The included cable noted below is the one used for a permanent install. The other end allows for quick connect and disconnect of the charger/maintainer.
Open the frunk and unzip the interior lining to expose the battery access panel. The picture below already has the pigtail installed because I didn’t take a picture before I started.
Route the pigtail (quick connect end) from the battery compartment area through the hole into the frunk compartment. Slide the quick connect through the “plus” in the rubber plug and reinstall the plug.
My battery uses either a 10mm or Phillips head screwdriver for connection at the battery terminals. Remove the negative terminal screw and disconnect the negative cable. Be careful not to drop the screw inside the battery compartment. Recovering the screw could be a challenge and prolong the install process. Remove the positive terminal screw (being careful not to drop) and connect the positive lead of the pigtail with the positive cable. Reinstall positive terminal screw. Connect the negative lead of the pigtail with the negative cable and reinstall the negative terminal screw.
Reinstall the battery access panel and tighten the two T30 Torx screws.
Zip up the frunk interior lining and you’re done. Easy access to the quick connect when you want to use your battery charger/maintainer. It’s inside the frunk protected from the elements and still separated from your frunk cargo.
Thanks for posting this, as I've purchased a similar battery tender that I used with the clamps to charge/maintain the battery in my ride-on lawn mower.
I'm planning to use the permanent connector to do what you did on my Spyder.
But three of your pictures aren't working.
The first two pictures work, of the box and it's contents, but the next two pictures do not work.
The picture with the red circle about the plug works, but not the last picture.
I extend the charge cable and route it to the left side behind the wheel. When not in use I put the cap on it and tuck it into the grill. No need to open the frunk to connect it or disconnect it.
2018 RT Ltd - Asphalt Metallic - East Valley of Phoenix
2018 RT Ltd Chrome - Champagne Metallic - Lake Stevens, Wa
(Champagne/Hooker) Magic Mirrors, 360 LED head lights, BajaRon sway bar, H&R springs and shock adjusters, dash cam, foam grips, third brake light 4 LED strobe for 7 seconds and then on steady, rear LED turn signals/8 ohm 50W resistors, sequential turn signals on front fenders, Vredestein and PPA Orb wheels on front and General out back, and driver backrest.
Things that move between machines: Ikea sheep skins, Zumo XT GPS, and extra tools. Hooker is going to be my summer trike up North; and Hookie my winter trike down South.
(Asphalt/Hookie) Elka shocks on front - BajaRon sway bar, OEM driver's backrest, LED headlights, dual USB with voltmeter, dash cam, foam grips - Magic Mirrors - front tires Vredestein Quatrac SL on PPA ORB Chrome wheels.
Take one of the Torx bolts that hold the battery cover on to the hardware store and get a couple of these. Much easier to deal with if you are away from tools and need to access the battery for any reason. thumbnail_PXL_20240422_204456704.jpg
Wow, mine was already installed on my 2021 RTL. Could it finally be that we got something on an earlier model that we didn't have to pay for? I looked at a 2024 this weekend and was pissed that they got the wrench to take the top case off, while we had to pay $10 to get one for the ealier models. Can am should have given us one after deciding that it was easier to remove with this tool.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
"Be careful not to drop the screw inside the battery compartment. Recovering the screw could be a challenge and prolong the install process."
You tried to warn me. And I listened. I was careful, just not careful enough. Never did find the screw so off to the dealer for a replacement. That was embarrassing to show up within 18 hours of picking up the bike to get a part to fix something I had essentially broken.
I was actually in there to connect a power wire for my heated gear. But did take you up on the advice to run the wire for the tender through the rubber plug. The dealer had just left it hanging out of the access door.
But did take you up on the advice to run the wire for the tender through the rubber plug. The dealer had just left it hanging out of the access door.
The dealer may have left the permanent wire just sticking out the access door because that rubber plug, if later models are at all like my '14 RT-S, can be removed and there is a switched cable that can be inserted in the hole to provide power to the frunk tub. The lead to my Battery Tender Jr protrudes through the top of the battery access door between the Torx bolts. In 87K+ miles I've ridden through some long, frog strangling storms and have never gotten water in the frunk tub.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S