My 2012 RT Limited SE5 had been dealing with a failing battery. Placed it on a battery tender which helped and occasionally have had to jump start it. After not starting for a few weeks while on the battery tender, I put the key in, turned it to ON, the gauges swing around and then it bypasses the Startup Menu (where it says to press the Mode button to confirm reading the Safety Card). I press the Mode button anyway and then press the Start Button, nothing happens. Not even a click. Purchased and installed a new battery and it still bypasses the Startup Menu and will not start. I held down the Mode, Set, and Turn Signal button, no codes are displayed. Checked the Kill switch. Checked the fuses. Ideas? Thanks!
Whenever the battery is disconnected and reconnected the first time. There will not be a message to press the mode button or a need to do so. That's normal.
Go back to the basics. Seat yourself on the Spyder. Turn on the key. Press mode button when told to do so. Press down on the brake pedal. Look for the brake lights to come on. Make sure the kill switch is in the run position. Press the start button.
However, I would still try the basic steps outlined by billybovine just to be sure. If you get a new battery, don't scrimp. You don't need the best battery in the world. But don't go cheap. Spyders are very sensitive to battery condition.
The new battery... where did you get it..? what brand/kind is it..? was it dry and then filled before they gave it to you..? if so was it put on a charger (not a tender)..? just trying to see if the new battery is fully charged...
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
The bike is in Reverse (semi automatic) and I think will stay that way until it starts then the computer will shift it into Neutral.
I seated myself on it, turned key to On, was not told to press the Mode button. It goes directly to the main screen (see attached picture). Pressed the Mode button anyway. Pressed down on the brake pedal and brake lights came on. Kill switch is in the run position. When I press the Start button, not even a click.
The new battery came from Batteries Plus. Yuasa XTAX24HL-BS, I think it was prefilled (isn't that what the BS means?), but there is a box inside the main box that says Battery Fluid, Acid. I fully charged it on a charger. Didn't get it from the dealer because I will be trading in later this year for a 2019 Spyder.
All the other electronics seem to be working (radio, turn signals, fog lights, position lights). The headlights do not come on. The park light indicator is blinking and the oil light is solid. Still no error codes. Front lights go out when key is removed, but Backup Lights stay on for a couple of seconds.
Very good description of what is happening. From your description, the no start problem has nothing to do with your battery. That is because everything powers up as it should, but absolutely nothing happens when you push the start button.
Since you do not have to push the mode button when the key is turned on, it has been off for more then 5 minutes and the battery has not been disconnected. May point to a pre start relay or fuse. I will take a look at the wiring diagram for a possible cause that matches your symtoms.
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When I turn the key to On, there is a high pitched whine for a few seconds before the screen comes on. I think that is the fuel pump.
There is no message about a bad key and I have tried both of my keys.
So that means the ecm is happy with all the safety inputs and is ready to go.
My best guess then is the actual start button has gone bad. But they usually start working intermittently first. The other possible cause is the pre start relay is loose or bad. It is in position R2 in the fuse box. Pull it out and reseat it back in and or switch it with another one of the other ones. See item 2 in the attached picture.
If the battery is bad or there is a bad connection to it or ground. Everything will light up fine but when the start button is pressed. There will be a click and the starter will try to engage. The voltage drops below 10V. The gauge cluster will go blank. The starter will disengage. Voltage will go back and gauge cluster will reboot. There is no description of that. Pressing the start button does absolutely nothing. So not a battery issue.
Well, one last thing. When you go through your start procedure and press the start push button, can you feel relay R2 click? Easy to feel. Is so, the button and circuitry is fine. Another gotcha that can get people when changing a battery, is to miss getting all of the wires on the battery terminals. The positive terminal has three wires that need connected. One is to the starter solenoid.
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Relay 2 does not click. I'm going to take the fiberglass back off tomorrow and check whether 3 wires are on the positive terminal. You may be a mind (or Spydie) reader. WIll keep you posted. Thanks again!
Well, one last thing. When you go through your start procedure and press the start push button, can you feel relay R2 click? Easy to feel. Is so, the button and circuitry is fine. Another gotcha that can get people when changing a battery, is to miss getting all of the wires on the battery terminals. The positive terminal has three wires that need connected. One is to the starter solenoid.
Good point. Every Spyder I have seen has only one ring terminal going to positive post on the battery. But RT series wiring diagram shows 3 and if the wire going to the starter solenoid is not connected. That would do it.
The store must have put the acid in. Thanks for the info on the BS designation.
I'm sorry but I don't understand. You said there was a box inside the bigger box. Did that box have battery acid in it? Did you try to install the acid into the battery? So you know there is actually acid in the battery? And finally, ALL batteries should be brought up to full charge before use. Did you charge it?
Edit: So I see it's been over a month since her last reply. I wonder how it all worked out.
We finally found the perfect trailer. Needed one big enough for 2 Spyders and light enough to tow behind a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. Bought an aluminum Futura tandem open car hauler. The bed lowers with a cable / wench system, no ramps! Anyway, we took her to the nearest dealer, and while unstrapping it, the mechanic hopped on and the darned thing started on the first try. He had to explanation, thought that I didn't know how to start the bike I've ridden for 7 years.
We returned home and went to start it and it wouldn't start again! Grrrrr... Several days later I tried it again, but pressed down on the brake really hard (fueled by frustration) and it STARTED!
Days later, it didn't start until I pressed down on the brake really hard again.
Anyone know why I am having to press down harder on the brake? Should I have the brake system checked or is there anything I can do to troubleshoot. Hate to spend a lot of money on it as we will be getting rid of it in the next year so I can get a 2019.
If it is in gear you just have to press the brake pedal hard enough to make the brake lights come on. If it is not in gear you should not have to press the brake pedal at all.
How hard do you have to press the brake pedal to make the brake lights come on?