Anyone tried Mobil 1 10W40 Full Synthetic Oil?

[PMK]

FWIW, the 30 wt is a lower viscosity than the 40 wt BRP states to use.

If your friends clutch survives it is likely from not getting the plates hot. Heat attracts moly. The moly binds to the surface. Moly is more slippery than Teflon.

Seems risky to save $20. Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, 10w40 Sportbike is more expensive, but inexpensive compared to needing clutch plates. The moly is good for everything, except the clutch plates.

So to answer your question, no, I have never run friction modified oils in any of my wet clutch motorcycles.

FWIW, cost vs cost, your buddy could run Shell Rotella T6 in 5w40 for about the same price as Mobil 1 car oil, maybe even less, plus it is wet clutch rated.

[carbonation]

Sarcasm on..
What? No, can't be. Someone using an oil made, marketed, certified for an engine of a different type? And successful? Say it ain't so!
Sarcasm off.
Of course he has had no problems. And probably won't.
Now I will say that there are oils that have a better VI component that won't shear as much in a shared sump engine. And there are oils that have higher doses of phosphorus, zinc, boron, or other wear additives that are may be more suitable for the Spyder engine. But will M1 auto oil do any harm? Nope. Changed regularly, should be fine. M1 has a percentage of PAO, and their Visom basestock, all good stuff. I'd rather see a 40 weight go in, but most Spyders are running around with 30 weight in the sump after a couple thousand miles, and they keep on running. The SN versions of M1 have less phos, zinc, and anti-wear additives than MC oils, but the 1330 is really very "car" like with hydraulic lifters, less valve spring pressure, lower RPM, etc than many other MC engines. It should have about 100 PPM of moly, and many will say NO to that. M1 uses a tri-nuclear moly and even at double that dose would not cause a clutch to slip
I'll even go out on a limb and say his selection of M1 10w30 is a better choice than BRP 5w40. Just keep on riding.

[BajaRon]

There is more to a wet clutch lubricant than just attributes for the wet clutch alone. They also assume that the engine oil is going to be running in the transmission gears as well. Transmission gears are brutal on oil. So, wet clutch lubricants are also designed to withstand this crushing force better than engine only lubricants which do not see this level of service.

Do what you like. It's your ride. But sometimes, cutting corners leaves you just a bit short in the end.

[DaniBoy]

My BRP manual says to avoid API Service SM oil, as it will cause the centrifugal clutch to slip. It’s been my experience that API designations are ever increasing. Years ago, I remember SA class oil. Since then, we’re now up to SN, I believe. I was always taught that every new class of oil supercedes those before it. i.e. they are backwards compatible. Truth or fiction? I’d like to run Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40.

[BajaRon]

My BRP manual says to avoid API Service SM oil, as it will cause the centrifugal clutch to slip. It’s been my experience that API designations are ever increasing. Years ago, I remember SA class oil. Since then, we’re now up to SN, I believe. I was always taught that every new class of oil supercedes those before it. i.e. they are backwards compatible. Truth or fiction? I’d like to run Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40.

Most oils are now SM rated. It's getting hard to find one that is not. The key is the JASO rating. If it is MA2, then you are good to go and you don't have to worry about the SM rating anymore.

[Peter Aawen]

My BRP manual says to avoid API Service SM oil, as it will cause the centrifugal clutch to slip. It’s been my experience that API designations are ever increasing. Years ago, I remember SA class oil. Since then, we’re now up to SN, I believe. I was always taught that every new class of oil supercedes those before it. i.e. they are backwards compatible. Truth or fiction? I’d like to run Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40.

I've merged your new thread into one of the many existing threads on this subject Daniboy, but please be aware that there's a whole lot of oil info, experience, and discussion on the Forum already that's well worth a read, lots of it about the various types of Mobil 1 - all you need to do to find it is to type 'Mobil', 'Mobil 1' or even 'Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W/40' into the Search Field up towards the Top Right of the page; check the 'Search Titles Only' box in the drop down list that'll appear once you start typing; then hit the little Magnifying Glass to submit your search! Once you've got the pages of results back, simply read thru the thread titles to pick those that seem to apply most to what you want to know & read on! The Forum's been around for a long time now, so there's a vast amount of accumulated and shared knowledge & experience stored here, if you make the relatively small effort to look first - and there's a very good chance your question has at least been touched upon, if not answered completely at least once before - except if it's a question about oils or tires, it's almost certain to have been asked and answered multiple times already!

Plus, we do try to encourage Members starting New Threads to always try to briefly state their question in their thread titles, because it makes searching so much easier for everyone looking for the same info later on; just like Searching and doing a bit of reading on the info that's already here before starting a new thread helps to avoid ending up with multiple threads asking much the same thing & none of them ever quite getting the complete answer! Still, if we all make juuust a little effort up front & do these things, it'll at least help everyone find the answers they want/need as well as making the Forum easier for all to use & navigate in the long run - wins all round!

Also, be aware that if you're posting a new question or a variation on the earlier question in an older thread, you might not get the same people responding - thread archeology in itself isn't necessarily a bad thing, especially if it's adding to the knowledge/experience base; but asking someone who last posted on the Forum almost 10 or 15 years ago how/what they did/learnt/liked might not get much in the way of a response! The Membership here does tend to evolve over time.... the numbers of active & contributing Members are steadily growing, sure, but none of us are getting any younger, and those who stop riding or move on to other things tend to contribute less, while the new-comers contribute more - hopefully adding to & expanding on that knowledge/experience base rather than just repeating the same mistakes &/or asking the same questions!

Over to you!

[Crewless]

Mobil 1 10W-40 Racing 4T. Full Synthetic, API SN, JASO MA/MA2, $10.97 a qt at Walmart.

[bikerbillone]

Break out the pop corn, but simple question. Anyone using 10/40 MobileOne. Thinking about it in my 2020 RT Ltd, just thinking that's all.

[PMK]

Yes, been the oil of my choice since 2014 in our Spyder.
Essentially one of the best, if not the best readily available, reasonably priced motorcycle specific oils in 540rats blog.

[troop]

Yes. I like it.

[Dasmoetorhead]

I dumped spectrol 4 synthetic 5w-40 in the F3S .

[PMK]

I dumped spectrol 4 synthetic 5w-40 in the F3S .

Why Spectro instead of Mobil 1 motorcycle oil?

[Dasmoetorhead]

Why Spectro instead of Mobil 1 motorcycle oil?

Because I bought the Lamonster's oil change kit, and that's what's included. It's a motorcycle specific oil. The 5W-40 is also what BRP recommends (the weight and class).

[PMK]

Because I bought the Lamonster's oil change kit, and that's what's included. It's a motorcycle specific oil. The 5W-40 is also what BRP recommends (the weight and class).

Out of curiosity, goofing off, I pulled up the Spectro website.
Not that I follow Spectro products within the moto industry, and I have not used Spectro products for decades, it was interesting that it appears Spectro was made a part of Motorex.
Can not say for certain, but it sure sounds like Motorex is making the oils now.
I have used Motorex in off road suspension units, very good stuff, but at more than $20 USD per litre it became cost prohibitive.

Ironically, for a couple decades now, for suspension fluid, typically I use Mobil 1 atf. Has the lower VI rating that greatly reduces stiction. Cost is about 1/2 that of Motorex, KYB 01 and its sisters, etc.

If Motorex is now making Lamonsters oil, it should be good, assuming it is the top tier product, just gets dumb expensive, almost in the price range of Motul.

[Dasmoetorhead]

Out of curiosity, goofing off, I pulled up the Spectro website.
Not that I follow Spectro products within the moto industry, and I have not used Spectro products for decades, it was interesting that it appears Spectro was made a part of Motorex.
Can not say for certain, but it sure sounds like Motorex is making the oils now.
I have used Motorex in off road suspension units, very good stuff, but at more than $20 USD per litre it became cost prohibitive.

Ironically, for a couple decades now, for suspension fluid, typically I use Mobil 1 atf. Has the lower VI rating that greatly reduces stiction. Cost is about 1/2 that of Motorex, KYB 01 and its sisters, etc.

If Motorex is now making Lamonsters oil, it should be good, assuming it is the top tier product, just gets dumb expensive, almost in the price range of Motul.

Yes, it is expensive.

[PMK]

Yes, it is expensive.

Saw that, right around $18 per quart for the Spectro.

[FrogmanDave]

Saw that, right around $18 per quart for the Spectro.

No thank you.