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Originally Posted by BajaRon
Though A-Arm bushings can definitely cause a front end wobble (similar to warped rotors). It's always associated with applying the brakes, in my experience. I didn't mention this possibility because the OP seems to be describing the problem as occurring without applying the brakes.
It will be interesting to see what actually cures this one. I suspicion it will be a combination of the criminally lousy Kenda tires and alignment. Second on the list being bad ball joints. But it could certainly be something entirely different.
It is somewhat fun to speculate. Except when it's YOUR ride!
Thanks BajaRon. I will keep everyone on this thread posted on what I find out or do with the Spyder. I may just trade it in to the Dealer that thinks there is nothing wrong and let it be their problem. The only issue is that Spyder inventory is low and they are not giving any deals these days....so I am going to take it in the shorts on a trade-in for a new one! :-(
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Very Active Member
I had a front end wobble it was fixed with brake rotors from Baja ron
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Active Member
ok lets just say Im not a spyder expert but I have been riding a 2012 rtf for about 5 years. I had this wobble issue for some time it just started one day after about 3years of riding.Scared the **** out of me though the tire rime was coming off. it went thru a gap in the speed say 25 thru 40 after 40 it was smooth again.. I found that some how I had checked and added air but this unaware (I) set at 10 pounds different.. That was two years ago and only once has the slight wobble started and fixed it again, didn't even take off helmet.
I know all the above comments are good ideas to check but IM saying it could be AIR
Love all the help I have picked up here
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Has anyone mentioned checking the tire pressure? When I purchased a USED 2011 Rt from a "dealer" in DFW the two front tires were underinflated to something like 10 psi. The thing was shaking like crazy during the test drive but It was my first time riding a Spyder and I was thinking that was normal. Upon arriving at home I pressure up all the tires front and rear tire to what I considered a good pressure 20 in the front and 28 in the rear (or something like that). The shaking stopped immediately. Never had that problem after until I sold it to another local dealer and purchased a 2019 RT. No shaking on this one. I see this is a very old post from 2015 but I have not been around for a while.
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Very Active Member
"I see this is a very old post from 2015 but I have not been around for a while." ???
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Originally Posted by ButterSmooth
Did you spin the wheels, as suggested in another post, and check for runout (axial and radial) of the tires? It seems we've come full circle and tires are the prime suspect.
I was able to check for runout after I figured out how to and it looks good to me. That tread line stayed straight as an arrow on the straight edge on both tires and on the outside the gap stayed the exact same all the way around. Thanks for the tip I learned something. The issue sure seems like a bushing or some other component. The wheels seem really solid so I don't think it is a wheel bearing but I am no expert.
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Originally Posted by pegasus1300
"I see this is a very old post from 2015 but I have not been around for a while." ???
Hi, I do not see what old post you are referring to. Was it about a wobble issue? Thanks!
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by pegasus1300
"I see this is a very old post from 2015 but I have not been around for a while." ???
Yeah, that’s got ME confused too, Paul. I didn’t think that last month was all that long ago...... but then I have a very boring life .
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round, with sag adjusted for extra 3/8” clearance up front
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Originally Posted by jtoro1
I had a front end wobble it was fixed with brake rotors from Baja ron
Interesting new mention, thanks! Did the wobble times and speeds match what I described in my original post? I had brand new brake pads put on the front with the tires....but they said the rotors were fine. Again I don't trust that dealer. I don't feel any pulsing of the brakes like when a car's go bad when the rotors are warped...so I'll add this to the list of possibilities.
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Originally Posted by jerrydonna
ok lets just say Im not a spyder expert but I have been riding a 2012 rtf for about 5 years. I had this wobble issue for some time it just started one day after about 3years of riding.Scared the **** out of me though the tire rime was coming off. it went thru a gap in the speed say 25 thru 40 after 40 it was smooth again.. I found that some how I had checked and added air but this unaware (I) set at 10 pounds different.. That was two years ago and only once has the slight wobble started and fixed it again, didn't even take off helmet.
I know all the above comments are good ideas to check but IM saying it could be AIR
Love all the help I have picked up here
Yeah the air was checked with multiple sets of tires. So all three sets of tires, my two that were wearing out and two sets of new tires all had the correct air pressure. Nice idea tough....thanks for chiming in!
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Originally Posted by bikerchris1270
Sorry to hear the dealer ( I would like to know who?) was happy to take your money but not willing to accurately diagnose your problem.
To be clear, this started once new tires were installed. The spyder was fine before this.....correct?
So, they put on new Kendas front and rear, aligned front wheels and rear wheel. Hopefully they reset theSAS and Torque sensors using BUDS. Plus, did they bend something jacking it up?
If the above was indeed performed correctly......my thought would be to check front end components for wear/ looseness. Check for tire runout too....Kendas are horrible tires.
I had my F3L aligned last year by Robs Motorsports in Johnson Creek. Something wasn’t right with it when I got it back. I went and purchased the equipment to do alignments myself plus BUDS software......performed the alignment myself.....they had failed to properly square the wheels to the frame.....dog tracking.......my alignment turned out perfectly!
Sorry to say, don’t take their word for gospel. Unfortunately, it sounds like your in a bind.
I’d be asking why they are unwilling to help since it was their suggestion for an rear tir and alignment. I live in Edgerton.
Hi Chris I sent a new PM like you asked for with some answers to your questions. Let me know if you don't get it.....thanks!
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Originally Posted by jtoro1
I had a front end wobble it was fixed with brake rotors from Baja ron
Thanks jtoro1....I still have the issue so I am re-reading all the material in hopes I missed something. So I did get new pads on but it wobbled before that so maybe it could be the rotors....albeit like was said earlier there is no pulsing. Did your wobble only happen as certain speeds? Mine varies from 35 to 60 depending on road, temp and wind it seems...but it always wobbles up the speed and down the speed. Thanks!
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