-
belt tension
I lowered the belt tension on both my 2017 RT SM6 & F3-S SE6 some time ago from 240 lbs RT/ 225 lbs F3-S purchased new from dealer [ wheel on ground ] to approx 180lbs wog. Gear change on the RT went from very smooth to change, to a slight clunk changing from 2nd up & the same coming down to 1st. Gear change on the F3-S went from very smooth to change to clunky changing up & down. I then lowered both to 160lbs & changing gear on both got worse, more so the F3-S. With no alternative, I raised both belt tensions to 200lbs wog & the smooth shifting returned. Some drive belt whine also returned which had almost gone with the lower tensions, especially at 160lbs. Trade offs.
What i would like to know, has anyone else experienced this situation?
Also, has anyone running a belt tension of 200lbs or slightly higher with wog, & has clocked up some 15K + miles, had any problems with the output shaft bearing / drive belt / rear wheel bearings etc., caused & probably hard to prove by the "so called" high belt tension alone? Thanks, Treva.
-
My 14 RTS is set wog + or - 200 lbs. I use a krikit gage and I've installed Doc's belt tensioner. The tensioner exerts about 7 lbs. so that's nearly insignificant to the overall belt tension. I have no issues with bearings, clunking or shifting and I'm close to 30k with those settings.
-
Thanks 2dogs, that's reassuring.
-
I have a 2016 F3T with 16,000 miles at about 5,000 miles dropped the belt tension to 180 and installed the CamAn belt tensioner no vibration and no problems with anything.
-
Thanks for the reply warrensr. I actually purchased vibration dampers, 1 from RR, 1 from Can-Am, thinking I would need them. Both are still in the boxes they came in.
-
Very Active Member
2016 RTS ...set at 160 with the Krikit, on the ground....no issues at all
2021 RT Limited
-
Very Active Member
-
If it wasn't for the bad clunking changing up & down especially the F3-S, I would run both at 160lbs in a heartbeat. I'd rather have hopefully only [ don't want to think about the output drive shaft bearing ] the rear wheel bearings detonate instead of the gearbox running the 200lbs wog.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by treva
If it wasn't for the bad clunking changing up & down especially the F3-S, I would run both at 160lbs in a heartbeat. I'd rather have hopefully only [ don't want to think about the output drive shaft bearing ] the rear wheel bearings detonate instead of the gearbox running the 200lbs wog.
That clunking associated with shifting , IMHO has nothing to do with the belt tension setting you are using...… There have been a LOT of reports of the " dreaded red dust " at the crank shaft pulley ( do a search for that topic )…… If you have the Red Dust I think that is why the shifting is an issue ….. good luck ….. Mike
-
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
That clunking associated with shifting , IMHO has nothing to do with the belt tension setting you are using...… There have been a LOT of reports of the " dreaded red dust " at the crank shaft pulley ( do a search for that topic )…… If you have the Red Dust I think that is why the shifting is an issue ….. good luck ….. Mike
Thanks Mike, I actually removed the output shaft drive pully some time ago thinking the same thing. Absolutely no problems there. I'm getting a new rear wheel fitted early January [ out of round ] under warrantly. Maybe this will solve the problem. Anyway, Merry Christmas.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by treva
Thanks Mike, I actually removed the output shaft drive pully some time ago thinking the same thing. Absolutely no problems there. I'm getting a new rear wheel fitted early January [ out of round ] under warrantly. Maybe this will solve the problem. Anyway, Merry Christmas.
Glad you didn't find the RED DUST crap …… I'm surprised about the REAR wheel being " out of round ", this is not at all common being reported on Spyderlovers…….. because you are getting a " FREE WHEEL " I won't challenge your dealer on this, if you were Paying I'd want them to prove it ….. good luck with this vibes issue …. Merry Christmas ….. Mike
-
Very Active Member
Unfortunately, the dealers I have been dealing with are still using the original higher belt tension specs instead of following the Technical Service Tip issued by BRP in 2015. That TST dramatically lowered the belt tension for Spyders in order to reduce/eliminate belt vibration. Why BRP continues to list the higher tension and does not reference their own TST for lower tension is a mystery...... Good luck..... Jim
2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
2008 Honda GL1800/California Sidecar Trike, SOLD
2014 Platinum Silver Satin Spyder RTL, SOLD
Semper Fi
-
Originally Posted by canamjhb
Unfortunately, the dealers I have been dealing with are still using the original higher belt tension specs instead of following the Technical Service Tip issued by BRP in 2015. That TST dramatically lowered the belt tension for Spyders in order to reduce/eliminate belt vibration. Why BRP continues to list the higher tension and does not reference their own TST for lower tension is a mystery...... Good luck..... Jim
Thanks canamjhb, Yes it is a mystery. I spoke to the technician when the 1st service for RT was done, & asked him to set the belt tension to 800n wog [approx 180lbs on krikit ] & explained why. He said he would like to, but he had to follow the info supplied by BRP for obvious reasons. When i rode home from the dealer i could feel the stress on the complete drive system not to mention the weird noises coming from same. I Checked the belt when cold & the krikit could not read the tension wog so in excess of 320lb. That tension was immediately dropped to 180lb, & this is when the slight clunking when changing gear started.
The 1st service & a new rear wheel for the F3-S is booked in for early January. I won't be leaving the dealer until the tension is set to my satisfaction. I could be there for some time, but that's ok. This is going to be sorted one way or other. Merry Christmas.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by treva
Thanks canamjhb, Yes it is a mystery. I spoke to the technician when the 1st service for RT was done, & asked him to set the belt tension to 800n wog [approx 180lbs on krikit ] & explained why. He said he would like to, but he had to follow the info supplied by BRP for obvious reasons. When i rode home from the dealer i could feel the stress on the complete drive system not to mention the weird noises coming from same. I Checked the belt when cold & the krikit could not read the tension wog so in excess of 320lb. That tension was immediately dropped to 180lb, & this is when the slight clunking when changing gear started.
The 1st service & a new rear wheel for the F3-S is booked in for early January. I won't be leaving the dealer until the tension is set to my satisfaction. I could be there for some time, but that's ok. This is going to be sorted one way or other. Merry Christmas.
I can offer no explanation that is proven for the lower tension causing your bikes to clunk.
Possibly, as you mentioned it is now freed up the drivetrain somewhat. The free drivetrain and if you are not steady throttle or increasing throttle while shifting it can shift oddly.
As for the dealer set belt tension, entertain the idea that you could bring a copy of the most recent bulletin belt tensions to the dealer when the work is accomplished. Ask for lower tension and if they mention it is mandatory they follow the manual specs, ask why they are not following the most recent approved specs and present them with a copy of the bulletin. Once presented, ask them to research the absolute newest version and abide by the most current belt tension specs.
-
Thanks for the tip PMK, I'll be armed with as much paper work as i can find regarding belt tension bulletins. Merry Christmas.
-
Very Active Member
FYI That Technical Service Tip was issued by BRP 06/15 and is TST #61Y014S05. It is readily available online. Very little research needed. I think the more we get good information to our srvicing dealers, the better for our riding experience. For the life of me, I just don't understand why BRP is not loudly communicating this information to their dealers..... Jim
2005 Windveil Blue Premium Mustang Convertible
2008 Honda GL1800/California Sidecar Trike, SOLD
2014 Platinum Silver Satin Spyder RTL, SOLD
Semper Fi
-
Originally Posted by canamjhb
FYI That Technical Service Tip was issued by BRP 06/15 and is TST #61Y014S05. It is readily available online. Very little research needed. I think the more we get good information to our srvicing dealers, the better for our riding experience. For the life of me, I just don't understand why BRP is not loudly communicating this information to their dealers..... Jim
Thanks for the feed back. You are right, better info will not only satisfy riders, but also the techs. My new year resolution is to make sure my dealer/techs have received the latest TST'S.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by treva
Thanks for the feed back. You are right, better info will not only satisfy riders, but also the techs. My new year resolution is to make sure my dealer/techs have received the latest TST'S.
If they are a current authorized dealer, they have them. Probably working on flat rate pay scale, so not interested in reading bulletins that do not pay the bills.
-
Very Active Member
I took the bulletin to the dealer ,but i still had to lower to 180 when i got home. Never had a chance to give it a good try as winter set in .
-
Originally Posted by PMK
If they are a current authorized dealer, they have them. Probably working on flat rate pay scale, so not interested in reading bulletins that do not pay the bills.
Originally Posted by stmike 1800
I took the bulletin to the dealer ,but i still had to lower to 180 when i got home. Never had a chance to give it a good try as winter set in .
I can assure you I won't be leaving the dealership until I'm completely satisfied. Thanks for the replies.
-
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by treva
I can assure you I won't be leaving the dealership until I'm completely satisfied. Thanks for the replies.
You might find the dealer will follow the tension spec per the bulletin, but the chances they will use a tension spec you provide with wheels on the ground is very unlikely. Asa home mechanic, wheels on ground may be a method to try, but in a shop environment, the consistent dimension of having the wheel at full droop is a repeatable hardpoint.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by gnorthern
To be clear, do you still feel engine vibration? I assumed I would still feel engine vibration if I got a belt tensioner.
To be clear ( also ), yes I can feel the engine vibes......Mike
-
Originally Posted by PMK
You might find the dealer will follow the tension spec per the bulletin, but the chances they will use a tension spec you provide with wheels on the ground is very unlikely. Asa home mechanic, wheels on ground may be a method to try, but in a shop environment, the consistent dimension of having the wheel at full droop is a repeatable hardpoint.
Yes PMK, they may tension the belt with wheel off ground, but TST 61Y014S05 recommends belt tension of 300n +/- 100n. At 400n with wheel off the ground, I haven't tried measuring this with a krikit when wheel is on the ground, but i think the tension will be too low. I may have to use the TST supplied by Bruce B which states tension of 775 +/- 150n. Setting the tension with wheel off the ground at 625n may be around 800n [180lb ] with wheel on ground. We'll see.
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by treva
Yes PMK, they may tension the belt with wheel off ground, but TST 61Y014S05 recommends belt tension of 300n +/- 100n. At 400n with wheel off the ground, I haven't tried measuring this with a krikit when wheel is on the ground, but i think the tension will be too low. I may have to use the TST supplied by Bruce B which states tension of 775 +/- 150n. Setting the tension with wheel off the ground at 625n may be around 800n [180lb ] with wheel on ground. We'll see.
I do not have the belt tension specs per the bulletin on this computer. If it matters, on the 2014 RTS I set the belt tension to about 140 lbf, essentially the spec midpoint per the bulletin. This is wheel off ground tension.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|