Trying to replace the 1 7/8" towball on BRP Genuine tow hitch and not having much luck. But a breaker bar on the ring spanner and started to drag the RTL across the floor.
Is the nut welded to the tow hitch?
Or, is it a bolt that screws up into the tow ball, requiring me to latch onto the tow ball with something to remove?
Trying to replace the 1 7/8" towball on BRP Genuine tow hitch and not having much luck. But a breaker bar on the ring spanner and started to drag the RTL across the floor.
Is the nut welded to the tow hitch? NO
Or, is it a bolt that screws up into the tow ball, requiring me to latch onto the tow ball with something to remove? YES
The is a nut on the coupler that you can tighten that will reduce the rattle. That's what I did on my 622 trailer.
Not sure the adjuster can compensate for 3/32” difference in ball size.
1 7/8” = 1.875” = 47.625mm
1.968” = 50mm
2.00” = 50.8mm
Seems the truth lies in what hitch size is on the trailer. Original poster says the Australian RT622 calls for a 50mm trailer ball, so probably best to get it swapped out.
Not sure the adjuster can compensate for 3/32” difference in ball size.
1 7/8” = 1.875” = 47.625mm
1.968” = 50mm
2.00” = 50.8mm
Seems the truth lies in what hitch size is on the trailer. Original poster says the Australian RT622 calls for a 50mm trailer ball, so probably best to get it swapped out.
You maybe correct, but it cost nothing to try the adjustment first. I know mine rattled a lot before I adjusted it. Now it doesn't rattle at all.
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I had to remove the ball to put a Bushtec hitch pin on. had my neighbor put a crescent wrench on the ball so it wouldn't spin and I used a 1/2" breaker bar with socket. Or course the itch was on the Spyder. Wasn't to bad but that baby was on there.
Hi all, thanks for the other options, handy to know.
While I did have the option to adjust it, for $6.00 for a towball I'd prefer to have everything the same spec as everything else rather than having to adjust the coupling each time I used it on another vehicle.
Had another crack at this time and was able to remove the OEM towball, had no idea the US/Cananda towballs have a bolt that screws into the ball (ours have a stud). Need to drill out the hole from its original size to take the stud of the AU 50mm
Last edited by askitee; 07-23-2019 at 08:46 PM.
Reason: typo
had no idea the US/Cananda towballs have a bolt that screws into the ball (ours have a stud). Need to drill out the hole from its original size to take the stud of the AU 50mm
Both styles are sold here.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
I had to remove the ball to put a Bushtec hitch pin on. had my neighbor put a crescent wrench on the ball so it wouldn't spin and I used a 1/2" breaker bar with socket. Or course the itch was on the Spyder. Wasn't to bad but that baby was on there.
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Yes, oem Spyder hitch uses the bolt style ball. Pretty obvious, but when going to the stud style ball, ensure the hitch structure is adequate thickness, or add washers to prevent bottoming the nut on the threads before getting full tension on the stud threads.
Over the years, it has amazed me how many hitch balls were loose on the hitch, but never fell off because the threads had bottomed out. Not Spyders but cars and trucks pulling bigger trailers.
You do not need to change out your 1-7/8" ball, get down and look under your trailer hitch where the ball fits into. There will be a bolt and nut, usually the nut is a 3/4" size on this type of hitch, and it can be adjusted tighter or looser. When we bought our trailer, I needed to loosen the nut to get the hitch over the ball. It was rather funny because the salesperson did not even know about the hitch lock adjustment on the underside.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-18-2024 at 02:47 AM.
Its been a while since I posted this but i seem to recall the hole for the towball stud was around 3/4" (19mm).
For those still suggesting options, it's simpler to fit the correct towball than have to adjust the tow head each time i switch vehicles. Thanks for the information on other options though
Last edited by askitee; 09-14-2019 at 04:57 AM.
Reason: typo
Its been a while since I posted this but i seem to recall the hole for the towball stud was aroubd 3/4" (19mm).
For those still suggesting options, it's simpler to fit the correct towball than have to adjust the tow head each time i switch vehicles. Thanks for the information on other options though
And if you happen to have a prang or get sprung by the Constabulary here in Aust with your 50mm trailer hitch coupled up to a 1&7/8" ball, it's gonna cost you!! Possibly a LOT!
Far simpler & potentially a whole lot cheaper to fit the correct sized ball - no matter how tight the adjuster might make it seem to fit, the numbers hafta match!
Nsw has no specification on ball size however it refers to AS4177-2 which recommends that 50mm towballs be used. The 1 7/8" ball is still ok so long as it has a weight rating stamped somewhere that is in synch with the weight being towed
A 1 7/8" ball is not ok if hitch is 50mm. There's a very high chance it will detach when traversing lumps & bumps in the road. I wouldn't like a 500kg trailer (and that's probly illegal too) swinging on the chains behind me.
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