LED headlight not switching Hi/Lo - any ideas on troubleshooting?

[GaryBlevins]

I have a 2018 Spyder RTL. The right side halogen headlight went out and I decided to replace it with an LED set from SlingMods. Their install video was very good and I was able to pull the plastic and get to the headlight modules without problem. The right side went in smoothly and the low and high beams work. However, the left side will not switch between low and high beams. When I installed the right side I forgot to check the position of the light adjustment cable, but I had not moved the left side so I copied the left side position to the right and then made sure I positioned the left side cable the same way.

Anyone have any ideas on what I can trouble shoot to find the issue. I have tried to call SlingMods and I am not getting any technical support from them.

Thanks,

Gary Blevins
Semper Fi

[BertRemington]

The most likely cause is the SlingMods cable is mechanically interfering with shutter operation.

Which mode is your left headlight in?

[GaryBlevins]

Hi Bert,

Thanks for the reply. I think your question is asking if it is in low or high beam. I am not sure. I did note that there are 3 positions (holes) where the adjustment cable can go, LB, HB(V) and one more. When I did the install on the right I forgot to check where the cable was. I checked the left side and saw that it was in the HBV hold so I place the right side side in the HBV position and then did the same to the left. I just watched the install video again and noted that the cable was in the HBV position on the left side when the Tech. removed the nut and pulled the cable loose. However, when he replaced it he put it back in the LB hole. Not sure if that is significant. I could hear some mechanical movement (shutter movement) on the right side when I switch back and forth from high to low, but I do not hear that same noise on the right side.
Should I try changing the left side adjustment cable to a different hole?

My club and I rarely ride at night, so I am not too worried about it, but I do have a Va. state inspection due in April.

[Wmoater]

I have the tricLED which is slingmod. I had one not working so I had to notch the back of the headlight and foglight caps like lamonsters and no more problems. I bet the black box that connects into the socket is preventing the shudder from moving. It worked great and then vibrated lower and stopped working till I attached the black box outside the cap like lamonsters.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Hey Gary. The cable you are focusing on is just for adjusting the headlight aim up or down. What hole you put it through doesn’t matter. What your responders are referring to is the hi/lo beam shutter that is inside the housing where the bulb went. That’s what your problem is. Spyders use a moveable shutter in front of the bulb to switch between hi and low. A spring pulls it into low beam. An electrical solenoid pulls it open further for hi beam. That’s the noise you hear. When those wires and that LED driver are stuffed in there, sometimes it all can get in the way of the shutter. You’ll have to pull the headlight, open it up again, and rearrange it all. Check it out closely when you pull off the cover on the back and you’ll see how it all works.

[BertRemington]

Doug -- yep he could hear mechanical movement on the right but not on the left so jammed the shutter when he installed the LED. No need to guess how I learned this when I installed HIDs (chosen for 4500K color temperature).

[GaryBlevins]

Hi Everyone, Thanks for the help and feedback on this issue. I pulled the headlight assembly back off and opened the black waterproof cover for the actual bulb. Saw right away what everyone was telling me and fiddeled with the extra wires and LED powerpack until I got it all back under the waterproof cover. Reinstalled the assembly, started the engine and bingo, I now have high and low beams!