What should I have serviced, 2013 RT with 3,200 miles

[GoNoGo]

I bought my 2013 RT new and had it back to dealer for the first, "after break-in service" at around 200 or 300 miles, no other service performed that I can recall since 2014 and it now has 3,200 miles on the odo.

It's been sitting on a battery tender since October 2018 because we haven't been back to NY on vacation since.

I finally had my Spider RT picked up Friday in NY and hauled down to me here in Georgia; it cranks up and seems to run and idle just like new, but I want to "at least" change the oil & oil filter, drain the old gas and have new fuel filter installed.

I'm 70 miles from the nearest Spyder dealer in Georgia so was hoping to simply have my local 4-wheeler/Harley guy do some basic service on the Spyder, so I can get to riding ASAP.

What else can you guys suggest that are "highly recommends" to be done, besides oil change and old gas removal,, it only has 3,200 miles.

Thank you in advance.

[JayBros]

My apology for misreading the title of the original post.

Read the maintenance schedule in your operator's guide for the appropriate mile service. Call Bajaron, a sponsor found on the home page, and he can sell you everything you need. Your Spyder engine and transmission use the same engine oil lubricant. Check the specifications in the op guide and be certain you buy oil with the correct API service specification. Would be a wise idea to read the whole maintenance section of the op guide so you know the correct method of checking the oil and do NOT over fill it. Inspect your tires carefully, they are old and were it mine, I'd replace them for your own safety.

[Navydad]

The things you listed are a good start. I would look the tires over for cracks from dry rot or just sitting and replace if needed. Matter of fact I would replace them anyway because of age. Wouldn't hurt to do a brake fluid flush as well. Most important of all is to RIDE IT.

[canamjhb]

I believe your 2013 Spyder has the 998 twin as Spyders didn't go to the 1300 until 2014. The fuel, oil and filters should keep your machine good to go. But, I would also change those 9 year old tires and upgrade to CTs. Tires rot from the inside-out and bad tires may not be obvious. Good luck..... Jim

[larryd]

One place you say your 2014 RT then in your question you say my 2013 RT...First thing you need to know to get correct answers to you questions is WHAT YEAR IS YOUR SPYDER...There were major changes between 2013 & 2014...larryd

[Peter Aawen]

One place you say your 2014 RT then in your question you say my 2013 RT...First thing you need to know to get correct answers to you questions is WHAT YEAR IS YOUR SPYDER...There were major changes between 2013 & 2014...larryd

One of his other pics clearly show it's got the 2013 front end tupperware on it Larry, so I'd say it's a 2013 with the 998 V-Twin, cos that tupperware won't go on around a 1330 triple.

Doesn't really make a heap of difference to what you really should get done in the way of servicing right now tho - gas, oil, filters, tires, brake fluid, check the brakes & all controls for correct operation, and a good check over by a BRP dealer for any missed recall action &/or updates and to look for anything obvious like rodent nests in the wiring or a sun/light damaged section of belt then ryde .

And while I appreciate your desire to get ryding quickly, I'd suggest that you really should get that done by a BRP Dealer or at least someone familiar with Spyders who has BUDS & can do recalls/updates etc mainly cos I can't see the heat recall vents on your Spyder GoNo, and you really SHOULD get that heat recall done ASAP, if just to minimise the risk of a catastrophically firey end to your ryding! ::

Over to you!

[Mikey]

I would have the battery load tested also at some point, just for kicks!! Good luck have fun, ride safe!!

[PMK]

Honestly, since this year / model falls under the NHTSA recall where Spyder were catching fire and burning to the ground, if not yet accomplished, that recall for adding cooling scoops, removing the acoustic panels, installing the new body supports AND remapping the fuel delivery system to the engine. If not done, that should be a must do.

There may also be a second fire related service bulletin, it involves protecting the brake reservoir hoses and more from heat. That should be done also.

Considering it is 10 years old, replace the two vacuum hoses. If the dealer replaces them with oem parts, their life expectancy is far shorter than if replaced with aftermarket silicone vacuum hose.

Yes, other items you mentioned, flush fuel system, change filter etc, should be done.
Also the brake fluid should be flushed and bled.

As for replacing tires, while many adhere to the current calendar time limits, I am more of the mindset inspect for weather checking cracks, damage or other concerns. If none are noticed, ride and continue to inspect frequently.

Ultimately though, if funds permit, trade that old girl in and update to a newer Spyder. Let the dealer contend with the cost and issues of getting parts while you enjoy the upcoming cooler Georgia weather. The 2013 RT series was kind of a bastard year / model, caught between the nice 2012 and the newer three cylinder versions released in 2014.

All the best however you move forward.

[KX5062]

The only point I'll add to the good advice given, is that I would also recommend new antifreeze. Not a big deal, but worth doing. I wouldn't worry about a flush, just drain and replace is good enough. I also wouldn't worry about replacing the fuel filter. Fresh gas is good enough there too.

[Jackhartjr]

Why drain the gas, turn it out and ride!

[GoNoGo]

Sorry for the confusion, I was going from memory when I originally posted this topic saying it was a 2014 but I later noticed my signature and forum join date was summer of 2013,, therefore realized I goofed, LOL !!

I wanted to have the oil and filter changed so I could putt around by end of week. Meanwhile, I'll get on the Can Am dealer's calendar for service but they're around 3 weeks behind on service, plus it's 260 miles for me to deliver and then go retrieve. I will have the authorized Can Am dealer perform the recalls and all upgrades to keep it safe.

I really don't want to upgrade to a new Spyder RT as I'm content with this model, although maybe another inch or 2 ground clearance would be useful on these back country dirt & gravel roads.

I will make a list of all you-guy's suggested upgrades, fixes and replacements, and after sleeping on it, and after having oil changed this week, maybe I simply fill the tank with fresh 93 octane gas (it's currently showing 40% full) and put some miles on it rather than draining.

Thank you

[canamjhb]

If you do fill the gas and go, I would add an ethanol mitigating fuel additive first. There are several brands available at auto part stores. I think that will give you a much better chance of not having old fuel issues. Good luck..... Jim

[EdMat]

Watch out on those dirt and gravel roads. Don't need a rock taking the belt out. Might want to get a belt guard installed when you have it serviced.

[GoNoGo]

Watch out on those dirt and gravel roads. Don't need a rock taking the belt out. Might want to get a belt guard installed when you have it serviced.

Belt guard sounds like great idea, I'll look into that

[GoNoGo]

I would have the battery load tested also at some point, just for kicks!! Good luck have fun, ride safe!!

I replaced the battery I believe in 2018 or 2017 but yes, I will load test it if I can do it from the pigtail, otherwise I recall accessing the battery requires some disassembly

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Belt guard sounds like great idea, I'll look into that

Even with a belt guard riding on gravel roads isn't the greatest idea in the world, especially if you're thinking of riding for many miles at more than parking lot speeds. The belt is vulnerable to having rocks getting caught in it, especially if you drive fast enough to really throw them around underneath.

[Peter Aawen]

I replaced the battery I believe in 2018 or 2017 but yes, I will load test it if I can do it from the pigtail, otherwise I recall accessing the battery requires some disassembly

Not on a 2013?? Sure, it was an issue on the 2012's & earlier, but AFAIK, not on ANY 2013 or newer! . I'm fairly sure that BRP didn't carry it on to anything after 2013, but at least here in Oz and Europe, the 2013's came out with a 'battery terminal remote access block' mounted up under the LHS (when facing the open frunk over the lid) black cover just below the headlights when the frunk is open. Just open the frunk, then pop the push-pin & take the black cover off (so you can see the frunk latch ) and there's a remote terminal block sitting just there, with big fat battery leads connected directly to the battery that are suitable for connecting accessories and for jump starting, & therefore also for load testing - just pull the red cap/cover off the Pos terminal & connect the Pos lead, then connect the Neg lead to the other terminal & test away!

And if you STILL want to test directly off the battery terminals, it's a simple matter of unzipping the frunk liner (if fitted); removing the 2 brass screws holding the black placcy battery cover onto the back wall of the frunk; pulling the cover up & out; then connecting the load tester terminals to the correct battery terminals and testing to your heart's content! But I really dunno why you'd ever bother or need to do that, cos with that battery terminal remote access block the 2013 model Spyders are probably the EASIEST Spyders ever to connect things like load testers or clip on battery chargers, accessory wiring, etc!



Ps: I've said it before, but I'll say it again - I really think many Spyder Owners are worrying WAAAAYYY too much about their drive belts! . These belt things are robust, not at all fragile or readily prone to damage, and so are capable of handling a whole lot more crap than many seem to think!!
My 2013 Spyder has no belt guard, never had one, and has never had any issues with ryding on gravel roads at speeds substantially higher than parking lot speeds, and it's done so for a helluva lot more miles than many here seem to have done total on their Spyders!! . Just don't go silly hanging the tail on every corner or blasting thru the deepest patches of gravel & you'll likely be fine! . Still, I can't say the same about those bleedin' freshly topped chip-seal surfaces! Those, you need to be bloody careful on!

[GoNoGo]

Even with a belt guard riding on gravel roads isn't the greatest idea in the world

I hear ya but I live 2 miles out a dead-end gravel road, so forced to drive 4 miles on them to go anywhere and return home, LOL !!

[GoNoGo]

2013's came out with a 'battery terminal remote access block' mounted up under the LHS

Ps: I really think many Spyder Owners are worrying WAAAAYYY too much about their drive belts! . These belt things are robust, not at all fragile or readily prone to damage, and so are capable of handling a whole lot more crap than many seem to think!!
My 2013 Spyder has no belt guard, never had one, and has never had any issues with ryding on gravel roads at speeds substantially higher than parking lot speeds, and it's done so for a helluva lot more miles than many here seem to have done total on their Spyders!!

Yes my 2013 has that voltage block, it's what my charger cable is connected to and what I eluded to earlier when I said pigtail

I drove this Spyder RT many miles on gravel roads in Cape Vincent, NY without problems.. normal driving, not slinging gravel.

My gravel roads outside my house here in Georgia are fairly rocky and have small ruts.. so I will be driving slow anyway, especially to avoid scraping the underside as 4-inch clearance isn't a lot

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

My gravel roads outside my house here in Georgia are fairly rocky and have small ruts.. so I will be driving slow anyway, especially to avoid scraping the underside as 4-inch clearance isn't a lot

I will concede that most of us lack the experience Peter has had and thus have developed an over cautious approach. But, as with everything else, since you are aware of the risk, which is not zero, you can determine for yourself what your comfort level is, or ought to be, regarding the potential for belt damage and act accordingly.

[GoNoGo]

Load tested my battery today and it's putting out between 300 and 320 cold cranking amps. Looking online at the specs for replacement batteries, they're advertising 170 to 350 CCA's.. so apparently my battery is within range

I closely inspected the tires and the belt when the Spider was up in the air (on a trailer) and all look remarkably well.

As a favor to me, the closest CanAm dealer agreed to squeeze me in an oil & filter change tomorrow but they still have a 3-week lead time for a full service including to do the recalls and ordering those recall parts.

Oh, I gave it a good bath, scrubbing off all the spider webs and dung that's accumulated after sitting for nearly 3 years.

[GoNoGo]

Picked my Spyder RT up from having full service and 2 recalls performed this morning from the Can Am dealer near Atlanta and took it for a 50 mile ride to check it out.

All went well and the temperature gauge never exceeded 50% even though was 90* outside this afternoon.

Thank you for your suggestions, I'm glad that I took extra time and sent it to dealer, rather than to a quick-change oil place.

[nightcruiser]

Sounds like you got it.

[K80Shooter]

Glad that you got it taken care of.

[ARtraveler]

The smiles say it all. Glad to hear you are up and running again.