This was over on the F3 forum but I think it applies to any of the models with limited access to the rear tire valve stem (for both checking tire pressure and inflating).
In a previous post I can't find any longer, Blue Knight had suggested a product from Kurvy Girl. It's an 85 degree valve stem designed to be installed permanently in the wheel. I think I've found the product here; https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/prod...irlhpffdk4u1u1
It does require removing the wheel and tire. BK had drilled a new hole 2" inboard of the brake side of the wheel so it doesn't interfere with tire mounting tools but is still more accessible than the OEM one (which he kept in place). Maybe he could post again in response to this the details of his solution.
Originally Posted by Trapdoor
I use a Stop & Go (stopngo.com) product to easily check the tire pressures on my F3S and on my previous two-wheelers. IMHO, it should also work on the F3-T. The product is the EZ-Air Tire Gauge (quick release with gauge). The gauge-less version is the 10-inch Mini-Air Compressor Air Hose Extension w/Quick Release. The valve stem is on the sprocket side of the rear wheel and is accessible through the opening in the sprocket when the valve stem is at it's lowest point. Hope this answers your question.
This was over on the F3 forum but I think it applies to any of the models with limited access to the rear tire valve stem (for both checking tire pressure and inflating).
In a previous post I can't find any longer, Blue Knight had suggested a product from Kurvy Girl. It's an 85 degree valve stem designed to be installed permanently in the wheel. I think I've found the product here; https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/prod...irlhpffdk4u1u1
It does require removing the wheel and tire. BK had drilled a new hole 2" inboard of the brake side of the wheel so it doesn't interfere with tire mounting tools but is still more accessible than the OEM one (which he kept in place). Maybe he could post again in response to this the details of his solution.
.. I removed the post because no one was interested ...... However you have found the item I described, it is pictured on a Rim other than one from a Spyder ..... But you are correct and the hole needs to be the size of the threaded part of this STEM ( not pictured ) and it MUST be at least 2 inches from the rounded edge so the tire machine won't hit it ...... since the brake disc is a lot smaller than the drive Sprocket there is way more room to access the air valve .... PS I wouldn't get the ALuminum ones She sells .... Then I assembled it with silicone just to be sure it wouldn't leak ( because you have to take the tire off again to fix it ) ....... Thanks for the Pic ...... Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 07-29-2017 at 06:08 PM.
I have a question: What do you do with the old tire valve opening?
Do you have it welded shut; or just leave the old valve in place?
Okay: TWO questions...
, I've done three wheels to date .... the first one I removed the OEM stem, had to bring the wheel home to fill in the OEM hole ( I used some JB weld, then Bondo , it looked great but a pain in the A** ) .... then next two I just put silicone in the OEM stem from the inside, but you really don't have to do that ...... Mike
This is the setup I presently use to check the inflation in the tires and add pressure if needed. The inflator is a standard Ryobi inflator but I replaced their cumbersome clamp-on valve-stem connector with this brass one I found on Amazon. I roll the bike bike and forth to situate the valve stem on the rear tire almost straight back for the best access to the OEM valve stem. Until I find something better, this works pretty well. So does cleaning the wheels regularly and well with something like Merlin's Blood.
, I've done three wheels to date .... the first one I removed the OEM stem, had to bring the wheel home to fill in the OEM hole ( I used some JB weld, then Bondo , it looked great but a pain in the A** ) .... then next two I just put silicone in the OEM stem from the inside, but you really don't have to do that ...... Mike
I've used JB weld for lots of things but I wouldn't use it in an application that could potentially cause harm to myself or others. Sudden deflation of the rear tire could be ugly. I would TIG weld the hole and pressure test it and use the bondo for cosmetic finish. To each their own.
I have used this valve stem for many years on the GL1800's in lieu of the factory rubber mounted stems that dry rot. For those of you that are using the FOBO Trike TPMS, this is what it's designed for. Mount your sensor on the top stem and add air through the side stem. Best to acquire it and have it at time of next tire change whereas they can install it while changing tire.
Where do you get it??? Ask Jacob at Lamonster Garage and he will get them for you...
Buckskin
Originally Posted by UtahPete
This was over on the F3 forum but I think it applies to any of the models with limited access to the rear tire valve stem (for both checking tire pressure and inflating).
In a previous post I can't find any longer, Blue Knight had suggested a product from Kurvy Girl. It's an 85 degree valve stem designed to be installed permanently in the wheel. I think I've found the product here; https://www.kurveygirl.com/shop/prod...irlhpffdk4u1u1
It does require removing the wheel and tire. BK had drilled a new hole 2" inboard of the brake side of the wheel so it doesn't interfere with tire mounting tools but is still more accessible than the OEM one (which he kept in place). Maybe he could post again in response to this the details of his solution.
I have used this valve stem for many years on the GL1800's in lieu of the factory rubber mounted stems that dry rot. For those of you that are using the FOBO Trike TPMS, this is what it's designed for. Mount your sensor on the top stem and add air through the side stem. Best to acquire it and have it at time of next tire change whereas they can install it while changing tire.
Where do you get it??? Ask Jacob at Lamonster Garage and he will get them for you...
Buckskin
Well there you go. I didn’t even know they existed, Buckskin. I didn’t want to use a T and have the FOBO sensor hanging off to one side. This will make getting air in the rear (the F3 rear, not MY rear) much easier than skinning knuckles attaching the flexible hose to the stock valve. Thanks very much
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round, with sag adjusted for extra 3/8” clearance up front
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
Here is picture of the new FOBO Trike 2 sensor on the T-valve.
Buckskin
Originally Posted by Peteoz
Well there you go. I didn’t even know they existed, Buckskin. I didn’t want to use a T and have the FOBO sensor hanging off to one side. This will make getting air in the rear (the F3 rear, not MY rear) much easier than skinning knuckles attaching the flexible hose to the stock valve. Thanks very much