Stage two with RLS cat delete with no added baffles and sinister performs and sounds awesome. Real deep tone and great decel sound. Lots of power from bottom to top. When you have sport mode on gets even better.
Interested in how yours performs with the stock cat back on. I have a Daytona also with just the Akrapovic Sinister pipe. Am I running lean with no tune?No bark off the line but it picks up fast. I was expecting more off the line snap. Are you saying the stage 2 didnt help or could it be the baffles you're running? I'm considering the stage 2 and RLS cat delete.
Do it! It will make that Daytona a beast!
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
I just got mine back from upgrading from Stage 1 to Stage 2 and I emphasize Upgrade!
Though I was somewhat happy with the Stage 1, I did find that my Spyder (2014 RT-Ltd) ran rough & jerky on take off when it was cold.
I couldn't wipe the smile off my face after taking it for a rip after installing the ECU with the Stage 2 flash.
The Spyder runs sooo smooth and the throttle response just couldn't be better!!!
Some have mentioned that the addition of the 2 air holes added to the airbox lid was noisy, to be honest I never noticed any increase in volume. The test ride was with stock cat & muffle. (Cat Delete pipe is on the work bench ready to install)
Got any pics od the air box lid with the holes in it? Thanks, Mike
Interesting idea, but why would you convert a reasonably properly designed and flowed cold air intake, into a reduced ram air effect hot air intake.
Years ago, I disassembled the air duct and gave it a look, expecting true restrictions for engine intake air. Yes, the entire duct could be removed and an external duct routed outside the bodywork to shorten the length and assure cold air was captured. This though requires good placement of the air duct inlet away from turbulent air created by the bodywork.
On the 14 / 19 RT series the oem duct gathers incoming air at the front of the Spyder, in the upper edge of the left radiator duct. The outside inlet appears small and restrictive, but upon inspecting, there is an additional cold air inlet that supplements to obvious inlet.
The 2014 to 2019 RT series Spyder utilizes a quite large still airbox, adjacent to the throttle body. This is a good design. It allows incoming turbulent airflow, to slow slightly, but more importantly reduce turbulence and allow a straight airflow into the throttle body.
There is a large duct that crosses over to the air filter airbox. By design, the airfilter initiates straightening the airflow based on the cylindrical shape.
Most engine builders and tuners know and understand that air density will alter performance. Cold air is more dense per volume and produces better power. Adding a warm or heated air bypass as shown will make noise and sound powerful, but likely, and I may be wrong, will reduce power based on heated air.
Going further, if that new set of holes could utilize the flush honeycomb style air vent below the mirror, possibly it could keep a cooler air charge near the holes. For me, when my hands are cold, often I place them over the honeycomb vents at lights to warm them up. Based on that, it is apparent the air around the filter box is heated.
Years ago, while researching the oem air duct, I considered removing all of the intake duct, except the still airbox. Plan was to install a K&N filter onto the still airbox spigot. For various reasons, including heated air concerns, I did not make that mod.
Interesting idea, but why would you convert a reasonably properly designed and flowed cold air intake, into a reduced ram air effect hot air intake.
Years ago, I disassembled the air duct and gave it a look, expecting true restrictions for engine intake air. Yes, the entire duct could be removed and an external duct routed outside the bodywork to shorten the length and assure cold air was captured. This though requires good placement of the air duct inlet away from turbulent air created by the bodywork.
On the 14 / 19 RT series the oem duct gathers incoming air at the front of the Spyder, in the upper edge of the left radiator duct. The outside inlet appears small and restrictive, but upon inspecting, there is an additional cold air inlet that supplements to obvious inlet.
The 2014 to 2019 RT series Spyder utilizes a quite large still airbox, adjacent to the throttle body. This is a good design. It allows incoming turbulent airflow, to slow slightly, but more importantly reduce turbulence and allow a straight airflow into the throttle body.
There is a large duct that crosses over to the air filter airbox. By design, the airfilter initiates straightening the airflow based on the cylindrical shape.
Most engine builders and tuners know and understand that air density will alter performance. Cold air is more dense per volume and produces better power. Adding a warm or heated air bypass as shown will make noise and sound powerful, but likely, and I may be wrong, will reduce power based on heated air.
Going further, if that new set of holes could utilize the flush honeycomb style air vent below the mirror, possibly it could keep a cooler air charge near the holes. For me, when my hands are cold, often I place them over the honeycomb vents at lights to warm them up. Based on that, it is apparent the air around the filter box is heated.
Years ago, while researching the oem air duct, I considered removing all of the intake duct, except the still airbox. Plan was to install a K&N filter onto the still airbox spigot. For various reasons, including heated air concerns, I did not make that mod.
This isn't my idea. This is where Monster/Wicked drill the holes for their stage 2 ECU flash. You'll have to ask them..
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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This isn't my idea. This is where Monster/Wicked drill the holes for their stage 2 ECU flash. You'll have to ask them..
Likely they are adding airflow for WOT, and surrendering some efficiency at all throttle setting and preferring obtaining maximum power. Would be very interesting to compare real world driving performance number of no holes in the airbox lid vs holes in the airbox lid at various throttle settings.
Interesting idea, but why would you convert a reasonably properly designed and flowed cold air intake, into a reduced ram air effect hot air intake.
Years ago, I disassembled the air duct and gave it a look, expecting true restrictions for engine intake air. Yes, the entire duct could be removed and an external duct routed outside the bodywork to shorten the length and assure cold air was captured. This though requires good placement of the air duct inlet away from turbulent air created by the bodywork.
On the 14 / 19 RT series the oem duct gathers incoming air at the front of the Spyder, in the upper edge of the left radiator duct. The outside inlet appears small and restrictive, but upon inspecting, there is an additional cold air inlet that supplements to obvious inlet.
The 2014 to 2019 RT series Spyder utilizes a quite large still airbox, adjacent to the throttle body. This is a good design. It allows incoming turbulent airflow, to slow slightly, but more importantly reduce turbulence and allow a straight airflow into the throttle body.
There is a large duct that crosses over to the air filter airbox. By design, the airfilter initiates straightening the airflow based on the cylindrical shape.
Most engine builders and tuners know and understand that air density will alter performance. Cold air is more dense per volume and produces better power. Adding a warm or heated air bypass as shown will make noise and sound powerful, but likely, and I may be wrong, will reduce power based on heated air.
Going further, if that new set of holes could utilize the flush honeycomb style air vent below the mirror, possibly it could keep a cooler air charge near the holes. For me, when my hands are cold, often I place them over the honeycomb vents at lights to warm them up. Based on that, it is apparent the air around the filter box is heated.
Years ago, while researching the oem air duct, I considered removing all of the intake duct, except the still airbox. Plan was to install a K&N filter onto the still airbox spigot. For various reasons, including heated air concerns, I did not make that mod.
Thank you, thank you, thank you PMK …… this is similar to what I have posted on other similar threads ….. However on the air turbulence thing, on the Spyder it occurs BEFORE the AIR filter element which imho calms the air significantly ….. I have pics in one of my Albums ( see Shock re-locators on RT 13+ ) of what my Air Intake looks like on my 2014 RT...… Because I wanted to be able to re-move my Frunk easily ( and often ) I built my new intake with a ( sort of ) SLIP Joint..... I can re-move my Frunk and then replace it in about 15 minutes. … My intake air comes from Outside the Spyder and is at Ambient temp.... good luck all …… Mike
Thank you, thank you, thank you PMK …… this is similar to what I have posted on other similar threads ….. However on the air turbulence thing, on the Spyder it occurs BEFORE the AIR filter element which imho calms the air significantly ….. I have pics in one of my Albums ( see Shock re-locators on RT 13+ ) of what my Air Intake looks like on my 2014 RT...… Because I wanted to be able to re-move my Frunk easily ( and often ) I built my new intake with a ( sort of ) SLIP Joint..... I can re-move my Frunk and then replace it in about 15 minutes. … My intake air comes from Outside the Spyder and is at Ambient temp.... good luck all …… Mike
Yes a filter can often straighten or align airflow. The Spyder design is not bad but air enters the airbox from the side. Would be better from the end.
As for the primary duct, as curved as it is, the cross sections are adequate for the engines oem setup. Add to this it is true cold air induction at a good location free of low pressures and that adds efficiency. One downside of the design on 14 to 19 RT series is the reversing fans.
The secondary duct and still airbox serve to smooth turbulence and muffle intake drone. I did have a couple mods I still plan to make regarding the intake tract, just time has not allowed it yet.
I'm a total newbie when it comes to ECU mods but as an engineer (chemical, not mechanical) I know that for most things, it is always a trade-off. Therefore, what is the trade-off with these mods that give me better hp? Fuel efficiency? Engine Life? More frequent Maintenance? etc.
I'm a total newbie when it comes to ECU mods but as an engineer (chemical, not mechanical) I know that for most things, it is always a trade-off. Therefore, what is the trade-off with these mods that give me better hp? Fuel efficiency? Engine Life? More frequent Maintenance? etc.
HP & or torque always comes with a price..... When you increase the power output of a combustion engine, there is going to be more stress placed on every moving part in that engine. And you don't have to be an engineer to figure this out. … I believe from reading many articles that the Rotax 1330 engine in OEM form is under stressed. So a 20 to 25 hp increase is well within the original design parameters to handle that amount of increase.... back in the day, you could take a Chevy 350 small block that in OEM form put out maybe 285 HP and bump it up 200 or 300 HP using different mechanicals. ….. Those engines were stressed way more than what Monster does for the 1330, and if the Chevy's were done correctly they functioned for a long time. …. IMHO I wouldn't be concerned about shortening the life of the 1330 w/ ecu mods from Monster …… good luck …. Mike
I was also looking to do a Stage 2 on my 2019 F3-S and I see Monster has a new handheld coming out soon. Thoughts? Wait for the handheld or send in the ECU?
I was also looking to do a Stage 2 on my 2019 F3-S and I see Monster has a new handheld coming out soon. Thoughts? Wait for the handheld or send in the ECU?
It sounds like you'll need to purchase the flashes separately (stage 1 = $390/stage 2 = $510), in addition to the $300 hardware piece. This will allow you to use the device to flash between stage 1 or 2 and stock. That said, the stage 2 requires your air cleaner cover to be drilled. Might not want to use a stock tune with this.
2022 RT Sea To Sky
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I was also looking to do a Stage 2 on my 2019 F3-S and I see Monster has a new handheld coming out soon. Thoughts? Wait for the handheld or send in the ECU?
You're better off mailing in the ECU with the cover. So that way your ECU profile stage II and factory settings is already on record. When the hand programmer comes out..they just send out the programmer with your profile on it...if you decide to purchase it....this is actually the better way to go...
It sounds like you'll need to purchase the flashes separately (stage 1 = $390/stage 2 = $510), in addition to the $300 hardware piece. This will allow you to use the device to flash between stage 1 or 2 and stock. That said, the stage 2 requires your air cleaner cover to be drilled. Might not want to use a stock tune with this.
If he wants to switch from stage II to stock he can just purchase another airlid and keep it in his garage..and switch it when he changes tunes or go back to stock. they are only about 20.00 bucks on cheap cycle parts.com . I have a spare one in my garage...