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08-02-2020, 04:38 AM
#126
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Rljcorbie
Thanks for the info. Just curious, from start to finish, about how long did it take you to replace the arm?
Thanks!
Considering the body panels needing to be removed, plus the windscreen being removed, replace the arm and reassemble, plan for two hours.
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08-02-2020, 05:22 PM
#127
Active Member
Originally Posted by PMK
Considering the body panels needing to be removed, plus the windscreen being removed, replace the arm and reassemble, plan for two hours.
That's about correct, and even longer to save frustration and the worry of stuffing it up. Also be very careful of any difficult screws, sometimes a bit of heat is required on the screw helps to remove it.
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08-05-2020, 10:43 AM
#128
Active Member
I have a 2019 rtl is this a problem for all spyders with windshields?
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08-05-2020, 12:49 PM
#129
Very Active Member
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08-05-2020, 07:49 PM
#130
Active Member
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08-27-2020, 06:11 PM
#131
Member
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11-26-2020, 01:01 PM
#132
Hi,
After 40,000 kms the windscreen arm broke on my 2011 RT SE. Looks like I will be chasing a stronger replacement part from Noboot also.
Cheers,
Allan
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11-26-2020, 04:04 PM
#133
I have replaced the arm on my 2 Spyders. First one broke when going to a rally on my 2010RT. Rode with the screen taped to the bike. Purchased Noboots arm. Lovely bit of work.
I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket.
Worked well. Highly recommend.
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11-26-2020, 04:36 PM
#134
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Fearless
I have replaced the arm on my 2 Spyders. First one broke when going to a rally on my 2010RT. Rode with the screen taped to the bike. Purchased Noboots arm. Lovely bit of work.
I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket.
Worked well. Highly recommend.
Interesting .... I did my 14 RT and didn't have that issue. But glad to hear you were successful ..... Mike
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07-04-2021, 02:46 PM
#135
Originally Posted by noboot
bit rough around the edges but it's a first attempt at doing a video.
cheers noboot
Helpful. Thanks
2014 RTL Platinum
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07-04-2021, 03:54 PM
#136
Originally Posted by Fearless
I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket. Worked well. Highly recommend.
This is where I'm stuck. Once I get one 4mm hex head screw out of one side of a bracket, there's nothing to stop the brass barrel from turning when trying to remove the other screw from the other side. Can I just punch it through from the side with the screw removed?
16254320059396993200301579866898.jpg
2014 RTL Platinum
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07-04-2021, 04:28 PM
#137
I went ahead and punched it out.
20210704_152605.jpg
2014 RTL Platinum
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07-04-2021, 05:36 PM
#138
Active Member
Originally Posted by UtahPete
Yep, Correct
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07-04-2021, 07:10 PM
#139
Yep that thread locker hold them small screws in pretty good!
Take your time on when you remove the screws on the top of the gears and when prying the cover off. You may need a bit of heat to get the screws out or risk stripping the screws heads.
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07-04-2021, 07:21 PM
#140
Originally Posted by trikermutha
Yep that thread locker hold them small screws in pretty good!
Take your time on when you remove the screws on the top of the gears and when prying the cover off. You may need a bit of heat to get the screws out or risk stripping the screws heads.
Ron recommended heating them with a soldering iron, and that did the trick.
2014 RTL Platinum
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07-05-2021, 10:47 AM
#141
Does it matter that the new arm lacks the black washers at the pivot point?
20210704_163021.jpg
16255001683856930727099077007220.jpg
2014 RTL Platinum
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07-05-2021, 11:36 AM
#142
You need to remove and install the sleeves on the new arm.
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07-05-2021, 11:42 AM
#143
Originally Posted by Fearless
I have replaced the arm on my 2 Spyders. First one broke when going to a rally on my 2010RT. Rode with the screen taped to the bike. Purchased Noboots arm. Lovely bit of work.
I have just done my 2014 RT. This was a bit different to my earlier one in that instead of pins and clips to hold the windscreen support bracket for the screen, it had screws and threaded tubes. You can not get the bracket to slide over the arm. Lateral thinking, remove screws. find 30mm long M5 screw and large washer. Socket, Wind a nut all the way up the screw, place washer on, put socket over threaded hole, thread screw in , wind nut till tube comes out of bracket.
Worked well. Highly recommend.
I just used a punch to drive the brass piece out.
2014 RTL Platinum
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07-05-2021, 12:36 PM
#144
Okay, now I'm stuck again. I got the mechanism put back together and the windshield bracket mounted to the arms. But when I went to check the functioning of the mechanism, it went up okay, but won't come back down. So now the arm is jammed tight against the dashboard cowling and I can't budge anything.
20210705_112911.jpg
2014 RTL Platinum
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07-05-2021, 02:45 PM
#145
Can you still move the top cover??
Can you remove battery power and pull it down??
You maybe also be able to run the arm motor off a 12 vdc source to raise it up and down. But would need jumpers to make it happen.
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07-05-2021, 03:35 PM
#146
Originally Posted by trikermutha
Can you still move the top cover?? Can you remove battery power and pull it down?? You maybe also be able to run the arm motor off a 12 vdc source to raise it up and down. But would need jumpers to make it happen.
The dash cover is trapped. I think releasing the switch would stop the electric motor running. Turning off the ignition certainly would.
Maybe I blew a fuse; I'll check that.
Isn't there supposed to be a travel limiter to prevent this from happening? If so, where / what is that? Obviously didn't work this time.
2014 RTL Platinum
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07-05-2021, 03:40 PM
#147
Originally Posted by UtahPete
The dash cover is trapped. I think releasing the switch would stop the electric motor running. Turning off the ignition certainly would.
Maybe I blew a fuse; I'll check that.
Isn't there supposed to be a travel limiter to prevent this from happening? If so, where / what is that? Obviously didn't work this time.
The limiter is related to the magnet on the side that was taped up. Hope its still there?
It looks like the motor goes back to the WPM module
You did place it back into the correct position correct on the gears? Sorry have to ask questions.
Did you put the magnet back on the shaft in the same spot too?
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07-05-2021, 03:46 PM
#148
Originally Posted by trikermutha
The limiter is related to the magnet on the side that was taped up. Hope its still there?
It looks like the motor goes back to the WPM module
You did place it back into the correct position correct on the gears? Sorry have to ask questions.
I did tape on the magnet so as not to lose it, but it's possible that it fell off as I was reinstalling the shaft and arm.
I put dabs of paint on all the pieces as instructed so I'm fairly confident it was properly oriented.
I'm concerned that if I pull down too hard on the billet arm, I'll break something in the gears. Should I be?
2014 RTL Platinum
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07-05-2021, 03:50 PM
#149
Originally Posted by UtahPete
I did tape on the magnet so as not to lose it, but it's possible that it fell off as I was reinstalling the shaft and arm.
I put dabs of paint on all the pieces as instructed so I'm fairly confident it was properly oriented.
I'm concerned that if I pull down too hard on the billet arm, I'll break something in the gears. Should I be?
I wonder if the magnet is missing or the shaft was off a slot? I am sure you marked it correctly. But that magnet could have fallen out??
Can you put pressure on the top cover versus trying to pull the arm down?? I guess you could try it but I would be very careful as you cannot just buy the gears. You have to buy the whole module if something breaks.
Let me see if I can move mine since I have mine still in pieces..
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07-05-2021, 03:53 PM
#150
Originally Posted by UtahPete
The dash cover is trapped. I think releasing the switch would stop the electric motor running. Turning off the ignition certainly would.
Maybe I blew a fuse; I'll check that.
Isn't there supposed to be a travel limiter to prevent this from happening? If so, where / what is that? Obviously didn't work this time.
Which fuse is it? I don't see a label for windshield motor.
2014 RTL Platinum
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