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Active Member
Skinning my homebuilt trailer - ideas? How did you attach the metal?
Good morning,
Looking for ideas and opinions on this please. I am thinking of using 26ga sheet metal for the skin on my pull-behind homebuilt. I guess that's this first thing I'll be looking for opinions on. Has anyone else done that, and how did it work out?
Most importantly, how did you attach it? Looking for ideas and opinions there. I am looking at using the Loctite Weld Bonding Compound, any experience with that? The frame is steel tubing.
I suppose I could rivet the skin on ... or am I missing a better way?
I was hoping to avoid the riveted look.
What has been used and done on other home-builts?
Thanks
Mike
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-04-2023 at 09:04 AM.
Reason: Expanded title to briefly ask the question... ;-)
2021 RT Limited in Marsala Red & chrome (9/20)
2006 Yamaha Royal Star Venture - Black Cherry
2003 Suzuki Volusia - Black w/ Gold
1973 Honda CL350 - Hawaiian Blue
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Mike0123
Good morning,
Looking for ideas and opinions on this please. I am thinking of using 26ga sheet metal for the skin on my pull-behind homebuilt. I guess that's this first thing I'll be looking for opinions on. Has anyone else done that, and how did it work out?
Most importantly, how did you attach it? Looking for ideas and opinions there. I am looking at using the Loctite Weld Bonding Compound, any experience with that? The frame is steel tubing.
I suppose I could rivet the skin on ... or am I missing a better way?
I was hoping to avoid the riveted look.
What has been used and done on other home-builts?
Thanks
Mike
If you go to my albums you can see my 03 Toyota Tacoma Pick-up that I removed the oem BED, built a flat-bed for it and then a box which I used for transporting my RT and camping ..... I built a frame from 3/4 " X 1/8th thick angle iron and covered it with 26Ga. galvanized sheet metal .... went to Spyderquest in Springfield Mo. from Vermont 8 X's ..... good luck ... Mike
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Active Member
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
If you go to my albums <snip>
Thanks
Looks like you used rivets. Any issues at all? Never any loosening or something like that?
Last edited by Mike0123; 03-04-2023 at 09:36 AM.
2021 RT Limited in Marsala Red & chrome (9/20)
2006 Yamaha Royal Star Venture - Black Cherry
2003 Suzuki Volusia - Black w/ Gold
1973 Honda CL350 - Hawaiian Blue
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Mike0123
Thanks
Looks like you used rivets. Any issues at all? Never any loosening or something like that?
I was careful about using the proper length, so they stayed in.... I was able to use STEEL rivets because I had a Rivet gun ( & compressor to use ) ..... otherwise, it would been too difficult .... Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 03-04-2023 at 01:58 PM.
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Very Active Member
They make rivets that will not leak water when it rains, use those if you can find them.
Here's some on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Rapid-Waterpr.../dp/B00HB3GXDM
Last edited by K80Shooter; 03-04-2023 at 01:55 PM.
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Very Active Member
I would use rivets. Far less likely to work loose than screws. There must be something right about them. After all, many airplanes through the years have been held together with rivets!
If you take time planning how many to use and where the put them you can make the riveted look quite pleasing, I think.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
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Mike...
Gluing is definitely the way to go over riveting. Airplane manufacturers like Boeing now glue skins instead of rivet. The bonding technology is there and you won't have leaks. I also suggest bonding rigid insulation like blue board to the inside (spray glue). It will obviously have good insulation value. However, it will allow you to use a lighter gauge of sheet metal and still maintain rigidity and durability (against denting, etc...) in the skin. Also, if you glue the inside skin material (can be thinner for same reasons as exterior) to the insulation and frame, you will have an extremely strong sandwich system that is very light weight for its strength.
Regards,
Don
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-09-2023 at 10:13 PM.
Reason: it - is ;-)
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
with all you said, however " glueing " large sheets of sheet metal can be very problematic ( especially doing it alone )_..compared to riveting which is almost idiot-proof, ... I did use my toy hauler to sleep in on trips, and I thought about the blue/pink insulation-board. However I did these trips in mild weather with an electric heater and sleeping bag and blankets ( temp considered ) .... also that tiny dab of silicone prevented all leaks. ..... good luck ... Mike
Mike...
The old contact cement gluing definitely took a lot of skill and patience to get it right. However, in addition to being stronger, many modern glues are much easier to work with. Still patience and planning are needed. Sandwich panels are the lightest, strongest, most weather resistant, and most durable way to go. Also, the most comfortable - temperature and noise.
Regards,
Don
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-11-2023 at 05:44 PM.
Reason: patients (sick people) - patience (tolerance) ;-)
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Last edited by Peter Aawen; 03-11-2023 at 05:45 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display ;-)
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