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Originally Posted by DGoebel
Supersuk, Excellent write up so far, for those of us substantially less mechanically inclined it is great following your adventure, please do keep the updates coming.
Looking forward to what your new creation will finally be. Curious, if you're pulling the rear swing arm, would you just clean and repaint it, or would you powdercoat it?
Agree with this. Mad respect from a guy that can barely tell a screwdriver from a wrench! No pride in that comment either!
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Very Active Member
....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....
ride like the one-eyed Jack of Diamonds, with
the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....
2008 GS.....PE # 2888
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Glad to keep ya'll entertained! If you guys want to see anything in particular, let me know and i'll get some pics. The swing arm went on last night. I should've installed the swing arm before installing the rider foot pegs. There are access holes in the foot pegs to get to the bolts and nuts, but it just would've been easier. The exhaust was a little difficult to install, but nothing a rubber mallet can't do! Just had to hammer the y-pipe onto the headers because it was so damn tight. Those goldwing exhaust gaskets should give me a nice seal. Its going to be a little while before I start to install more stuff because i'm waiting for the wheels to be powder coated.
2018-03-27 18.03.49.jpg
Last edited by supersuk; 03-28-2018 at 02:40 PM.
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I also forgot to mention that I did install the Baja Ron Spark Plug Wires. They were a little tricky to get into the coil. Nothing a little asian persuasion couldn't handle.
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Hi supersuk,
Re: If you guys want to see anything in particular, let me know and i'll get some pics.
I would like to see you relocate that rear jack stand. That is not the best place place for it. Move it slightly forward to where the frame of the swing arm is & you will be OK.
Jerry Baumchen
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Very Active Member
....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....
ride like the one-eyed Jack of Diamonds, with
the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....
2008 GS.....PE # 2888
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Awesome
Going great! Can you remove and blast that front pulley?
There are lots of RS GS body panels available. The body work and paint are tough, as the plastic is soft. Love the progress! LOL in Asian Persuasion!
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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JerryB - The jack stand is directly under the shock mounting point. Shouldn't be a problem there since there isn't much load. Can't be more than 150-200lbs of down force. There's no side load and i'm not worried about anything bending there due to down forces. If there was a large side load then i'd be worried, but since there can't be any side load (unless someone pushes it really hard), not concerned.
BigArm - I did get the part number that you referenced. The forum post that I was looking at said those were from a goldwing.
cptjam - I can remove it, but I don't want to because if I remove that bolt, i'll have to replace it. Not concerned about the surface rust because there is no pitting. I can easily just put on a coat of KBS rust seal to prevent any further corrosion. It sticks well to the surface rust because it gives the paint something to hold onto.
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Very Active Member
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DGoeBel - Right now its so clean, you can wipe your finger all around and not have any grease or oil on it. However, because its stored outside, there is some dust. Nothing an air compressor can't handle.
20160912_163705.jpg
Last night I rummaged through all the parts I had a tried to look for something to install. I found the rear seat handle assembly and installed it. This one is a new piece because the old one was all faded and scratched up. Just wouldn't have looked nice once everything was painted and/or cleaned up. Also put on the front skid pad and the belly pans right behind the radiator and oil cooler. I remember someone said that I didn't need to install the belly pans, but I figure since the factory put it there, then it was put there for a reason. Its been on for 30k miles, why not 70k more.
2018-03-29 07.56.32.jpg
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The plan this weekend was to get the spyder running. First task was to get the fuel pump into the fuel tank. What a hard thing to do! You have to devise a way to compress the fuel pump into the tank enough to put on the ring that holds the pump down. The fat oring that comes with the installation kit makes it extremely difficult. I ended up using a scissor jack placed between the fuel pump and my upper cabinets in the garage. Worked like a charm! Only thought of this after about an hour trying to push the fuel pump into the tank. Sorry no pictures of that setup, I was just to irritated to grab one. Main thing is that I got the pump in. I also installed the fuel tank into the spyder without any further problems.
2018-04-01 14.32.27.jpg
Next was to perform a canistorectomy. The previous owner started to do it, but didn't finish. I bought that metal fuel filter and 4 feet of 5/16" fuel hose. Finished it up in a lickitysplit.
2018-04-01 14.34.58.jpg
I found the fiberglass heat wrap that was hiding in one of my cabinets so I decided to wrap the header that runs along the left side of the spyder. I didn't have enough stainless steel tie straps, so I ordered some.
2018-04-01 14.32.36.jpg
I also took a closer picture of the pulley and the surface rust. I rubbed my finger over it and no red dust came off of it.
2018-04-01 14.32.56.jpg
Lastly, I installed a new seat cover. I really didn't like the diamond pattern upholstery so I took it off. The original vinyl under the upholstered cover was in decent shape, but I decided not to run it like that cause it wasn't up to my standards. Here is the new cover installed. Just need some time for the wrinkles to go away.
2018-04-01 14.33.22.jpg
I also picked up the wheel from powder coat on Friday afternoon. I had to send back two of the wheels because they missed the inside corners, which were pretty visible. I should've taken pictures of it, but forgot. You can see a picture of the good rim in the first picture of this post.
On Sunday morning, my goal was accomplished. I filled the fuel tank with about 1.5 gallons of gas and started her up. On the first crank she fired up and came to life! No misfire, temps were good, everything seemed to work fine. Then a check engine light came on. I'll have to pull up that code to see what it is. The spyder did however run very nice. Very smooth and responsive. I think I forgot to tighten the O2 sensor, so I hope that wasn't the reason why the check engine light came on. The brake failure message came on, but that was to be expected since I didn't have any brake fluid in the system at the time of startup. Still waiting for the caliper rebuild that i'll be doing soon. Turns out, the calipers are the same as the rear caliper on a riot or revolt ATV. However, I think it only replaces the right caliper since they use one caliper in the back.
Last edited by supersuk; 04-02-2018 at 02:03 PM.
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Customer Support
Really enjoying the updates, thanks Supersuk!
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Very Active Member
New to Sue and I
2021, LTD, Asphalt Gray, 22,000 miles
Gone but not forgotten
RTS 2011 SM5, 95,000 miles
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Very Active Member
....and we're gonna ride, we're gonna ride.....
ride like the one-eyed Jack of Diamonds, with
the devil close behind,.....we're gonna ride....
2008 GS.....PE # 2888
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Very Active Member
Good stuff S/S. You need to retorque that drive pulley bolt as it has no X marked on it, which was supposed to be done as the result of a service bulletin to explain pulley/shaft failure due to insufficient torque applied at factory. Do it to 110ftlb and it'll be good to go forever (unlike the F3).
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
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Freddy - Thanks for the information! I'll be doing that once I get the spyder back on the ground.
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It'll be so clean & pristine you won't want to go out in the rain. Great job. ( although I'm not too enamoured of the risers)
2008 GS SM5, Full Moon Silver
2007 Piaggio MP3 - 250cc
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Very Active Member
Not sure if it's been mentioned but check out threads for 'oil catch can' for the airbox, where oil eventually accumulates then leaks over the engine making a mess. There are a couple of solutions.
The best substitute for brains & knowledge is....................silence.
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Oldgoat - Those risers came with the bike. The previous owner cut up the OEM handle bars to install those so there was no way for me to reverse the add-on without spending money to buy new handle bars. BOOOOOO
Freddy - I did read a bunch of threads on that issue. I'm waiting for some 11mm hose to come in so that I can install my oil filtration device that was recommended by one of the threads. Not sure if you can see in the pictures, but i'm missing the hose that goes from the valve cover to the airbox. I disconnected it to try and install the device, but the hose I had was the wrong size. No one in Hawaii has the 11mm hose in stock so I had to order it from ebay.
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I started disassembly of the brake calipers and found the seals and the pistons to be in great shape! No scratches or rust on the piston and the seals look brand new. I gotta say that the front calipers sucked to disassemble. The pistons were a pain in the ass to get out, especially on the side where the yellow plugs are at. You need a special tool to remove those yellow anodized plugs to get to the piston themselves. Luckily I was able to remove all pistons with some creativity.
Got my small blast cabinet setup and blasted the brake calipers. They cleaned up real nice with the garnet media. Now I just have to paint them, which i'll be doing either tonight or the weekend. Once these are on, i'll be able to bleed the brakes and do a test run.
Bought this blast cabinet cheap on Amazon with free shipping to Hawaii! Made a wooden stand/shelf with leftover wood in an afternoon and started blasting the next day.
2018-04-10 18.31.15.jpg
Brake calipers all masked up and ready to be blasted. Don't worry, I plugged up the bleed screw and brake hose holes before blasting.
2018-04-10 18.25.20.jpg
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Sweet!
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Sorry I haven't updated in a while, but have been frustrated with bleeding the brake system. So far, I still have a very soft pedal that goes almost all the way to its limit. The last inch or so of stroke has a very firm pedal. Next thing i'm going to try is pressure bleeding the brakes. Hopefully this forces out any air in the system. Going to build the contraption as shown in this link:
http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...eder/index.htm
Its a good thing I have extra brake master cylinder reservoir caps that I can use for this build.
I'll grab pics of the calipers as finished and me bleeding them. Hopefully it works!
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A vacuum pump bleeder can make bleeding the brakes easier. Also if you have air in the abs module, you will need to have it hooked to a computer with BUDS on it to bleed that system.
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Finally got the brakes bled, have a nice firm pedal, and got rid of the "Brake Failure" message, all without using buds. I tried using a vacuum bleeder, but that didn't work out so well. I used the pressure bleeder setup that I made from the link I previously posted and it worked great! In order to fully bleed the front calipers, you really have to take the calipers off and move them up on the disc so that the bleeder is at the very highest point. Even with the pressure bleeder, I couldn't get a firm pedal until I did this.
I test rode the spyder, finally, and it stops great from 20mph. I didn't want to take it out on the street yet since there's a cop that is always pulling over people speeding on the main drag. After i'm done with painting and registering the trike, i'll go faster and try to activate the abs. Then i'll bleed it one more time to see if any air comes out.
I'm also almost ready to shoot some primer on all the panels that will be getting color paint. I'd say i'm about a month or so from being complete with the build. Getting there!
When you make this cap, make sure you use some epoxy to create a nice seal inside the cap. There is a breather channel inside the cap that must be filled with the epoxy. I used the rubber seal that is in the cap and cut out the middle so that the brake fluid can flow. You can see it in the second picture.
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2018-04-28 10.25.58.jpg
2018-04-28 10.26.26.jpg
This picture shows how I elevated the brake fluid reservoir to remove the slight kink in the lines going to the master cylinder.
2018-04-28 15.54.08.jpg
This one shows the caliper moved further up on the brake disc so that the bleed screw is at the highest point of the caliper.
2018-04-28 15.53.48.jpg
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