Does it cost this much for Brake fluid change from dealership?
I had a recall completed on my 2020 RTL recently and inquired about a brake fluid change. I believe it is supposed to be done every two years. Seems the process is long and complicated if ALL the fluid is drained and replaced, including the ABS. I was told it was a 5-6 hour job to complete. At shop rates, that sounds very expensive just to change the fluid. I know it requires their computer to properly do the job. If my calculations are correct, I could pay upwards of $700 just to change the brake fluid.
Does this seem right? I do know I want good brakes and good brakes do cost....and I know these toys come with spending more money...
Just wondering what others are doing and/or paying to service their brake fluid.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-25-2023 at 11:09 PM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question... ;-)
It seems a little more than what I have heard some people state on here.
I haven't had to pay for one myself as it gets done when my spyder gets reframed usually before it's 2 year required interval!
Last edited by CloverHillCrawler; 09-25-2023 at 04:28 PM.
2020 F3 SE6
Safety and Lighting: LED Headlight upgrade, IPS LED Fog lights, Show Chrome LED Fender Signals, LED Signature Light, Tric LED Afterburnerz, MotoHorn 2.0
Suspension: Wilbers Front and Rear Shocks, BajaRon Sway Bar, Vredestein Quatrac Front and Rear Tires
Comfort: Blue Ridge Windshield, Corbin Dual Touring Saddle, Ultimate Floorboards, OEM Passenger Backrest with Rear Shelf, OEM Passenger Floorboards Modified with High Risers from Pierre
Tackform Center Mount Phone Holder w/ rapid charging USB-C.
I had a recall completed on my 2020 RTL recently and inquired about a brake fluid change. I believe it is supposed to be done every two years. Seems the process is long and complicated if ALL the fluid is drained and replaced, including the ABS. I was told it was a 5-6 hour job to complete. At shop rates, that sounds very expensive just to change the fluid. I know it requires their computer to properly do the job. If my calculations are correct, I could pay upwards of $700 just to change the brake fluid.
Does this seem right? I do know I want good brakes and good brakes do cost....and I know these toys come with spending more money...
Just wondering what others are doing and/or paying to service their brake fluid.
Install Speed Bleeders and it is a quick, one man operation.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-25-2023 at 11:09 PM.
Reason: Removed Post title - many only see Thread titles, and post titles mess with Searching! ;-)
2013 Silverado 2500HD Duramax
2017 Honda Pilot
2018 Maverick Trail 1000 DPS
2015 RTS SE6 Intense Red Pearl
2014 35' Keystone Fuzion Impact Toyhauler
Ultimate Seats passenger backrest, Adjustable wind deflectors, Minitrailer USA trailer, Can Am driver backrest, Corbin passenger armrests, after market hitch, DIY bump skid, LED turn indicaters, cup holders, frunk decal stripes, DIY GPS mount, DIY Gopro dash mount, aux 12v & USB outlets, DIY belt rock shield, BajaRon swaybar, frunk 12v outlet
Concur with LJ. If you haven't done it before, you need two friends: (1) a buddy who has bled brakes before; and (2) search of this website. You don't need to bleed the VCM (ABS) but you need to be really really careful not to let air into the system. Check the fluid reservoirs every three pumps of the brake pedal! If they go dry you have hours of work ahead. I recommend ATE 200 for brake fluid because, among other reasons, it comes in a metal container.
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
I had a recall completed on my 2020 RTL recently and inquired about a brake fluid change. I believe it is supposed to be done every two years. Seems the process is long and complicated if ALL the fluid is drained and replaced, including the ABS. I was told it was a 5-6 hour job to complete. At shop rates, that sounds very expensive just to change the fluid. I know it requires their computer to properly do the job. If my calculations are correct, I could pay upwards of $700 just to change the brake fluid.
Does this seem right? I do know I want good brakes and good brakes do cost....and I know these toys come with spending more money...
Just wondering what others are doing and/or paying to service their brake fluid.
Hey Chiefburg, look this fluid post over. I was quoted $841.50 in labor. Goto anybody local friendly spyder rider with BUDS, can do it much cheaper
Mine takes about 15 or 20 minutes and costs maybe $8. Got speed bleeders on all 3 wheels and a hand vacuum pump to pull the fluid through to a catch jar.
Made all the vacuum bleeder system myself with an old surplus lab pump a gallon jug, and some tubing. Been using it for years, It don't leave enough of the old fluid in the system to even detect a different color.
I use the same vacuum brake bleeder on all the other brands I work on and to bleed hydraulic steering pumps and other things that have to be opened up.
I change the fluid in the Spyder without BUDS. If I was worried about the tiny amount of old fluid left in the system, it would be easy enough to change it, ride it, then change it again. Might cost $16, and the tiny amount of old fluid would be so diluted with new fluid it would be completely insignificant.
Reminder proper Sequence please. sitting on bike TIA
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
I paid $300 Cdn for a brake flush at the dealer, excluded the ABS module.
2019 F3 base
Shad saddlebags with Admore led light kit
BajaRon swaybar
Hopnel mini bra
BRP driver's backrest
Madstad windshield
Ultimate floorboards
CanAm Spyder accessories rear shelf with LinQ adapter
I was charged 3 hrs time to change the brake fluid out. Asked why it takes so long. Was told it's a time consuming job. $130 per hour. Wont pay them again to do that job. Be buying speed bleeders for when its time again.
IMHO you don't have to be a CanAm spyder tech to change the brake fluid ..... anyone that can do a car, truck, or any Mtc. can do the Spyder. .... If you can't, bring speed bleeders to any mechanic, have the bleeders put on gat the task done ..... As far as including the ABS system, does it NEED to be done???? .... The amount of fluid is very small and won't noticebly effect your Braking power .... good luck ... Mike
Sounds like almost everybody up your way is getting totally ripped with a brake fluid change charges.
Estimated times and stuff are total crap.
If you can open a bleeder valve with a spanner and pour some fluid into a cup you can do this. If you dont have a Scooby-Doo (clue) how to do it well watch some online stuff and put the hundreds of $$ towards worthwhile.
My "dealer" loves to sell spyders and hates to service them. Lots of push back when I call. I'm always looking for anyone else to work on the spyder: including me.
the dealer wanted $550 for a brake fluid change.
Nope.
My barely experienced hands and eyes and arms plus speed bleeders and some good brake fluid plus a couple hours jacking, blocking, draining and filling = job done.
I don't hurry and my work space is not designed for work. Others have better space, better tools and most likely more experience, so time to change brake fluid will vary.
Degree of difficulty? 1 on a scale of zero to ten.
2015 ST Limited; Givi E52 Top Case; Baja Ron anti-sway bar; Cal Sci wind screen; Vredestein Quatracs (Front).
The hand vacuum pump is $25 at Harbor Freight. That plus the cost of a can of the best brake fluid you can find.
Chip
2020 RTL
"Stella by Starlight"
UltraGard Full Cover, Front & Rear Cup Holders, Elka Stage 2 Rear Shock, TC & Dave Signal Button, Spyder Extras Sway Bar
The hand vacuum pump is $25 at Harbor Freight. That plus the cost of a can of the best brake fluid you can find.
And enough clear plastic tubing so that you can sit side of the master cylinder and keep it filled full enough that no air bubbles get sucked into the lines while you are pulling the new fluid into the brake lines.
This is basically what I use with the hand brake bleeder pump. You could just use a quart Mason jar with the tubing epoxied into the lid. I use a half gallon clear glass jug. Sometimes have to remove over-filled oil in small engines, or pull some other over-filled liquid out of something. The catch jar is just to drop the liquid into and prevent it from being sucked into the little hand pump. With the larger jug, you can suck engine oil out of small gas engines for people who have put a quart or more too much oil in them.
You can build the catch jar for less that $5, or maybe for free if you have the tubing and stoppers laying around.
You dont absolutely need speed bleeders or any type of pump.
If you can find someone to operate the brake and keep an eye on the master cylinder fluid level you dont absolutely need speed bleeders.
Bit of tubing and a jar . A big syringe is helpful to suck out all the old fluid in the master cyl, or you could siphon it with the tubing I guess.
Someone asked for the bleeding sequence.
The answer supplied was.... B left, right, rear.
Rule of thumb, you bleed the furthermost from the slave cyl first. Keep pumping it until you have fresh, clean and clear fluid. Then work forwards.
I have no idea what B left, right, rear. is code for.
Not sure why you would pull the old fluid from the master cylinder. I open the master cylinder cover so I can watch the level, but pull the old fluid out the brake bleeders. As the level in the master cylinder goes down, new fluid is added. Continue to pull the fluid from the brake bleeders until you get clean, new fluid. Then move on around to the other brake bleeder valves.
Doing it like this will purge almost all the old fluid from the brake lines and the brake cylinders. If you pull the old fluid out of the master cylinder, how does that ever purge the old fluid from the brake lines?
You can't reverse flush using speed bleeders because of the check valve. I guess you could reverse flush with the OEM bleeders, but what is the advantage of that?
Not sure why you would pull the old fluid from the master cylinder. I open the master cylinder cover so I can watch the level, but pull the old fluid out the brake bleeders. As the level in the master cylinder goes down, new fluid is added. Continue to pull the fluid from the brake bleeders until you get clean, new fluid. Then move on around to the other brake bleeder valves.
I guess removing the old fluid from the cup and topping up with new shortens up the process.
Why pump old crappy fluid if you done have to?
Doing it like this will purge almost all the old fluid from the brake lines
Isnt the job to purge the old fluid?
You can't reverse flush using speed bleeders because of the check valve. I guess you could reverse flush with the OEM bleeders, but what is the advantage of that?
Reverse flushing. What's that about.
Normal valve. Apply pressure to brake and hold. Open the valve with a tube into a jar, let it flow, shut the valve. Let the brake return. Check fluid level and repeat.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-29-2023 at 07:42 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)
... That plus the cost of a can of the best brake fluid you can find.
You have to be careful with the term "best". Some will insist that the best brake fluid is DOT5 because it's a higher number than DOT3 or DOT4. The problem is that DOT5 is NOT compatible, and should not be used.
I have not looked to see if the Spyder requires DOT4 instead of DOT3, but you can safely use DOT4 when DOT3 is called for.
Not sure why you would pull the old fluid from the master cylinder. I open the master cylinder cover so I can watch the level, but pull the old fluid out the brake bleeders. As the level in the master cylinder goes down, new fluid is added. Continue to pull the fluid from the brake bleeders until you get clean, new fluid. Then move on around to the other brake bleeder valves.
I guess removing the old fluid from the cup and topping up with new shortens up the process.
Why pump old crappy fluid if you done have to?
Doing it like this will purge almost all the old fluid from the brake lines
Isnt the job to purge the old fluid?
You can't reverse flush using speed bleeders because of the check valve. I guess you could reverse flush with the OEM bleeders, but what is the advantage of that?
Reverse flushing. What's that about.
Normal valve. Apply pressure to brake and hold. Open the valve with a tube into a jar, let it flow, shut the valve. Let the brake return. Check fluid level and repeat.
I guess you could do it like that. I just pull it through the lines with a small, hand vacuum pump. Never leave the shop stool side of the master cylinder. Never have to pump the brakes. It takes about 15 minutes, and all done. Speed bleeders are the easiest way. Even if you pump or siphon the old fluid from the master cylinder, you are still having to move it, and emptying the master cylinder is another chance for air bubbles to get in the brake lines. That is one reason I pull the old fluid out and never let the master cylinder get less than about half full. Trying to purge air from lines that have high loops in them is worse than changing the fluid. The vacuum pump and the speed bleeders can prevent any air bubbles from ever entering the system. Brake pressure will be rock solid first time you step on the pedal.
Everybody can do it their own way. I just find the speed bleeders and the little hand vacuum pump easier.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-29-2023 at 07:43 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)