I know from reading on this forum about some people losing their side panel. so i always made sure that mine was always seated firmly into the rubber grommets. so...... off i go on a ride. going about 75 or so. i got to my destination. got off the spyder. took off my helmet, and "MY SIDE PANEL ON THE LEFT SIDE, THE ONE EVERYONE REMOVES TO CHECK OIL........GONE!!!
so this side panel could be anywhere on this 26 mile stretch. i packed up,got back on and started on my return trip. I am going about 50 55 mph to maintain a decent speed for the other vehicles.
i am looking into the median and the westbound lanes... "BAM" as i look in front of me there it is, right in the middle of my lane, no time for a maneuver, tried to miss it going over it, guess what this is a spyder rear wheel in the middle.....crunch! the split second i saw it, it looked pretty good. NOT NOW.
anyone have any advice on securing this panel?:
What sad story with a sad ending that beat the odds.
Ours is a red, black and chrome 2017 F3 Limited. Bought new in 2/2019. The avatar is my first bike back in 1952, a Simplex Servi-Cycle. Photo taken at the Barber Museum.
If additional air flow control interests you, install a set of Baker Air Wings. The way they're mounted they secure the panel firmly.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
I cut off & replaced the little placcy clips on the top of both the left & right side panels with D-ZUS fasteners - looks like they were designed to be there, positively lock those panels onto the Spyder, and took all of 15 mins to fit them both... I've posted pics before, and there are quite a few threads discussing this issue, so a bit of searching might help in the sort term, but next time I get a chance I'll post up another pic or two...
Simply cut the little placcy clip off the inside top of that panel (or its replacement) with a sharp knife; re-fit the panel to line it up/hold it in place while you to drill a hole of the correct dia for your fastener thru both the top panel & the one underneath; slip the 'captive nut' clip onto the bottom panel; with the clear placcy washer on the paint work, push fit the metal D-ZUS into the hole in the top panel; press it into the captive nut & 1/4 turn to clip the panels securely together.
Once you've done all of that hard work installing it the first time around, it does get a little easier! From there on in, it's just a matter of lifting the D-ring, turning it 1/4 turn, & either pulling to remove it &/or pushing if replacing the panel. It has a positive locking action and it's far more secure than any of the OE Clips on that panel. In fact, BRP used exactly this style of D-ZUS on the side panels for the RSS & ST models, so it looks OE & works a lot better as well as being far more secure. You could source these clips from BRP if you wish, but last time I looked they charged about $15 ea plus postage, & I got a pack of 10 identical clips & keepers for about $5 inc postage off e-bay...
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-12-2019 at 11:18 PM.
After reading about the body panel possibly blowing off, and then finding one while riding the bicycle, securing ours became a project that I just recently completed.
Peters setup of the Dzus fastener setup certainly works, mine is similar but quite different.
I used Camloc fasteners. Small height profile and more compact visually. Also, knowing the relative airflow grabs the front edge of the panel, then peels it away, I installed the Camlocs on the panels forward edge. This also makes them barely visible.
FWIW, in the past, I would very often while riding, reach down and ensure the panels were latched. With the new setup, that is not even a concern. These are used on aircraft panels exposed to aerodynamic loads and speeds. I have installed probably many thousands.
If I get off my wallet, maybe I will upgrade to stainless Camloc studs vs painting what is there, as hidden as it is.
I have owned two Spyders (2012 RTL and 2014 RTL (current one) - about 70,000 miles total) and never had a problem with a lost panel. However, here's the safeguards I did right away on my 2014 RTL. I used a secure line from the bike to panel "just in case" it decided to come off. I also insured all grommets stay in place by a small cable tie through the grommet to hold them in place. Worst case the grommet pushes out, but still remains with the bike due to the zip tie. Here are a few pictures. I originally only used a 20 lb test leader to secure the panel and since replaced that line with 110 lb nylon paracord. One end uses a screw to the panel and the other end is a quick carabiner release (bike side) for easy removal of the panel.
Again, I have never had one come loose, but I'm sure this method would let it hang on for a short time so you could pull over and secure it. Good luck.
Happy and safe rydin'
2014 Spyder RT Limited - January 2014, Cognac/Black Seat, #958, born on 1-8-14
I have never heard of this problem, but now that I have; it gives me some concern. Can someone post a picture from a little farther back with some arrows showing which panel is the problem along with the Baker Air Wings mentioned by IdahoMtnSpyder? Our 2014 RTL has a couple of airflow wings that do not appear to be standard equipment. If ours are already what is needed, I will not give this another thought.
I know from reading on this forum about some people losing their side panel. so i always made sure that mine was always seated firmly into the rubber grommets. so...... off i go on a ride. going about 75 or so. i got to my destination. got off the spyder. took off my helmet, and "MY SIDE PANEL ON THE LEFT SIDE, THE ONE EVERYONE REMOVES TO CHECK OIL........GONE!!!
so this side panel could be anywhere on this 26 mile stretch. i packed up,got back on and started on my return trip. I am going about 50 55 mph to maintain a decent speed for the other vehicles.
i am looking into the median and the westbound lanes... "BAM" as i look in front of me there it is, right in the middle of my lane, no time for a maneuver, tried to miss it going over it, guess what this is a spyder rear wheel in the middle.....crunch! the split second i saw it, it looked pretty good. NOT NOW.
anyone have any advice on securing this panel?:
Hi Dave here, This is not a new problem, I had the same trouble with 2 of my GoldWings.. the clips and or little rubber
thingys just wear out.... I made a short tether strap or cord attached one end to the side panel and the other to the frame
never lost one since.
PMK, which Camloc fasteners did you use?? From what I can see they might be the 50F 3700N Series. Also where did you get the fasteners?
Dean Secord AKA seaweed
Veteran: U.S. Air Force
2015 RT-S SE6
My Mods: TricLed Turn Signal, Squared Away Sept, 2016,SpyderPops Bump Skid, SpyderPops Missing Rock Guard, ION camera, Show Chrome Back Rest,
Show Chrome Hitch. Leesure-lite trailer, Hopnel 850 Saddlebag Liners, Hopnel 3 piece lid netset - trunk and saddlebags
Magic Brake Strobe/Flasher, DIY LED light strips on upper and lower A frames, BlueKnight911 Magic Mirrors,
DIY superior grill, USB port, Hwy pegs, DIY Flag mounts for USA and US Air Force flags,
Method to open Frunk and seat without using key, LED headlights and LED fog lights, turn signal switch safety mod
CruisnTX,
These are the side panels that you remove to change oil (indicated by the blue arrows on my '13 RTL)
Safe Rides,
David and Sharon Goebel
Both Retired USAF Veterans
2018 Anniversary Edition RT Limited
Baja Ron ultimate swaybar. Vredestein tires, Baja Ron Front Shock Pre-load adjusters, Pedal Box, See my Spyder Garage
IBA 70020
I had a panel come off, it was dark and I didn't notice it was gone. I retraced my steps the following day and found it barely damaged on the verge of a 4 lane. Timed it so there was a lull in the traffic and a quick stop retrieved it. However, that was before I realised the importance of ensuring the hook clip on the top corner MUST be engaged with the corner of the lower panel before pressing the panel into its rubber bungs.
It never came lose again nor have the panels on subsequent Spyders.
Learn about the hook tab, go out look at the panel and become familiar with it. If you just push the panel into place on its rubbers you've got a very good chance will go AWOL at speed.
I own a 2014 RTS-SE 6 , and I have not had parts lost( flying off when I am on the road).
I have heard of the problem.
Deanna
Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue
Red LED NANO Saddlebag Marker Lights with Full Illumination
Sequential Fender LED'S (Amber/Red) with Safety Reflector
Dual Power Plate (12 V & USB ports)
Gremlin Bell
Rear Trunk Organizer (4 holders, 2 Elastic Holders)
Lamonster "Top Cuff" with adjustable drink Holder
SpyderPops Missing Guard Belt
Console Accent Trim (Carbon Fiber Domed Black)
Ultimate F3 Floorboards
Front Fairing Service Access Door Covers (Carbon Fiber Doomed Black)
Sway Bar with Links
Rolo Laser Alignment
Half Cover
A-Arm Daytime Dual Color LED Running Lights with Blinker Module
Hi-Viz DRL and Sequential Mirrors lights
Marinco 12Volt Power Receptacle with polarized leads & slide lock
Show chrome Trunk Shock
Friend-o-mine in Missouri had a bumper sticker on his old Toyota pickup that said HONK IF PARTS FALL OFF.
Maybe one of these would save you a return-trip?
NEW - 2015 RT Limited SE6 Intense Red Pearl - 07/21/15
Retained the old mirrors with TricLed Signals
General Altimax RT43 rear tire (at...17,000 miles) Ran for 36,500 miles
Michelin Defender.......rear tire (at...53,500 miles) Ran for 60,700 miles
Riken Raptor HR.........rear tire (at 114,200 miles)
Vredestein Quatrac 5 front tires (at 70,500 miles, first new fronts!)
Gear Brake Decelerometer Module
OLD - 2012 RT Limited SE5 Pearl White - 01/31/13 - Traded in at 32,600 miles.
BajaRon Anti-sway Bar
Kumho ECSTA AST rear tire (at 14,200 miles)
TricLed Turn Signals in Mirrors
PMK, which Camloc fasteners did you use?? From what I can see they might be the 50F 3700N Series. Also where did you get the fasteners?
2600 series. Where did I get them, well, I walked over to the shelf in the hangar that has Camlocs. Based the length needed on a preliminary thickness measurement. Found the ones I thought would work, grabbed some receptacles and brought them home. Suffice to say, I have all sorts of aircraft hardware available if needed.
For most people, simply a nice stainless screw and a fiber locknut tightened just to snug would suffice.
Thanks for the info. I like the looks of the Camloc vs the Dzus fastener. They are lower profile and less obtrusive.
I found a site that sells them to the public (well I hope so). https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...roduct=CAM2600
Dean Secord AKA seaweed
Veteran: U.S. Air Force
2015 RT-S SE6
My Mods: TricLed Turn Signal, Squared Away Sept, 2016,SpyderPops Bump Skid, SpyderPops Missing Rock Guard, ION camera, Show Chrome Back Rest,
Show Chrome Hitch. Leesure-lite trailer, Hopnel 850 Saddlebag Liners, Hopnel 3 piece lid netset - trunk and saddlebags
Magic Brake Strobe/Flasher, DIY LED light strips on upper and lower A frames, BlueKnight911 Magic Mirrors,
DIY superior grill, USB port, Hwy pegs, DIY Flag mounts for USA and US Air Force flags,
Method to open Frunk and seat without using key, LED headlights and LED fog lights, turn signal switch safety mod
Thanks for the info. I like the looks of the Camloc vs the Dzus fastener. They are lower profile and less obtrusive.
I found a site that sells them to the public (well I hope so). https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...roduct=CAM2600
Just put in push pin panel fasteners ( I added a metal back plate with pop rivets ). the fasteners are like the many push pin style all over the
Lew L
Absolutely could work and offer another option. Certainly will not corrode or be shiny.
Done correctly, this is probably the best low cost, and least complicated solution that many here should utilize if they desire adding a fastener.
I had considered doing this, but opted for something a bit more upscale and also readily available to me.
A person could also drill and fit a round rubber grommet to the outside panel, then use the grommet friction to secure a screw the engages a backside panel hole.
Or as others posted, fabricate a lanyard tether so the panel is not lost to the road, but remains with the machine via the lanyard.
No doubt many varied options and methods. I suspect even a section of self adhesive backed Velcro may work if done right.
Thanks for the info. I like the looks of the Camloc vs the Dzus fastener. They are lower profile and less obtrusive.
I found a site that sells them to the public (well I hope so). https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...roduct=CAM2600
Ive got stuff from them in the past, they are good to work with!!!