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The oil plug- Murphy showed up today.
I have done many oil changes on my Spyders over the years and never had an issue. Today Murphy stopped by and stripped out the head of the transmission plug. I ordered the upgraded oil plugs from value accessories. I am hoping an easy-out will grip the plug enough to remove it. Those darn BRP engineers should be fired. Even an experienced mechanic can run into this problem.
Update: easy-out took the plug right out. It was very tight. I must have been extra strong the last time I changed the oil. All fixed forever now!
IMG_20230505_140312285.jpgIMG_20230505_140317067.jpg
Last edited by Joel The Biker; 05-05-2023 at 01:19 PM.
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That stinks. I switched to gold plugs from Amazon on the second oil change.
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I've always been concerned with the torque needed for a liquid seal using metal washers with aluminum and instead use NBR metal bonded sealing washers at the low end of the torque range. Other members also use them.
Best wishes for plug removal.
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Joel The Biker
I have done many oil changes on my Spyders over the years and never had an issue. Today Murphy stopped by and stripped out the head of the transmission plug.
Dam....
What torque setting are you using for that transmission plug?
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Originally Posted by Joel The Biker
I have done many oil changes on my Spyders over the years and never had an issue. Today Murphy stopped by and stripped out the head of the transmission plug. I ordered the upgraded oil plugs from value accessories. I am hoping an easy-out will grip the plug enough to remove it. Those darn BRP engineers should be fired. Even an experienced mechanic can run into this problem.
If you are replacing the plug anyway, you can drill the plug deep enough to set the easy-out. Harbor Freight even has left-handed drill bits so not to make the problem any worse.
Chip
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Very Active Member
Many problems have been observed by torquing the oil plugs. Just hand tighten the plugs and then 1/4 turn with a wrench.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER
Many problems have been observed by torquing the oil plugs. Just hand tighten the plugs and then 1/4 turn with a wrench.
Yeah my mistake, what on earth was I thinking?
Torques Pifft.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Joel The Biker
I have done many oil changes on my Spyders over the years and never had an issue. Today Murphy stopped by and stripped out the head of the transmission plug. I ordered the upgraded oil plugs from value accessories. I am hoping an easy-out will grip the plug enough to remove it. Those darn BRP engineers should be fired. Even an experienced mechanic can run into this problem.
I also had to use a easy-out. I did not have to drill the plug, just tapped it in and removed it.
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Very Active Member
Jack it up high enough to get a short swing with a hammer. Take the plastic under there off, if it is in the way. You can tap the edges of the plug with a small cold chisel, or maybe a center punch ground to a small flat on the end. The stuck plug should begin to turn. Be sure you are tapping in the right direction. It is upside down. I have took lots of them out like that, not just on Spyders, but on all kind of vehicles. Don't need to hit it hard, just steady tapping. Hitting it too hard will cut the edges off the plug. You don't want to cut into the plug, just tap hard enough to keep a bump pressure in the direction to remove the plug.
I use the fiber sandwich washers on the oil plugs. The fiber washers are for oil drain plugs on many foreign cars. You can get a whole box of them for a couple dollars. Just hand tight is plenty on the oil plugs. If it is leaking, you will be able to see the oil drops under it. Never had one leak just hand tight with a 3/8 shorty ratchet.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=x+autohau...ref=nb_sb_noss
14.5 x 17.7 x 1.2 mm
12.4 x 17.7 x 1.2 mm
Last edited by Gwolf; 04-30-2023 at 12:53 PM.
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Thanks for advice on this. I had a mechanic change oil last time and he said he had trouble so I was wondering about the easy out. I have replacement plugs so I'm prepared there.
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Use oil extractor on Spyder?
I owned a fancy car that recommended, almost demanded, I use an oil suction extractor for changing oil instead of the drain plug. I'd never thought about it, but inboard boat motors have a heck of a problem with oil changes... Hard to get "under" 'em. I used one of these pumps from West Marine to change oil in a variety of vehicles, including the afore mentioned fancy car. You still get messy with the filter change, but the oil change is much neater.
Of course this doesn't fix today's problem, but it does offer an end-around to the situation.
https://www.westmarine.com/west-mari...-11047123.html
-- Joe B.
(new rider awaiting the arrival of a new 2022 RTL)
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Active Member
Originally Posted by JKMSPYDER
Many problems have been observed by torquing the oil plugs. Just hand tighten the plugs and then 1/4 turn with a wrench.
2014 RTL bought in 3/20 with only 6,000 mi.
Came with Garmin 660
Car tires in 5/20; Elka stage 2 front shocks in 10/21
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Joel The Biker
I have done many oil changes on my Spyders over the years and never had an issue. Today Murphy stopped by and stripped out the head of the transmission plug. I ordered the upgraded oil plugs from value accessories. I am hoping an easy-out will grip the plug enough to remove it. Those darn BRP engineers should be fired. Even an experienced mechanic can run into this problem.
Spyders for as long as I can remember have had a Varnish issue that makes them hard to re-move ....unless you rap the socket fairly hard to break it free. ..... good luck .... Mike
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by liv2cod
I owned a fancy car that recommended, almost demanded, I use an oil suction extractor for changing oil instead of the drain plug. I'd never thought about it, but inboard boat motors have a heck of a problem with oil changes... Hard to get "under" 'em. I used one of these pumps from West Marine to change oil in a variety of vehicles, including the afore mentioned fancy car. You still get messy with the filter change, but the oil change is much neater.
Of course this doesn't fix today's problem, but it does offer an end-around to the situation.
https://www.westmarine.com/west-mari...-11047123.html
-- Joe B.
(new rider awaiting the arrival of a new 2022 RTL)
How do you get the suction tube through the drain galleries into the lower sump?
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SpyderLovers Ambassador
Oil Drain
...Well folks the only way to get all or most of the Oil out is to remove the drain plug. The Spyder Engine has several compartments.Trying to get out the Oil with a suction tool just doesn't work. So Sorry to say.
Do yourself a favor and carefully read your manual. Then you should not have to many issues. Just wanted everyone to know and understand about Oil drain problems.
Stay Healthy and Be Safe. ....
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
Ryde with a Friend and be Safe
My Spyder ..... 'Little Blue-Boy'
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Active Member
I got lucky, I just did an oil change a couple weeks ago and had gotten the "standard" replacement plugs from Lamonster. The torx plug was no issue, but the allen plug was almost rounded out. They're both out now and replaced.
2014 RT-S Orange - LED headlights/driving lights, LED under mirror turns, LED brake/run lights along trunk and saddlebags, LED third brake light, LED turn bulb replacements, Magic Mirrors, Voltmeter, Oil PSI gauge, heated gear connection, BRP backrest, dash Mount USB plug, Lamonster belt tensioner, Baja Ron sway bar, NBV highway pegs, BRP arm rests M2 suspension.
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Got my torque values reversed (Duh) and striped the trans plug, thought I would have to get out the ez outs. I was able to remove it with my fingers. No tools needed.
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Originally Posted by chipveres
If you are replacing the plug anyway, you can drill the plug deep enough to set the easy-out. Harbor Freight even has left-handed drill bits so not to make the problem any worse.
Chip
Even though I have a Harbor Freight within a few minutes of my house, I have found that not everybody is similarly blessed.
However, ... I have also seen left-handed drill bits at Auto Zone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's, etc. THEY are on just about every street corner.
.
HER ride:
2017 RT-S SE6 Pearl White
My rides:
2000 Honda GL1500SE
1980 Suzuki GS850G
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Very Active Member
Do you think a dab or 2 of that J B Weld could sort this.
rockert arm .jpg
Rocket Arm Iso
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I had the same problem on my 2010 RS SE5, but the Allen head that stripped out was on the bottom of the engine. Fortunately there was like a 16th of an inch that I was able to get a pair of vice grips on and knock it loose. I replaced that plug, as well as the HCM plug with Gold Plugs that have a hex head for sockets. I agree with you about the “engineer” that designed the OEM system. I have an intense dislike for engineers. Everything is amazing on paper drawings, but they haven’t a clue about what we go through in the real world.
~~2010 RS SE5 My first Spidey, but not my first ride~~
The trigger’s been pulled. We have to
get there before the hammer falls.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Isopedella
Do you think a dab or 2 of that J B Weld could sort this.
rockert arm .jpg
Rocket Arm Iso
What is that? Is that metal? If you put a backing piece on it JB might hold it.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
What is that? Is that metal? If you put a backing piece on it JB might hold it.
Thanks for the reply, but it's just a random plucked from the net.
I guess it is a graphic reminder those who poo poo Torques and offer advice to all to just to do it up and what may occur.
While some appreciate how soft some of these metals are on the bikes others really have no idea and it can lead to unnecessary damage and tricky remedies.
Like my thread on the 3rd peg mount bolt torque value for example.
Just do it up was offered.
That bolt had to be quite tight to hold the dropper and peg in place when my full munchkin body weight went on it.
Imagine how much of a job to fix that if it stripped out?
Not everybody here can turn a nut, resulting in damaged and stripped threads.
Non Rocket Arm
Iso
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Edit.
To those who say torque values are a waste of time.
Well put up.
Provide examples of that claim
where a correctly torqued bolt
in the correct spot
has caused problems.
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I did read where the bloke was doing his best to refit the plugs got them mixed and over torqued one.
Commiserations.
At least you were attempting to do the job to a high degree of competency but got a little lost along the way.
Last edited by Isopedella; 05-04-2023 at 02:09 PM.
Reason: wast ;-)
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Gwolf
How do you get the suction tube through the drain galleries into the lower sump?
j
You can't. I used mine several times on my previous F3 and it pulls out about 3 quarts.
Not recommending this, but if you can no longer get down and do a proper change, its better than nothing.
Works great on my two cars though.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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Very Active Member
'
Next time your under the , Raised up a bit, take a Dremel tool to the opening in the plastic pan on both bolts. Soooo much easier and cleaner to drain out the oil.
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Lew L
'
Next time your under the , Raised up a bit, take a Dremel tool to the opening in the plastic pan on both bolts. Soooo much easier and cleaner to drain out the oil.
Lew L
Or just take the plastic off and leave it off. Makes it cooler in the summer.
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