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SpyderLovers Founder
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Where exactly is the temp sender located for the added-on digital temp gauge? Is it measuring the coolant temp as it exits the engine?
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I already shelled out the big bucks.
Oh well, I'll just have a super cool
2020 RT Ride Frequent Stay Safe
Aftermarket Aux Light, GPS mounting/wiring, Lamonster Garage Mirror Lock, Lamonster Garage Belt Tensioner
Backrest Home Brew Mod
2008 RS from 2008 through 4/2015, 2015 F3-S from 4/2015 through 9/2020
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by GaryTheBadger
Where exactly is the temp sender located for the added-on digital temp gauge? Is it measuring the coolant temp as it exits the engine?
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by Jim Alpha
Awesome meter set-up!
Thanks. I got both gages with a sending unit for under a $100 bucks from Summit Racing
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Thanks as always for your comments, this makes me feel much better as I was recently concerned about running at 5 bars and its nice to know what the actual temp is.
I guess I should have gone ahead and put in a 'real' guage like yours (it's a great clean set up), as come to think of it all my other prior bikes came with the right stuff from the factory. Thanks again.
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Along this line has anyone installed a marine bilge blower?I see they are 12v. and big cfm for like $25.Glad to know the temps aren't menacingly high but I want the heat off the feet.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by wolfshead1
Along this line has anyone installed a marine bilge blower?I see they are 12v. and big cfm for like $25.Glad to know the temps aren't menacingly high but I want the heat off the feet.
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...0&postcount=71
Ran it for a while but I'm not sure how much good it did.
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Thanks Bro I thought too much debate over water temp. I've checked mine with infrared gun and read what your pic shows. I think Spal may be a waste. Nice pics and info
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by jedd
Thanks Bro I thought too much debate over water temp. I've checked mine with infrared gun and read what your pic shows. I think Spal may be a waste. Nice pics and info
I shot mine with the temp gun at the top of the radiator and at the bottom of the radiator and it's within 2 degrees of each other. Ideally I would have the sensor at the top where the water comes into the radiator from the motor but sitting still like it is there is very little if any cooling effect until the fan comes on. The temp readings would still be the same moving or not as the bars are in relation to water temps.
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
I shot mine with the temp gun at the top of the radiator and at the bottom of the radiator and it's within 2 degrees of each other. Ideally I would have the sensor at the top where the water comes into the radiator from the motor but sitting still like it is there is very little if any cooling effect until the fan comes on. The temp readings would still be the same moving or not as the bars are in relation to water temps.
The laser temp guns are really cool...I got one and hit the pipe before it connects with the hindle...curious how hot it got...it read in the mid 600s one time just after a long ride...I have copper silicone on there (temp. rating 800 degrees) so it looks like all is fine...haven't seen any of it drip off...
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Anyone know how hot it has to get before hitting "limp mode"
I have heard of a few Spyders going into limp mode sitting in traffic on hot days. What temp or how many bars are showing
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SpyderLovers Sponsor
Lamont, how long did it take to go through the temp increases in your pics?
Nice gauges, is that your 3rd or 4th set? I like these the best.
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by BajaRon
Lamont, how long did it take to go through the temp increases in your pics?
Nice gauges, is that your 3rd or 4th set? I like these the best.
I don't know, was I suppose to time it?
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
Thanks. I got both gages with a sending unit for under a $100 bucks from Summit Racing
Stupid question but are they water proof
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Lamonster,
Didn't your original analog temp guage show higher readings (10 - 15 degrees per bar) than the new digital one?
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by tatt2r
Stupid question but are they water proof
Not at all Bro. None of the gauges I've had on there are considered "waterproof" but they all did fine in the rain. These may or may not be alright but I could seal them up pretty easy if I needed to.
Originally Posted by BRPjunkie
Lamonster,
Didn't your original analog temp guage show higher readings (10 - 15 degrees per bar) than the new digital one?
This temp gauge will read 1 degree at a time.
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Originally Posted by Lamonster
Not at all Bro. None of the gauges I've had on there are considered "waterproof" but they all did fine in the rain. These may or may not be alright but I could seal them up pretty easy if I needed to.
This temp gauge will read 1 degree at a time.
I realize that, but I recall a photo of your original analog guage reading about 210 at five bars and the new one is showing 197.
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Active Member
can anyone tell me what this fault code is?
my husband just checked my bike's temp. mine ran the same about 179 at 4 bars, 164 at 3 bars, anyway my husband installed a manual switch for me to turn on the fan at 4 bars instead of waiting until the 5 bars. (because mine went into limp mode too quick while in traffic saturday went from 4 to 8 bars in no time) but now my check engine light won't go off! it is showing a fault code of 0 P0480. does anyone have the fault codes and could you look this up for me? i saw someone post on here a week or two ago saying he could check the codes. do you think this has anything to do with the manual switch being installed or a new issue altogether?
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As per the shop manual an error code of P0480 is as follows:
Involved Module: ECM
Description: Radiator fan relay shorted to battery +
Cause: damaged fan, relay, damaged circuit wires, damaged connector or damaged ECM output pins
Service Action: Disconnect radiator fan. measure voltage between harness connector 1-FB-C10 and ground (Expected value: 0 volts). Measure resistance between terminals 85 and 86 on relay (Expected value: 70 to 90 ohms)
Since I believe I was one of the first few to install a manual override switch http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=12160 I would suggest that the wiring of your override switch has in all liklihood caused the problem. Just how did the manual override switch actually get wired in ??
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Active Member
oops!
he wired it straight to the fan plug at the bottom of the radiator fan. the relay and circuit was not even in the system and thats probably what triggered it...the relay was not plugged in. he had to put the relay back in to clear the check engine light. thanks for being so quick on explaining the code! you guys are so helpful i really do appreciate all of you techies!
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I assume that the removal of the fan relay and failure to reinstall it was just an oversight. I would not ever suggest leaving the relay unplugged not for the very fact that the computer will complain but also I would not want to ever rely solely on me to turn the fan on with the switch. I am too busy enjoying the ride to have to continually monitor the temperature, the relay is a fail safe to the override switch.
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