Originally Posted by Capt John
The holes would not line up. I spent about 35 minutes trying to get it to work. The panel was hitting the front right support bracket. I finally just notched out about 1 1/2" X 3/8" and everything fit back together.
I ran into the same problem. At first I thought I did something wrong, but ended up cutting a piece of it to make it fit.
A couple of days later, I took the panels out to wire the GPS to the battery and realized I probably could have pushed the panels more to align the holes and not have to cut a small part of it. What is done is done.
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Very Active Member
Hmmmm - strange. I didn't have any problem with the fit of the panels. Glad you found a workaround.
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Originally Posted by bone crusher
Fire,
You're a good guy....thank you for posting this...when I get around to getting the bags, I'll probably nag you to tell me where this thread is again...
Thanks in advance..
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Do the BRP bags use a different key or is it the same as the ignition key?
It would be nice to have one key for the bike and bags.
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Originally Posted by bwlinux
Do the BRP bags use a different key or is it the same as the ignition key?
It would be nice to have one key for the bike and bags.
Totally different (GIVI) key. Sorry.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by bwlinux
Do the BRP bags use a different key or is it the same as the ignition key?
It would be nice to have one key for the bike and bags.
The bags have their own key--- but one key fits both bags. Much smaller key that the Spyder key.
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instructions
Thanks to everyone who posted feedback on your saddle bag installation. I just took a 100 mile round trip to my dealer and brought a set of the Givi Bags. Guess what? NO Instructions! welcomeDoes anyone have a copy in electronic form that they could send me. I've called my dealer for the instructions but I have a feeling they may take a while to send them to me.
thanks to all. Ice
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I received my BRP bags today. No instructions but the dealer said he'd get them to me. Which is Okay as I have to wait for my Corbin smuggler trunk and seat to arrive and then I can start to install everything at once. I decided to go with the BRP bags not Corbins. Saved a grand and I think I will like the look. + I can remove the bags at will. The Smuggler trunk looks pretty good on there by its self. It will switch out with the passenger seat. I think I like this modular stuff.
Thanks Firefly & Scotty, in advance for the heads up on possible sticking points.
I will post pictures in a few weeks after all is finished.
Mike
Last edited by Arachnid; 10-08-2009 at 07:00 PM.
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Originally Posted by Arachnid
I received my BRP bags today. No instructions but the dealer said he'd get them to me. Which is Okay as I have to wait for my Corbin smuggler trunk and seat to arrive and then I can start to install everything at once. I decided to go with the BRP bags not Corbins. Saved a grand and I think I will like the look. + I can remove the bags at will. The Smuggler trunk looks pretty good on there by its self. It will switch out with the passenger seat. I think I like this modular stuff.
Thanks Firefly & Scotty, in advance for the heads up on possible sticking points.
I will post pictures in a few weeks after all is finished.
Mike
If you didn't get the instructions, did you get the hardware. They normally come in the same bag. If you get stuck, PM me an email address and I can scan the instructions and parts list.
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Coming back on the installation..
I was wondering if anyone who installed their BRP Saddlebags could tell me what tools are needed to do the install. My dealer just received my bags and I was planning to install them directly at my dealer (in the parking lot) wich is 90 miles away from home. I don't want to drive there with my car.
Anyone ?
Thank you in advance...
Fell like I'll be swearing a lot in the near future..
Eric
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Originally Posted by Pocketrace
Coming back on the installation..
I was wondering if anyone who installed their BRP Saddlebags could tell me what tools are needed to do the install. My dealer just received my bags and I was planning to install them directly at my dealer (in the parking lot) wich is 90 miles away from home. I don't want to drive there with my car.
Anyone ?
Thank you in advance...
Fell like I'll be swearing a lot in the near future..
Eric
I would not do it this way. It requires removing several body panels, so you will have lots of loose hardware. The instructions are also missing one step, so you will want access to this thread to see what you really need to do...plus there are some tips here. As to tools, I used what I needed with my toolbox handy, including a torque wrench. I am not sure exactly which tools, but I doubt the ones in your toolkit will do the job...at least not quickly and efficiently. You will also want a blanket or something soft to put removed panels on, and to put the color panels on the bags without scuffing them.
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Very Helpful Member
Originally Posted by NancysToy
I would not do it this way. It requires removing several body panels, so you will have lots of loose hardware. The instructions are also missing one step, so you will want access to this thread to see what you really need to do...plus there are some tips here. As to tools, I used what I needed with my toolbox handy, including a torque wrench. I am not sure exactly which tools, but I doubt the ones in your toolkit will do the job...at least not quickly and efficiently. You will also want a blanket or something soft to put removed panels on, and to put the color panels on the bags without scuffing them.
From reading some of the threads concerning owner installation of these brackets, I was thinking that trying to do the install in a parking lot would be a little too difficult.
Former Happy Spyder Owner
Just decided it was time to move onto other things.
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It took me most of an afternoon to install the bags and like others have said, the instructions are not clear.
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Thank you for your resplies,
But I have a few reasons to this overthere...
Also my dealer told me I could use their garages so I' ll be inside in a controlled environment ..
This week I will 1st take the whole rear apart to know what I'm getting into, then I'll see...
If anybody else has a list of tools needed, feel free to respond....
Eric R
Laval, Qc, Canada
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Very Active Member
I would say this install will take a good 4 hours for a first-timer. Instructions are poor and you will curse. You would really want to be near a computer to look at the various install pics.
I can't remember all the sizes off hand-- but you'll need multiple open-end and socket wrenches of the same size (two 13 mm and two 10 mm I think).
An extra set of hands is handy too.
I'd pick them up in a car and do it at home.... or have the dealer just ship them to you--- probably cost less than the gas will for 180 miles round trip.
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Givi Bags
I had the same set that you show, the problem with them is you will not be able to take the side panels off unless you remove the blinker light relocaters. I sold mine and replaced them with the PLX999. Still has a place to mount the blinkers if you want, but you can still take the side panels off with out removing the hole set up. I also used the magic mans leds and removed the stock blinkers, a much better set up. Plus your dealer will charge you an extra 1.5 hrs if he has two get in there. I know.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Roy's Bassets
I had the same set that you show, the problem with them is you will not be able to take the side panels off unless you remove the blinker light relocaters. I sold mine and replaced them with the PLX999. Still has a place to mount the blinkers if you want, but you can still take the side panels off with out removing the hole set up. I also used the magic mans leds and removed the stock blinkers, a much better set up. Plus your dealer will charge you an extra 1.5 hrs if he has two get in there. I know.
It's pretty rare that you need to remove those panels... and it's not that hard--- just takes an extra 10-15 minutes.
The thing I love about the BRP setup is the quick-release racks---
Spyder #1 - 2008 GS SM5 Premier Edition #1977. RIP after 80,000 miles.
Spyder #2 - 2012 RT SM5. Traded in after 24,000 miles.
Spyder #3 - 2015 F3 SM6. Put 13,000 miles on and sold it.
Spyder #4 - 2017 F3 SM6. Too good of a deal to pass up!
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Very Helpful Member
Originally Posted by Pocketrace
What are the PLX999...
Industries 7 Inc. Givi rack system for the Spyder.
http://www.industries7.com/pages/Spy360.jsp
Former Happy Spyder Owner
Just decided it was time to move onto other things.
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Originally Posted by Pocketrace
Now I made a Boo-Boo... It's probably something that was already wrong with the right rear peg but once I started tightening it I felt the threads giving away... Darn !! Now I don't feel like taking the whole rear peg assembly off and re-tapping it...
But I guess I have no other choice... Anybody has another idea ?
I feel like filling it with epoxy but if I ever need to take the peg off or the whole rack I will be in trouble...
I need help... I really didn't tightened it too hard.. The threads just gave away..
Please help !!! Any idea.. ??
If the threads failed on the bolt, it can simply be replaced. If they failed in the frame or bracket, there would be two choices. Easiest, if there is room, would be to use a longer bolt and back it with a nut, preferably a locknut. The other choice would be to drill the hole larger, tap it, and use the next size bolt. From the pictures, this is not a place a thread insert would work.
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Originally Posted by Pocketrace
I wish it was the threads of the bolt... That would of been a no brainer..
But it's the threads from the pegs that are gone...
Does anybody know if the pegs are in aluminum or magnesium ? I might have a friend weld the hole and retap it. Lots of work ahead...
Eric R
I would expect aluminum or pot metal, magnesium is too expensive and corrodes readily. If you can get it off, or get at it good enough, you could drill and insert a Heli-Coil.
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