Anyone tried Mobil 1 10W40 Full Synthetic Oil?

[Michaelscs]

Bet there are several web addresses for different versions of this form. The one in your link states, "Valid at participating farm retailers only."

Great …. who did you but the oil from ????? ……………...Thanks, Mike

Sorry, I didn't really pay attention to the farm retailers thing. I got mine at Mills Fleet Farm, a huge retailer like Menards, that we have around here. Fleet Farm has it on sale for around $20 every once in awhile. Mills Fleet Farm is on the "select retailer" drop down menu on the rebate form. Maybe you guys have one of the retailers on the drop down menu around you.

[RICZ]

My last ride was a Victory Cross Roads and once I inadvertently ran the oil over 7,000 miles. Oh oh, I better send a sample in to be analyzed. The report came back saying all is good and BTW, there's at least 25K more miles left on this oil. I am now a huge fan of Rotella T-6.

[PMK]

Geeez ... I knew this would come to an oil thread. Good luck with the rebate form

The OP asked about two items, one was a rebate coupon, the other was JASO info regarding Mobil oil. Started as an oil thread, continued as an oil thread and will end as an oil thread, but certainly not a what oil should I run thread.

Very possible the OP when looking at Mobil 1 products was researching Mobil 1 automotive oils, which is actually too good for the motorcycles wet clutch. He asked for clarification on Mobil 1, and rebate info, both of which he has gotten.

[bikerbillone]

Don't see it unreasonable that riders would comment on various other oils, but that's just me, we all have opinions.

[troop]

OK .. For the OP. Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and search for Rotella T6 5w40 in the motorcycle forums. You will see a big consensus that when used in shared sump applications, that the T6 5w40 shears down quite a bit in viscosity compared to other m/c specific oils (Amsoil/M1/Motul/etc), when used over longer mileage intervals. It is cheap though, and certainly good enough to use..

[PMK]

OK .. For the OP. Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and search for Rotella T6 5w40 in the motorcycle forums. You will see a big consensus that when used in shared sump applications, that the T6 5w40 shears down quite a bit in viscosity compared to other m/c specific oils (Amsoil/M1/Motul/etc), when used over longer mileage intervals. It is cheap though, and certainly good enough to use..

Mike, the Blueknight that started this topic seems pretty set on the oils he uses. Either Rotella T6, or I think it was Valvoline as his other choice. Both should prove better than oem BRP oil, but since that oil has not been tested by more than oil sample tests, there is no data of how it rates.

I respect Mike for his New England ways of being both creative in his solutions to items he does not like, and his frugality in wanting good stuff for less. No shame in that if it works.

[acdcking12]

OK .. For the OP. Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and search for Rotella T6 5w40 in the motorcycle forums. You will see a big consensus that when used in shared sump applications, that the T6 5w40 shears down quite a bit in viscosity compared to other m/c specific oils (Amsoil/M1/Motul/etc), when used over longer mileage intervals. It is cheap though, and certainly good enough to use..

I looked up this Rotella Oil and all I see as an option is Diesel oil.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Also Rotella has a great rebate until end of Dec.... If anyone has been able to PRINT the rebate form, please share how you accomplished this …. much Thanks …. Mike

I just looked at it. It's online filing only. You have to select from the list of authorized farm retailers and that leaves out Walmart. From my past experience with other kinds of rebates there's no way to submit it other than the prescribed online method.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

OK .. For the OP. Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com and search for Rotella T6 5w40 in the motorcycle forums. You will see a big consensus that when used in shared sump applications, that the T6 5w40 shears down quite a bit in viscosity compared to other m/c specific oils (Amsoil/M1/Motul/etc), when used over longer mileage intervals. It is cheap though, and certainly good enough to use..

Yes I am a fan of the Rotella T-6 it has served me well over the years. ( and it's a real money saver )….. After learning that it Shears sooner than some others, when I change out my oil ( 1330 eng. ) I then began using One Qt. of 20W50 ( Valvoline 4-stroke ) and Four 5W40 T-6 ….. both are full syn…… plus I change at approx. 5000 mi. …… Thanks …. Mike

[CopperSpyder]

I have had that LINK for awhile ….. But I can't find a way to Print it !!! ...…that's my issue ……….Thanks ….Mike

Mike, I have looked all over for that form all I could find was 2017, 2018 and one for 1/2019 to 6/2019 after that it is all the on line only rebate form for the rest of 2019. I did see this one for 11/2019 to 12/2019 at O'Reillys https://www.oreillyauto.com/cmsstati...9-12.24.19.pdf check the dates see if that is good for you. I think it is only good at O'Reillys.

[troop]

I looked up this Rotella Oil and all I see as an option is Diesel oil.

It is, indeed, intended for heavy vehicles. That said, it does meet JASO MA/MA2 specs. Use with no worries..

[troop]

Yes I am a fan of the Rotella T-6 it has served me well over the years. ( and it's a real money saver )….. After learning that it Shears sooner than some others, when I change out my oil ( 1330 eng. ) I then began using One Qt. of 20W50 ( Valvoline 4-stroke ) and Four 5W40 T-6 ….. both are full syn…… plus I change at approx. 5000 mi. …… Thanks …. Mike

Ha .. I also tend to use frankenbrews. Late last summer, Walmart had a closeout on M1 oils, as they changed their packaging/labels. Owning both a 800 Tiger and H-D, I snatched up (9) quarts of M1 10w40 4T m/c oil and (6) quarts of M1 20w50 v-twin oil for $3/quart. They also had Quicksilver brand 10w40 full syn m/c oil on clearance for $2.50/quart. I bought (4) of those. Needless to say, I'm set with oil for awhile ...

[acdcking12]

Am I able to use this oil in my Spyder?


Castrol 06113 Power1 4T 5W-40 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil

[troop]

Absolutely ...
https://www.amazon.com/Castrol-Power...NsaWNrPXRydWU=

[RICZ]

JASO-MA is for motors with a wet clutch. JASO-MA2 is for wet clutches and catalytic converters.
Rotella T6, being a Diesel engine oil, therefor it has a heavier engine protection additive package as Diesels have a 22:1 compression ratio.

[PMK]

JASO-MA is for motors with a wet clutch. JASO-MA2 is for wet clutches and catalytic converters.
Rotella T6, being a Diesel engine oil, therefor it has a heavier engine protection additive package as Diesels have a 22:1 compression ratio.

But yet it scores lower in 540rats test program than Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, which his tests in simple terms determines psi until film failure. And as crazy as this may seem, oil quality surpasses a more viscous oil or zinc additives. 540rat is a smart guy and has a well proven test method that is independent of any financial input or sponsorship.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

But yet it scores lower in 540rats test program than Mobil 1 motorcycle oil, which his tests in simple terms determines psi until film failure. And as crazy as this may seem, oil quality surpasses a more viscous oil or zinc additives. 540rat is a smart guy and has a well proven test method that is independent of any financial input or sponsorship.

Who is 540rats? He's not an SL member.

[Lew L]

Who is 540rats? He's not an SL member.

He is a blogger with pretty good credentials. Just search 540rats and you'll have a days reading about oil testing.

Lew L

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Mike, I have looked all over for that form all I could find was 2017, 2018 and one for 1/2019 to 6/2019 after that it is all the on line only rebate form for the rest of 2019. I did see this one for 11/2019 to 12/2019 at O'Reillys https://www.oreillyauto.com/cmsstati...9-12.24.19.pdf check the dates see if that is good for you. I think it is only good at O'Reillys.

Thanks for this … I've reviewed my options and this is how it pans out …. Tractor supply ( which is near me ) is selling the 2.5 gal jug for $43.99, @ 10 qts. = $ 4.44 per ….. so even without the $17.50 re-bate that's a darn good price, the on-line rebate is the problem for me …. I'm computer illiterate , Shell requires you to download to one of 8 possible files ie. JPG ,JPEG, GIF, PDF, PNG, TIF, TIFF, or BMP …. I have No Clue how to do any of that ….. But I can get a Mail-in re-bate form from O'Reilly's that isn't O'Reilly's specific ./…..so maybe this can be done in a round-a-bout way ….. Thanks …. Mike

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

He is a blogger with pretty good credentials. Just search 540rats and you'll have a days reading about oil testing.

Lew L

I did find his blog a bit ago. I'm not sure about him, particularly when he won't disclose his testing methods. Not doing that shields them from critical reviews, especially from those who would tend to agree with him. In this life and country no one person can be 100% correct about any subject. A big question that comes to my mind is the affect of smoothness of the surfaces being lubricated. If they are mega super smooth there is no roughness to hold onto and push oil molecules around, so I'm not sure that film strength is the absolute best measure, especially with regard to engine to engine results.

[PMK]

I did find his blog a bit ago. I'm not sure about him, particularly when he won't disclose his testing methods. Not doing that shields them from critical reviews, especially from those who would tend to agree with him. In this life and country no one person can be 100% correct about any subject. A big question that comes to my mind is the affect of smoothness of the surfaces being lubricated. If they are mega super smooth there is no roughness to hold onto and push oil molecules around, so I'm not sure that film strength is the absolute best measure, especially with regard to engine to engine results.

He may not reveal his actual test apparatus, but explains the test focal point, plus what test methods he does not use. Add to this, his logic of the testing in regards to temps and reaching ultimate failure is important. Going further, he may not give specific details of his equipment, but reading between the lines, his method is the same for each specimen tested, and his knowledge / background leans towards having correct micro inch finished test panels.

A while back, a person here led me to his blog. That person and I were discussing the importance of zinc in oil. I had always been led to believe zinc was critical as a high pressure additive. After reading his blog, what I thought was true for decades, I no longer endorse as correct.

Myself, I see the merits in his blog / test results. In his blog he clearly states many people oppose his testing, but also states that people within the industry, not merely internet gurus, endorse his methods and parameters. Seems those opposing his data have no facts to support their opposition. Merely a speculated reason, but done so without common sense reasoning as to why his tests are not valid. Oil industry professional and oil end product users have validated the test results match real world testing, where as ASTM tests seem less real world.

Also stated is the information is factual data. Repeatable factual data, and sadly, not everyone is open to seeing, reading or wanting to understand facts.

If someone here can suggest a better source of information regarding oil performance, I would enjoy seeing it.

If someone here can explain why his methods are not accurate and fair, I would enjoy that.

At this point, yes, I drink his Kool Aid. 540rat is far smarter than me regarding oil film strength, and testing for it.

Below, I copied sections of his blog and placed them in bold / italics for others to read.

“My testing is a dynamic friction test under load, similar to how an engine dyno test is a dynamic HP/Torque test under load. Both tests show how their subjects truly perform in the real world, no matter what Brand names are involved, no matter what outrageous claims may have been made, and no matter what their spec sheets say.”

”METHODOLOGY

The details of the specific test equipment set-up I developed, as well as the details of the specific test procedure I developed, that provide the accuracy and repeatability that I demand, are Proprietary Intellectual Property. But, I can share the following:

The test methodology or test procedure I use at a representative operating oil temperature of 230*F, is a dynamic rubbing friction test under load, which generates a wear scar on a test specimen that is bathed in the oil being tested. This procedure, which is performed exactly the same for every motor oil tested, provides excellent repeatability, which is critical to validate the methodology. And as shown above, my test data EXACTLY matches real world severe over-heating experience, real world race track experience, real world flat tappet break-in experience, and real world High Performance street experience. No matter what any critics may say, with my test data exactly matching real world experience, that absolutely PROVES and VALIDATES that my data is the real deal. You cannot get any better than that, so you will not find better motor oil comparison data anywhere. The test result is “pounds” of force being applied over the wear scar “area”, which is in square inches (the size of that “area” is of course is determined by the oil’s film strength/load carrying capability/shear resistance capability). So, the result is pounds per square inch, which of course is just shortened to “psi”. The better an oil’s wear protection capability, the smaller the wear scar will be on the test specimen, and the higher the resulting psi value will be. Multiple tests are performed on each oil, and the resulting values are averaged to arrive at the most accurate possible value for comparison. And the motor oils are ranked, based on the average psi value they generated.

.
The motor oil “Dynamic Wear Testing Under Load” I performed to generate my “Wear Protection Ranking List”, is worst case torture testing, using oil testing equipment that is for the record, NOT a “One Armed Bandit” tester and NOT a “4-Ball Wear Tester”. My testing subjects the oil to far more severe loading than even the most wicked flat tappet race engine ever could. So, since my oil testing compares various oils under worst case conditions, absolutely no further testing is required in a running engine. If oils rank higher in my “Wear Protection Ranking List” than the oil you currently use, those higher ranked oils will provide a HIGHER LEVEL OF WEAR PROTECTION than your current oil. It’s really that simple.

.
My test equipment is NOT intended to duplicate an engine’s internal components. On the contrary, the test equipment is specifically designed to cause an oil to reach its failure point, in order to determine what its capability limit it is. And every oil I test is brought to its failure point, that’s how it works. The difference in the failure points, is what we compare. And in addition to that, my equipment’s calibration is checked and adjusted if required, each time the testing switches to a different oil. That keeps the final results accurate at all times.”

[Dgdecker]

The rebate check I received was from O’Reilly’s bank in Clinton, IA so I’d be leary about using the form elsewhere.

[troop]

In my small city of 12k, I have an O'Reilly's about .5 miles away and a Super Walmart 1 mile away. O'Reilly's cost is $26.99 and Walmart is $20.97. That's damn near the rebate. Ask O'Reilly to price match Walmart ?
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...and=true&pos=1
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rot...-gal/102646780

[bluep]

Has anyone used Mobil 1 10W30 (regular auto oil) - not for wet clutches - in their 1330 Spyder?? My buddy has used it in his 1330 Spyder RT for about 20,000 mi with NO clutch problems...

[vindex1963]

With so many choices in wet clutch compatible oils out there why would you want to take a chance?