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P0351 error and Check Engine Light on - any help/advice?
Hello everyone i need your spyder help. I recently bought a 2008 spyder sm5 in hawaii, this is my first ever motorcycle. I love it however only got to ride it three times before my check engine light came on. Learned online how to selfcheck for code. We have no brp on any island. Any solutions on a self fix. The code is for ignition coil. Anyone else had this issue, if so how did you fix it. Thank you all in advance for your knowledge.
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Is the engine misfiring or running rough? Could be bad plug wires. You can do a basic check to see if you have battery voltage at the coil connector. Coil connector pin 2 to ground and see if you have battery voltage. If you do then you need to check coil resistance. At the coil check pin 2 to pin 1 then pin 2 to pin 3. Resistance should be about .3 to .6 ohms. My bet is bad plug wires. How many miles on the Spyder? Have the plugs, wires been replaced?
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P0351 = Ignition coil stage 1 short to 12V or to ground.
Cause = Blown fuse, damaged circuit wires, damaged connector, damaged or disconnected ignition coil.
Service Action = Check Fuse F8; Measure resistance from harness connector: 5-ECM-A1 to 5-COIL-1 (Expected value: < 2 ohms);
Measure voltage between harness connector 5-COIL-2 and ground (Expected value: 11 to 13 volts);
Check connector HIC that connects engine harness to the vehicle harness;
Refer to the service manual for detailed ignition coil testing procedure.
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Sometimes, pulling the side panel, where you check your oil, and running the engine with the lights out, i.e. that would be in the dark, will show arcing on the plug wires if it's bad. More than likely, it is those wires. Check with BajaRon for better wires and plugs...
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-27-2024 at 08:03 PM.
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
Wasn't BRP installing a ground wire on the coil at one time?...My 2009 had a recall I believe,but never did know why it was done..
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Originally Posted by cyclelover63
Wasn't BRP installing a ground wire on the coil at one time?...My 2009 had a recall I believe,but never did know why it was done..
Yes, there was a service bulletin for the 2008 SE (and maybe 2009) calling for adding a pair of ground wires to the coil. It actually affected SE shifting, not the ignition, if I remember correctly.
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I had a P0352 which turned out to be a bad ECM and it was running on only one cylinder (not fun as I was 5ml from home) I believe the two codes P0351 & P0352 reflect whether it's cylinder 1 or 2. As they said, check the connections and the ground, but I hope you have some warranty coverage.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-27-2024 at 08:05 PM.
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It could be the ECM, the coil, a connection, or even a bad plug wire or bad plug that burned out one side of the coil. Not likely a low battery, with only one code, but voltage should be checked as shown above, anyway. These do take some troubleshooting, and without the help of a tech, the shop manual would be the best aid.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-27-2024 at 08:05 PM.
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I have the same code P0351 - I have changed plugs, wires, & coil, but my question is on a P0351, will the code clear itself since it's in limp home mode, or does it have to go to the dealer to be cleared and reset?
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-27-2024 at 08:06 PM.
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Hi does anyone know what this p code means - P0351 NO IGNITION OUTPUT STAGE CYLINDER 1? thanks
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-27-2024 at 08:14 PM.
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P0351 module:RS/GS
Ignition coil stage 1 short to 12V or to ground.Check fuse F8.
Blown fuse or disconnected ignition coil
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Download the spyder codes app (free) for all the info. Great to have with you wherever you go... but see above for a quick answer...
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-27-2024 at 08:14 PM.
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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RSS Ignition coil - how do I test?
We have a 2013 RSS (2012 build) that ran fine last Thursday, go to fire it up on Friday morning, starts, but sounds like only 1 cyl is working, engine check light on. Had to go away on the weekend so left it until today. Pulled up code P0351, ign coil short A which means for the front cyl or fuse which is ok. checked the lead, appears to be no continuity, getting 2.4k on the rear one. OK, may have a faulty lead, didnt get spark at the plug either, but to be certain how do I check the wiring for the coil or the coil itself? Would a faulty lead bring up a code? The plug itself looks OK, new around 13000 ks ago. If there was no spark at all I'd expect it to be wet. Am I on the right track if I just replace the lead? Thanks for any input.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-27-2024 at 08:12 PM.
Reason: Title
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I don't recall the pinout, but one winding should be about 1 - 2ohms (12V side). The second would be a couple K for the high voltage. I'd grab a PDF of the shop manual for $20. Actually the coil is really cheap on cheapcycleparts.com, I replaced mine. Only to find out later it was a cracked plug. But now has a fresh coil pack. I'd suspect the coil pack itself, as the computer monitors current draw to devices (coil, headlights, tail lights, etc.). If it draws too much it will pop a code. Harnesses just don't short, unless a rat has chewed on it
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Very Active Member
A less technical approach would be to check the 12v leads for power. If you get 12v at the plug, be sure the connectors are in good condition and that there is good contact between the terminals on the coil. Then stick a well insulated screwdriver into the coil output. If you can't get close to a good ground. Rig up a stiff wire, like a clothes hanger, etc. to make this possible. Hold the metal portion of the screwdriver about 1/8" - 3/8" from your ground point and crank the Spyder. These steps should verify a failure in the system and pinpoint the problem. If you get good spark in this test. Then it is something downstream. Ignition wire or spark plug.
Last edited by BajaRon; 03-16-2020 at 05:29 PM.
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ok, new coil, leads, plugs, getting 12v at center pin on plug, still no go on front cyl, might have to put it in shop, presumably power comes in then goes out to sensors/pickup or ecu?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by spyderchris-nz
ok, new coil, leads, plugs, getting 12v at center pin on plug, still no go on front cyl, might have to put it in shop, presumably power comes in then goes out to sensors/pickup or ecu?
I was afraid of that. Coils don't go out that often. Maybe an ECU issue. Let us know what the fix ends up being.
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Active Member
2010 RS PO351 error and check engine light on
On the way back from morning coffee... had trouble getting the RS to start but it did... with the check engine light on. It felt like running noisy or worse, but it could be that I was just freaked out... first time I've had old faithful less than faithful with 23k on the machine. I figured out how to pull a code on it... and found P0351 with the check engine light blazing. Found somewhere to check F8 circuit (15amp) and fuse was good but replaced it anyways and no love. Anyone have any idea of what this might be short of an $ECM (found that possibility too). Ugh...
Thanks everyone.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-27-2024 at 08:09 PM.
Reason: Removed Post title after merge - they mess with Searching! ;-)
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Very Active Member
Well, searched for forum posts regarding that code. You read through them, also. #1 coil, no output. Running on one cylinder. The coil always tested good. Get it checked just in case, though. Appears as though ECM replacement was the fix on your machine. You might try unplugging and reconnecting those coil and ECM connectors first if you want. But... usually not successful. Sorry.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-31-2024 at 04:50 PM.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, RLS CD w/ baffle, P238
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Very Active Member
Have you ever changed your plugs and wires?
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Active Member
No, I haven't changed them... I might try that... ughhhh. Thanks Guys.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-31-2024 at 04:50 PM.
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Active Member
Will report back... on hold as I'm in Texas for awhile for my father's memorial and helping mother. Will circle back in a few weeks. Thanks for the information everyone... this is always a great site to visit and learn from. Great Spyder community!
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Active Member
Home from Texas heat... if it's the ECM, can I replace without BUDS? I see a number of them for my year are offered on Ebay... or other sources? I'm sure it will be expensive if dragged to a dealer. Thanks. Glad to be home after many miles in the cage.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-31-2024 at 04:51 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by WisconsinDavid
Home from Texas heat... if it's the ECM, can I replace without BUDS? I see a number of them for my year are offered on Ebay... or other sources? I'm sure it will be expensive if dragged to a dealer. Thanks. Glad to be home after many miles in the cage.
I'm not sure that starting with the most expensive fix is the way to go. The OEM spark plug wires are notorious for giving you misfire issues. If you've got 20k or more on your Spyder, even if the ignition wires aren't the cause of your current issues, you're going to need them sooner or later anyway. Put new Iridium IX plugs in while you're there. Take the opportunity to check for oil in the airbox, clean your possibly sticking, gummy throttle bodies (from the oil in the airbox) and replace the 2 small vacuum hoses on the throttle body as well. You might be happily surprised at the results.
If not, you can always move on to the more expensive options.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 08-31-2024 at 04:52 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)
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