'24 F3 Customer Accessory Circuits don't match manual - splice into them or... ??
Just bought a 2024 F3S and looking to add some lights. The manual states that there are 3 Customer accessory circuits available. One under the frunk; one, the left service panel; and one under the passenger seat. I’ve checked all three and they don’t look anything like what is in the manual, or what I had in previous Spyders. Do I need to splice directly into the wires to access these?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-20-2024 at 06:03 PM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly state the reason for this thread! ;-)
I have found the manuals to be generic in nature and missing most of the useful info.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-20-2024 at 06:02 PM.
2024 RT Sea to Sky
2023 RT Sea to Sky Shadow Green (guess what? NO errors at all in 9 months of owning!) Such a sweet S2S :-) Oh It's my wife's bike :-)
A lot of folks here (me included) just added a small FUSE box connected to the battery and used that as needed. I think I paid $8.00 for 6 circuits .... see what "Banggood" has to offer. .... Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-20-2024 at 06:03 PM.
ON my 2022 RTL there was no accessory wire on the right side, so I spliced into a wire labeled power using posi-taps. Installed my GPS and it powers up when my RTL is turned on.
Current: 2022 RTL SE6 Red Marsala and 2012 622 Trailer Lava Bronze,
Previous: 2014 RTL SE6 Black Currant - 58,746 miles,
2012 RTL SE5 Lava Bronze - 19,675 miles
Yes, there's a total of three and you may need to remove the left panel to see that one. You will need to remove the black cover to see the wires. You can attached a Splicing Connector to each wire for additional accessories
On my 22 F3S I have found and used all but the rear cust acc wiring.
If it's the same as mine, the wires will be taped together and then sealed. It's all black. The frunk wires to the right of the battery looking at the Spyder from the front. I had to dig mine out. They were hiding in plain sight.
The left side panel is where the 2nd customer accessory wiring is. It should also have a white tag indicating the cust acc wiring.
The rear looking from the back of the Spyder it's under the seat or cowl on the left side looking fwd. Mine was two pinkish colored female spade butt connectors.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-15-2024 at 04:21 PM.
Just purchased a 2024 F3 Limited Special and want to hookup a Garmin XT. Owners manual says there is an accessory circuit under the left service panel but I cannot find it. Went to the dealer and he could not see it either on a showroom model. Has anyone with a 2024 F3 Limited found the accessory circuit under the left service Panel?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-15-2024 at 04:19 PM.
You may need to look a bit deeper. On my 2023 F3-S, the frunk accessory circuit was almost "outside" the frunk area, in fact I think I see the white paper label in your image. Mine was wire-tied to a harness and somewhat of a PIA to free up and pull into the frunk. It also was not very long. I used a red wire tie to keep it in the funk area. (See the image below)
The left side lines were the same way - folded up and deep inside the cavity wire-tied to a harness. Look for a paper tag as your first clue.
The tail circuit was plainly in sight with a black rubber boot. In your last image, it is clearly not in the location where it's supposed to be. I can see the locating tabs that hold the wires in your picture and there is no wire there. BTW, the rear circuit actually comes into the tail from the opposite side and wraps around to where your picture shows. (See my attached image.) Maybe starting at that point and looking around to see if someone just didn't route it properly at the factory?
Or...
Perhaps Can-Am changed these and didn't update their manuals?
I don't intent to ruffle any feathers, but I would advise against adding a fuse block and running directly from the battery. Parasitic draw is real and if done wrong, can damage the battery or worse - the electrical system. The one time you accidentally leave something on and come back to a dead battery... Using the customer accessory circuit gives you 10 amps worth of power (8A actual - always leave 20% for a safety margin) is the safest and cleanest option IMO. The circuit is switched; it only outputs 12vdc when the motor is running; and the battery is charging.
The attached image shows my tail, and I highlighted the path the wire takes. Keep in mind, my tail has been cleaned up a little, meaning there was a lot of extra wire for the customer accessory circuit, so I wrapped it up and placed it all under the tag. Good Luck!
Last edited by broderp; 07-22-2024 at 07:33 AM.
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
Any update on this from the OP? Curious minds would like to know what you found out! And the rest are peeved that you likely got a resolution, but didn't take the time to share it after asking for help.
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
Any update on this from the OP? Curious minds would like to know what you found out! And the rest are peeved that you likely got a resolution, but didn't take the time to share it after asking for help.
It appears that the OP came, posted the opening post here, then left the Forum about an hour later and has not been back since... That could be for a variety of reasons, pressing health issues; accidents; dealing with floods &/or tornadoes - who knows?? Maybe they just haven't had the time &/or opportunity to check back yet Not everyone visits the Forum every day, altho unless they're actually out riding, why they wouldn't check in is beyond me!
Still, it happens, sometimes a lot, and there's no use in getting peeved over that - it'll just raise your blood pressure, probably increase the damage you inflict on your keyboard, likely end up increasing your risk of heart attack &/or a stroke too; and there's nothing you can do about it anyway, so.....
Besides, posting about it & having a bit of a dig probably won't help anything much either - in fact, it might even convince some not to even bother coming here &/or asking their questions in the first place - so all round, it's very likely better for you; it's almost certainly better for all the other members; and it's better for the Forum as a whole if posting about it like that is best avoided, and you just take it on the chin as part of the rich tapestry of life; and instead, try to Ride More, Worry Less!
Just Sayin!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-01-2024 at 09:28 PM.
I don't intent to ruffle any feathers, but I would advise against adding a fuse block and running directly from the battery. Parasitic draw is real and if done wrong, can damage the battery or worse - the electrical system. The one time you accidentally leave something on and come back to a dead battery... Using the customer accessory circuit gives you 10 amps worth of power (8A actual - always leave 20% for a safety margin) is the safest and cleanest option IMO. The circuit is switched; it only outputs 12vdc when the motor is running; and the battery is charging.
Or, maybe getting an accessory fuse block that can be switched on and off and use the power from the Spyders accessory circuit to do the switching. Then you can have multiple outlets at 8 amps or more.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-02-2024 at 12:14 AM.