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side panel bushing replacement
When I was taking off the right side panel on my wifes F3S the front bolt kept turning and turning. When I had removed the other three bolts and 3 pins I found that the brass bushing that the bolt screws into had been cross threaded when installed. I have in the past month had it into the shop to have an oil change and that is where I think it happened (we have owned it less than a month). I have called the shop and just sent them pictures along with informing them that who ever installed the other bolts did not put the washers on the bolts also.
Is this an easy fix to put a new brass bushing in or is there more involved?
Thank you
John
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Originally Posted by Revrent
When I was taking off the right side panel on my wifes F3S the front bolt kept turning and turning. When I had removed the other three bolts and 3 pins I found that the brass bushing that the bolt screws into had been cross threaded when installed. I have in the past month had it into the shop to have an oil change and that is where I think it happened (we have owned it less than a month). I have called the shop and just sent them pictures along with informing them that who ever installed the other bolts did not put the washers on the bolts also.
Is this an easy fix to put a new brass bushing in or is there more involved? Thank you John
Can you post a picture so it's a little more clear what you're referring to? Thanks.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
THREADS
Originally Posted by Revrent
When I was taking off the right side panel on my wifes F3S the front bolt kept turning and turning. When I had removed the other three bolts and 3 pins I found that the brass bushing that the bolt screws into had been cross threaded when installed. I have in the past month had it into the shop to have an oil change and that is where I think it happened (we have owned it less than a month). I have called the shop and just sent them pictures along with informing them that who ever installed the other bolts did not put the washers on the bolts also.
Is this an easy fix to put a new brass bushing in or is there more involved?
Thank you
John
IMHO , Fist I would try to just Re-Tap the threads with the same size thread cutter ....this should get the old threads back to where they will hold the bolt/screw ..... if that doesn't work go up one size ( metric ) .... Mike
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 05-30-2018 at 10:31 PM.
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Depends...
Not seeing it can say some are rubber press through with a brass thread center some are compressed like aircraft threaded rivets. if you got the screw out just re tap and you should be fine. If not you need to get to the back to hold it while unscrewing the bolt.
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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I believe those are part of the plastic. You may try a tap to restore the threads if not part will need to be replaced.
Good Luck
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Easy fix
I have had this happen twice. To fix all I did was coat the brass "nut" with epoxy and put it back into the plastic. You will have to use plyers to get it to seat correctly. Let it dry for 24 hours and you are good to go. Be sure you don't get any epoxy on the threads.
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Fixed one last week
If the brass threaded “nut” is still connected, clean up the threads and make sure the bolt is good. If it is the brass that spins, remove it, and the panel. Get the nut free of the bolt. Unbolt the plastic part the brass goes into. With clean threads, insert the brass from the backside. It is a bit of a wedge. Put the bolt with a washer thru the plastic, and use the bolt to draw the brass in. Heat helps. Once it is set, remove bolt, reassemble panel.
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Very Active Member
Like KickinBar said. once you get the machine screw out of the brass knurled bushing
You can epoxy it back in place and hope that you have a clean metric thread inside for the next time. I would chase the thread with one of the other machine screws 'til you're sure that its clear, then epoxy it in place. These screws are what Lamonster advises to start by hand to avoid crossthreading, and spin up by hand to just snug. I suspect some shops get a little ham-fisted with their electric drill/drivers and they are easy to mess up. Another reason to get familiar with your machine.... GOOD LUCK!!
07 Shadows, Aero, Spirit gone but not forgotten
03 Harley Sportster, 07 RK moved on
11 RT- 76,000 mi, 15 RT-S- 44,000 mi, traded for current 15 base RT and 16 F3T
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Spinning brass insert
Having this problem with my F3 s. First time to take right side panel off only to find the 2nd from the front panel screw is all jacked up from factory. Can't get to the nut with pliers to hold it. Any answers on how to get the screw out? Help!
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Originally Posted by BakaDean
Having this problem with my F3 s. First time to take right side panel off only to find the 2nd from the front panel screw is all jacked up from factory. Can't get to the nut with pliers to hold it. Any answers on how to get the screw out? Help!
Impact driver..
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Originally Posted by BakaDean
Having this problem with my F3 s. First time to take right side panel off only to find the 2nd from the front panel screw is all jacked up from factory. Can't get to the nut with pliers to hold it. Any answers on how to get the screw out? Help!
If you get the other fasteners off you should be able to pull the panel iff. Then you can use vise grips to hold the brass whike you get the screw out.
CAUTION. Do NOT use power tools on these screws or you will wind up needing to make the above repairs.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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