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Originally Posted by broderp
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This is a factor not usually talked about and part of the reason I started this chain. Brand loyalty, fanboy-ism and different riding styles make soliciting answers difficult. I'll throw in that in all likelihood, the stiff ride you experienced was likely PERFECT in someone else eyes. Maybe even Elka's. And me asking for a shock that wont bottom out under my weight/ load is a loaded question because I know in all likeliness the answer will result in a harder ride. I'm looking for a comfortable but supportive ride that wont bottom out but it seems most options within the range I am willing to spend will be compromise. Thanks for your opinion.
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I was kind of spoiled from years of off-road motorcycle racing. I would get triple progressive springs dialed for weight. The shock adjustment for rebound and compression really translated into true changes that could be felt under race conditions. My Enduro machines floated like a butterfly over moderate pumps and stiffened just right on the hard. I thought I could achieve that on my F3L. As a test on my F3L I had my friend turn the compression dial either all in or all out and not tell me which he did. I honestly never could tell any difference in the rear shock.
.... Mind me asking how much you weigh? ....
One up about 200 lbs. Two up about 350 lbs. Changing a rear shock was a PITA Good luck. Keeps us posted. Thanks Dennis
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-11-2024 at 08:47 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)
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Spyders being short wheel travel machines, without any suspension linkage to obtain a better rising rate of the suspensions action, places a large emphasis on a proper rear spring AND the progressive increase in air pressure, of the bladder, as the rear suspension compresses.
Lighter the rider or combined rider and payload, the less need for for the air spring system.
From a design standpoint, a Spyders long swingarm combined with a rear shock placed vertical offers a minimal, if any rising rate increase to the the rear shock. In designs like this, often the spring used to resist bottoming out, or riding with excessive rider sag is firmer than ideal for the shocks initial movement.
The Spyders suspension design, in ways similar to the simple go kart style steering, is very few parts to manufacturer, but can be acceptable on account of minimal wheel travel of the suspension, but can no doubt be improved with higher performance suspension components.
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Active Member
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
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Active Member
Having replaced the rear tire myself, I'll be timing rear shock replacement to coincide with the next rear tire replacement....don't want to do that any more often than necessary, 'cause it is definitely a PITA.
John B.
Current ride: 2020 Spyder RT-s Petrol Metallic Blue dark with OEM top case
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Very Active Member
Suspensions are like seats, every body's butts like a different thing, and it's hard to please everyone with one style of shock. My thoughts are that it doesn't really matter which brand you go to, but when you do it's important that when you go through the ordering stage, talk to the builder and tell them what you're looking for. If they are truly a shock fab shop, they should get close, yes it may take a little tweaking, and maybe revalving but they should get close to what you want! As much as I bitch about the air ride system on these bikes, it's the air delivery part of the system I hate the most, and the cheap shock that they shove it there. The compressors the weak link! Not dependable and when it go's, it really sucks. Lot of people fell that the bags there just to adjust ride height, I feel the bags there for the compression, and the shocks there for the rebound, hence the plush ride! When the bags out of the picture your to the murcy of that shock and thats less than a pogo stick with on spring. Ask me how I know this? Any way to all that's trying to battle this bear, good luck and spend you money wisely, and don't get flustered if you don't hit the nail on the head the first time, you have to tweak it to please your butt!!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by PMK
Spyders being short wheel travel machines, without any suspension linkage to obtain a better rising rate of the suspensions action, places a large emphasis on a proper rear spring AND the progressive increase in air pressure, of the bladder, as the rear suspension compresses.
Lighter the rider or combined rider and payload, the less need for for the air spring system.
Interesting comment in that it would seem that unless this was an oversight in design, Spyder was designed from the start to utilize and air suspension and the models that don't have one are left to contend with the design as it was. I'm not a design engineer, but I can think of a better design for a suspension than a simple vertical one. I also find it interesting that the Ryker has a rear shock spacer that can be added, but the design geometry on that trike is much different.
Originally Posted by PMK
From a design standpoint, a Spyders long swingarm combined with a rear shock placed vertical offers a minimal, if any rising rate increase to the the rear shock. In designs like this, often the spring used to resist bottoming out, or riding with excessive rider sag is firmer than ideal for the shocks initial movement.
This would almost seem like an argument for a spring system like the Elka Stage 3+ dual spring rates. Interesting..
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
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Originally Posted by broderp
I'm hoping that the PITA you refer to is due to having a F3T, R, Limited or RT. I have a F3-S and it appears fairly straight forward with decent access. The more I learn about Spyder's, the more I am so happy I picked the F3S over the T or Limited I was considering.
The tail needs to be lifted to create the clearance for removal. Because of the side luggage on my F3L, I had a difficult time trying to lift the tail without causing damage. The rear tire stays on the floor and the tail gets lifted just right for the bolts and holes to line up. Four hands at this moment would really help.
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i am running m2s on front and left the rear alone on my 21rtl love the ride its great for cruising or spirited riding
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Active Member
Originally Posted by fatboy
i am running m2s on front and left the rear alone on my 21rtl love the ride its great for cruising or spirited riding
How has your experience been when it comes to needing to make adjustments? How difficult is it to access and make adjustments once mounted? How long have you had them? M2 is on my short list to purchase for a few reasons.
2023 Spyder F3-S, Manta Green
2023 Ryker 600 ACE, Black on Black (The wife's toy )
2020 Kawasaki Z900, Candy Plasma Blue
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get them set and forget 50000 miles
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