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Active Member
2011 battery
I am having a problem verifying the proper battery for a 2011 RT Limited. I came up with Yasau YTX24HL-BS. Looking it up on various sites say it is possibly the wrong part number. I don't have that spyder here to compare the original battery. Appreciate anyone who can verify this.
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Very Active Member
With out the battery to compare it too, rather difficult. This should get ya:
https://www.batteriesplus.com/batter...finder-box-top
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Originally Posted by SpyderJerry
I am having a problem verifying the proper battery for a 2011 RT Limited. I came up with Yasau YTX24HL-BS. Looking it up on various sites say it is possibly the wrong part number. I don't have that spyder here to compare the original battery. Appreciate anyone who can verify this.
That’s the correct Yuasa part number for that Spyder. Other battery manufacturers may use a different numbering scheme, I suppose. That -BS suffix just means that the acid is bottle supplied. You activate that battery yourself. Directions are included. Why? What conflicts are you seeing?
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Active Member
battery
Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder
That’s the correct Yuasa part number for that Spyder. Other battery manufacturers may use a different numbering scheme, I suppose. That -BS suffix just means that the acid is bottle supplied. You activate that battery yourself. Directions are included. Why? What conflicts are you seeing?
My freind put that number in on Ebay and some batteries posts will say not for that application.
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Very Active Member
If you use a bottle supplied battery be sure you fully charge the battery on a slow (not a battery tender) charger.
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Paul
2012 RT L
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Originally Posted by pegasus1300
If you use a bottle supplied battery be sure you fully charge the battery on a slow (not a battery tender) charger.
Most any "battery tender" will work just fine......IF it has a total capacity of 2 amps or more.
Might take 48 hours but the end result will be fine.
P.S. You should give ANY new battery an initial manual charge and not trust whomever you bought it from to do that.
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Very Active Member
YTX24HL is the correct part number. NOT YTX24HL-BS.
The Spyder charging system will not properly charge a dry ship version. BRP specified the factory activated version only. They are readily available on Amazon and elsewhere. Also FYI, ALL Spyders use this same battery.
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Active Member
Originally Posted by jcthorne
YTX24HL is the correct part number. NOT YTX24HL-BS.
The Spyder charging system will not properly charge a dry ship version. BRP specified the factory activated version only. They are readily available on Amazon and elsewhere. Also FYI, ALL Spyders use this same battery.
thanks
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by SpyderJerry
thanks
I have this battery sitting in the workshop …. and the model # is YTX24HL -BS ….and it is the correct type for the Spyder, yes YOU have to add the acid ( which is provided ) and then do the INITIAL charge ( which is NOT rocket science difficult ) …. there are two reasons for fillin and charging it yourself …. # 1.- you KNOW it is done CORRECTLY ( sorry but I learned not to trust so-called PROFESSIONALS ) #2. it will be absolutely fresh ie. NEW, not something that may have been charged months ago...… The battery I have I bought last year and when my current Yuasa DIE's I will use my new one. …. No one can predict when a battery will DIE, I carry a Lithium Jumper pack …. when I need that Jumper to start my Spyder ( this month or this year or Next year, I will charge the New one …… JMHO ….. Mike
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I just put this in my RT
BATTERY.jpg
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Battery
All Good Tips. Just curious on what Battery you decided to go in the Spyder.
ENJOY YOUR LIFE WITH A SPYDER
Ryde with a Friend and be Safe
My Spyder ..... 'Little Blue-Boy'
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
The Spyder charging system will not properly charge a dry ship version.
IF......you follow the instructions that comes with the BS version and manually charge it with an external charger BEFORE you install it.......then it is electrically identical to the factory sealed one. It is a good idea to make sure a factory sealed one if fully charged too......because you don't know how long it has been sitting on the shelf.
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Jerry if you have the original battery from 2011 why in the world would you change brands? This is 2019. I had a DESS disaster earlier this year and in trying to discover the problem the shop replaced my Yuasa battery. I am pretty sure it was the original but I am the third owner of this machine. The battery was actually fine and I have it at home as a spare for my boat. Good luck Jerry!
Ride safe!
2018 Spyder RT Limited
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Easy Rider
IF......you follow the instructions that comes with the BS version and manually charge it with an external charger BEFORE you install it.......then it is electrically identical to the factory sealed one. It is a good idea to make sure a factory sealed one if fully charged too......because you don't know how long it has been sitting on the shelf.
I respectfully disagree. The factory activation procedure is considerably more involved than, fill the battery and put it on a charger until charged. Multi-step conditioning and charging. We have also seen very short life from the -BS version battery when installed in a Spyder. Yes, its because they were not correctly activated but very few folks do so or have the equipment to do so. Most dealers do not have the time or desire to do it correctly. The factory activated batteries have a date code on the box to know how long they have been stored. Its pretty easy to tell if you have one past its sell by date. Send it back as defective and buy from a more reputable dealer getting you a fresh battery not old stock.
Its not that the -BS dry ship battery cannot be made to work correctly, its just that its not particularly easy, nor is it routinely done correctly. The factory activated version also does not carry any significant cost premium. This is also the reason Odyssey does not sell a dry ship version.
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Very Active Member
2016 F3 Limited
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2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
I respectfully disagree.
The factory activation procedure is considerably more involved than, fill the battery and put it on a charger until charged.
You can disagee all you want but I would want to see some documentation about that factory procedure before I buy into it. I have serious doubts.
Do I get batteries "mail order" ? No, not unless what I need is not available locally.
But when I do that, I have absolutely NO concerns that what I end up with is not just as good in every respect.
References please.
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Boy, That is pretty pricey there. We buy that same original equipment Yuasa YTX24HL-BS made in USA Mfg#6250H for under $100.00 canada dollars.
. That same battery fits the snowmobiles etc. and identical that is in the Spyder.
Roger
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Very Active Member
A couple of years ago, I wanted a "factory activated" battery and bought it directly from the Yuasa corporate web site. Paid that premium for that. As it turns out, what they did was forward that purchase order to the nearest distributor to me, and they sent me a -BS battery. Of course I made that WTF phone call to them. After about 30 minutes, they had me convinced that a "factory activation" was nothing more than performing the exact procedure in the instructions that Yuasa sent out with that -BS battery. I could send it back and have them do the exact same thing to it if I wanted. But the shipping would cost even more to return it to me because it was now a filled and activated battery instead of an inert battery. So, after a little shopping around to purchase a modern battery charger with an AGM setting, the "factory activation" was performed by me using the factory activation instructions provided by the factory. And it was all good.
The point is that nobody here was ever suggesting that a person simply put acid in the battery and slap it right into a Spyder and expect the charging system to do this. And nobody was suggesting that a person put in the acid and just slap it on any old battery charger without following the proper procedure. That's agreed. The instructions are provided by the factory in order to perform a proper activation. If a person can read, has the correct charger, and can do basic math, they can do a correct activation.
It's incorrect to simply make the blanket statement that a -BS battery is the wrong one, or can't be properly activated at home. And after my experience with the whole thing, it's my personal opinion that this mythical "factory activation" is just that.
BTW Roger, that is one sweet looking machine.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Very Active Member
A fresh, factory activated battery is under $100. There is no cost premium for getting the correct battery. Why jump through all the hoops to use a battery BRP recommends against? I never said it could not be made to work. Just the opposite. But why bother. Just get the right one and done.
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
BRP specified the factory activated version only.
Originally Posted by jcthorne
Why jump through all the hoops to use a battery BRP recommends against?
Your logic is flawed.
Just because they failed to mention the -BS option does NOT mean that they are recommending "against" it.
And often shipping a battery with acid already IN IT can be a problem.
But I do agree with your conclusion. Just find a local bike dealer or battery shop that has the right one and trade in your old one for recycling.
Like a lot of other things, no need to make it harder than it IS.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Easy Rider
Your logic is flawed.
Just because they failed to mention the -BS option does NOT mean that they are recommending "against" it.
And often shipping a battery with acid already IN IT can be a problem.
But I do agree with your conclusion. Just find a local bike dealer or battery shop that has the right one and trade in your old one for recycling.
Like a lot of other things, no need to make it harder than it IS.
I think you are missing one piece of data. BRP Published a tech bulletin stating NOT to use the -BS version. Now granted, this was back during the 998 era which had a very different charging system, but they never changed the recommendation. We now stock the battery for our local customers and install them. All about making it easy. For the ones we sell, we take care of the recycling as well.
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
For the ones we sell, we take care of the recycling as well.
That's good......since it is a legal requirement for battery retailers......isn't it ??
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Originally Posted by SpyderJerry
I am having a problem verifying the proper battery for a 2011 RT Limited. I came up with Yasau YTX24HL-BS. Looking it up on various sites say it is possibly the wrong part number. I don't have that spyder here to compare the original battery. Appreciate anyone who can verify this.
Take the battery out and go to Batteries plus, Costco, Auto Zone, they all have the right battery for you
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder
A couple of years ago, I wanted a "factory activated" battery and bought it directly from the Yuasa corporate web site. Paid that premium for that. As it turns out, what they did was forward that purchase order to the nearest distributor to me, and they sent me a -BS battery. Of course I made that WTF phone call to them. After about 30 minutes, they had me convinced that a "factory activation" was nothing more than performing the exact procedure in the instructions that Yuasa sent out with that -BS battery. I could send it back and have them do the exact same thing to it if I wanted. But the shipping would cost even more to return it to me because it was now a filled and activated battery instead of an inert battery. So, after a little shopping around to purchase a modern battery charger with an AGM setting, the "factory activation" was performed by me using the factory activation instructions provided by the factory. And it was all good.
(What is the different in an "AGM Charger" and a regular one? If you use a regular one will it hurt an AGM battery? Will a 2013 RT Limited charging system be compatible with an AGM battery and work OK?)
The point is that nobody here was ever suggesting that a person simply put acid in the battery and slap it right into a Spyder and expect the charging system to do this. And nobody was suggesting that a person put in the acid and just slap it on any old battery charger without following the proper procedure. That's agreed. The instructions are provided by the factory in order to perform a proper activation. If a person can read, has the correct charger, and can do basic math, they can do a correct activation.
It's incorrect to simply make the blanket statement that a -BS battery is the wrong one, or can't be properly activated at home. And after my experience with the whole thing, it's my personal opinion that this mythical "factory activation" is just that.
BTW Roger, that is one sweet looking machine.
Is a AGM battery compatible with a 2013 RTL?? Looks like I got ccarried away>
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Originally Posted by wingit3611
Is a AGM battery compatible with a 2013 RTL?? Looks like I got ccarried away>
Yes.
And AGM batteries do not NEED any special treatment.
They were made as a drop-in replacement for wet-cell batteries and they do a fine job of that.
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