Using a 1/2" 150 or 120 lb-ft torque wrench you can easily reach the required torque of 166 lb-ft on the axle nut. Here's how to calculate the torque wrench reading needed. https://www.norbarusa.com/Support/Ca...ension-Formula
I bought the same wrench before my Spyder was delivered. I was just getting ready.
2022 Spyder Sea to Sky Mystery Blue
2009 Suzuki Boulevard M50 SE
Just exactly what do you mean? Since the nut has to turn clockwise to tighten, if the bottom section of it has more friction against the swing arm than does the top section that friction will tend to make the nut and axle move forward. There really isn't enough room to point the wrench any way but toward the back. And since torquing is rotational I don't see how you can make it directional.
If I recall correctly it's top left, bottom right.
To stop the axle from moving while torquing it, you can run two small straps around the back tire and go over the frame cross member the rear shock is mounted on. Once you pull it all forward with the ratchet straps, the axle will be right up against the adjuster bolts. If you have not moved the adjuster bolts, the belt adjustment will be exactly the same as before you removed the rear axle.
I posted a how to change rear tire guide on this forum several years ago, but for some reason the pictures that went with it no longer show up. I still have the pictures.
They are not flea market finds, they are my family heirlooms.
If you can't find the 36 mm tools, then a 1 7/16 SAE is about 1/2 mm larger. On a nut that large the 1/2 mm would make very little difference. It sure would not slip or round the corners. So little difference in 36 and a 36.5 you would be OK with that on the very large nuts.
Hey that looks like what I have .... and I bought them mostly at " flea markets " ..... Mike
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
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