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Ryker Rally CVT Noise
I am hearing a loud knocking noise at partial throttle and deceleration. The noise is coming from the right front and will be the loudest at approx 15-30 mph. I believe it is coming from the CVT. There are videos of Can Am four wheelers having noisy CVTs. Anyone else hearing the noise? The bike runs great and has about 300 miles on it. Not sure if the noise goes away at speed or if I just can’t hear it anymore with all the wind/road noise.
Thanks in advance.
Nick
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Very Active Member
This occurred when we were leading the first demo rydes on the Ryker. BRP folks in attendance didn’t seem to think it was a problem. But it was annoying!
White 2013 Spyder RT Limited. BajaRon Swaybar, Custom Dynamic Third Brake Light. Ultimate Custom Black and White seat with driver and passenger back rest. Gloryder Led Wheel lights.Custom Dynamics Led Bright sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright sides.
2016 F3 Limited Intense Red Pearl. Lidlox, BRP Driver Back Rest, BRP Passenger Back Rest,Fog Lights, GPS, Signature Light! Custom Dynamics LED Bright Sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright Sides.
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Have it at the dealer now. Will follow up.
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Interesting....🤔
Need to get it checked to make sure. I would not think it should be constant at any speed much like the klunking of the spyder..... but then you have it at the shop so we will see what they say....
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
New machine. Thanks to the beta testers, we will all get the full picture in a few months.
PS: I was a beta tester for the 08 GS SM, 09 RS SE, 10 RTS, and 14 RT-S 1330. Been there, done that.
Last edited by ARtraveler; 02-14-2019 at 11:59 AM.
Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.
Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)
MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles
IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
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Well the dealer still has her. Said they found play in the bearing on the right front wheel. While looking noticed wires that had been rubbing on the left side wheel/fender. The wires had started to rub through. Apparently the CVT is good as or now. Will post updates as I get more info.
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Nick,
Your problem sounds different than what I have been voicing for a awhile. My sense is my Rally's drivetrain is more noisy/clunky than most other bikes. Anyone that has been around my bike asks, what is that? They are concerned there is something really wrong with it. It pops when going over bumps, clunks badly from standing stop, and has very annoying secondary popping sound under acceleration. Have no idea if I just live with it or what. Love the bike and that is the only downside in my mind. But, it is a very big downside. Seems like all the noise is from the driveshaft and final drive. Am I the only one?
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Very Active Member
Sorry, All my previous bikes have been BMW's. I am accustomed to weird noises.
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I have the drive line clunk as well from time to time. I would have sworn the noise I was hearing under acceleration band deceleration had to do with the CVT and clutches. We shall see when I get her back. Had no loss of performance just loud annoying knocking. It sounds like a rotational knocking but it varies and a random pattern.
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Very Active Member
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Any way of getting some video of the issue?
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Originally Posted by nchangin
Any way of getting some video of the issue?
I wish I had. At the dealer now. Will keep you posted with what I find out.
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I can tell you this, mine has the same driveline lash as a BRP ATV or side by side. It clunks a little when first accellerating or decerating. It is especially noteable from a stop
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I have the normal first take-off clunk and a smaller one on sudden deceleration but it's buttery smooth the rest of the time. (Rally version)
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Update on the Ryker Rally. The noise I was hearing was fixed. Replaced the front wheel bearings. Also found that the wiring for the turn signals was rubbing and wearing through. Dealer fixed that as well with zip ties. Apparently when turning the handle bars would pull the wiring free. My Ryker had just over 300 miles on it when I started hearing that rotational noise. Wish I had some video of it. You would know if yours is doing it. It's not a very sweet sounding noise. But she is running great now.
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After only 160 miles my Ryker 900 developed a delayed response to throttle input form a standing start followed by abrupt accel and loud driveline clunking. It is rare that it doesn't do this but there are times when it pulls away very smoothly. The dealer took the trans apart after contacting BRP and found what they thought might be the problem. On BRP's advice the dealer ordered and replaced several transmission parts. Again, after about 160 miles, the problem is back but now I notice another clunking sound which seems to be coming from a different area of the trans. As others have mentioned on these forums, the reverse to drive clunking is there and BRP told the dealer that is normal. However, it should not be normal for the clunking to appear almost 100% of the time while accelerating from a standing start, especially since it also delivers very abrupt acceleration. It hits so hard that it just can't be good for the driveline components. I am certainly concerned about premature driveline component wear/failure. I have now initiated a complaint with BRP and am supposed to hear back from them soon.
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Very Active Member
I have noticed on mine that I can feather the throttle up to the 1800 rpm point where the CVT clutch engages and there is no noise. However, if I just whack the throttle from idle there is a little engagement clunk. I have about 850 miles on my Rally now
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You guys need to learn how a belt drive CVT tranny coupled with a drive shaft works. You need to clearly understand what happens when the clutch engages and the accumulated clearances are taken up both when going forward and in engaging reverse. If you slam the throttle from a dead stop or when engaging reverse the clearances are suddenly taken up with an audible jolt.
Very similar to what is heard when riding a belt drive CVT equipped ATV or side by side like my Polaris Ranger 4 wheeler.
The post immediately above demonstrates the difference between slamming the throttle or gently opening the throttle.
Dean O
Gran Pa Hoon
Founder San Jose BMW
Builder of the Motorcyclist Cafe Barn and Bunkhouse
Alamogordo, NM
'20 Spyder F3 L
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I find if you feather the throttle in forward smooth most of the time. From reverse to forward loud clunk all the time. Normal who knows. Runs great though!
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Loud clunk into reverse. That's normal for the CVT of the snowmobiles.
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Originally Posted by nringle655
Update on the Ryker Rally. The noise I was hearing was fixed. Replaced the front wheel bearings. Also found that the wiring for the turn signals was rubbing and wearing through. Dealer fixed that as well with zip ties. Apparently when turning the handle bars would pull the wiring free. My Ryker had just over 300 miles on it when I started hearing that rotational noise. Wish I had some video of it. You would know if yours is doing it. It's not a very sweet sounding noise. But she is running great now.
Thanks to your comment/advice on YT, my dealer found the same issue on both fenders on my Rally when they were doing the sway bar install. My wire harnesses weren't damaged yet, but they agreed that it was a clearance/routing issue. They drilled a couple of holes in the underside plastics and zip-tied the harness to the fender to keep it away from the tire. I forwarded this information and pictures to BRP for review, along with my other laundry list of items from the conference call.
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QM
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Thanks for the comments, Old Timer. However, in my wife's Ryker case, the throttle is not being "slammed" in order to get the mentioned effect. Yes, it will happen under those circumstances but sometimes not. In fact, I/she can just roll the throttle gently on and get a motor rev but no forward motion then get the hard driveline hit (usually the case) and other times no delay and smooth as silk on take off. Also, it's getting worse with more miles. CVT's have been around for a long time, nothing new there. However, BRP's, or at least my wife's and it sounds like some others, are not operating properly. I'm an "Old Timer" too, having been involved in owning, racing and working on motorcycles since the late 60"s and, later, the same with cars. Both I, and the dealer tech and service manager know that in my wife's Ryker case something isn't right. I am certain that if you rode it you would feel the same. So, I am waiting for BRP to take another whack at it. I'll keep the forum informed.
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Originally Posted by pnvman
Thanks for the comments, Old Timer. However, in my wife's Ryker case, the throttle is not being "slammed" in order to get the mentioned effect. Yes, it will happen under those circumstances but sometimes not. In fact, I/she can just roll the throttle gently on and get a motor rev but no forward motion then get the hard driveline hit (usually the case) and other times no delay and smooth as silk on take off. Also, it's getting worse with more miles. CVT's have been around for a long time, nothing new there. However, BRP's, or at least my wife's and it sounds like some others, are not operating properly. I'm an "Old Timer" too, having been involved in owning, racing and working on motorcycles since the late 60"s and, later, the same with cars. Both I, and the dealer tech and service manager know that in my wife's Ryker case something isn't right. I am certain that if you rode it you would feel the same. So, I am waiting for BRP to take another whack at it. I'll keep the forum informed.
Sounds like you just might have an issue after all.
Dean O
Gran Pa Hoon
Founder San Jose BMW
Builder of the Motorcyclist Cafe Barn and Bunkhouse
Alamogordo, NM
'20 Spyder F3 L
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Very Active Member
Sounds to me that they have a clutch problem. Unfortunaly the owners that have one are going to do R&D for them, hopefully with help from the company! Good Luck guy's
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