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Active Member
Crooked Handlebars/Loose Steering Stem
Noticed this evening that the handlebars are crooked, one side/end back further then the other, when the wheels are pointed straight. Also the handlebar bracket appears to be loose on the steering stem (they move about 1/4 inch up and down) anybody else notice this.
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I believe I read on here that the play up and down is common. Don't know about the crooked bars. cueman
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Curious...🤔
Did you have any front end work..? Alignment...? This could knock if off as for the up and down if all tight could be normal but my RS has none....
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Isn't there a section in the owners manual that addresses this? Page 25 talks about the handlebar clamp mechanism.
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I have the same problem - a crooked handlebar. I have an appointment with my dealer in three weeks. I'll report back afterwards.
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I had to have my handlebar adjusted as well. When the dealer got my permanent license plate, I had them fix that when I came in to get the plate.
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I have the same problem. I'll be taking the handlebars off. Expect to see that they are one tooth of on the spline. That means I may have to re-torque the "King" nut again.
More when I get done.
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Originally Posted by Shermandns
I have the same problem. I'll be taking the handlebars off. Expect to see that they are one tooth of on the spline. That means I may have to re-torque the "King" nut again.
More when I get done.
You figure out how to get to the problem? Your problem was not slightly off right to left but leaning to the left, am I correct?
BTW, I'm off to the hardware store today, want me to find a windscreen screw for you? I can use one of mine for sizing.
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Originally Posted by Shermandns
I have the same problem. I'll be taking the handlebars off. Expect to see that they are one tooth of on the spline. That means I may have to re-torque the "King" nut again.
More when I get done.
There are no splines on the handlebar stem. It is just a smooth tapered press fit.
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Hey, NewYorkSpider, Did you ever get anything done about this?
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Active Member
Not yet, living here in northern N.Y we have had 11 straight days of rain and temps in the 40's and 50's. Only have 68 miles on it. I personally think the alignment is off probably if wheels are aligned then straighten the handlebars. Have sort of gotten use to it only really noticeable when stopped, handlebars straight wheels cocked or vise-versa.
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Sorry about the weather there! I have a nephew who lives up that way and he said it has been a brutal winter. The problem with my friend's Rally does not seem to be alignment but I suppose it could be. After figuring out how the attachment works, we were considering tapping the center bolt to see if it would loosen and then realigning the bars (similar to the old bicycle handlebar alignment system.) He hasn't tried it yet, is going to try to find a dealer close by to take a look at it.
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Here is a tutorial from the user Dedel from the german forum spyderforum.de: You can adjust the handlebar, unfortunately some dealer don't check the screw for tightness.
If you look from above at the middle of the handlebar you can see a black plastic cap, which once remove, so you can reach the screw. Remove the screw, push it from bottom to top against the handlebars or slightly hit it until the handlebars are loose, then you can readjust it.
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Originally Posted by Batmobil-F3
Here is a tutorial from the user Dedel from the german forum spyderforum.de: You can adjust the handlebar, unfortunately some dealer don't check the screw for tightness.
If you look from above at the middle of the handlebar you can see a black plastic cap, which once remove, so you can reach the screw. Remove the screw, push it from bottom to top against the handlebars or slightly hit it until the handlebars are loose, then you can readjust it.
If it is already loose then you could use this method. If the bars are tight and were just installed crooked it take a special tool to get the bars loose. No amount of hitting is going to get them loose, I tried and then bought the tool.
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What is the special tool? What is it doing to loosen the grip caused by the tapered fit?
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Seems Dedel is working with a tight bar to begin with; I dont understand what he means by "..push it from bottom to top against the handlebars...". Push what? And how would you push from bottom to top? I think it lost something in the translation!
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I try to explain it with other words: first remove the screw completely. To loosen the handlebars, press / hit lightly against the handlebars from below.
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It is similar to a bolt with a long smooth shaft at the bottom and threads at the top. It screws in in place of the bolt pulling the handlebars loose. The BRP part# 529036459 steering stem puller.
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Active Member
Spoke to my dealer yesterday and brought bike in this morning tech said some are worse than others and he had seen this before 1/2 hour later I was on my way with straight bars.
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Don't know if everyone knows it but the dealer installs the bars during assembly. If the bars are crooked it is the dealers fault.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by gskinner
It is similar to a bolt with a long smooth shaft at the bottom and threads at the top. It screws in in place of the bolt pulling the handlebars loose. The BRP part# 529036459 steering stem puller.
Has anybody purchased the steering stem puller yet? Would you be willing to rent it to others given a reasonable deposit? I tried to get my dealer to correct mine today and was told it is not possible; the front end must be aligned to correct it. I just had my ROLO alignment done and don't want to do it again.
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Very Active Member
You would think the Rolo tech would have picked that up and corrected it.
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Freddy
You would think the Rolo tech would have picked that up and corrected it.
yeah, well he didn't. However, my steering stem puller came in the mail today and it was only a 10 minute job to get the handlebars clocked properly; my OCD is satisfied. It is worth mentioning that when replacing the steering stem screw the proper torque setting is only 18 ft/lbs. Mine felt way heavier than that as it came from assembly.
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