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Very Active Member
If it were me, and you truly believe your torque wrench applied inaccurate torque, I would remove those drain plugs and replace the drain plugs. Would also purchase a known high quality torque wrench.
The drain plugs will tend to become more locked in place with use. With so many reports of failed drain plugs, including oem, why risk a huge expense at the next oil change.
Not going to debate torque wrench quality or calibration, merely if I question the actual function of it indicating the torque point, I use a vice and check the operation. I have thrown away a few torque wrenches over the years. Simply not worth the risk.
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Very Active Member
The torque on oil drain plugs is so low- in the Inch pound range that using the book values calls for very careful application of a 1/4" drive torque wrench that can operate efficiently in a mid-range of its operating span. Also, I question the published torque values as are they a dry value versus a "lubed" value as all drains will be wet and low friction which is reduced by about 25%.
I try to use a 6" ratchet or less and only snug the plug tight--- having a 12 inch lever arm of the torque wrench seems a bit risky to me.. JMHOIMG_0645[1].jpg
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Very Active Member
Torque is tricky on drain plugs because they usually have some oil on the threads. Most torque specs are for dry threads. As long as you have no leaks wait until your next oil change.
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Very Active Member
The infamous wet torquing to a dry torque spec with a questionable torque wrench is never good...
Plus the engine cases are aluminum, always an adventure.
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Very Active Member
Using a bonded rubber and steel sealing washer instead of the old fashioned crush washer pretty much negates the whole torque issue. Just put the plug in and about a 1/4 turn snug. Its seals and does not easily streach fragile aluminum threads. We have shifted to using these bonded rubber and steel sealing washers in all oil changes as we now get zero leaks first try every time.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by jcthorne
Using a bonded rubber and steel sealing washer instead of the old fashioned crush washer pretty much negates the whole torque issue. Just put the plug in and about a 1/4 turn snug. Its seals and does not easily streach fragile aluminum threads. We have shifted to using these bonded rubber and steel sealing washers in all oil changes as we now get zero leaks first try every time.
Agree. Not stealing your thunder, I snag a few at a time, been installing them for a long while now.
Had some ideas to offer them to owners here, simply did not. Likely Baja Ron will soon stock them if he doesn’t already.
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Great advice! No leaks from the drain plugs so far. I had a minor seep on the oil filter. A slight tightening of the screws seems to have stopped it.
The torque wrench is from Harbor Freight, so not high end. The long handle messes me up with the low torque values. I'll run some tests on it.
The bonded rubber sounds like a better option. Anyone have a good source and specs?
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I also went to the bonded/steel style washers per jcthrone recommendation...Just tighten them snugly without torquing...Changing all the toys in the toy box over as the oil changes come due...Bought a large assortment...
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by larryd
I also went to the bonded/steel style washers per jcthrone recommendation...Just tighten them snugly without torquing...Changing all the toys in the toy box over as the oil changes come due...Bought a large assortment...
Someone else here just posted that He got a few on Amazon and posted a LINK ….. look for a similar post to find it ….. Mike
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by jcthorne
Using a bonded rubber and steel sealing washer instead of the old fashioned crush washer pretty much negates the whole torque issue. Just put the plug in and about a 1/4 turn snug. Its seals and does not easily streach fragile aluminum threads. We have shifted to using these bonded rubber and steel sealing washers in all oil changes as we now get zero leaks first try every time.
Would you happen to know the size of the bonded washer, seems several are available.
Also, why is the oil drain plug built like it is with the multiple offset o'rings?
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Very Active Member
If it were me. And I was in doubt. I would simply loosen the drain plug a bit and re-tighten. You won't lose any oil this way and you will get it done before the heat cycles make your drain plugs even tighter.
I never use a torque wrench on a drain plug. Just too many things can go wrong. Most people, including dealership techs, get these too tight. They just need to be hand snugged with 3/8" drive wrench.
I wouldn't worry about the washer being damaged. They are pretty tough. I did 4 oil changes using the same washers (and 1 with no washer at all!) with no leaks or even a film around the plug.
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Originally Posted by EdMat
Would you happen to know the size of the bonded washer, seems several are available.
Also, why is the oil drain plug built like it is with the multiple offset o'rings?
12 and 16 would be correct for a 1330 engine. 12 and 14 for a 998. On the 1330 engine, the engine side oil drain plug has multiple o rings as it drains the sump and the crankcase at the same time.
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Originally Posted by Highwayman2013
Torque is tricky on drain plugs because they usually have some oil on the threads. Most torque specs are for dry threads. As long as you have no leaks wait until your next oil change.
Concur. The sealing washers are great; buy some, and next oil change, install them.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by jcthorne
12 and 16 would be correct for a 1330 engine. 12 and 14 for a 998. On the 1330 engine, the engine side oil drain plug has multiple o rings as it drains the sump and the crankcase at the same time.
Thank you sir. Thought that might be the reason but was not sure.
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Leave em until your next oil change then swap them out.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Geep
One type of many possibilities.
For whatever reason, Rotax uses a tapered seat area on the drain plug. Not saying that is good nor bad.
Merely, anyone looking to use sealing washers needs to verify dimensionally they will seal correctly. This means the sealing material does not enter the threaded bore, nor extends beyond the fasteners edge. Essentially, the sealing surface should fully accept the complete contact surface of the sealing gasket.
Ideally, you should get the correct material and temp range. Aluminum is ideal to minimize corrosion, but not mandatory.
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Active Member
Sounds like the 60 year old trick of a piece of shoe leather or belt will do the trick just fine. No leaks & easy to get loose.
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