If you are going to change the rear shock also, take a close look at the lower ends to see which brand has the stronger connection. Don't know about your model, but a '14, for example, has approx 5 inches between the two braces on the frame. To span this distance the '14 OEM shock has a fairly large hard metal tube (about 30mm or so, bored out to 10mm) that goes thru the shock and spans the distance between the two braces. The shock is then attached to the braces with a bolt that is about 5 1/2 inches long which then makes for a strong support. Without that tube, thats a lot of weight on the bolt alone.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
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2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
Switched to Elka's on my 2020 RTL. After a slight amount of tweaking to the rebound setting set by Elka, I really like the way they handle. I spend a lot of time running in the twisties and they are better than the stock shocks.
ElkaShocks.jpg Love my Elka Shocks. I've had them on my F3s for three years and they are one of the best mods I've done. If you buy them from Elka, they will set them up to your weight and style of riding. Add a Baja Ron sway bar and the handling will be transformed.
If you are going to change the rear shock also, take a close look at the lower ends to see which brand has the stronger connection. Don't know about your model, but a '14, for example, has approx 5 inches between the two braces on the frame. To span this distance the '14 OEM shock has a fairly large hard metal tube (about 30mm or so, bored out to 10mm) that goes thru the shock and spans the distance between the two braces. The shock is then attached to the braces with a bolt that is about 5 1/2 inches long which then makes for a strong support. Without that tube, thats a lot of weight on the bolt alone.
Just as an aside, the 14-22 RT all use the same rear shock, and M2, Elka, Wilbers, Ikon all come with the required spacers. (it’s hard to tell the model/year from that tiny thumbnail with my ever worsening eyes )
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round, with sag adjusted for extra 3/8 clearance up front
Russell Daylong seat 2 taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2 ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
ElkaShocks.jpg Love my Elka Shocks. I've had them on my F3s for three years and they are one of the best mods I've done. If you buy them from Elka, they will set them up to your weight and style of riding. Add a Baja Ron sway bar and the handling will be transformed.
I have the Baja Ron sway bar on the way, and these arrived today for the front 175/55R-15 Vredestein Quatrac SL
I have elka stage 2 on front & rear. Also have Baja Ron's sway bar and just replaced factory tires. I put a pedal commander on a few months back as well. The difference is incredible. The trike is completely different. It's so quick and agile and even more fun to ride then before. I would say that shocks made the biggest difference in performance of any upgrade I've completed. I rode OH536 (cousin of the dragon) last week on new shocks and OH555 weeks ago on factory shocks. There is a noticeable difference in the ability to take corners at a higher speed with greatly improved stability. I high recommend upgrading the shocks. Chris
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 07-16-2022 at 11:11 AM.
Reason: road - rode ;-)
When I bought my ‘21 RT, I took it out for a ride and hit the opposite of one of our ever present potholes. It was actually a raised lip about 2” high where the asphalt had been pushed up. Even though I was watching for potholes you could not see this lip as it blended with the road ahead. The hit was significant enough to dislodge the instrument panel into the front cavity, and break loose some of the front body clips.
I immediately purchased a set of Ikon front shocks (already had the rear), set up for my large frame, and after speaking with the shock manufacturer, deliberately took the Spyder over the same “motocross jump”. The difference was amazing. Yes, there was a bit of a jolt, but as the manufacturer said they would, they took the lip in their stride. This is an added bonus over the more sure footedness over stock when cornering.. They are worth every penny to me.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round, with sag adjusted for extra 3/8 clearance up front
Russell Daylong seat 2 taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2 ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Thanks much for this info, about the shocks Chris, Peteoz I really need to replace the stock shocks, yesterday heading into a stiff breeze with the wife on the back, this thing was all over the place, dipping and diving especial on corners.
Last edited by RangerRick; 07-17-2022 at 08:26 AM.
I have been on M2's since May, and after qualifying what I say with, "I'm a long way fron a suspension engineer"and this is an opinion; I like' em. Yes, they're expensive, but worth it. They look to be overbuilt: 7075 AL, external roller thrust bearings above and below the spring, 7" +/- threads for height adjustment, and an incredible amount of adjustment for rebound; I've been twenty "clicks" either side of Ms' preset. And I think the springs could be easily swapped for lighter, heavier, or longer units.
The ride is good, maybe a little rigid on small bumps or rough road surfaces, but cornering is great on the front end, the rear seems to ride fine; I suspect his set-up/ shock renders the automatic ride adjustment [air bag] useless.
I would encourage you to watch his videos, call and talk to him; he's VERY knowledgable & accomodating.
2020 Spyder RT Limited; Deep Marsala/Chrome
Formosa AZ01 165/50/R16's on PPA Recluse wheels up front
General Altimax RT43 215/60/R15 on factory rear Primary exhaust: RLS Cat delete w/ his baffle; secondary, custom built w/ Flowmaster HS2
Suspension: BajaRon swaybar (highly recommended!), M2 coil-overs, front & rear (also highly recomended!)
Extra LED lighting and misc. to suit my needs/wants
I went with elka stage 4 all around on my 21 F3 S Special series, I also added the baja ron ultimate swat bar and now my spyder runs like its on rails!!!
I put a set of used Elka Shocks on my wifes 2018 F3L a couple of years back. She already had the BajaRon sway bar and she said that the sway bar was a night and day better difference in the handling. Then when I added the front and rear Elka shocks, she said it was a completely different ride, especially in the twisties and the better handling on the bike.
A couple of months ago I traded in my Indian for a 2019 F3L. It already had a BajaRon sway bar, so I cannot speak to the difference over stock but my wife did have a set of Front Elka shocks put on my bike at Lamonts Spyders in the Ozarks. They were installed by John from Elka in Canada. John told me "NOT" to buy the rear Elka shock since I only rode 1 up. He said the rear makes ZERO difference in handling on my bike. He talked about how it would make a huge difference in ride if I was two up on my bike over the stock shock but that since I was riding 1 up that I would never notice a difference and not to waste my money on the rear. He did say that if my stock rear shock ever went out that I should then consider getting the ELKA rear shock as the price of a new OEM shock over an Elka was not that much of a difference.
I will tell you that in my limited time in riding a Spyder with only the stock OEM shocks and then riding with Elka front shocks was quite a HUGE difference. I noticed it immediately in turns and how the bike just handled better in the imperfections of the road. I would 100 percent get the Elka front shocks again if I had to make the choice from scratch.
BTW if you have any questions give Elka a call and ask to talk to John, he had a ton of information about shocks and ride.
I have seen mentioned in other posts on this forum that the elka's are needing to be rebuilt (leaking) after a couple of years. And that the cost to rebuild them is almost as much as buying a new shock.
Is there any truth to this as I was considering going with the M2's due to this in the Spring once I have some $$ saved up for them.
2020 F3 SE6
Safety and Lighting: LED Headlight upgrade, IPS LED Fog lights, Show Chrome LED Fender Signals, LED Signature Light, Tric LED Afterburnerz, MotoHorn 2.0
Suspension: Wilbers Front and Rear Shocks, BajaRon Sway Bar, Vredestein Quatrac Front and Rear Tires
Comfort: Blue Ridge Windshield, Corbin Dual Touring Saddle, Ultimate Floorboards, OEM Passenger Backrest with Rear Shelf, OEM Passenger Floorboards Modified with High Risers from Pierre
Tackform Center Mount Phone Holder w/ rapid charging USB-C.
I just read those post (about rebuilding) also. Then I started to do some more research and found that there are thousands of Elka shocks sold and very few issues. The posts that I did find were mostly years old and from what I have found that Elka did have a problem with a supplier years ago but has since changed seal suppliers. I also read where one Spyder rider said they were told they had a shaft problem on both of their shocks? I found that a bit confusing that both were bad since I could not find any others with the same problems but issues do happen to almost everything. Elkas do )not have to be rebuilt every year (there is a very old post from John at Elka on this site that even discusses that for Spyder riders). When John had his informational meeting at Lamonts this year he discussed rebuilding the shocks and mentioned that very few riders will have to have their shocks serviced.
I do not have first hand experience with M2 or other shocks but I have read nothing but good things about them. I would guess that there are more Elka shocks out there, but that may be because of how long they have been in business. I kept my OEM shocks for emergencies but I honestly expect to never have to go into the attic to use them. What ever you choose will be the right decision for you.
I am super pleased with my M.2 Shocks, I ordered by phone and Marcus ask me me about how much I ride solo vs 2 up. The combined weight, preset the shocks based on the info submitted. Was great at answering any question during my install, and wanted me to report back about how I like them after riding for a while and adding any suggested fine tuning of them. Don't forget there is a great discount for forum members
2013 Spyder ST-SE5
US Army 1971-1973
Army Guard 1990
Air Guard 1991-2010
I can't comment on the quality of either M2 or Elka shocks. That said, my local suspension shop ( http://tracksidesuspension.com/ ) WAS a prior Elka dealer. They stopped dealing with Elka two years ago after quality control problems. That said, they recommended Wilber shocks to me, and they don't even carry them. They had no opinions/dealings with M2. My .02
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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I'm 20,000 miles into a set of Elka stage 2 front shocks (+ BajaRon sway bar) on my 2020 RT Base. I only ride solo and I push the limits of the RT and my abilities at 76. I hit twisties as hard as I did on my sport tourers and the RT takes it in stride - even though I have to hang on for dear life!
The oem set-up simply was unable to handle my aggressive style and the difference in control has allowed me to keep up with my 2-wheeled crazies.
To date, the Elkas have shown no signs of degradation.
If you are a casual rider you may never notice the limits of the oem hardware and can save your money for gas.
I just finished installing the M2 shocks on my 15 F3S front and rear and I have to say they made my Spyder handle like the Sprint race cars I used to race. I called Marcus and gave him a bunch of info on my riding style and weight with and without a passenger and he dialed them right in, got them in about 2 weeks as they're not mass produced like some other shocks, each set gets a personal touch from Marcus and his team. They were an easy install, a quality built product. Talking to Marcus was like talking to my best friend, he really listens to what you have to say, answered all my questions. On a scale of 1 thru 10 I'd have to give Marcus a 12+, You can't go wrong with him and he'll give you a SpyderLovers discount too!
Been running m2 shocks for a few years now. Never need the rear compressor anymore. The shock does all the work now.
I agree, Triker, but on the later models with led headlights, the bag performs the function of self levelling the headlights to avoid blinding oncoming traffic. (Just an aside in case someone decides to disconnect their bag on later Mandela once they install M2, Elka, Icon shocks)
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round, with sag adjusted for extra 3/8 clearance up front
Russell Daylong seat 2 taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2 ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red