Here's the Shad mount on the LinQ mount. The cosmetic cover is on (this is what it looks like if you take the box off) but as you can see, I still need to cut out part of the circle so I can unlock the LinQ plate. I forgot to do that and I was tired.
Here's the set up from the rear and side at it's smallest capacity.
And the same fully extended. (There's a middle position but I didn't take any pics of that.)
I think it looks kinda sporty in the smallest configuration and has about the same footprint as the OEM top box fully extended.
I rode about 2 hours this afternoon with the box in both the smallest and fully extended positions just to see if it would affect the wind. I couldn't tell it was back there unless I was looking in the mirrors. I'd say it's a success.
NOTE: It appears the SH59X (with the aluminum top cover) replaces the chrome reflectors with black parts. I think I'll buy those instead of trying to paint the chrome ones.
Looks like the pics didn't come through - it says invalid attachment when I click on the link.
Looks great Monk. I think I like the look better than the factory box.
Did you have some pics of how it mounts to the LinQ base?
Thanks.
There are (3) tabs on the front (bottom) of the box that slip into those (3) holes in the mount. The rear just clips into that raised piece, rear center. There are (3) key positions, Lock, Unlock and Release. The 1st (2) are obvious. You can choose Lock or Unlock and remove the key. (Unlike Givi bags were you HAVE to unlock w/the key every time you want to open the box. Dumb idea, if you ask me, which you didn't.) If you turn the key to Release, the key stays in the box but then allows you to pull a lever at the rear of the case that releases the rear latch holding the box to the mount. Easier than it sounds. The only time I plan to remove the box will be if I want to remove the LinQ rack and reinstall the stock color matched cover.
If I didn't explain it well enough (and I might not have), let me know and I'll take a quick video of the process sometime this week.
Wow! That looks great. This is making it harder and harder for me to resist taking the leap onto a newer RT model. I have prewarned the wife that the temptation is strong, so who knows what will happen next.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
Wow! That looks great. This is making it harder and harder for me to resist taking the leap onto a newer RT model. I have prewarned the wife that the temptation is strong, so who knows what will happen next.
Thanks. It doesn't have the same get up and go as your F3 but a flash would take care of that. I love this thing. I'm not usually one to keep any vehicle very long but barring a lottery win, I'll probably keep this until the next generation comes out. There are still a few things I want/need to do (more rear lighting, real tires, paint trunk, foot pegs, maybe floorboard lights?).
I think I'm addicted. Every time I install one thing, I think "Now, I need THIS other thing". I got the Pedal Commander (which is awesome, by the way). Now, I want the ECM reflashed although I'll wait on that until after the 3k mile service. I've long since run out of money but my addiction still runs wild. It's a sickness.
I have this Shad 53X box on my Kawasaki. Sweet case and I love how easy it is to remove and bring into the hotel.
The built in handle is handy, eh? I don't see a Shad 53X top case. Maybe that's a discontinued model? What Kawasaki do you have? I've had a couple of Nomads.
FWIW, You could save close to the cost of the ECU flash by doing the 3k yourself. It's just an oil change and inspection. $50-70 for oil/filter.
I don't change my own oil. I'm supposed to get the 1st service for free. We'll see if they stand behind that. Even if they make me pay, I think having a dealer do the 1st service makes sense. They're supposed to know the bikes inside and out so they can check the torque settings on the bolts, etc. They should also know what to check for and they'll have the right tools to do so. Not sure what I'll do for any further oil changes.
I don't change my own oil. I'm supposed to get the 1st service for free. We'll see if they stand behind that. Even if they make me pay, I think having a dealer do the 1st service makes sense. They're supposed to know the bikes inside and out so they can check the torque settings on the bolts, etc. They should also know what to check for and they'll have the right tools to do so. Not sure what I'll do for any further oil changes.
Hahahaha! That's funny! Great joke, good one!
Oh, hang on were you trying to be serious?!?
Sorry, I thought you'd read all the & complaints about (many) dealers/dealer techs & understood how few of them seem to have any idea about all that stuff?!
I do hope you have a good experience if you go down that path, or at the least, you don't end up with things broken, mirrors falling off, bolts or sump plugs stripped or broken off, oil over-filled, drain plugs not replaced, or any of the myriad of other things stuffed up/done by incompetent/unskilled/not even vaguely trained dealer techs like so many of the rest of us!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-12-2021 at 03:42 PM.
While I don't have a lot of confidence in my dealer, I have somewhat more confidence in the Can Am mechanic (SteveO) at the dealership. If he does the initial service (which, again, is supposed to be free) and something falls off, he can buy me a new bike (and pay for my medical expenses).
...."NOTE: The center lock is a bitchkitty to turn. Maybe mine will get better over time but I had to use a pair of pliers to turn it. No way I could do it by hand. At first, I thought it was broken. That's how tough it is to turn"....
I had the same problem when I tried to remove my top case. If you look closely the bolt that runs through the center lock it has a lock nut on the underside. if you loosen this nut it makes it easier to lock/unlock.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-12-2021 at 09:13 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
I had the same problem when I tried to remove my top case. If you look closely the bolt that runs through the center lock it has a lock nut on the underside. if you loosen this nut it makes it easier to lock/unlock.
Heh. I did. That's the ONLY way I could get it to turn. I didn't want to loosen it too much and have things fall off. I can probably get another 3/4 turn out of it and may very well do so.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-12-2021 at 09:13 PM.
Reason: Fixed quote display
The built in handle is handy, eh? I don't see a Shad 53X top case. Maybe that's a discontinued model? What Kawasaki do you have? I've had a couple of Nomads.
Sorry typo, 58X. I have a Vulcan Nomad 1700. I took off the rear seat back and used the stock rack to mount the Shad base onto. Works perfectly.
Cuz I can't leave anything alone, I went ahead and installed the backrest(s). I think it looks much better, more complete.
BEFORE: before short.jpgbefore tall.jpg
With inspiration from MONK, I added a Shad top case to my base model RT.
This is sort of a trial/test for me so I bought a really inexpensive case as my intention is to only use it for occasional overnight trips. However, now that I have it installed, it looks like a great place to stash my helmet and gloves when I stop for breaks and food. So, I may wind up leaving it on there all the time or buy a nicer one (that uses the same mount plate).
I didn't go with the biggest nor the smallest box but it easily holds my large full face helmet with room to spare. Shad says you can put 2 helmets in there but I suspect they would need to be small helmets and probably not full face helmets. Also, as I noted, it is one of the least expensive top cases Shad offers so there is a bit of flex in the bottom due to the thin plastic. I will not put anything heavy in there - mostly clothes and the like. (I lost a GIVI top case on my motorcycle some years ago so I am very leery of putting anything of value in one of these things.)
The black finish matches the black plastic on the bike. If I decide to leave it on the bike all the time, I will likely take it to a body shop to at least get the top lid painted to match the paint on the bike or upgrade to a nicer case and have it painted. I did that to a BMW top case and they only charged me $150 - but that was before COVID.
It is very sturdy. The LinQ rack is hard and heavy plastic with reinforcing ribs. The Shad plate is the same. I opted to drill the 3" hole in the plate where I thought it would not affect the strength of the plate. Even after drilling the hole, I couldn't flex or bend the plate at all.
The only tricky part as MONK noted, it laying out the plate on the LinQ rack so that the holes that need to be drilled line up with flat parts on the underside of the LinQ rack - you need to miss the ribs and the curved areas and give clearance for washers next to ribs and curved areas. You also have to drill the 3" hole appropriately. This is the fiddly part and just takes time to layout and play with it. I used blue tape and some string to keep everything centered and located where I wanted it.
Install time was maybe an hour and a half taking my time. I have $450 invested.
Monk I fitted the Shad 58X on my F3T
I added rubber matting I the top box I used a rubber mat from a car floor mat cut to size another item you may find useful is the Shad expanding case
See