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Originally Posted by UtahPete
Lew, doesn't the test light probe just indicate the presence of voltage? Not sure you can check for current with one of those. Maybe I'm not understanding your post.
You make an "open" in the circuit in question, either at the fuse of by disconnecting a wire, and then insert the test light in series.
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Originally Posted by Easy Rider
You make an "open" in the circuit in question, either at the fuse of by disconnecting a wire, and then insert the test light in series.
Yes, I realized later that is what he meant. Novel use of a test light. Thanks.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by nealperkins
Sorry for the delay. The battery is only 1 year old, maintained on the charger. But, it is a bit slow to turn over, even for a second crank when warm. I’ll have it checked but, I will just replace it if any weakness shows up...it is not worth getting stranded!
Thanks for all the good info!
Let us know how things turn out, so we can add to our understanding of these types of issues. Thanks
2014 RTL Platinum
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RT-S PE#0060
Originally Posted by Lew L
A test light will do the trick. Un-hook the negative side of the battery and put one side of the test light ( usually the one with the clip ) on it. Then touch the probe/lighted light end to the negative cable end. If the battery lights---- you have a leak somewhere. These test lights are very useful if you're looking for a hot wire ( ignition on or off ) on your car or spyder.
Lew L
you are right and if the test light lights up then start pulling fuses
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Active Member
Does any one know how many milli amp should be drawn when bike is turned off?
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Originally Posted by wingit3611
Does any one know how many milli amp should be drawn when bike is turned off?
I think pretty much zero. Maybe DESS draws a little, but every other load should be pretty much isolated from the charging circuit, I would think. I've had my bike sitting for 2 months or more without a battery maintainer hooked up and the battery was a little down but always has enough to start the bike.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by UtahPete
I think pretty much zero. Maybe DESS draws a little, but every other load should be pretty much isolated from the charging circuit, I would think. I've had my bike sitting for 2 months or more without a battery maintainer hooked up and the battery was a little down but always has enough to start the bike.
Actually, from what I see on the wiring diagram the DESS is fed from the ignition switch. The ECM, cluster, and radio get power full time but I've no idea how much.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Just a simple question for the electrical engineer's here:
Putting a VOM in series with the negative terminal of the battery and the neg. cable ( set on amps of course) should give a reading. Ignition off-- VOM on Milliamps.
Just want some input before I try it.
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Lew L
Just a simple question for the electrical engineer's here:
Putting a VOM in series with the negative terminal of the battery and the neg. cable ( set on amps of course) should give a reading. Ignition off-- VOM on Milliamps.
Just want some input before I try it.
Lew L
Just don't turn the ignition on or hit the starter. You'll most likely fry your VOM, or at least blow its fuse!! It'll be interesting to get an idea what the current draw is.0
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 02-09-2019 at 12:37 AM.
Reason: Quoting the correct post rather than the deleted duplicate. :-)
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by Lew L
Just a simple question for the electrical engineer's here:
Putting a VOM in series with the negative terminal of the battery and the neg. cable ( set on amps of course) should give a reading. Ignition off-- VOM on Milliamps.
Just want some input before I try it.
Lew L
I would test the circuit draw at the positive terminal, I think. Start at the highest amp range then work down from there.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by UtahPete
I would test the circuit draw at the positive terminal, I think. Start at the highest amp range then work down from there.
Either terminal will work equally well.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Spread some newspapers under the Spyder so you can see where the electricity is leaking.
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Member
I think if it's more than 3Ma you have a parasitic draw. I'm just going off the top of my head as a standard.
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Member
I just went through my manual. 10-20 mA draw is within normal. Sorry.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
Either terminal will work equally well.
I'm not trying to start a tire pressure/ tire size/ oil brand, ect. war here but:
Removing the negative side is a lot safer on a neg ground vehicle. If you testing with the positive side un done and touch any grounded metal with a load---- you may fry a meter set on milliamps. Always start with the highest ampere setting on the meter .
Lew L
Last edited by Lew L; 02-09-2019 at 11:38 AM.
Reason: speeling
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Member
definitely the negative!: shemademe_smilie:
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Originally Posted by Lew L
I'm not trying to start a tire pressure/ tire size/ oil brand, ect. war here but:
Removing the negative side is a lot safer on a neg ground vehicle. If you testing with the positive side un done and touch any grounded metal with a load---- you may fry a meter set on milliamps. Always start with the highest ampere setting on the meter Lew L
Lew, it doesn't matter to me which side of the circuit is used for this test.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Lew L
Removing the negative side is a lot safer on a neg ground vehicle.
I was thinking about that when I responded but I just wanted Pete to be aware that as far the flow of electricity goes it makes no difference which side is used.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by UtahPete
Lew, it doesn't matter to me which side of the circuit is used for this test.
Hi Pete,
Just looking out for your( and others )safety. I have an expensive VOM and I wouldn't want to fry it. When the + cable is removed first-- any touching of a conducting material will cause a direct short.
Hope your winter is treating you well. We are getting blasted now and another storm tomorrow, Oh boy.
Lew L
PS: Check out Bart in this thread. Is he close to you guys???
Last edited by Lew L; 02-09-2019 at 04:33 PM.
Reason: BART
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Originally Posted by Lew L
Hi Pete, Check out Bart in this thread. Is he close to you guys???
Kaysville is north of Salt Lake City. About 50 miles from Oakley. We're at our winter 'retreat' in southern Utah, where we are getting the cold but at least no snow.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
I was thinking about that when I responded but I just wanted Pete to be aware that as far the flow of electricity goes it makes no difference which side is used.
I did know that. I was just thinking that ammeters are usually wired in on the positive leg of a circuit. Thanks fellas!
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by UtahPete
I did know that. I was just thinking that ammeters are usually wired in on the positive leg of a circuit. Thanks fellas!
With US automotive wiring methods, in general you would want to do that if your measurement of interest is a specific electrical load, if the ammeter is wired in securely or permanently. The US standard is to switch the load on the positive or power side. With Japanese vehicles, and most of the circuits in the Spyder, the controls for power to a specific load are usually on the the negative or ground side of the load. In that case you might want to put the ammeter in the ground side as it usually is specific to that load and not shared with other loads.
I've never figured out why the Japanese like to switch the ground side and not the power side in vehicle and electronics wiring. You sure don't want to do that with house wiring and voltage!
In the case of the OP's question, we're looking at a very temporary situation so safety is the overriding consideration.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by UtahPete
I would test the circuit draw at the positive terminal, I think. Start at the highest amp range then work down from there.
Which terminal you use makes no difference......except that if you make a klutz move and short something out, the negative side is MUCH less likely to cause any damage.
And yes, you always should start with an AMPS range and work your way down.
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