We are new to the Spyder and bought a 2014 RT Limited after selling our Goldwing. We tow an Aspen camper. I installed a hitch this week and hooked up the camper for a short test drive and was pleased with the overall handling. However, I am concerned with the fact that the hitch is solidly attached to the swing arm and the trailer tongue will be jerked up and down with every bump in the road. This has to be an issue that has been well covered but I haven't found it. I am interested in hearing comments and suggestions about this because I am concerned that the coupler will wear out quickly and perhaps the camper will see some damage. Help! Thanks.
We are new to the Spyder and bought a 2014 RT Limited after selling our Goldwing. We tow an Aspen camper. I installed a hitch this week and hooked up the camper for a short test drive and was pleased with the overall handling. However, I am concerned with the fact that the hitch is solidly attached to the swing arm and the trailer tongue will be jerked up and down with every bump in the road. This has to be an issue that has been well covered but I haven't found it. I am interested in hearing comments and suggestions about this because I am concerned that the coupler will wear out quickly and perhaps the camper will see some damage. Help! Thanks.
The tongue weight is going to be 50# or less. Trailer couplers can take a lot more abuse than that. Haven't seen any complaints about trailer coupler failure. SpyderAnn has towed her heavily weighted trailer over 250,000 miles on 4 different Spyders so far and if she had experienced any problems she would have said so.
How much does the trailer weigh? I think the max weight can only be 400lbs. I tow a motorcycle cargo trailer(had behind a GW also) and our trailer weighs 250lbs. loaded and it does not bounce much at all. Might try experimenting with tire pressures on the trailer tires. Too much can cause it to bounce pretty badly on certain road surfaces. The Spyder has a pretty stout frame and swing arm configuration, were as our GW's the hitches were mounted to the frame. Others will chime in on this issue. Good luck! Mac
We are new to the Spyder and bought a 2014 RT Limited after selling our Goldwing. We tow an Aspen camper. I installed a hitch this week and hooked up the camper for a short test drive and was pleased with the overall handling. However, I am concerned with the fact that the hitch is solidly attached to the swing arm and the trailer tongue will be jerked up and down with every bump in the road. This has to be an issue that has been well covered but I haven't found it. I am interested in hearing comments and suggestions about this because I am concerned that the coupler will wear out quickly and perhaps the camper will see some damage. Help! Thanks.
Yes, the hitch is attached to the swing arm and not the suspended portion of the frame. Also been on here for a number of years, though, and nobody has reported on coupler failures, or other failures for that matter, based on the fact that the hitch is attached to the swing arm. However, you do want to abide by the limits of 40# tongue weight and 400# trailer weight (trailer and cargo within). Of course, keep the ball clean and lubricated, and even though your coupler size and ball size match, ensure proper adjustment of the coupler latch. Enjoy your camping.
Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 05-18-2018 at 06:31 PM.
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
I hate to disagree with the masses but I did report about hitch problems a few times. I'm no engineer but if a hitch was supposed to be mounted to the suspension you would see other manufacturers doing it. The trailer weight should be part of the suspended load not added to unsprung weight. I towed my Bushtec behind three other bikes before the Spyder with no issues and it gets inspected before each trip. First trip on the Spyder and the tounge mount broke and along with it all the bottles in the cooler.
Each and every movement of the swing arm gets transmitted to the trailer. You don't feel it because you are above the suspension. I built at the time probably the only frame mounted hitch for an RT and it worked great. Shortly after that I sold the Spyder and removed the hitch. I gave it to somebody here but don't remember who.
You will probably be fine but keep a close eye on things because won't be as easy on your trailer as the wing.
I hate to disagree with the masses but I did report about hitch problems a few times. I'm no engineer but if a hitch was supposed to be mounted to the suspension you would see other manufacturers doing it. The trailer weight should be part of the suspended load not added to unsprung weight. I towed my Bushtec behind three other bikes before the Spyder with no issues and it gets inspected before each trip. First trip on the Spyder and the tounge mount broke and along with it all the bottles in the cooler.
Each and every movement of the swing arm gets transmitted to the trailer. You don't feel it because you are above the suspension. I built at the time probably the only frame mounted hitch for an RT and it worked great. Shortly after that I sold the Spyder and removed the hitch. I gave it to somebody here but don't remember who.
You will probably be fine but keep a close eye on things because won't be as easy on your trailer as the wing.
I am pretty much convinced that when BRP designed the hitch for our Spyders, they assigned engineers to do so.!!! And as mentioned in the previous posts, no problems have been reported in all the years..... So....
Richard
* 2012 RS SE5 (hers)
* 2013 ST SM5 (mine)
Daughter RSS SE5 2014
Son in law RSS SM5 2013
P.S. 3 Kumho AST 225/50R15 and 1 Toyo Proxies 4 225/50R15 rear tires
2 sets of Kumho 175/55R15 front tires
1 set of Hankook V4
1 set of Canadian Tire General tire Evertrek RTX in 14" for the 2012 ...
We have an Escapade trailer that we have towed behind our two spiders with a combined millage of about 30,000 mi. no issues with the coupler at all. Keep the ball lubed and coupler adjusted and all will be fine.
Kent
Ride Safe All
2014 RT Limited (Charlotte) in Cognac, Kuryakyn Grips,Tri-Axis Handle Bars, Rivco Armrests, a "finless" BT Dongle, TricLed Fender, Saddlebag, 3rd & 4th brake Lights, Custom Dynamics "Magic Strobes Brake Flasher", BajaRon Sway Bar & Spring Adjusters, Lighted Bumpskid, Rivco Highway Pegs, Rivco Cup Holders and Baker Built Air Wings. 215/60R-15 General Altimax Rt rear tire. 155/60R15 Kumho Solus front tires.
I have towed an Aspen Sentry all over the US since 2011. First it was with a 998 and now the 1330. No issues at all. I park it in the garage with the tongue hanging at the correct height with a luggage scale attached. I load the trailer tongue with a cooler and as much drinks/ice as I will carry. I then load the trailer "basement" a bit at a time and make sure the tongue weight does not exceed the 40 lb. limit.
2015 RT Ltd , Canamspyderaccessories Brake pedal ext. Red
We have pulled 4 different trailers with our spyders, most of the time I'm pulling an Aspen tent trailer and my wife pulls a dog trailer we have way over 50,000 combined miles with out having any trouble. Glacier Park Ride 009.jpg
I am pretty much convinced that when BRP designed the hitch for our Spyders, they assigned engineers to do so.!!! And as mentioned in the previous posts, no problems have been reported in all the years..... So....
Engineers design every vehicle that ever had a recall, or a roll over accident and I retired as an engineering manager. Somewhere on someone's Failure Mode and Effects Analysis is a failed coupler due to stresses caused by those forces. However, I don't want to make an issue out of something that is not. And I totally believe what fjray said in his post.
I don't understand the purpose of a swivel hitch on a vehicle that doesn't lean.
The bike does angle at times along with some of the roads we drive on. (Bike and trailer angle)I wanted to take some of the strain off the hitch area with the swivel. It does make a difference. JMO
As for the up and down movement unless you get a frame mounted hitch its going to bounce up and down.
However, I am concerned with the fact that the hitch is solidly attached to the swing arm and the trailer tongue will be jerked up and down with every bump in the road. This has to be an issue that has been well covered but I haven't found it. I am interested in hearing comments and suggestions about this because I am concerned that the coupler will wear out quickly and perhaps the camper will see some damage. Help! Thanks.
I agree with fjray. You are right to be cautious. The hitch and coupler will not give you any trouble at all. What CAN give you trouble is the constant bouncing up and down and the impact it has on the trailer tongue. Minimize added weight on the tongue. Think about the bending forces in the tongue between the hitch and trailer axle caused by loads on the tongue. Don't put anything fragile in a tongue box, pay attention to how much weight is in the box, don't use a too thin metal for the tongue, and you'll be OK.
Here are pics of my trailer tongue that cracked about 85% of the way around the square tube. This was caused by the constant bouncing of the hitch coupled with the weight of the trailer body and tongue box at about the mid point of the tongue along with the fact the tube steel was too thin. It is 0.060". I had a guy weld plates over the crack and I inserted a heavier tube inside. I'm not worried about it breaking again!
What's puzzling is the fact the top side, which you would expect to be in compression is broken completely while the bottom side, which would be tension you'd think, is not completely broken. Maybe welding on the top side caused it to break first.
I also had to change out the S hooks on the safety chains for carabiner type hooks because the chains would jump loose from the hitch safety chain hook holes.
Last edited by IdahoMtnSpyder; 05-19-2018 at 10:48 PM.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Just so you get a better idea of the bouncing forces on the hitch look at this thread from a couple of years ago. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...-trailer-hitch. Especially look at the pics in post 27. Admittedly the hitch in the post is an inferior design for Spyder use, but a similar design hitch on a Goldwing probably would have survived quite well. I believe all the currently marketed hitches for the Spyder are quite adequate.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
I agree with fjray. You are right to be cautious. The hitch and coupler will not give you any trouble at all. What CAN give you trouble is the constant bouncing up and down and the impact it has on the trailer tongue. Minimize added weight on the tongue. Think about the bending forces in the tongue between the hitch and trailer axle caused by loads on the tongue. Don't put anything fragile in a tongue box, pay attention to how much weight is in the box, don't use a too thin metal for the tongue, and you'll be OK.
Here are pics of my trailer tongue that cracked about 85% of the way around the square tube. This was caused by the constant bouncing of the hitch coupled with the weight of the trailer body and tongue box at about the mid point of the tongue along with the fact the tube steel was too thin. It is 0.060". I had a guy weld plates over the crack and I inserted a heavier tube inside. I'm not worried about it breaking again!
What's puzzling is the fact the top side, which you would expect to be in compression is broken completely while the bottom side, which would be tension you'd think, is not completely broken. Maybe welding on the top side caused it to break first.
I also had to change out the S hooks on the safety chains for carabiner type hooks because the chains would jump loose from the hitch safety chain hook holes.
Can I ask what trailer you have that experienced tongue failure?
Can I ask what trailer you have that experienced tongue failure?
I made it from scratch.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
I know there can be occasional exceptions for some folks but I never understood the reason that most folks feel the obsessive need to fill up a cooler with ice and stuff when they leave their house for a trip.
Most every gas station we have ever stopped at on a trip had something cool to drink so our empty cooler was not a problem.
When we are almost to our destination we stop and put ice in the cooler and put the stuff that needs to be refrigerated in the cooler and the rest in a better cargo area away from the tongue until we get to our campsite.
Again, I know there may be occasional exceptions so please don't go on about how you have to keep your insulin on ice, along with all your home made beer in glass bottles.
I have a Bunkhouse trailer that I have towed for over 15,000 miles with the Spyder RTL over a 3 year period. I have never had anything in the cooler break, and even the mantel in the Coleman lantern int he soft case in the trailer stays intact 90 percent of the time.
The first trip I took with the Spyder and the Bunkhouse, I noticed that the trailer was pitched toward the spyder because of hitch height, and I knew that this could put more stress on the tongue. Before the second trip I changed the angle of the tongue a little and took care of that problem.
Yes I do load my cooler up with ice, drinks (plastic bottles), fruit, and veggies before we start out on our trip and travel with it fully loaded. While some my want to stop at a gas station to enjoy a cold beverage, we love to find a spot on the road, such as a scenic turn out, and set and enjoy a cold drink and a snack. The view is always much better.
As stated above, the way you load is critical! Load so that the trailer is balanced with just a light load on the tongue, this means less wear and tear on the hitch and tongue. DO NOT load where there is NO weight on the tongue, this will cause the trailer to not tow correctly and become a safety hazard, and could cause loss of control of the bike!
Just from what I read in this thread alone, it seams that all of the manufactured trailers are not having any problems. Is it possible that the steel tube you used for your tongue is thinner than what they use?
I have a Bunkhouse trailer that I have towed for over 15,000 miles with the Spyder RTL over a 3 year period. I have never had anything in the cooler break, and even the mantel in the Coleman lantern int he soft case in the trailer stays intact 90 percent of the time.
The first trip I took with the Spyder and the Bunkhouse, I noticed that the trailer was pitched toward the spyder because of hitch height, and I knew that this could put more stress on the tongue. Before the second trip I changed the angle of the tongue a little and took care of that problem.
Yes I do load my cooler up with ice, drinks (plastic bottles), fruit, and veggies before we start out on our trip and travel with it fully loaded. While some my want to stop at a gas station to enjoy a cold beverage, we love to find a spot on the road, such as a scenic turn out, and set and enjoy a cold drink and a snack. The view is always much better.
As stated above, the way you load is critical! Load so that the trailer is balanced with just a light load on the tongue, this means less wear and tear on the hitch and tongue. DO NOT load where there is NO weight on the tongue, this will cause the trailer to not tow correctly and become a safety hazard, and could cause loss of control of the bike!
Just from what I read in this thread alone, it seams that all of the manufactured trailers are not having any problems. Is it possible that the steel tube you used for your tongue is thinner than what they use?
Not to beat a dead horse but my trailer is a Bushtec which is arguably one of the best built and the violent ride broke the tongue mounting bolts which are grade 8 bolts. I'm not trying to bash the folks at BRP but I think they took the easy way out with the hitch design. It does work but could be so much better.
If you have any doubts that a frame mount is the way to go just start looking at hitches and count how many you find mounted to the drive axle other than some ATV's.
When I designed and fabricated a frame mount hitch for the RT it took a lot of time figuring out how to mount it to be safe and structural. I built it using 4130 chrome moly tubing for the main parts . BRP would have to charge a lot of money to supply a frame mount and dealers would charge a ton to install it.
Most manufacturers don't authorize the use of a hitch and will try to void the warranty if one is used. BRP will tell you that only their trailer will protect your warranty. Carry on.
I have a LUMINA DIAMOND XL MOTORCYCLE TRAILER, and it came with a swivel coupler. I have had some people question why a swivel hitch when the bike doesn't lean. How would you respond to that, because I'm new to the world of pulling a trailer behind my 2014 Can AM Spyder RT?
I have a LUMINA DIAMOND XL MOTORCYCLE TRAILER, and it came with a swivel coupler. I have had some people question why a swivel hitch when the bike doesn't lean. How would you respond to that, because I'm new to the world of pulling a trailer behind my 2014 Can AM Spyder RT?
Because most of their trailers are sold to owners who pull them with a two wheeler! And for pulling with a two wheeler you definitely want/need a swivel coupler. Prevents major damage when the inevitable bike tipping over happens. Plus, from what I see on their website it was a freebie extra when the trailer was first sold.
You might consider taking the swivel coupler off and selling it for a few bucks, or keep it and put it back on if and when you sell the trailer.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.