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Test pilot experience Baja Ron new NGK Iridium IX spark plugs 2015 F3-S SE6 Spyder
Noticeable improved torque/pulling power off idle to 6,500 rpm with new NGK Iridium IX spark plugs installed in my 2015 F3-S SE6 Spyder 1330cc in line triple engine.
Also noticeable increased quicker response torque/pulling power cruising at 80 mph and getting on the throttle hard.
A quicker start warm up with rpm dropping to smoother idle.
Bottom line:
Noticeable (seat of the pants) performance increased torque/pulling power with new NGK Iridium IX spark plugs (come pregapped at .032), over the stock spark plugs.
Contact BajaRon (a site sponsor) for new NGK Iridium IX spark plugs.
Note: a very difficult job changing spark plugs in my 2015 F3-S Spyder; probably worth the $$ to have BRP service mechanic change spark plugs, and new gas filter.
Enjoy your rydes.
Jim
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I had the same experience with my test spark plugs if you thought it was hard on an f3 on my RTS was a nightmare I had to take the trunk off. Those spark plugs are winners I would recommend them to anybody tomorrow I'm taking them for a longer ride
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I got a set for Ann. Will put them on next week.
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Joe please let me know how long it took you to change the plugs out Thanks RudyB
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Guys, what plug gap did you use?
Dan
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they are pregapped. leave them alone.
2015 rts-white pearl- mods- '16 F3 fat 6 chrome wheels,
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Originally Posted by irvin48
they are pregapped. leave them alone.
Good advise generally for the Iridium spark plugs. They come gaped at 32 thousandths. But the gap can be adjusted. We've found that a gap of 38-40 works best. But you must be very careful when adjusting Iridium spark plugs. You cannot put any pressure on the center electrode. They are extremely hard and extremely brittle. You need a gap tool that will move the grounding electrode without touching the center electrode. like the one pictured below. You can use a wire or flat gauge to check gap as this will not put enough pressure on the center electrode to do any damage.
GapTool1.jpg
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
We've found that a gap of 38-40 works best.
So.....when comparing, do you compare with a stock plug that has that same gap too ?
A wider gap means that a higher spark voltage is needed to jump the gap.
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Originally Posted by Easy Rider
So.....when comparing, do you compare with a stock plug that has that same gap too ?
A wider gap means that a higher spark voltage is needed to jump the gap.
We have found that there is enough spark energy to jump the wider gap when ridden in the manner intended (proper RPM for the conditions, etc.). Most manufactures do not tune spark plugs for best performance. They tune them for reliability in all expected conditions. If you are going to lug your engine or ride in ways that tend to foul the plug, then I would recommend keeping the narrower gap so that your spark plug can overcome these less than ideal conditions.
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
We have found that there is enough spark energy to jump the wider gap when ridden in the manner intended
Yes.....but you missed the point.
IF....you are comparing one plug to another and set the gap wider on one of them, then that one will be pretty much guaranteed to have a "hotter" spark and that might skew the comparison.
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What makes you think a wider plug gap makes a hotter spark?
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The think the OP stated that he used the .032 pre-gapped plugs. What are the OEM plugs gapped at? With wear, the gap increases. It would be very hard to get a perfect apples to apples comparison. Did he also change out the plug wires at the same time? I still think it shows that it is a good cheap upgrade to do.
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Yes, I put in the pregapped NGK Iridium IX spark plugs from Baja Ron in my 2015 F3S Spyder 1330cc triple engine, that does not have spark plug wires; just the coils on top incorporated into spark plug connectors.
I noticed seat of the pants increase in torque/pulling power, & roll-on at hwy speeds!
(I got the F3S sideways spinning rear tire taking off turning a sharp left corner with a fast car bearing down at me, lol).
Surprised at noticeable quicker throttle response.
Jim
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Originally Posted by kdp1308
The think the OP stated that he used the .032 pre-gapped plugs. What are the OEM plugs gapped at? With wear, the gap increases. It would be very hard to get a perfect apples to apples comparison. Did he also change out the plug wires at the same time? I still think it shows that it is a good cheap upgrade to do.
The whole point of Iridium spark plugs is that there is virtually no wear. Thus, the gap does not change over time. People who replace Iridium spark plugs usually say they still look brand new.
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Originally Posted by spyder stryder
What makes you think a wider plug gap makes a hotter spark?
The wider the gap, the more voltage required to jump across.
Basic physics.
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Originally Posted by Easy Rider
The wider the gap, the more voltage required to jump across.
Basic physics.
Absolutely true.
Ideally, you want the widest gap that available voltage will jump. The wider the gap, the quicker and more fully the fuel charge is ignited and burned. This will give you maximum energy from the fuel charge. Of course, at some point the gap will exceed the voltage capabilities and you'll get no spark at all.
The amount of voltage required to jump a particular gap changes with conditions. Here is where spark plug condition, quality, materials, construction and design make a difference. Spark plug temperature and cylinder compression also affect the amount of voltage required to jump the same gap. Add to this that your coil is also affected by things like input voltage, RPM, etc., and you end up with a fair degree of variables.
Manufacturer's will always err on the conservative side. They want your spark plug to fire reliably under the worst compilation of all these variables. So, typically, they design the system with more coil voltage than needed and less than ideal spark plug gap. If you are reasonably diligent in keeping your Spyder maintained. You can easily increase spark plug gap (assuming you are using a high quality spark plug), and reap the rewards. It's just an option for those who are interested.
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Originally Posted by BajaRon
Absolutely true.
Ideally, you want the widest gap that available voltage will jump. The wider the gap, the quicker and more fully the fuel charge is ignited and burned. This will give you maximum energy from the fuel charge. Of course, at some point the gap will exceed the voltage capabilities and you'll get no spark at all.
The amount of voltage required to jump a particular gap changes with conditions. Here is where spark plug condition, quality, materials, construction and design make a difference. Spark plug temperature and cylinder compression also affect the amount of voltage required to jump the same gap. Add to this that your coil is also affected by things like input voltage, RPM, etc., and you end up with a fair degree of variables.
Manufacturer's will always err on the conservative side. They want your spark plug to fire reliably under the worst compilation of all these variables. So, typically, they design the system with more coil voltage than needed and less than ideal spark plug gap. If you are reasonably diligent in keeping your Spyder maintained. You can easily increase spark plug gap (assuming you are using a high quality spark plug), and reap the rewards. It's just an option for those who are interested.
This is the 1st for me hearing that the NGK Iridium produces more power & torque & also a wider plug gap helps. I have zero experience with the Spyder spark plugs buts lots of experience with the Hayabusa NOS & Hayabusa turbo. The NGK is the best all around plug but I needed to gap closer than recommended--like .018 either way the plugs didn't last overly long but then again neither did the aluminum head valve seats. Different vehicle must have different needs.. cutting back a few degrees on max timing solved a lot of damage. I'm not a firm believer in the "seat of the pants" evaluation.
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Originally Posted by Wildrice
This is the 1st for me hearing that the NGK Iridium produces more power & torque & also a wider plug gap helps. I have zero experience with the Spyder spark plugs buts lots of experience with the Hayabusa NOS & Hayabusa turbo. The NGK is the best all around plug but I needed to gap closer than recommended--like .018 either way the plugs didn't last overly long but then again neither did the aluminum head valve seats. Different vehicle must have different needs.. cutting back a few degrees on max timing solved a lot of damage. I'm not a firm believer in the "seat of the pants" evaluation.
Things change drastically if you add a turbo, blower, NOS, increase compression, etc. Every specific application has its ideal spark plug gap. It's apples and oranges when compared to a basically stock Spyder.
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Originally Posted by Wildrice
This is the 1st for me hearing that the NGK Iridium produces more power & torque & also a wider plug gap helps. I have zero experience with the Spyder spark plugs buts lots of experience with the Hayabusa NOS & Hayabusa turbo. The NGK is the best all around plug but I needed to gap closer than recommended--like .018 either way the plugs didn't last overly long but then again neither did the aluminum head valve seats. Different vehicle must have different needs.. cutting back a few degrees on max timing solved a lot of damage. I'm not a firm believer in the "seat of the pants" evaluation.
All forced induction and NOS motors require a smaller gap. (and highly modified 2-stroke motors) Not because of amp draw or voltage requirements but do to the nature of forced induction the "forced" part will actually blow out the spark flame if the gap is to large. that's why we close up the spark gap to shield it, if you will, from the turbulence.
Naturally aspirated motors you want the largest gap you can have to make a more even burn.
I hope this explanation helps
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Originally Posted by QuadRAGIN
All forced induction and NOS motors require a smaller gap. (and highly modified 2-stroke motors) Not because of amp draw or voltage requirements but do to the nature of forced induction the "forced" part will actually blow out the spark flame if the gap is to large. that's why we close up the spark gap to shield it, if you will, from the turbulence.
Naturally aspirated motors you want the largest gap you can have to make a more even burn.
I hope this explanation helps
I would think the 2, 3 & 4 ground electrode plugs might help. The downside to them for a NA engine is that they shield the flame and retard propagation. Sounds like a bonus with modified engines.
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I'm wondering how the performance would increase if I were to run the iridium IX plugs on a Spyder F-3 with a stage 2 RE-MAP...that's what I'm going to do on my spark plug change...it should be interesting.
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The sounds very interesting! I just happened to have gotten my dynojet PV3 in the mail the other day and have ordered my stage 2 tune from MFI. I might just have to try these iridiums out before sending the files off for my tune....are you ok with me borrowing your idea???
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Originally Posted by Mista
The sounds very interesting! I just happened to have gotten my dynojet PV3 in the mail the other day and have ordered my stage 2 tune from MFI. I might just have to try these iridiums out before sending the files off for my tune....are you ok with me borrowing your idea???
Sure ..I'm hoping more people will try it
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Ron does your .38-.40 gap setting hold true for the 998 V-Twin?
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Originally Posted by pegasus1300
Ron does your .38-.40 gap setting hold true for the 998 V-Twin?
Yes it does.
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