Upgrade LED Turn Signal Bulbs won't illuminate - any ideas?
Hello and greetings from the UK.
I have tried searching the database but I couldn't find the information I need.
I am looking to upgrade the std 21w winker bulbs that are fitted to my UK spec F3-S to LED. I bought the correct fitting bulbs with offset pins see link below, I fitted the bulbs but they do not illuminate, I have checked the bulbs and they are not faulty. Has anyone got any ideas please? https://www.argocityltd.com/led-bulb...xoC2CgQAvD_BwE
Link to UK spec Spyder F3, note different rear winkers/turn signals.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-05-2024 at 03:11 PM.
Reason: Removed Prefix - not 1330 engine specific & expanded title to briefly ask the question... ;-)
Not sure it'll help you much, and not all that sure how best to explain this, but often when LED's don't light up it's because they've been connected the wrong way - they ONLY light up if their positive side is connected to the positive side of the circuit and their negative to the negative, so maybe you should try taking them out; turning them 180° so they plug in the other way; and see if that works??
Good Luck!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-05-2024 at 03:20 PM.
In order to do that he has to flip the wires around, it's a one post bulb in the picture. Guess he could make some jumpers and try one bulb out of place!
In order to do that he has to flip the wires around, it's a one post bulb in the picture. Guess he could make some jumpers and try one bulb out of place!
I took a snapshot of part of their advertising. The words say opposite but a picture shows slightly off center of opposite.
So if the pins are 180 Degrees opposite then just turn the bulb around. But if the image is correct then the wiring has to be changed. Screenshot 2024-01-05 155234.jpg
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Well Andrew, I guess I'm going to have to disagree that it's a polarity thing. Because the bulb only goes in one way, the center pin is probably positive already and the base is negative, as it should be. Instead, I think that the issue is that the bulb is not compatible with vehicles that have a CAN BUS system. The description of the bulb that you posted about states that.
Note, these are not compatible with vehicles that have the canbus system.
The Spyder is a CAN BUS vehicle. And even though the Spyder does not give you a burned out bulb indication on the dash, the Spyder flasher does usually have fits, such as "hyper-flash", if it gets replacement our additional LEDs installed that do not have the load resistors in them. In your case, perhaps your issue is "no-flash", instead of "hyper-flash".
I came across this post from awhile back about a 2020 RT. I believe that, at the time, the RT had the same bulbs that your F3 has. He found a CAN BUS ready bulb that worked in his flasher right out of the box. Because the cost of bulbs is fairly minor these days, perhaps you might want to try another bulb that is CAN BUS ready before you go ripping out wiring and such.
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My post was just a thoughty, which is why I said from the outset that I wasn't sure it'd help much, and I didn't recall that we'd already seen some 2020+ Spyders with the 'not suitable for CANBUS LED' issue!
When did Spyders go 'all LED'?? Is that just for 2023+, or earlier?? Or is that just for the RT's; or only the main lights??
I too used the BAU15S bulbs and they work fine. Got them on Amazon
The thlot plickens?!
I do wonder if the Can Am production line is always as careful about connecting things like customer accessory plugs or turn indicator lights up the same way every time, or if this is just another instance of some lackadaisical workmanship & poor quality control like the many 'backward wired' Customer Accessory Plugs quite a few Spyders Owners have found?!
But I guess it's going to be up to you to try things out Hogmonster, I hope some of these suggestions/this discussion helps?!
I also think the problem is polarity.
For some reason, BRP often gets the polarity wrong on bulb fixtures, after all, it's less relevant for the incandescent bulbs.
I remember when I switched to LEDs on my 2014, the right side worked fine and the left side needed to reverse the polarity.
And my 2020 GPS wouldn't charge, even though it was connected directly to the aux power circuit with factory connectors.
Again, I had to follow Mr. Scott's best engineering advice and reverse the polarity.
The point being that even though the bulbs will only fit in the socket one way, there's still a good chance that BRP has wired them backwards.
The CanBus issue will cause hyper flash, (fast winking) and can be fixed by adding a resistor to the circuit if needed.
As always, my free advice comes with a double your money back guarantee.
EDIT------OH..........looks like Peter had this covered first.
Last edited by ThreeWheels; 01-05-2024 at 10:40 PM.
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Well Andrew, I guess I'm going to have to disagree that it's a polarity thing. Because the bulb only goes in one way, the center pin is probably positive already and the base is negative, as it should be. Instead, I think that the issue is that the bulb is not compatible with vehicles that have a CAN BUS system. The description of the bulb that you posted about states that.
Note, these are not compatible with vehicles that have the canbus system.
The Spyder is a CAN BUS vehicle. And even though the Spyder does not give you a burned out bulb indication on the dash, the Spyder flasher does usually have fits, such as "hyper-flash", if it gets replacement our additional LEDs installed that do not have the load resistors in them. In your case, perhaps your issue is "no-flash", instead of "hyper-flash".
I came across this post from awhile back about a 2020 RT. I believe that, at the time, the RT had the same bulbs that your F3 has. He found a CAN BUS ready bulb that worked in his flasher right out of the box. Because the cost of bulbs is fairly minor these days, perhaps you might want to try another bulb that is CAN BUS ready before you go ripping out wiring and such.
Andrew, you’ll probably end up doing both. Getting different bulbs with the resistors in them, so that there’s no hyper-flash. Links to ones that we know will work are up above. And, if they don’t light up, having to swap the polarity of the wires going to the sockets. Which, may end up not being that difficult, depending on the harness connectors. And isn’t that how simple projects usually go? Good luck.
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Hi,
Guys thank you so much to everyone for your interest and support on this subject, I didn’t realise the Spyder used the Canbus system, I will check the polarity of the bulb holders with my multimeter that can’t lie, if they are the wrong way round I will dig deeper. I will return the bulbs I have got and thanks to the advice given I will get Canbus compatible and with the resistors built in, I don’t want to start wiring in resistors.
I will let you all know when I get to the bottom of it.
Hi Doug thank you for your help regarding the Canbus suggestion and all the other people who chipped in.
I ordered some Canbus error free LED 581 Py21w bulbs with fitted resistors to stop the hyper flash, they did too, I also ordered some 380 Bay15d 21/5w CanBus type as the other LEDS wouldn't work, so I now have LED's on the rear, winkers, tail lights, brake lights and N0 Plate illumination. The reverse light bulb looks like a small halogen.
Whilst I had the winker bulb holder out I did check the polarity with my Mulitimeter, the polarity is reversed, + earth - live, but it must be wired the correct way otherwise the LED bulbs wouldn't illuminate. Is that something to do with CanBus?
I have attached a photo showing the original bulbs and LED upgrade a "Before and After" .
Glad some of your lights are working ..... However, WHY the plate light stopped baffles me, it shouldn't be related to anything you did. ...Good Luck ....Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-09-2024 at 04:38 PM.
Reason: shou;ldn't; l;uck ... ;-)
Glad some of your lights are working ..... However, WHY the plate light stopped baffles me, it shouldn't be related to anything you did. ...Good Luck ....Mike
"N0 Plate" is a shortened version of "Number Plate" in the UK.