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03-19-2017, 09:02 PM
#351
I'm not sure what, or where my problem lies. The 2012 Can Am Spyder RT-S I own, has a display that went dark. The bike can be turned on, but cannot be shifted into any gear. All others things, signals, head, fog, and tail lights work. The fuses are good, the one battery terminal I can get to, has a tight connection. And as the situation left me stranded, I had the insurance company's roadside service come out and cart the Spyder back to the house. I hope, that it doesn't need a new display.
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04-18-2017, 03:25 PM
#352
Thanks Illinois boy, When I purchased my Spyder RT I was fortunate to read this during the first week I had it. I really appreciate you taking the time as it has made my experience so much more enjoyable knowing this important information.
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05-24-2017, 07:42 AM
#353
Suggestion
Thank you for this list of recommendations and for keeping it current. I have a suggestion for us non-US readers. Can you put kph equivalents beside the mph numbers? In Canada our speed limits generally go from 40 to 100kph in increments of 10. ( 40-50 for side streets; 60-70 for main roads; 80-90 for highways; 100 for freeways)
thanks!....brian
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05-25-2017, 07:45 PM
#354
Do not hide behind the windshield?
So I am a brand new Spyder owner. I've ridden less than 100 miles on my used 2008 GS SM5. I've done the drills and read the manual. Starting off slow as I learn this new way to ride. I've done some things right and some things wrong already. (Going to shift later and help the clutch and motor live longer!) I don't understand the "Don't try to hide behind the windshield" reminder. Can you give me some context? My used Spyder has an aftermarket tall wind screen which extends out to the grips. On a hot day I get almost no airflow through the vents on my ballistic jacket. I have the original short wind screen. Thanks for the great info. I'm going to check the fuses and battery connections when it comes back from the shop. Thanks again for the info and all of the helpful Spyderlovers out there!
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 01-24-2019 at 10:55 PM.
2008 GS , Standard Seal Floorboard extension with Spyder logo cut out and teflon spacers to raise it. Yellow/Black
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06-06-2017, 06:27 PM
#355
Active Member
Originally Posted by rosebelle
Peter, fellow Australian, don't you realize that our vehicles are under less stress than most of the "up and over" world. Something to do with not having to contend with gravity, I've been told before. Our issues are around requiring stickier tyres to stop us from falling off the earth, aren't they
Thanks for your detail, I'm still asking for actual figures (% of Spyders) where normal (old fashioned?) revs have been used to cause significant failures/premature wear - I was not initially arguing the "against" the higher revving argument. But I see things creep into people's opinion that may be questionable/illogical.
The point is made, and accepted, that driving in an optimal rev range produces the best power but economy not necessarily so, and what does fuel economy have to do with the subject anyway?
Silly examples that don't support the argument:
I've heard aeroplane engines need to rev. on this thread: what 2700rpm is high?
You have written not to "lug" truck engines at 600 rpm. Who does that?
How does trucks running at 1200 - 2400rpm equate to faster running engines? For a few examples.
Often I hear the implied stupid argument that an engine uses the least amount of fuel at the highest torque or power revolutions. Laws of Physics suggest otherwise.
Not trying to be too picky but "modern cars refuse to select their highest gears" is not universal at all. The ones that I have come across all do go to the top gear quickly. Yes they have learned behaviour controlling gear changes, based on load/throttle position etc, but that is to maintain adequate power, and control emissions.
You mentioned 4WD I've had quite a few, just looking at a new Prado (top popular 4WD) to replace the wife's. It is offered with 6 speed (2 overdrives), the 4th gear no different to past 5 speed model, strongly suggesting the designers are targeting economy.
My Mitsubishi Challenger switches to top very quickly, adding a "chip" has created more power and torque but the engine spends even more time at low revs, and with improved economy. No discernible extra wear. Reading 4WD mags , the Internet and Forums don't suggest revving engines at all, on my readings. First 4WD bought new 1983, probably driven 0ne million Kms in them. My various F100/Bronco's clearly ran most efficiently at low low revs (did probably 400,000 Km's in those (bullet proof). I can go on. You did not mention marine engines - tell me about these modern engines! ha
.
Tesla? isn't "don't have any other gear choices at all" because they are electric?
Maybe I haven't learnt the hard way yet. But the last fifty years of extensive driving numerous types of engine things does not support the argument "revving is better", if I am now to argue the "against" case.
I'm not saying that you should "lug" an engine at all. Sensible driving of course (I understand what has been said and there is some truth in it all).
Evidence on Spyders, other than anecdotal please.
You logic seems to use common sense, but one thing that could enter the equation. There has been no mention of how the computer controls the fuel map and timing. could be very possible that excess rich or lean situations can occur the way it is set up. Note, that I have zero idea how it is set up. I do know that running for long times either rich or lean and or retarded or advanced timing can certainly lead to issues. As the rider, We do not have the necessary sensors and gauges to assess those conditions and must assume that keeping it in the suggested power band will have the engine run at its best efficiency either for power, economy or both. I know this is my first post and I am a NOOBIE to this forum and a Spyder owner, but I have had a career in aviation as a mechanic and Aircraft inspector. Those engines have most of that work done by the pilot through RPM control and manual mixture control and to some extent engine cooling, so it is much different.
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07-05-2017, 01:36 PM
#356
Thanks
More helpful than you can possible know for new riders like me.
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09-08-2017, 04:43 PM
#357
Originally Posted by OKey
More helpful than you can possible know for new riders like me.
Thank You
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10-16-2017, 07:39 AM
#358
Awesome Thread!!
Newbie here😀. Thank you so much for sharing your advice!! I am almost finished reading my manual. You have educated me on areas not mentioned in my manual.
Thxs!
2017 Can Am Spyder F3 Limited (Black)
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11-10-2017, 07:57 AM
#359
Battery Tender ?
Would it be safe to have the battery hooked up to the tender with the storage cover on ? Unfortunately it is getting that time of year in the midwest. Thanks
Dave
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11-12-2017, 10:43 AM
#360
Originally Posted by Fire34
Would it be safe to have the battery hooked up to the tender with the storage cover on ? Unfortunately it is getting that time of year in the midwest. Thanks
Dave
I have mine hooked-up at all times when not riding, with the top-cover on it. That is the smaller cover that only covers the top-half of the Spyder. A full cover would likely not present a problem since it is a tender instead of a charger; however, for myself, I would allow for some circulation if possible.
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11-20-2017, 02:36 PM
#361
Active Member
Great thread
Really appreciated this thread. Had great info, and answered some of my questions. Thanks much for sharing.
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12-18-2017, 01:30 PM
#362
Can’t move my beloved Spyder
Any advice on how to get my spyder into neutral when the battery is completely shot?
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12-18-2017, 02:23 PM
#363
Start new thread
Originally Posted by joemcgriff
Any advice on how to get my spyder into neutral when the battery is completely shot?
There is a way to do it manually. I thought it was in the owners manual, I searched in my manual with no luck.
I would suggest start a new thread You will get your answer for sure
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02-23-2018, 05:18 PM
#364
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02-23-2018, 08:11 PM
#365
Very Active Member
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08-06-2018, 03:43 PM
#366
New Spyder
Thanks for the list of things new Spyder owners should know. Picking my new RT Limited tomorrow. Going from Harleys to the Spyder. I hope I like the Spyder as much as I liked the Harleys.
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03-25-2019, 08:08 AM
#367
Thanks!!
This is a GREAT article, it helped me Immensely.
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04-01-2019, 02:31 PM
#368
Great information here. I truly have learned a lot.
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05-24-2019, 05:33 PM
#369
Active Member
EVERY FORUM should have a sticky like this one. Great job!!
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05-29-2019, 06:44 AM
#370
Active Member
I just got mine Sat and I'm glad I found this post! Thanks!
"Friend to those who have no friends. Enemy to those who need no enemies. Headache to those who have no aspirin."~ The Phantom Texter
2019 F3 s , Neutrino Aurora Accessory Fuse Block Blue
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05-31-2019, 11:52 PM
#371
I think a lot of the RPM debate is age related. Older people grew up in a time where engine technology was going from points to an electronic module. Engines back then were designed to just cruise around at lower RPM's, and driving styles were laid back.
The technology in today's engines is amazing. For performance, efficiency, and now emissions, engines are designed to run at higher RPM's. The tight tolerances, quality alloys, bearings, and advancements in oil make the "wearing them out" issue non-existent.
When my dad went from a 1983 motorcycle to his 2006, I had to retrain him how to ride it. He was trying to ride at 2500-3500rpm. After explaining to him to keep it above 4k, he was amazed at how smooth it was, how much better it shifted, how much more power it had on tap, and how much more enjoyable it was to ride. That bike has 100k miles on it now...all stock, nothing done to it. I "grew up" riding inline 4-cylinders. They don't begin to wake up until 7k RPM. The Spyder is an inline 3. Ride it as such! Not like a big air-cooled twin...
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06-18-2019, 08:54 PM
#372
HI Illinois boy.
Thanks for this post and maintaining it. I've had my 2017 RTL 14 months now and still come back to this post from time to time just in case I missed something. May your rides be long and trouble free.
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06-24-2019, 07:05 PM
#373
Originally Posted by philbtv
So I am a brand new Spyder owner. I've ridden less than 100 miles on my used 2008 GS SM5. I've done the drills and read the manual. Starting off slow as I learn this new way to ride. I've done some things right and some things wrong already. (Going to shift later and help the clutch and motor live longer!) I don't understand the "Don't try to hide behind the windshield" reminder. Can you give me some context? My used Spyder has an aftermarket tall wind screen which extends out to the grips. On a hot day I get almost no airflow through the vents on my ballistic jacket. I have the original short wind screen. Thanks for the great info. I'm going to check the fuses and battery connections when it comes back from the shop. Thanks again for the info and all of the helpful Spyderlovers out there!
This comment was not to be taken literally, but rather was an attempt to have new riders realize they are not in an enclosed vehicle when riding a Spyder, and the experience is not going to be the same. They should just enjoy the experience of being in the wind. That's all it was referencing. I'll edit it.
Ride safe and often,
Illinois Boy
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11-11-2019, 07:48 PM
#374
This is a great thread. I have been given conflicting information from local mechanics and other riders. Does anyone have a link or site where BRP, Rotax, or CanAm provides this suggested shift point information for the 998cc SE5? My 2013 RT Limited SE5 manual says NOTHING.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 11-11-2019 at 11:31 PM.
Reason: Readability
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11-11-2019, 08:44 PM
#375
Very Active Member
I had a 998 cc ST-S before I traded for an F3 with the 1330 triple. When upshifting the 998 shift at 5000 to 5500 RPM’s and you will be fine.
2020 F3 Ltd
Spyderpops Bumpskid
Spyderpops Brake/Run/Turn Signal LED's
Lamonster Garage LED Fog Lights and Headlights
2013 ST-S retired 1/9/16 at 25,061 miles
2015 F3S sold at 77,565 miles.
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