-
Member
We Owe the BRP Engineers a Lot!
Well, I just experienced my first maintenance round with my wifey's 2013 ST-L. Plugs, wires, air filter, install three chargers and repair the outlet, oil change, coolant flush, front tires, all brakes, and replace the under body deflectors. I have to hand it to BRP for their engineering prowess! When I think of the standard set for engineers these days, these guys were ahead of their time ten years ago! I am always giving credit where credit is due and they deserve a bunch! never would I have thought that such simple tasks could be made more complicated than an engine swap, but they did it! Never would I have thought of requiring part of a frame to need disassembled to access a single spark plug! And the way the panels come off and go on? man they really eclipsed the jig saw puzzles of modern vehicles! Making it easier to open a thermostat with hot water vs just being able to pull it and replace it each time? Give these engineers an award for being so far beyond the stereotype of today's crews! Let's not forget the fact that more effort went into quieting the intake than the exhaust and taking up that free space inside for such a monstrosity (deleted in hers now). Yeah! we all owe them a thanks for the extra time they absorb in each of our lives!
Ok, on the serious side, it was a nightmare. I have done engine/trans swaps in half the time it took me to get to the front plug. I only hope that I did it right and it runs better on the road. We have only tested it in the neighborhood so far.
I ride to feel free
I vote to stay free
I serve to be free
2013 Spyder ST-L 15k miles
-
Active Member
I replaced my stock air intake with an after market air filter, Now the whole engine is exposed, working on it is a cinch.
2013 Spyder ST-SE5
US Army 1971-1973
Army Guard 1990
Air Guard 1991-2010
-
Very Active Member
Tupperware-Canadian origami believe more headaches blame falls on project management types ;unreasonable budgeted timelines. At least my experiences
2013 STL SE5 BLACK CURRANT
SpyderPop's: LED bumpskid
SmoothSpyder: dualmode back rest
T r * * LED:foam grip covers, Tricrings, FenderZ,
brake light strips, wide vue mirrors
Rivico SOMA modulation brake leds
sawblade mowhalk fender accents
minispyder dash toy
Lid lox
KradelLock
Pakitrack
GENSSI ELITE LED H4 headlights
FLO (Frunk Lid Organizer)
BRP fog lights, trailer hitch
SENA 20S EVO
-
Very Active Member
https://gnipsel.com/spyder/? is the place where you can get a smaller Air cleaner system that gives you much more open area around the engine.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
-
IMO, the only thing these engineers deserve is to have to work on their nightmare.
A simple oil change that requires replacement parts for the mirror, 6 bolts big enough to hold a whole fender on a car to retain an aero plastic piece of tupperware, 5 o rings of various sizes, and that ridiculous cartridge filter is definitely engineering at its best.
Now, SlingMods magic mirrors are an engineering piece of work!
-
Very Active Member
Sadly, a bit facetious, but totally true.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
-
I can't speak to the 990cc engine but for the 1330cc engine I think the BRP engineers did a great job of providing a safe, reliable, multi-national and multi-style machine at a affordable price point. They achieved this by integrating existing components and subsystems from other vendors into their chassis and bodywork. Yeah much of that bodywork must come off for maintenance but for the most part it's more time-consuming than difficult (except those scary mirrors). The most difficult maintenance action is rear tire pressure and no bodywork is involved. So I'm happy with BRP's engineers product.
PS I had a Moto Guzzi Norge and that was a bodywork challenge. But it was gorgeous so I bought it. And it was stupidly fast so I gave it away while I still had my license.
Last edited by BertRemington; 04-03-2023 at 03:22 PM.
Reason: typo
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT-S SE6 Freeway Commuter Pod
2016 Royal Enfield Classic 500 Fair-Weather Mountain Bike
-
Active Member
Engineering at its best. Changing the air filter on an 1800 Goldwing, better part of 4/5 hours or more - not rushing (BTDT). Air filter cost approximately $20.00 or so. Clutch bleed/flush on an 1800, better part of three hours, well buried behind front lower cowlings (BTDT). Have heard that some Volkswagen's have to have the engines lowered/removed to change timing belts. Lots of examples I guess.
Design engineers should have to work on their prototype design before unleashing the design on the unsuspecting dealers and owners - maybe make some changes? The harder an item is to get to for maintenance/replacement, the probability of it not being done is very likely, even if the dealer or whomever says it's done.
"When Writing the Story of Your Life, Don’t Let Anyone Else Hold the Pen"
"Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears.” – Les Brown
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT LE
1985 Honda GL1200 Goldwing Limited Edition
Ernest
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by RangerRick
I replaced my stock air intake with an after market air filter, Now the whole engine is exposed, working on it is a cinch.
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
https://gnipsel.com/spyder/? is the place where you can get a smaller Air cleaner system that gives you much more open area around the engine.
So these smaller after market air filters..
Is there increased noise with the smaller air filter as a replacement for the oem air cleaner/muffler?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
That link took me to
Spyders to the Rescue
A database of Spyder Owners that can
come to the aid of stranded Spyder Ryders.
-
Isopedella, I don't believe the air filter swap that they are referencing is for the 1300 series Rotax. .Bill
2020 RTL Chrome, Marsala Red "Non-Directional Tires, Centramatic Balancers"
Front- Kumho KH-16 175/55r15 @17psi, Rear-General Altimax RT-45 215/60r15 @20psi
BaJa Ron Ultra 3 pcs sway bar kit
10W40 Amsoil Synthetic Motorcycle oil
7jurock 25" tinted windscreen w/flip
Frogman Dave's "Signal Button"
If in Doubt, Don't Do It!
" Pros: Excellent Bug Killer, Cons: Pizz Poor Pothole Dodger"
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by Isopedella
So these smaller after market air filters..
Is there increased noise with the smaller air filter as a replacement for the oem air cleaner/muffler?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
That link took me to
Spyders to the Rescue
A database of Spyder Owners that can
come to the aid of stranded Spyder Ryders.
Oh yes it really howls when you crank on it, but the kid in me loves this sound. reminds me of the sound of Rochester Quadra-Jet Carburetor on a Chevy V-8 ( you have to be an old duffer like me to remember that sound.)
2013 Spyder ST-SE5
US Army 1971-1973
Army Guard 1990
Air Guard 1991-2010
-
Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie
Originally Posted by Rednaxs60
Engineering at its best. Changing the air filter on an 1800 Goldwing, better part of 4/5 hours or more - not rushing (BTDT). Air filter cost approximately $20.00 or so. Clutch bleed/flush on an 1800, better part of three hours, well buried behind front lower cowlings (BTDT). Have heard that some Volkswagen's have to have the engines lowered/removed to change timing belts. Lots of examples I guess.
Design engineers should have to work on their prototype design before unleashing the design on the unsuspecting dealers and owners - maybe make some changes? The harder an item is to get to for maintenance/replacement, the probability of it not being done is very likely, even if the dealer or whomever says it's done.
A little Mazda I hadta work on a while back, shoulda been what I thought would be a simple belt replacement....
The Workshop Manual listed it as a 3-day job, with over 20 hours of billable labour time....
First step in the Manual "1. Remove Engine, Transmission, & Front Wheel Drive Assembly from the body...."
But this sorta thing is nothing new, I had cause to remove the (alloy) head on a 4 litre side-valve 6 motor in a 1949 Humber Super Snipe - the instructions in the Manual were to "Loosen all the Head Bolts, leaving them in place but just started in their thread", then "Once the Head Bolts are all loose, start and run the motor at idle, leaving it running until it stops, which may take some time." It did - take some time that is.... most of a day before it just sighed to a stop as the 'just started' head bolts stopped the head blowing off suddenly! There was no gasket between the cast block & the alloy head, so over time the head adhered to the block, and running it with no head bolts done up was truly the only way to get it off! Mind you, that particular car/engine was getting well toward all the 9's on its second trip around the odometer, so it was well fused!
But it's clear BRP Engineers don't have a monopoly on doing things that make everyone else's life miserable, it seems they're just more talented than most - or instructed/paid to be more inventive!!
2013 RT Ltd Pearl White
Ryde More, Worry Less!
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
https://gnipsel.com/spyder/? is the place where you can get a smaller Air cleaner system that gives you much more open area around the engine.
I thought I saw a post that he's out of business. To bad because I wanted to look into that system, thinking about doing the wires and plugs on mine and don't want to deal with the air box more than once!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 04-04-2023 at 04:49 AM.
Reason: say - saw ;-)
-
Member
Originally Posted by Rednaxs60
Engineering at its best. Changing the air filter on an 1800 Goldwing, better part of 4/5 hours or more - not rushing (BTDT). Air filter cost approximately $20.00 or so. Clutch bleed/flush on an 1800, better part of three hours, well buried behind front lower cowlings (BTDT). Have heard that some Volkswagen's have to have the engines lowered/removed to change timing belts. Lots of examples I guess.
Design engineers should have to work on their prototype design before unleashing the design on the unsuspecting dealers and owners - maybe make some changes? The harder an item is to get to for maintenance/replacement, the probability of it not being done is very likely, even if the dealer or whomever says it's done.
Think about it though. If the maintenance isn't done they may sell another sooner?
Originally Posted by RangerRick
Oh yes it really howls when you crank on it, but the kid in me loves this sound. reminds me of the sound of Rochester Quadra-Jet Carburetor on a Chevy V-8 ( you have to be an old duffer like me to remember that sound.)
I love the sound of rushing air, so it wouldn't bother me. I put myself on a list to get the AF kit when BajaRon gets a few available.
I ride to feel free
I vote to stay free
I serve to be free
2013 Spyder ST-L 15k miles
-
Active Member
Originally Posted by gdcpony
Think about it though. If the maintenance isn't done they may sell another sooner?
I love the sound of rushing air, so it wouldn't bother me. I put myself on a list to get the AF kit when BajaRon gets a few available.
Here is where I got mine
https://spyderstore.com/index.php?ro...&product_id=50
2013 Spyder ST-SE5
US Army 1971-1973
Army Guard 1990
Air Guard 1991-2010
-
Very Active Member
Engineers in general seem to have design priorities of
1 Cram 10 lbs of {stuff} into a 5 lb bag
2 Make it look good
3 Make it last 3 yrs
4 Figure out how it repair it efficiently
5 Come in under budget and get a bonus.
6 Let Marketing figure out how much to charge.
(4 is often skipped to achieve 5)
'20 Spyder RT: Bajaron swaybar. Vredestein tires, Pedal Commander, Elka front shocks, GPS/USB/12V handlebar mount, Heli-Bars, Radar Detector, KOTT grills & vents, Shad top case, chin & DRL LEDs.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Peter Aawen
A little Mazda I hadta work on a while back, shoulda been what I thought would be a simple belt replacement....
The Workshop Manual listed it as a 3-day job, with over 20 hours of billable labour time....
First step in the Manual " 1. Remove Engine, Transmission, & Front Wheel Drive Assembly from the body...."
But this sorta thing is nothing new, I had cause to remove the (alloy) head on a 4 litre side-valve 6 motor in a 1949 Humber Super Snipe - the instructions in the Manual were to " Loosen all the Head Bolts, leaving them in place but just started in their thread", then " Once the Head Bolts are all loose, start and run the motor at idle, leaving it running until it stops, which may take some time." It did - take some time that is.... most of a day before it just sighed to a stop as the 'just started' head bolts stopped the head blowing off suddenly! There was no gasket between the cast block & the alloy head, so over time the head adhered to the block, and running it with no head bolts done up was truly the only way to get it off! Mind you, that particular car/engine was getting well toward all the 9's on its second trip around the odometer, so it was well fused!
But it's clear BRP Engineers don't have a monopoly on doing things that make everyone else's life miserable, it seems they're just more talented than most - or instructed/paid to be more inventive!!
Over here one of the 60's Cadillac's needed the rear bumper assembly re-moved to change tail light bulbs .....Mike
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|